Just to avoid confusion: you swapped toe and heel. Toe is in inside (closest to the axle center line) and Heel is outside. The final drive pattern is too much on the heel, it will roll off at the heel under load. Thanks for uploading.
I believe in you! Haha ummm i dont rememeber greasing it, but that bearing does sit in the diff fluid, so i think its good without it. Ive put seveal thousand miles at over 800whp and it's completely silent even with solid diff bushings.
I am rebuilding 8.8 irs from T-bird and it is for 28 spline axles. Do i need to replace anything else than lsd unit for 31 spline version so i can fit 31 spline axles ? Are the bearings etc same dimensions for 28 and 31 spline versions ?
It's been a little bit since I did this so forgive me if I'm wrong.. if you're referring to the one on the end (has small needle bearings) that the stub goes into then yes, im pretty sure you can replace it without having to take the whole dang thing apart
It's out of an old Thunderbird, like 1995-ish. They are cast iron so they are smaller in outside dimemsions versus say a 03-04 cobra, or exlorer rear end
This shop wanted to charge me $1200 just to press on a couple bearings and finish assembly. I dropped my 2012 Chevy Caprice differential off at this shop, not only was it out of the car and going to be picked up for me to put back in myself, I also already had it taken apart, new ring already in, race’s all removed, etc, so what the hell am I paying $1200 for. Needless to say I went and picked it up, then the guy tells me, “well I’ve already gotten into it quite a bit” his idea of getting into it quite a bit was pressing on two bearing and cleaning it. So he charges me $400 for the work he did, which like I said was pressing on two bearings cause I already cleaned it pretty well. And to add insult to injury, the Motive Gear master kit that I paid an extra $300 for, was missing the pinion bolt, gasket sealer, and a couple spacer’s. Yeah! Who says there aren’t good honest mechanics nowadays!👍
Uggh I hate to hear it man. People were quoting me like $600 and that's more than I wanted to pay and honeslty I feel like if I paid it they wouldn't do it right anyways haha. You end up doing it yourself?
@@shaunlucky-samaroo688 I dont. I mounted the diff and then measured and gave that to DSS. I could sell you a new set at a good price if you were interested, they are very expensive though, like $1600 or so unless pricing has chanced since i bought them
I forget what year, but it's the old thunderbird coupe. I found it on car-part.com and had it shipped to me. Took like a month to find one in a junkyard. Otherwise people often times want too much money for them
@@tonykickerkomp1653 Hey I just looked it up and I bet you can get some right now for about $250 shipped. Okay, looks like the iron are from 89-97'. Got to car-part.com, then select "1990 Ford Thunderbird", then select "Carrier", then you can either choose ABS or non-ABS - I'm not sure that it matters which one. Looks like either option gives you maybe 10-20 to choose from for about $200 plus shipping. Sometimes you can wait and someone will list one for like $100.
By the way I would follow Streetcar Shenanigans Dan Schmidts cobra is done with that cast iron diff and has Mark Williams main caps that is a little more heavy duty and Dan Also has the Eaton Tru Trac. The only thing not done is torque box reinforcement.
