The car went on the dyno and put out 271 hp. The problem was the boostsolenoid. After replacing it did 315 hp and 446 nm. Thank you all for your kind reactions.
I think I can explain the likely reason for the 100-200 time differences from my time owning my revo ST. Revo maps don’t tend to bring in the boost as suddenly as most maps; they try and bring it in more gradually to give a more exciting power delivery and make it worth revving all the way out to the redline. So doing the 4th gear pull this one probably doesn’t have as much torque from the same RPM as the other ST, and obviously factoring in a gear change will always confuse things. I’d imagine this ST would do a better 100-200 than the last one if they both started in third.
This. Bigger turbo generally means more lag, but more boost/hp at top end at the expense of low end responsiveness. Most manufacturers put small turbos on for 3 reasons. Cost efficiency, low/midrange responsiveness, and longevity as smaller turbos mean less boost is pushed through, increasing reliability of the engine. For those that dont know.
@@mimidotcat still a fiesta, even if it had 700hp. 330hp aint even that much these days. A stage 1 330d is already 330 so what. A 3 cilinder 1.5 engine with 330hp is not thebszme as a 3l d with 330hp and 700 plus nm. Also curious how long it's going to hold.
I have a 2016 USDM Fiesta ST. I have owned and currently own cars with 3x as much power. However, the FiST is still my favorite driving experience. Mine has no power mods but has suspension and better tires. You can use 10/10 of the car and still be under legal speed limits and with it being so tiny, it is great in congested driving and cramped city roads. Ive had some quality issues with interior hardware, but I feel that is to be expected for a car I only paid 17k for slightly used at the end of 2016. It is now my 16 y/o daughters car but I make excuses to use it when I can. Such a fun car.
330 in that tiny thing would be very fun. I have a 60hp 3door fiesta I call it the winter beater shitbox. It easily fits a wash mashine in the hatch. Second car is a 350hp E82 N55
He has a DV+ diverter valve upgrade. It needs to be oiled every 15k kms. This has not been done in a long time, going further on the sound it makes. It gets stuck and the air goes back over the turbo blades hence making the sounds. The spring needs to be upgraded as wel as you can hear a whistle at full throttle wich means it cant hold boost. Thats why its so slow.
Hey, can i get a similar turbo flutter sound on my ST with a blow off valve without damaging anything? It sounds awesome even though it's bad for the turbo.
@@janpetira5130 No because the sound is specifically air rushing back through the compressor/turbine. I wouldn't know how to simulate that, and why would you want to. Because to the trained ear it sounds like your car is poorly set up.
That's got open throttle compressor surge, by the sounds of it. It shouldn't be chirping on throttle. That turbo isn't destined for this world, unless that's sorted out. 10:10 you can really hear it.
I think the turbo is creating more boost than the head can handle indeed. Needs a much less aggressive boost ramp, and probably a lot of headwork to actually get the air into the combustion chamber. Some people should really not be in the business of tuning cars. How did this get out the door as an OK by the company that tuned it. shm.
I've had two Revo stage 1 remaps on two Audi's. First was my 2010 A6 3.0ltr qauttro sline lemans edition.. it changed the car that much I had to learn to drive it again. Then my 2017 A7 black edition which really made it shift. I highly recommend them and never had any silly engine management lights ping up. Smiles everytime you want to play.
@@davidgriggs3967 Also it's 1183 curbweight, so 1250-1280kg when all the fluids are in. Not that lightweight tbh. Considering it's on 215 tires with mcpherson struts front and solid rear axle, it's not going to be all that stable in highspeed corners. I think they're overpriced for what you get. And about the surge, its not just back for performance but it's also bad for the turbobearing. Long gears too. 1: 3.58, 2: 1.95, 3: 1.29. Compare that to a Honda EP3, 1: 3.266, 2: 2.13, 3:1.517. The long gears and low redline.... You can do better for the money.
@@The_Noticer. the fun with Fiestas is about improving the torque delivery with a nice tune and small mods to get things like improved time on boost. My current tune (by Collins) requires a stronger actuator on the stock turbo but it makes a heck of a difference, along with now being able to soft limit at 7000 instead of 6500. The low end power delivery is really improved by the tune, much more nimble now and able to use all of the power instead of feeling restrained until you're past 3000 rpm. Best thing is it's not ASBO levels like some cars I've seen which are mostly concerned by dyno figures.
@Gibbon more like a Fiesta ST thing, their other cars don't really do this, or at least not more than their competition. You've got emission regulations to thank for it.
Many times that floating feel when accelerating comes with higher mileage cars not because there is nothing wrong with engine management but because there might be many parts become loose and worn ,for example engine mounts,subframe mounts and bushings,suspension etc.
