Ford dual fuel tanks... EXPLAINED and where to buy parts! 

Check the description for links to replace the valves

Fun fact you can get new ones that is special ordered through carquest/advance auto parts but the cost of the valve itself is $200 to $300, so I just took it apart and sprayed WD-40 untill the valve selector moved up and down freely

Your video is the third one I've watched where there's no mention of the filter that is in the bottom of the housing , inside the round part. Mine (filter) clogged way back in the day & no one knew of that damned filter . I was stranded in a mechanic shop for 2 days in Victorville Ca. (a long way from home) and at closing time on the 2nd day, the owners dad shows up & asks if we changed the filter in the dual tank selector . The bottom screwed off just like an oil filter , with the big help of an oil filter wrench ,and it was TIGHT. Filter was so clogged , it weighed like a solid hockey puck .

Rock auto standard motor products part number FV5K universal fuel tank selector valve, works great, have it on my 89 f150 5.0 now... Dont pay $200 to $300 for the original that is no longer produced. Also dont waste time cleaning it, I did that and in 6 months the same problems started again.

FYI, my 88 Ranger has the exact same canister/valve, except that it's set up for single tank. So you can add the 80's ford rangers for a single tank valve along with the bronco.

I got the same problem wit a old Chevy

“They have no idea” and the current part for my truck actually does not fit and must be adapted. I’m going to try the by pass idea. Great video

You can just take it apart and clean the selector valve inside.

Auto parts stores don’t have a clue? Been doing parts most my life sold tons of them behind the counter at Ford dealerships and now, Oreillys. Saved many a person having to drop their fuel tank too. I was starting to like you 🤣 Just joking. Carry on.

I pulled mine out and did the bypass put in a fuel filter. And its running fine better than before.

they do have some metal connecting tubes made by doorman that eliminates the selector valve i got mine at autozone for about $10 also you may have to go another route and use a selector valve and all new fuel injection hose . the selector valve is like the one used on a 1985 chevy truck with dual tanks, there are videos on you tube about it , hope this helps yall like it did me with my 1988 f250

That "reservoir" is a fuel filter

The bottom of the fuel selector screws off and there is a filter inside but if you do unscrew it they don't make a new O ring for it, i got lucky and found an O ring kit at advance auto that worked. They make a replacement for it but it doesn't come with the filter for it, it a small thing that looks like a fuel pump.

50th subscribed and a heck of a lot to appreciate for the video thank you again!

Thank you so much, the auto part store, like you said, had no idea what part it was. They even looked under the truck and could not find the serial number to figure it out.

You can buy selector valves from Napa.

Thank you so much for your video, it helped me alot on my truck to troubleshoot my problem👍

Sup brad, I have the same issue you had where gas is overflowing the front tank. I did some research and found that there’s check valves in the fuel pump that allow rear gas to the front when they go bad, so will replacing this selector valve solve the issue ? Or is it the check valves in the fuel pump ? I just really don’t wanna drop my tank lol that’d be a pain in the ass, thanks

You guys need some schooling, forget the fancy electric switch garbage just swap it out for a brass 3 way valve installed in the floor right beside the seat, problem solved, just because some ford bean counter thinks everyone needs a switch to change tanks doesn't mean you need to stick with that crap.

Thanks for this info. It may been about a f-150 it was also the best info on the e-150.

Is this also in the 83s with the mechanical fuel pump on the block?

WoW I learned something today my 95 does this

What about for a ‘90? I’m having the same problem

Dorman makes bypass tubes for these that you can connect to each end of the fuel line and completely eliminate the reservoir. Having the reservoir is not a necessity.

Nice video. I was hoping for a bit more detail. So when you hit the selector switch on the dash that must turn on the pump on in the tank. The valve it self must have a check valve inside that keeps fuel from going where you don't want it??

Bottom canister has a filter. It unscrews change filter inside.

Now so for these things, on my 93 I got rid of it for the plumbing aspect. For the electrical aspect I just took it & im gonna just have it underneath just for the fuel level in each tank. My valve in my truck was getting stuck where the front tank would get stuck 1/2 way suck in air starving the engine of fuel. I will have a video on how to do it on my channel MikeJD60.

Super helpful, thanks

I got a new fuel pump sending unit and it still won’t read the level of gas

GREAT info about the Bronco option, heck I'm removing my factory fuel injection going with a carb & then using a Holley RED frame mount fuek pump, tired of all these electronic crap

💪💪💪💪Thank you brother.

Thank you sir for this video. Good information and just what i needed to know.

How to switch between tanks?

1991 doesn’t have this?

This might be a really dumb question but is there anything special about switching tanks? Like can I do it as I'm driving or does the engine need to be off etc?

So is there any way to bypass it? i have a 88 bronco that the Reservoir is leaking and i cant get my lines to seal...

I need the back brakes

is that a diesel truck?? because i have an 84 f 150 xlt extended cab long bed, and my fuel tank selector looks way smaller than that ,,also when i bought the truck a few months back,,it had no middle tank. only a rear tank ,,someone took out the middle tank and bypassed the fuel tank selector all together,,well i bought a bran new side tank and want to hook it back up but not sure how it goes..with the selector

The part reference you give for keeping the dual tanks shows a selector valve for diesel fords. Is the vehicle you are working on a diesel or gas engine?

thanks!

