Ford 300 4.9L EFI Simplification 

Here in Texas, I'm emissions exempt because of age, even though I'm in an emissions controlled county (Tarrant). It's nice having fuel injection and no emissions. Just a safety only test for $7.

I live in Washington State and the area where I live doesn't have emission testing. besides the truck is too old to require emission testing.

​@@HarryRenner-h9qdon't remove the EGR tube if it's not broken. The exhaust will run to hot and cook a starter every winter.

Everything I removed was FoMoCo's "last hurrah" at keeping the old inline platform emissions compliant. They only had Mass Air Flow capable 300s for ONE YEAR (1996). They couldn't meet fleet averages and the Essex 3.8 V6 was much better on fuel and "strong enough" for the base engine package.

I have the 96 4.9 with 5 speed. Removed exhaust from y pipe back installed 3” stainless with series 70 Flowmaster cats removed, O2 sensors reinstalled. 3:31 ring n pinion. She pulls a 5000 lb camper trailer perfect at 11-13 mpg. Daily driving is 17-23 mpg. So I don’t understand what your saying. She’s perfect. 290,000 original miles !

Exactly right. I have a 1990 Ford F150 4.9 liter. I had to change the head gasket so I had the head rebuilt and found ot was so much easier to work on 70 models which I drove until 2015. I would rather have a carburetor and not a serpentine belt and the fuel pump being in the gas tank, which I have to change one of them. (2 gas tanks). I wish mine was at least an 80s model.

Glad to hear it! Find the Ford 240/300 Performance page on Facebook and join the collective of information! It has over 35k members.

Only thing that makes sense to me is the charcoal canister purge solenoid. That's the only connector in the middle of the lower intake on my truck.

@@Kamwi_003 I thank you for your response! A few hours after I left that msg, I came across a Ford part # tag around the pigtail wire of that sensor.. I googled that number. Turns out it’s a temp sensor for gas rail that was intended to activate an electric fan, if that area reached above a certain point. That truck has a regular clutch fan; explains why that was never plugged into anything

Full tag info states: FORD E7TE-AA 9F818…. That first portion refers to engine type/size; 2nd part refers to that specific sensor

That said though, I still haven’t isolated the exact problem yet, for why its EFI isn’t working. I’ll be back on that one soon to go down the line with checking each system, sensor &, actuator individually

@@seanbatiz6620 that's a very rare option! It does help a lot but my truck never had that. Be sure you don't have codes and if your codes are erratic, there's a good chance the capacitors in the ECU have failed and leaked. Mine did that. Bought a replacement from Rock Auto and send my old as a core.

I'm currently running on just the front tank right now. Rear isn't even installed. One of these days I will get to it.

My 92 was developing some intermittent fuel problems and the fuel pump in the front tank finally went out. The rear tank had a small leak so my son replaced the rear tank and pump. So now I am driving around with a full front tank but only use the back tank. I will siphon the front tank one of these days. But the switch has never been a problem.

I relocated the stock intake sensor from the number 1 intake runner to the intake air box. It uses a tapered pipe thread so I used a flush stainless pipe plug in the intake to plug the hole. Yes, same 10 ohm 1/4 watt resistors for any of the solenoids.

Thank you! I forgot I also put header wrap on my EFI exhaust manifolds, and secured it with stainless steel marine hose clamps. This also helped with heat soak and under hood temps.

Sounds like a vacuum leak to me. Double check anything on the intake manifold, manifold bolts, gaskets, or anything on the vacuum tea or the vacuum ports right at the throttle body itself. You have a minor vacuum leak somewhere. It will only cause issues down low, causing a rich fuel condition. It will not cause any problems up top.

@@Kamwi_003 yeah I’ve been looking, spraying intake and hoses with carb cleaner to see if it bogs or idle jumps up. But nothing so far. I’m running a remflex intake/exhaust gasket. Replaced bolts with studs on the head and made sure i torqued everything down to spec during that project. The popping is just at idle once warm and a bit rough if u hold the Rpms at 2k.

@@StudioELW405did you ever happen to find the fix for this? My truck is currently doing the exact same thing but I’m thinking about relocating the intake temp sensor like this guy did. I’d rather not cut my wires but if it helps I will.