To the owner. Check the fuel pump. I it is a common problem. I have a turbotechnics s270 with the same gear you have frome revo. It also was lacking behind power. Than we changed the fuel pump because the fiesta was on all stages little bit underpowered.I have now on the dyno 300hp +440nm.
@Gigs Sijg If it were short of fuel it would boost cut when the ecu registered knock . I would be looking at compression test first then checking intercooler efficiency and coil packs seeing as the performance was up and down like a yoyo on those pulls.
These cars stock suffer from heatsoak. That is what he is experiencing here. After just 1 pull, with an aftermarket IC, he would probably have jumped 10-12 degreesC on the intake temps. Fuel pump should be sufficient until around 350HP.
I had a disappointing test drive in one at a dealer after reading all the glowing reviews. I was hoping for more of a boost haus (or at least a car that felt like it had more easy potential); this is definitely the exciting power delivery I was looking for.
Talking about loosing power, i had the feeling that I heard that BOV was leaking air under acceleration from the outside camera perspective at 10:10. It might be that or could be intentionally from the software to reduce overboost.
These have leaky diverter valves standard, so if that wasn't upgraded with the rest of it, it could well be leaking. Kind of sounds like compressor surge at 10:10 but I am not familiar with this turbo so it could be wastegate.
@@BrentLobegeier Its not the Wastegate, its the BOV. Im driving the x47r and with the standard BOV you can feel that the car is loosing a lot of power, thats the reason why its "slow". Im driving a DV+ btw and im running a 9,7 sec 100-200. The Wastegate dont do this kind of noice i think.
While I don't disagree that it is most likely leaky DV, wastegates can sound like this. Depends on the turbo, haven't heard an x47 with external gate yet
@@BrentLobegeier x47r is an hybrid Turbo, so its a better original Turbo. The Turbo has an internal wastegate. External can Sound Like this, but internals? I dont know exactly so i dont disagree with you😅. But in the end, we both will never know😂
@@Oli20002 again I was unfamiliar with the turbo setup so most likely a leaking DV. Internal gates will almost never sound like that. External gates can sound like flutter, I hear quite a few Subarus on gate sounding like compressor surge
I'm running the same RT330 setup on my Mk7 ST and here is definitely something not right compared to mine. Also I did 270km/h GPS on the autobahn in mine, could have gone a tiny bit faster! Also try to disable the ESC(or did you?), otherwise the ECU will cut power in a-lot of situations! That really helps alot, and ofcourse dry tarmac with good tires :-)
Defiantly something up with the car here, If ran on the correct fuel for the high octane map (99 here in the uk) then it will do anywhere from 9-10s, i personally have the RT330 kit. The same as this car and have done a 10s flat 100-200KPH
I had on my fiesta st 383hp on stock engine and stock internals with itg pro alloy and bigger boost pipes these engine are very strong for the size of the engine
I think you put the traction control into sport and not completely OFF. That's possibly why the power felt ON and OFF ...? You have to hold the ESC button down for about 5 seconds to completely turn all traction control OFF.
No. Just buy an ST for cheap. You are literally replacing every part aside from some of the chassis and maybe interior trim. Literally the most expensive way to go about it.
Bro. You realize that any cars equipmeng needs to be almost completely exchanged in order to create a sports car, right? Even if you put a 350ps engine in a normal fiesta, what dobyou think will happen to periphery? One tip on the gas pedal and everything explodes.
In one scene watching he car accelerate from outside the car, it sounded like the blow off valve was not holding, it sounded like something was stuck open and not holding proper boost.
Ah, Revo. One of the few tuning companies that offer a safe Overrun file that actually sounds decent without compromising reliability, compared to these stupid generic pop and bang maps that keep you and your motor warm all year round.
@@NikosPer by electronic, it uses torque vectoring (brakes inside wheels) but it really isn't very useful. These cars stock benifit from a propper LSD, and this is only amplified when you tune
@@BrentLobegeier that's a brake-based eLSD, not a normal eLSD. Don't confuse the two as the difference is massive. A brake-based eLSD will have an open diff and electronically brake the wheel which slips. As a result torque flows to the wheel with more grip due to that open diff. A (normal) eLSD will use clutches just like some mechanical LSDs, only those clutches will be controlled electronically by a control unit instead of mechanically by forces of nature. This is a massive thing, because it means your LSD can potentially be proactive (depending on the control unit programming) instead of strictly reactive as in the case of a mechanical LSD. A great example of why having a proactive diff is great is that it allows diff-based torque vectoring. That means you're altering the settings of the diff based on steering input, which allows you to rotate the car into the corner better. This is why you hear about torque vectoring in cars like the Focus RS or the new Audi RS3. To conclude, brake-based eLSDs are inferior both mechanical LSD and normal eLSDs. This isn't actually even an LSD, it's just an open diff helped by brakes. However normal eLSDs are superior to mechanical LSDs due to the simple fact that you can't have torque vectoring with the latter.
