Ford’s Cargo Area Enclosure with Fixed Lid - installation / review - Bronco / Bronco Raptor 

Awesome! Thank you kindly for the feedback!

Thanks for checking out the channel and all the helpful tips for installation and silencing! I have found the fixed lid version to be essentially rattle-free so far.

@@jeffiovine4577 👍. All of the rattles I found came from the side panel mounting ponts (metal to metal, or the front panel. Other than that (and the cost), it's great for securing items out of sight.

@@retnav92 it’s the “game changer” for me keeping the roof fully off normally. Without the enclosure, It would be hard to use the vehicle as a daily, on those multiple-errand days. I don’t want to worry about stuff being stolen from the cargo area.

Thank you very much for the remarks, and the subscription! Greatly valued!

Thanks! It’s a really solid piece of gear. I’m definitely happy with it. Thanks for stopping by the channel!

Very happy with it! Tnx for checking out the channel!

Correct. You have to remove the lid, which I can do in a few minutes. And that works out fine, because if the top is on, I don’t need the lid on the cargo box, and it allows items to stand up in back if I need height. I ran a piece of stick-on door weather seal along the edge where lid rests inside the side walls. So I can unbolt the 5 bolts, and the lid wont move/slide down sidewall. This makes it easy to remove and reinstall - just set the lid on the “rail” I made with that sealing, and then screw in the 5 bolts. I can do in a couple of minutes. I may make an video to show the simple $10 mod (cost of the weather stripping)

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bwYNkl3Gpfw.html

Yes. If the key is not near the vehicle (appears to be greater than 15 to 20 feet when I test it), the “unlock” buttons do not work in the vehicle when you reach inside and try - and when unlock pushed, will give a notice on the instrument display “SWITCHES INHIBITED - SECURITY MODE”. If you pull the door handles to open, the door will unlock and open (safety requirement so you can’t lock someone in vehicle)- but in about 5-10 seconds the alarm system goes off. You get an immediate security WARNING on the instrument cluster at the moment of door handle activation, but the car gives you about 5-10 seconds to disable the alarm with Fob or key. The alarm cannot be silenced without the key fob or key unlocking. When I leave my doors on (roof fully removed), I still roll up the windows. I am 6’2” and I cannot reach the door handle by reaching over the open roof, if I stand on the running board. So certainly, leave windows up as an other great deterrent. But yes, interior unlock button disabled when locked, and using interior door handle trips alarm.

@@jeffiovine4577 that is great to know, thank you! This will work great then.

@@matnheth you’re welcome! And many thanks for checking out the channel (and getting me to test out and learn something new - My neighbors are like, “is something wrong over there Jeff?”, LOL)

Yes 👍🏻 the jack and tire iron storage fit inside the tiedown point locations 👍🏻

Thanks for the remark! I wish I had thought to measure the sound with a meter before install. I don’t know a percent, but I can tell (with the rear seats up) is sounds less bassy. You can still hear it, and feel base, but certainly diminished. I does sound pretty much the same if I leave the back seats folded down, so it is just the molle panel between you and the rear. for me it is worth the functionality even with seat up and sound reduced. I found it hard to run errands with zero storage. the enclosure does not rattle as a result of the sub, that I notice. The enclosure is really solid and doesn’t seem to have any rattles at all. Well-built.

@@jeffiovine4577 thanks so much. I’m leaning to same conclusion, but have been wondering about sound. Just replaced faux amp and sub and finally happy with sound…didn’t want to go back to square one. Doesn’t sound like I would.

@@schkibz I don’t think you would, as normally the seats are blocking sound very effectively and the sound comes from over the seats out of the cargo area. So with the seats down, I would think your are getting at least the same levels, since it gets to travel more directly into the forward part of passenger. And during cold seasons, you could always just keep the lid of the cargo compartment, since you have a roof to give storage protection. Or just normally run with the rear seat folded forward. I just love being able to toss groceries, or things I buy back there, and be out for the day, with no concerns of theft. The Bronco was FUN with the roof off, but not very practical. Now it is both.

@@jeffiovine4577 yes, and an option to further fill sound would be SSV pods, if enclosure diminishes too much. Thanks!

You could definitely keep the rear cross piece out as it is the last part to attach (other than the top). And you could still use the four bolts (2 per sidewall) to secure the side walls to the top. That would hold the top very securely in place, and I think would also eliminate any chance of rattling. This would, of course give access to the storage area by pulling the seats forward if you didn’t have your doors on. But it would definitely provide a strong deterrent visually to seeing what is in the cargo compartment for anyone walking by the vehicle, if it was totally nude. And if your doors were installed, and the entire roof is off, it would also be pretty effective, since it would be hard to access behind the seats with the doors installed and locked.

@jeffiovine4577 appreciate the reply! Yeah, you'd be comprising safety by not using that piece. It just feels like such a big inconvenience to not be able to have the full space when needed. Depends on your use case, if youre not regularly dropping the seats then the back piece makes sense.

@@bluezklewz8351 if you keep your doors on normally, (a lot of people do, because of kids or a spouse that doesn’t like the door off) - then it would be pretty effective with the seat-wall off, since you really can’t access seats with doors on and locked - especially if the windows are up.

It works, but it also serves as a major structural brace. On mine, the side panels are prone to rattle and not hold fully flush against the actual interior trim panels, and removing the elements that help push them flush just exacerbates rattling. I do think I'm going to change how I do the bolts for the back panel; I'll probably reverse the direction of the lower bolts so the carriage head is in the cargo area. That'll make install/ removal much easier, and the top bolts installed normally will still provide some security should someone gain access through the second row.

@@etmccaus I came up with a solution to make it much easier to remove and replace the top using weatherstripping as a “resting ledge” for the top panel. And I made a change to the hardware for the single bolt on the cross panel. I plan on editing, and posting a video with the information.

Agreed. Fortunately the black was easy to match with Rustoleum , and no one would ever notice. But it should be packed better so that the customers aren’t having to do touch up on their brand new product. 👍🏻