Plan is to replace the TFI with a MSD 6A for now, long term wasted spark using a 2.3 pinto cam sync (it will fit but needs 300 cam gear) with either a EDIS-6 coil or LS coils wired with 3 outputs in parallel.

And thank you

​@@Kamwi_003 hey man I got a 1996 f150 same engine just recently did EGR delete pollution delete smog all that now it'll start and die like it can't breathe or something truck never really ran good I've replaced everything idk what to do now I have alot of money in it

@@ALMIGHTYGARAGE there's a metric ton of things it could be. Especially being a MAF truck. The good news is you have OBD2 diagnostics. Check for codes. Regardless, unhook the MAF and the MAP sensor. See if the truck will start and idle. If it will, then you likely have an issue with one of those two components. The MAP doesn't fail often but it does happen. Do NOT buy a cheap one, get a real Motorcraft if you replace it. Trust me. MAF sensors don't fail often either but they do get dirty or contaminated. Clean it carefully out of the truck with alcohol. Don't break the fine wires inside it.

@@Kamwi_003 I just got a new icm today getting a new ecm I think it's that bc never had a cel no codes can't b much more I've replaced everything

That's correct. It will command more timing automatically. The 1995.5-1996 trucks that are MAF have this from the factory.

Ever seen a stock one? There's so much useless shit it's insane. Makes the engine a total pain in the ass to work on. This ain't the most beautiful thing but it's damn sure easier to work on now.

@Kamwi_003 yeah I own two of em. Been thinking of doing the smog removal on the 302 since it's also a pig. I thought it was funny because my 302 is missing the same inner fender. I know you said you had yours off for a reason. Mine doesn't have a reason it just came like that. But the video was good and informative. I was overthinking the placement for all the wiring when I was done. Seeing how you did it made sense.

It's a pipe thread. I think it was a 1/2 npt

I put electric fans and got 1.5 MPG better on my 94’ 4.9 (15.4 MPG)

Sure thing man. I'm easy to find on Facebook and I moderate a large 300 page on FB as well.

I have the same question

I highly doubt there's any difference with the mustang IAC, I just happen to have had one on hand when mine failed. As far as the IAT, I had to make a hole for it. I used a step bit and a piece of a brass bushing to act as a nut for the other side.

@@Kamwi_003 man i'm still having a hell of a time sorting out some kinks here... so i've done just about everything you did a few weeks ago and something just ain't right. it's been hard starting especially when warmed up, which i thought might be my in line fuel pump not priming right. replaced that, and i will admit the new one sounds stronger, but didn't really fix the issue. it idles rough, and if i'm parked in neutral and open the throttle its got a pretty noticeable squeal, almost like i've got a vacuum leak, but i've sprayed brake kleen on anywhere i could have a vacuum leak and i don't notice a change in idle. i'm also throwing a code for lean condition which is odd cuz i have the mustang injectors so if anything i'd think it would be running rich. you seem like you really got yours dialed in so any suggestions you might have would be super appreciated. i've swapped almost every damn sensor i can think of.

sorry probably more info and diagnosing than you bargained for by posting helpful videos. wanted to add, i'm also having an issue where my crank gets really weak after i've been running the truck. like, right away, even though i have a solid 13V at the battery. not sure if thats a starter issue or what, but the whole not seeming to get enough gas after running is a bad combination with a mysterious weak crank. i've been spraying the intake with ether to get it to start if its warm. once it's been running for a bit the rough idle seems to improve, but i do feel like it doesn't quite have the guts that it did when it was stock. my exhaust sounds very farty (i have a Y pipe going into a glass pack, then stock tailpipe), but prior to doing this, the cat went into the same glass pack and a just a short straight pipe and it didn't have the fartiness... it also pops quite a bit on decel. the only reason i made the changes is it started to run like shit and misfire, so i pulled the injectors and they were totally gunked up, cracked, etc. figured while i was doing injectors i'd put in the 19#, trash the cat, egr, smog, etc. anyways, not trying to turn you into my mechanic here, but since you seem to be real familiar with your I6 i figured it'd be worth a shot to see if you've had any ideas. i've been fiddling with the damn thing for weeks.