Is video is only useful for 86-91 Ford Trucks with a diaphragm. The earlier 80-82 use a 3 port valve and the 83-85 6 port valve electric solenoid valve. We’re out of luck in any case, the replacements for earlier 80-85 trucks only have barbed fittings and the later 87-96 replacement is barbed fitting as well. Nobody has a new or remain diaphragm tank selector and the rest of us have to convert barbed fittings to even use the replacement part available to us. The only place that has the correct tank selector valves for period correct OBS Ford Trucks is “LMC Truck.com” and even those have barbed fittings. Don’t use the garbage tank selector valves from parts store chains like AutoZone or O’Reillys auto parts, they are cheap garbage that are all the same part either sold under the house brand name or just reboxed sold as OEM. None of which have the correct push on with o-ring seal and plastic locks like ford used, all replacement tank selector valves for OBS Trucks have barbed fittings.

Great video sir! It’s refreshing to find someone willing to take the time to explain step by step. Thanks again. This helped me tremendously! People Helping People! Good stuff

Thank you

I've got an 89 Ford Bronco. Fuel seems only to leak from the bottom when the vehicle is on. Think a bad pump could be my issue as well?

How do you test it? My '89 F350 diesel does not read the properly at the gauge. Also, I think my rear fuel pump may be bad as it seems to run out of fuel on occasion even when I know it's full. The front tank has acted up like that, too. Seems to run out when I know has has a few gallons in it. So, are my sending units bad (gauges not reading)? Is my rear fuel pump going bad? How do I to test for all these things?

My 94 f250 diesel, front tank will pull fuel from rear tank. At times it acts like it starving for fuel. Fuel filter light will come on and there are times it will die.

I've got a 90' Ford. Just converted into a wrecker. Had to remove the rear tank. Now the front reads full constantly.. Not sure what happened.. Any suggestions?

Great video

The fuel selector value on my 89 F150 is like goopy at the bottom. Almost like pancake sytup.. Also after the truck engine gets hot, it begins to stall out like getting no fuel. I plan on replace the value with a new one I found on Amazon along with replacing the fuel filter and the fuel pressure value next to the fuel injector rack. Does this sound like a good approach? Thanks.

About the gas tank, I just bought an OBS Ford F250 1991 and it's missing the front tank. Since I'm shopping for the front tank I might as well increase the size of the rear tank. I don't have much money right now so if you would send me a link to were you purchased yours and how difficult is the install? Please and thank you

I just got a 1995 ford f-super duty with the 7.3L and my tanks seem like it draws from both tanks together if i run the rear tank but, if i run the front tank it only pulls from that tank. Not sure whats going on is that a thing or maybe someone done something to make it work like that?

Maybe you can help... I have a 1991 E150 that I am about to be running a decently higher performance engine in.. its a 5.0 EFI) I was somewhat ignorant to these fuel systems.. so I assumed I needed two higher pressure in tank fuel pumps... as it turns out there are 3 fuel pumps? So the only in tank pumps I could find do flow at 150 lph but @ 7 psi.. like for a carb.. so I assumed I needed more pressure for EFI... I have new tanks.. sending units.. and these two pumps that fit perfectly with the units.. the question is... does the high pressure pump after this valve take care of everything else? Like are the in tank pumps only supposed to be at a low pressure before the valve? Maybe its this way because of all of the changes going on.. like carb to EFI... thank you so much for any help.

my 1990 ford Econoline E-350 van has this same selector valve and the problem with it, is once the fuel pressure gets to a certain psi it sprays the fuel back into the return line somehow straight back to the tank. is this possible? its so simple to hook up i know that is right. low fuel pressure at the fuel rail and gas pouring back to the tank. also, i replaced the pressure regulator to get that out of the equation. anything helps here. I may just buy a single selector valve as it it half the price of a dual tank valve and just run on one tank. when i blow compressed air through the in line on the selector i can feel air coming out of the return line to the tank. must be leaking somehow, van sat for 12 years.....

I have a 95 and only the rear tank works, the front tank doesn’t overflow, when you switch to the front (broken) tank and turn the key on you can hear the fuel pump try to prime the engine but it does sound different, lower pitched, than the back (working) tank. Does anyone know what the problem could be.

super helpful, thanks for posting.

I have a single tank and this is removed due to the rear tank leaking. Why would the single tank not work if the "bronco" one was not substituted? I'm losing fuel pressure after few minutes of driving in a truck I purchased last week.

Mine is totally un hooked and bypassed I want to hook it up again but need to buy new lines where do I buy lines

1980 camper.. can i just bypass. has a mechanical pump on the engine..

Can you disassemble clean and rebuild this unit?

same thing on 1992 .dealer did not repair it ,lied about it and damaged the bed .Tallahassee ford .

