Excellent vid. Thanks man. I've been having the same issue on my 93 F350. I checked and the check valve is shot. Will grab one tomorrow and hopefully get it back to good.
I have same issue customer vehicle is a 2000 Ford E350 Extended Wagon and My issue is the opposite the master failed and dumped the brake fluid in booster so replaced booster and master pedal is still hard I have replaced 4 brake boosters no matter what the pedal is hard as a rock which is normally a booster issue customer is super understand but don't make the frustration any easier being that it's a tight fit to get the booster out without removing the master.. and on top of that the first booster I installed found our after the fact it was the wrong part number lol its driving me mad lol😂
I have a question. Ok you covered a lot. In your opinion what fixed it? Or what step did the most good ? Check valve? Adjusting push rod ? I'd guess check valve.
@@JaboTheMechanic yes I figured the check valve to be the main problem. Other guys are talking about the rear anti loc (abs).This also needs bled. All data lists the bleeding pattern. Some guys are bypassing this generic antiloc sys. Thanks for the reply.
I have a 99 ford f350 7.3 dually replace hydroboost due to soft brakes ,but still had the problem replace power steering pump problem solve, but now again having soft light vibration when i brake. i also bleed the fluid
2022 F250 7.3 Gas, Less than 1k miles and brakes feel spongy and go to the floor. Dealer cannot find anything wrong with the brakes. My 2020 f250's brakes are "stiff" and brakes on a dime. Difference is night and day. I'm looking for a solution.
Did they pressure bleed the brakes? Air in the system can do that if there is enough. I put my calipers on the wrong side once, and with the bleeder valve at the bottom instead of at the top of calipers, so much air wouldn’t bleed out that I had those same issues. It does sound like either the master cylinder, calipers, or the ABS module. A check valve somewhere is not operating properly is the most probable. See if you can trace down all the check valves in the system. You could check each wheel by jacking them up and having a second person either push the pedal or check each wheel to see if any of the calipers don’t work right. Push the pedal and try turning each wheel at the first instant the pedal is depressed. Have the wheel being turned already before you push on the pedal.I only go there because the stealership couldn’t diagnose it.
for these kind of problem you need to discard any parts of the system, im plenty happy for all the descripcion cause he save me time doing the same analisis, with old vehicles its worth it do it an full check and replece elemental parts, different pov i guess, now as person who cares his vehicle im gonna do my part, doing an inspection
First statement "pedal goes down to the brake"....I'm done, next video. Sorry, I cannot stand a video that is supposed to instruct me and the first statement is completely meaningless. I won't spend my time constantly trying to figure out what someone means by a bunch of gibberish. Here let me teach you something. Pedals do not go down to a brake. Maybe if you tried to pay attention to the meaning of your statements, it would help.
@@Blk4pointsix4v you obviously have nothing to say with your twitty one liners. I type ten fingers, takes less than 30 seconds to type out a paragraph like that. Only simple minded people communicate in one liners about something as complex as a super duty braking system. That is why poor communication skills are so useless with technical matters. Try watching Fordtechmakuloco or TooManyToys. They aren’t too simple minded to know how to speak.