@@alexkruser256 It took a long time for the ECU to adjust to the 19s for me and had similar issues. Lots of exhaust fire on decel and even a few fireballs. Reference one of my cold start videos and you will see I have a side pipe on the passenger side and I have seen huge fireballs out in the country at night, and even some massive flashes on the highway after doing a hard pull on some asshat on the road. Hard to start when hot could be a lot of things, be sure you have all the heat isolation you can get on both the starter itself and the lower intake manifold. Do the IAT relocation, and confirm your ignition timing is correct. With 19s I'd also change to AutoLite AR32 Spark plugs and set base timing (WITH SPOUT REMOVED) to 15 degrees. Be sure you use the correct timing tab! You want the stamped steel tab, NOT the cast aluminum front cover marks!

@@alexkruser256 Also I'd advise you check your connections for your primary positive and ground. Mine were lacking a little and I went whole hog and wired in new 1/0 AWG wires. I ran my positive to the fender solenoid and did a home run from the fender solenoid to the starter. I have FULL TIME power AT the starter, where from the factory you do not, it goes through the fender solenoid. I am only using my fender solenoid as a slave solenoid for the starter's onboard solenoid. Ergo, that means there is a smaller, probably 12 or 10 awg wire coming off the SWITCHED side of my fender solenoid.

Long gone. The cat housing makes a wonderful 2 into 1 with a 3 inch outlet. Running a Gibson MWA muffler.

@@Kamwi_003 Got it! I'm doing same thing on an 87. Thanks

1/2 watt 10 ohm resistors for all the TAB/TAD solenoids that are mounted on the valve cover.

That's a factory hose for the EFI trucks. A breather would be fine too but I didn't want any oil stains or anything. A catch can is also a good suggestion.

No, I had to cut the hole. I used a forsner bit, but a step bit would work fine. I made a nut to secure it from a bronze bushing that was the same pipe thread and just cut it short, but in hindsight as long as you don't cut the hole too big this is not necessary. I enjoy these trucks and they are starting to gain value, but it's only worth it if you do it yourself. It would be a money pit if you took it to an independent and had them do everything.

10 ohm 1/2 watt I believe

@@Kamwi_003 alright, any check lights?

@@Project-gr6zy only light I have is rich condition from the 19 lb injectors. No TAB/TAD/Canister purge lights

@@Kamwi_003 alright sounds good

Absolutely worth it, especially when comparing them with new trucks. 2023 Chevy Colorado starting MSRP is $29,200 for a small truck! If it hasn't been driven in awhile, expect a few parts failures. My 96 300 was only driven a few thousand miles in the last decade. It still runs great, but components like the distributor and fuel pumps have gone out since I started daily driving it. Now that I am getting caught back up on a decade of neglected maintenance I think its going to be reliable in the future.

I'm wondering the same.

A stainless pipe plug.

​@@Kamwi_003ey bro you removed also the air pump located in the intake side with all those unusual hoses?

@@masautomx2131 the AIR injection rail? Yes. That's on the exhaust side but yes. I also removed the smog pump and plugged the exhaust where it was pumping air into the cat. I also no longer have a cat. The AIR rail holes are 9/16 Fine thread. They are NOT A PIPE thread.

You can unplug the check engine light. If you have OBD or OBD II, you can still pull codes

Moving the air temp sensor would help, but 18 might be too much timing unless you already have cold spark plugs. I have my coolant temp sensor intact. I only resistor modded the Thermactor, EGR solenoid, and canister purge. My advice would be to install Autolite AR32 plugs and go from there. The factory knock sensor is pretty sensitive and on my cam I couldn't run that much timing. The Melling MTF-6 has a rapidly closing intake valve and that increases the dynamic compression.

@@Kamwi_003 I initially did the "sixlitre" tune and did the 14° initial timing both while stock cam and cam swap. Decided to time it by ear while holding throttle to 2500rpm with spout connected. Turned timing up till ran freest, past a bit till it started running rough then backed it off till it ran smooth and gave it a tad less timing off of that to play it safe. Pulled spout to check what I got for initial and it was 18°. I'd doesn't bump the starter and doesn't seem to ping. My 87 doesn't have the purge solenoid. As for thermactor and egr plugins, all have been unplugged. I don't have the light in dash but can run codes off the obd1 port. Also when I tried the orange top 19lb injectors it started so nice, especially when hot, and had nice power, though nothing over the top as for the amount of gas it was using on a road trip. Saved the injectors and went back with correct size. It pulls decent when cold in "open loop" but not so much when in "closed loop". Got 14.7 mpg out of it with wind at my back driving like a granny. Engine is impressive in 1st very impressive in 2nd but 3rd falls a little, though still pulls ok.

