I just watched this video. You have help me far more than anyother video I have watched. I need u in my life. I also have a 2007 sante fe. I hope u have videos on that.
Glad to help. The cars I work on are all customer’s cars with the exception of a few that are mine. You would have to let me know what the Santa Fe needs and I could try and help out.
Most rotors are packaged with oil on them so they don’t rust while sitting on the shelf. So you need to spray that oil off before putting the rotors into use otherwise the oil will contaminate the pads.
No. You need to physically check them or listen for the signs of them starting to wear out. Squeaking is probably the easiest way. Brake dust is just a byproduct of the friction happening between the two during everyday use.
Hi, if you take the lid off the brake reservoir, you won't need a tool push the piston in. Because you've remove the 'pressure lid' you'll be able to push the piston back with your fingers. And it won't squirt or spray break fluid out, either. Thought it might be off use. Cheers 😉👍🏻
Noooo That caliper bolt is not 7mm. I have a 2014 focus and my caliper bolts are Torx. I tried 7mm as you indicated and there was way too much slop using an allen, switching to Torx was right and tight. Yes 7mm will work but its not the right tool for the job and ultimately you will wind up buggering the head.
I watched your video guide about changing engine oil and successfully did it. It runs much smoother than serviced at dealer's as I bought better quality oil. Now I think I've just learnt something new and will try it one day when needed. Thank you for your sharing!
You should have cleaned all the rust off of the hub before installing the new rotor. What was the cause of the uneven wear on the pads. You also don't tighten up with a breaker bar so the brakes don't fall off. There is a manual with torque specifications.
Ok this has been pretty helpful for me but I’ve taken a hammer and it’s not loosening the rotor whatsoever, any other suggestions on how to get the rotor off?
Get a bigger hammer. In all seriousness I’ve always been successful in beating the rotor with a hammer. I have a couple hammers. A small household type hammer and if that doesn’t work I go get my big hammer and give it a couple whacks. If you live in a rusty area, try using some penetrating oil right on the hub where the rotor is sitting on (the small circle in the middle of the rotor) and use some sand paper as well to loosen up the rust.
I was told never to push brake fluid backwards through the ABS valve you are supposed to clamp the brake hose and undo the bleed screw then push the brake calliper piston back.
Thank you for this video! i will be doing my brake pads and rotors tomorrow. This is my first car and your video has helped me enjoying to work on my car and save money too!
@@josec4916 It went really good i did my front brake discs and pads. The only trouble i had was finding an 7mm allen key. i put brembo brakes on it and they are sooo worth the money!
Great video. On a side note. I hate Ford when they put 16 and 18 mm on cars. Such odd sizes could have easily went to 17 and 19mm. And yes 16mm is a 5/8
You will mostly find 17mm and 19mm on Japanese cars. American cars tend to be the 16 and 18 as well as European cars with their hex head fasteners. And No a 16mm is a 16mm and a 5/8” is a 5/8” they are from completely different units of measurements. If they were the same, they would be called so. 16mm is slightly bigger than a 5/8” wrench/socket. You’ll find that when using a 16mm wrench on a 5/8” fastener that it is loose.
Thanks for the video; I'm working up to doing the brakes on my own 2013 Focus and this is a huge help. I see you have the jack stands on the pinch welds but where do you recommend placing the floor jack when jacking up the car? There doesn't seem to be enough room at the designated jacking points to fit both the jack and jack stand.
The jack stands are on the designated side jack points. They look like pinch welds but they are reinforced in that area specifically. Most cars have center jack points located either under the radiator area or just in front or behind the engine.
Good video Watched to see if there was going to be any tricks to getting the rotor off. One tool that sometimes comes in handy for brake jobs: Dead blow hammer. They aren't expensive. They are made of heavy plastic I used to use a heavy hammer and a chunk of 2×4.
whats a good brake pad to use? just had brake done by a mechanic and they are very noisy. he claims someone must have panic stopped damaging the pads. they make a lot of brake dust also thanks
Original braking system for these Fords is made by ATE, I use their ceramic line of pads and the normal/plain discs, that is what they recommend. Less brake dust and as factory stopping power. But I gues your's just need some bedding in, driving around and slowly stopping for some miles/km.
Having same problem and have the ceramic brakes but they tried to tell me tire shine messed up my rotor. Only one brake makes noise and it made noise before I ever used tire shine. Never go to pep boys
The amount of "damaging sideways force" you're referring to as caused by hammering will not damage anything. The amount of force from bumps in the road with the weight of a moving car is an incredible amount more.
Everything makes sense except when you put the new brake on… when you took the old brake off their were 2 pieces you showed but when the new one was put on you only put one on
If you look closely (pause the video) you’ll notice that half of the rotor is shiny and the other half is not because the rotor has been completely worn down by metal to metal contact.
