I may be wrong, but 9:45-10:00 is a significant mistake IMO. The whole reason this ground pin burns out is because the single ground cannot carry the load. The replacement hardness has an extra grounding wire to alleviate this, but you just bent it out of the way and left it hanging because it didn't exist on the original harness. This means the same issue can just happen again. It's my understanding that both the extra wire and the burnt out pin are both grounds, so the idea is to alleviate the issue by tying them both together to distribute the current across both grounds so they don't overheat like that.
I can't say for sure, but from what I can tell from the Ford service paper, that pin is not being used. It is pin "L" on connector "C3265A". It says "Circuit Function: Not Used". Whether the pin inside the control module is contacted to ground, I don't know. I guess one could do a continuity test and see if it is the same circuit as pin "M", which is the ground.
@@AutoTechWorld_DIY Yeah. I've read reports from people online that there's continuity between L and M, but I haven't verified this personally. I plan on doing this fix to my mustang, so when I get it apart I will test if there's continuity and reply back.
@@AutoTechWorld_DIY I tested it, there's continuity between the two pins (the corner and the one next to it horizontally (L&M)) ('16 Mustang). I joined them together when I fixed the wiring and the heated & cooled seats work fine. I think joining them like this is a better alternative so you don't melt that pin again. Joining them 2 to 1 is a bit tough since they're thicker gauge, but most people will figure out a way to do it, I'm sure.
Great video! I was able to fix my used car that I bought. The previous owner said that all the seats quit working on the same day. This was the problem. Thank you!
Thank you for your post. I have a 2015 Lincoln Navigator and the set-up and issue was exactly the same. Because this never happened in the first 9 years of ownership, I did not change the original wiring as suggested. What I did do differently is this. Because I have changed out the connector to my coil packs by backing out the wires from the bottom of the Molex connection, I thought it would work here as well. I wanted to save time and bypass the time-consuming headache of splicing the wires. Two issues doing it this way : The power wire, bottom left (white and black), was the one that was melted. I figured that I had to splice at least that one. The larger challenge, however, was to try and slide-out the Molex wire lock (grey top that holds the wires in place slides horizontally by pushing the square tab on the side and sliding it out). Unfortunately, it was melted in place. With the locking key melted in place the release can not open enough to slide the wire out with the lock in place. So I had to figure out how to separate the connector and get the lock out without damaging the female connectors. It was cumbersome, but doable. I used needle nose pliers, a hack saw blade, Molex keys to pry behind the lock tab and various size screw drivers to carefully break-off tiny pieces of the black housing. The empty slot was a good place to start because I could break any connectors. It took a little while moving slowly and methodically until all of the wires were out. FYI; the grey wire locking key never slid out. I used a zip tie to separate the upper from the lower wires and carefully noted what colors went where. Reinserting them was a breeze, 1 minute. No splicing, save for one. I hope this gives everyone a simpler solution.
why wouldnt you just move all the good wires over to the new plug and repair the damaged one?? seems like a lot of work cutting/soldering all the wires
While a t55 will work the correct tool is a tp55. I have the same issue and sence this is not a warranty job and I do not wish to address this problem in the future I will be soldering the 3 wires directly to the terminals and run those wires through the connector.
I had same problem, just added another ground wire to base of seat and spliced into existing ground on harness. Bingo bango heat and cooled seats again
Is there Anyway to bypass the sync unit. My seats currently already have heated/cooled but only through stock sync 2 radio can I control them. Looking to upgrade head units as sync two is slow and the sync 2 to 3 kit is not worth it when I can get a way better unit for the price. Wondering if I can just find all wires/ modules and put a physical switch/button instead of the digital buttons found in sync climate? All other steering wheel controls etc would be fine through head unit but pretty sure I just end up forfeiting my seating functionality.
I am not having this exact problem, but my heated and cooled seats in a 2010 Taurus do not work. Lights turn on and then quickly off. I removed that connector from the DSCM and found no burnt pins, and tested the DSCM to find that there is power and ground however there's no communication to it from the dash. Also if you know where the pinout diagram for the DSCM connector is that'd be great.
Does anybody know if this is a common issue with most fords. My driver seat heat has stopped working but passenger is good. I do not have cooled/ventilation on the seats. I could just pull the plug to check. Im surprised the module wasn't damaged and probably would have tested the seats prior to reassembly. Thanks for the info!
Confirmed. Even with the module removed the lights came on and stayed on. Burnt connector, replaced the pigtail and heated seats are working once again.
Would this be the same basic repair for my 2010 Mercury Mariner? My heated seats stopped working and the fuse is good. If so, is the module located in the same location under the seat? Thanks for the great video. I'll subscribe and check out your other ones.
I haven't fixed it yet, but I have the problem pinned down. It's common for a pin in the electrical connector to the heated seat controller under the passenger seat to burn out. They sell a replacement pigtail connector that you can splice in. I haven't bought one yet. Waiting for summer.