@@Kamwi_003 I've also got my knock sensor intact, but have heard from a ford mechanic to take it out of block and tie it up at firewall in foam or something and keep it hooked up. Haven't gone that far as to try it yet. I don't think mine really bothers much

My master cylinder goes to a large fitting on the bottom side of the upper intake manifold.

IAC valve Check vacume lines I'm a noob though so that's a shot in the dark

@@iBizZle2New IAC, no change, removed the vac canister under the battery, slight change, was rusted, still quits when put in gear, can hear the entire top end rattle under acceleration when attempting to make it run in gear, if you own one of these pieces or garbage pull every piece of the EFI setup, including the distributor, swap it over to a carburetor, because you will never make the EFI crap work, will always have an issue, out of time, too much fuel, not enough fuel etc!. There has been enough money spent to get this fixed, could have bought a built ready to run 300+ HP V8, Ford ruined the longest lasting engine they made, good work, quality is job 1.

Cast iron camgear

Only mustang part I'm using is the injectors and the IAC but that's only because I had the IAC. There's no benefit to using a mustang IAC. Any mustang or 302/5.0 EFI with orange top injectors. Some early 2000s explorers and 150s with the 302 or early modulator motor use the orange top injectors too.

Cam "stages" are bullshit but if I was to guess I'd call it a Stage 1.5/2

@@Kamwi_003 are you also running a stock ecu or mega squirt for tune?

@@jlgibson1983 in this video I was using a stock ECU. I am now running a mega squirt instead, and the truck came alive. There was a lot left on the table with that combination with the stock ECU. It ran and drove, and was reliable, but there was a ton of power left on the table and a ton of fuel mileage as well.

Never had an issue running hot. Cold if anything with the big injectors.

​@@Kamwi_003do you happen to remember what part number is the air temp sensor your using and where did you get the erg Terminator plug

Autozone

All over RockAuto or any of the auto stores. Even the later Motorcraft ones are plastic.

Running strong. I recently parked it for an even larger set of injectors and a new RemFlex gasket but she's doing great. Much better now with the MegaSquirt swap and proper custom tuning.

1/2 watt, 10 ohm. Belt varies depending on how you route it. I believe it's 92 the way I have it. There's several forum posts about it, some have part numbers or belt interchange numbers.

@@Kamwi_003 thanks. I am considering doing a delete on my 91.

Not even slightly

Idles great, no problems other than the fuel mileage, which is partially my fault. Truck is being converted to MicroSquirt now.

@@Kamwi_003 ah ok thanks I’ve took my smog pump off and the pipe that runs from that car to the engine off but I’ve been wanting to fully delete it because I think all my egr bs is making my truck run crappy it sputters idling and In in 1st 2nd and 3rd it sputters if you slowly go on the gas then it’ll rock the truck violently lol it’s bad

@@OBS_95_FORD_F150 could also be a bad tps. Live data is the only way to confirm.

I did and they are 9/16 Fine thread. Some people have used pipe plugs but it's a straight thread, not a tapered thread.

Charcoal canister purge valve.

Are all the resistors you used in this video 10 ohm 1/4 watt?

innotronix.net/FORD-TRUCK-BRONCO-EGR-ELIMINATOR-EGR-DELETE-F150-F250-1986-1995-86-95-p290940499

innotronix.net/FORD-TRUCK-BRONCO-EGR-ELIMINATOR-EGR-DELETE-F150-F250-1986-1995-86-95-p290940499

@@Kamwi_003 I appreciate it boss, been having some issues trying to find it.

@@calebpeters5188 I had a mustang one for a while. It worked but would still trigger EGR codes sometimes.

Hey Tim did you ever get a link for that egr plug in?

@@capeable74 no I never did

Still hooked up