Thank you

I have a 1990 Ford F150 that dumps all of my fuel from my rear tank to my front tank. My rear tank & pump are brand new, front tank & pump are old, & do not work. I've searched hi & lo for a fuel tank selector valve, but I promise, I don't see one anywhere, period. I was told there has to be one somewhere.. But for the life of me, there is not one on my truck. Could it be that I have a faulty fuel tank switch? Would that switch cause my rear tank to dump all of my fuel into the front tank? I've put my old fuel pump check valve on the new pump. If the switch isn't the issue, or there is a fuel tank selector valve hidden in one of those hard to find places, then what could be the issue? Is there a fuel tank switch relay? If so, would you happen to know where these things are located.. I'm really stuck.. I put $50.00 in my rear tank, went 5 miles, came back almost empty. Please help, this is a heavy concern.. Thanks in advance..

I am having the same problem on my 92 F250

I think this is what happened to me because I just replaced my rear tank and pump because it was fucked with rust and the pump wasn't pumping well ,buuuuut my front tank was puking fuel so I think imma just bypass it for now

Thanks for the video and looking at the old

Yes I like this information I'll be in touch

Would this cause the fuel pumps not to prime?

the second link appears to be incorrect

i got a 81 f100 4.9l does this truck have two tanks like yours or only one? i have no tank by the back tires but i do have a big empty space there that looks like there should be one.the only tank i do got is what looks like 22.5gal auxiliary tank running along the driverside frame.

FOR some reason on my 83 f250, the new valve selector ports are in the opposite direction???? What's up with that??? How should I run it now???

Does the bottom of it come apart?

I have a 1989 f250 and having a fuel problem. I can't hear my pumps turn on I changed the fuel regulator fuel pump. Does that mean my pumps are bad inside the tank or could it be the selector valve? Thank you

My brother removed my front fuel tank pump plug on the top of my 1991 Ford F150, and replaced it. My back tank always worked fine, and the truck idled fine. Now when I have to turn the key forward while in neutral, I put a screwdriver between the solinode it starts and stops. So I keep using the screwdriver trick, and it sputs and sputters running for 10 minutes or so, then stalls. The exhaust muffler even turned red, until I cut it off. Do you have any ideas I should try?

Does that have a electric plug on it? Bought a 87 250 and it doeSnt have the selector on it...

WHEN GO TO MY BACK TANK THE TRUCK GOES DEAD IT HAS A NEW FUEL PUMP. WHAT DO U THANK IT COULD BE.THANKS ROLAND

They can get the new part

Thank you

well? Now I know , what problem is an what needs to be done. But you didn't mention the price of a new one. If in deed I find one Thanks! thumbs up

whatever tank Im using it pumps gas into the other tank. Ford should have redesigned these.

I have a 94 ford f150 the 4.9 v6 and i only have a single tank is there a way you could add a secondary tank or did they only make that for the v8's?

PLEASE HELP!! I need to put a filter in my selector valve to keep it running ASAP!! It’s the same exact part as in this video!! Please help!!

Why is there a return? What gets returned if the gas goes to the engine what's left to return?

THANK YOU!! This helps A LOT! The symptoms I'm having with my '89 F350 7.5 liter strongly suggest this thing is the culprit. I live 80 miles from town. One day I was leaving town with both tanks just filled. I switched from the rear tank to the front tank and it took about a block for the truck to die due to fuel starvation. Switching back to the rear tank allowed the engine to start immediately - no doubt after the reservoir re-filled. I got clear home without a hitch. Part of the trip is on a somewhat bumpy gravel road. Next day I started the truck on the rear tank, and switched to the front one while it was running, expecting the engine to die. It did not. I made at least 2 more round trips (160 miles each) to town WITHOUT switching the tank selector either trip; refilling the front tank before leaving town both times. The truck ran strong - as it must to climb the 2200 foot elevation gain back home without a whimper. I then ran it back to town and on toward Albuquerque - a total of about another 130 miles - still without changing tanks and it ran strong the whole time. I then switched to the rear tank, and then after about another 100 miles of operation I refilled both tanks. I then switched to the front tank and kaboom - it croaked in about a block or two. Going back to the rear tank again "solved" my problem, but now I'm having difficulty getting it to run on the front tank. I do hear the in-tank pump run when I turn on the ignition switch, but it dies shortly starting. I'm suspecting this fuel valve may be sticking, and that the first time I had the problem, maybe the jarring roads loosened it enough to allow the valve to switch that "one more time" letting me to run that 450 miles on the front tank again after my original problem.

What year bronco would I need to search for to eliminate one tank?

I kept having problems with that manual valve. Swapped it over to the electric valve from a diesel. Worked great. Kept going through tank pumps. Got the fittings and made gravity feed to external pump. Works like a charm.

Great video. Mine is going the other way, front leaking into back. Hopefully I can locate it at a wrecker about $200 new. Have you any experience changing the valve to a Universal switch tank valve??

Awesome video. Extremely informative, Thanks!

Fudge. The ford. Im selling it..

So the way this works is that when you switch to either pump it makes the switch on pressure ?

Hi, is this selector the same as for diesel or can you dothe same chanfes if it was diesel?

Do you know who carries that part brand new ? Thank for the video it helped a lot..