@HelpingHandAutoRepair thanks for replying. I checked and it's drum. No videos ive found for that are as calm and straight forward as this one but they'll have to do
Well there is the typical parts store brands if you’re into those. If you are doing normal driving, the OE pads and rotors work great. If “Stoptech” makes some for your car, those are great too
Hi, I’m currently going to be doing a head gasket kit, timing belt and water pump replacement on my 1997 Honda Civic Ed coupe with the d16y8. Could you hook me up with a tool guide??
Fishing The Pacific Northwest No, simple hand tools (metric wrenches and sockets) pliers, you will need a torque wrench and you do need to take the head to the machine shop to be resurfaced and pressure tested.
I know this video is from a few years ago, but just a quick question. When you jacked up the car did you only jack up the front of the car or did you use jack stands on the front and back?
Good question. If there is a front jacking point, use that. Then place two Jack stands on both front spots. If there is only a side Jack point, then you have to just use that.
Thanks for the vid, I followed this exactly except the brake cleaner. I have a nocking noise when I brake sometimes, guessing sometimes isn’t tight enough? And they are sqeeling like crazy, any thoughts on that?
I replaced my brakes, no problem, but now it is making a ticking sound. I thought it might be a rock in the tire, but now I am thinking it might be the dust cover scraping. Has anyone else had that problem?
Thanks bro. I wondered what exactly size sockets and hex heads id need. Now i know what to bring from work. I use a sea clamp on the piston. Hope it ll work on this newer car.
Did the break on the back of your rotor have two metal circles ? Had mine recently done and took apart and the two circles appear to be rubbing on something somehow making a squealing noise
Honestly I don’t remember as this was a long time ago. Plus this is a customer’s car so I only saw it this one time. Maybe you could link me to a picture of what the pad looks like? Probably more trouble than it’s worth tbh.
My brakes are squeaking when i try tot slow down or come to a stop. Would i need to replace the brake pads alone or the brake pads and the rotor. Also, roughly how much would that cost?
I would change the rotors also tbh. If you need to replace all 4 corners and you’re doing the work yourself, expect to pay around $320-350 for pads and rotors. If you are just doing the fronts, cut that in half.
How long do the brakes typically last on these cars? Got my '13 Focus in September 2017 with 42.9k on it and brakes were brand new and done by the shop that we got it from. I'm approaching 97k and brakes do seemed more worn than at 42k but it doesn't feel like I need to change them just yet.
Honestly there are too many variables to give an honest answer to that question. Differ driving styles, different rotor and pad chemical makeups. I’d say you’re about right where they need to be. If you have pad left and they aren’t squeaking you’re good.
You can use the factory car Jack to lift the car up to place it on Jack stands. I would not recommend using only the factory car Jack to perform the work on the car alone. They simply aren’t strong enough nor safe enough for the back and forth movements you will place on the car when you’re loosening bolts and such.
You don’t have to. You can if you want. Also I should note. That sometimes (probably 2/10 cars I do brakes on) brake fluid can overflow the reservoir. So you can use something like a Turkey baster to remove a little fluid before compressing the piston back in.
Silly question but as a novice: how can you tell the rotors are worn? Tried seeing if I could get a glimpse of comparison but you’re very efficient lol. Also, are there any torque call outs? Thank you for posting this video!
It’s honestly down to school of thought on these things. Of course that’s out of the question if the rotor is obviously extremely grooved or if the rotor is NOT shiny anymore on either side as it is completely ruined. Most would say to at least turn/resurface the rotors and put on new pads. I am not a believer in turning the rotors. If the rotors are bad then I would just replace them as well. Others would say just replace the rotors with the pads which is the best way to achieve the best performance. Then there are others that will just do a “pad slap” like you see here in the video if they have decided the rotors are ok based on one of two reasons: 1. They are certain (via experience) the rotor is fine. As I have done here. 2. They don’t have the financial means to replace the rotors as well. I can’t speak to that situation as everyone’s pockets are different.
I am sure with a quick google search you can find torque specs, however I have never torqued down this stuff when I do brakes. I get them tight and I know they are fine.
Thank you for the response. It was thorough enough to explain options and consequences for those options. This was the most thorough video I’ve seen on RU-vid. Going to give it a whirl when the parts come in. Wish me luck!
minimum permissible thickness of rotors are always indicated at the edge of rotors. So you can always measure actual thickness of your used rotor by calipers
How thin can they get before replacing ? They're about 1/4 in thickness left My front ones are disc the rear ones are drum. I've heard drums last much longer.
Love this video, helpful beyond words. Does anyone know what the torque specs are for those rotor bolts (6:02)? I've checked the service manual and forums but can't seem to find that information anywhere.