Am I the only person who really doesn't like the phone's screen taking up a fourth of the video's size, and the POV footage getting interrupted by outside shots? Other than that, nice driving as usual and a nice car aswell (I'm biased, though, as I own a Fiesta myself).
@AutoTopNL you've driven both the mk7.5 and mk8. for about a year i have been fighting my demons when deciding whether i should get the mk7.5 and mk8. many factors like torque, suspension, looks come into play and i can't decide. which do you prefer more, and for what reason?
@@AutoTopnl Hey thanks for the reply. Reliable as any car honestly. I have a Colins Performance "CP2E" package which is known to be a very safe one. This is a "stage 2" map with actuator, ITG induction kit and airtec intercooler. I also have a Colins rear engine mount and short shifter. These cars have been known to run up to 400bhp on a stock engine, so long as they're well maintained and driven correctly :). Yes, very fun indeed but I guess naturally, you're always left wanting more.
@@rd6781 hi fellow CP2E owner 👋 Recently had mine done too. Very happy with the improvement - I also appreciate that they don't sell on arbitrary dyno figures but just rate an improvement over stock. The power and torque delivery improved, smooth but potent from much lower down the revs. I know other people who've even just been running CP2 have achieved figures well over the advertised improvements, so I suspect our cars are closer to 250 in good conditions. Dunno about you, but I'm most impressed with how the upgraded actuator improves the stock turbo with the new map! This car went from 'pleasant' to 'loads of fun' again 😁
@@ChristopherWoods What a small world! Yes agree with all of your sentiments. I only had mine "stock" for around a month, maybe less before I drove down to Colins for the upgrades. Stock felt a little bit held back, especially second gear which I understand is torque limited from factory. Actuator is what really sets it apart as you say, holding boost right up the rev range. Some PS4 tyres will be my next upgrade come spring/summer. CP4/5 package would be the dream, but a lot of money! Had mine just over a year and genuinely love it, always look forward to driving it. Glad you're enjoying yours too.
@@rd6781 ah going straight to Collins is definitely a treat 😁 I had MP215 for about two years which was better but still felt like it was held back. The Collins package all together really sorts the car out. And best thing is, it's not that much more to go CP3 or 4 in a year's time 😉 the guys at the workshop are sound too. Really know their chops.
Thwt turbo ain't gonna last very long with this kind of flutter. If it makes that sound it means that the pressure isn't being released on time when you close the throttle plate. So it pushes back on the compressor impeller and thus wearing the thrust bearing.... 🤷♀️
He mentioned in the video that it's got a blow off valve, so that's what you're hearing. It makes sure what you're saying doesn't happen. That flutter during WOT doesn't sound normal though.
@@xIcarus227 I drive a turbo myself so when I hear flutter something is not right. A blow off valve produces a hiss like sound. Flutter is when the pressure suddenly brakes the compressor thus producing the sound. Correct me if I'm wrong 😁 Edit A lot of ppl do it for the sound though. It sounds rally like 🙄
Something wrong with the blow off. To much turbo pressure or smith cauz it's letting out pressure to early. U can hear it when you press the gas and hold it, there are some blow off noise. Or something wrong with the ECU remap
Thats what i was thinking when i heard it. At the tuner they checked it out, but there was nothing wrong with the blow off. The noise was coming from the airintake.
Die flutter bij WOT klinkt niet goed, die turbo probeert meer lucht erin te duwen dan mogelijk is en komt terug de compressor in. Lijkt me handig om daar een betere boostcontroller in te plaatsen want dit is niet echt goed voor de langdurigheid van de motor of turbo...
Might not been 330hp. But I can confirm that this exact car made 312.9hp and 471nm when we had a dyno day with our club. Mine made that same day (same dyno) 318.6hp and 430nm. There could be an underlying problem with the car, after all it's a performance car.
Watching the vid it seemed this tune was more about torque as it was losing power at the top end, maybe a 100 - 200 run using 3rd and 4th gears would be quicker?
Guys, I bought one, got one question is it normal that steering wheel is very light all the time? I mean it is good in city and on speed under 100kmh, but when you go over 150 it really feels a bit scary, basically need all time to keep both hands on steering wheel.
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