387 pounds later and a new coolant hose into the fire wall, it still leaks. Mechanics wanted 900 pounds to remove the dash and replace the heater matrix. Only to find this hero now. Sad I didnt find your video sooner. Love to you man.
Thanks Dan, tips on getting to the issue area (trim removal) are/were invaluable! Replacement O rings are 18mm bore and 2mm cross section being NBR70 material in case anyone else needs to know. Like others only issue was rejoining the pipes of which I installed thin band stainless hose clamps on each pipe and used multigrips to pull the pipes together, then remove them and put back factory "plastic" pipe clamp. No leaks and the O rings were $1.00 AUD in total from a local Bearing/Engineering shop. Side note there was lots of swearing as this is not a fun job. Many thanks for putting together the video. Cheers.
We are struggling to get the upper pipe to reconnect - plan to get some skinny hose clamps and try with pliers in the morning - heaps of swearing already completed - lower pipe easy to replace and push together!
@@adammathers8708 I sprayed the pipe and the seal area with silicone spray. The pipe running up into the firewall has to be dead straight with the heater matrix pipe, plus, lots more swearing.
I have the same issue, all this time I thought the smell was a mold problem but ended up being coolant leaking in the car. Made me feel ill. Thank you for the video
@@Gh_7591I just completed this job with Dan's video. A bit of back and forth between pushing them apart from the footwell then wiggling / pulling from the engine bay. Oh, and a lot of swearing!
Just wanted to say thank you for documenting this. Just discovered this on my 2012 ST this morning....my son dropped an apple under the driver's seat and when I went to retrieve it found a puddle of coolant which then lead me to these pipes which prompted me to search and hence find this video 😂
Very helpful video. Especially around taking the trim off. I can see why you didn’t video the pipe but. It took me about 30 - 45 mins getting the trim off about 2 hours to spilt the pipes and get the o-rings out and new ones in. About 30 mins to get the pipes back together. And 15 mins to get all the trim back on. I hate to think how long it would have taken me without this video 👍 👍 👍
Thanks a lot pal, that's about how long it took me as well! A mornings work but relatively simple / fiddly series of tasks. The reason I made the vid was when I came to do mine I couldn't find anyone showing the whole strip down process. Glad it helped 😀
G'day Dan. A huge thanks for this video and explanation. I have exactly 0 knowledge or skills when it comes to cars or general handyman skills but had a crack at this after watching your video (and the Haynes one mentioned). I think I've had complete success, saving myself a small fortune even when counting buying a couple of tools. I found when trying to get the pipes back together that lining both of them up and seating them, then pushing from the engine bay side made them slip into place much more easily. Thanks again!
This is by far the best video on this topic, thanks a lot for posting. You were right not to include the bit where you separate the pipes, it's a real b%#@d of a job. I fabricated my own tool for this from an old hard wooden curtain rail. I cut a thin bit off square to make a varying thickness 'coin'. Then it's a case of insert - twist - turn - repeat. I completed the repair and car has been running for a week, so far so good. No leaks and heater is working fine. It takws a few runs for the system to purge air, so don't worry if the coolant level drops a little. Only quirk I had was when i started the car back first time there was a buzzing sound coming from under the steering wheel. Turns out its from the passenger temperature sensor that was too dusty. Only job left is to clean out all the coolant from the footwell. I have soaked up as much as possible with kitchen towels, but it's not designed to evaporate i guess. Again, Sterling work for the video. Saved me at least £500 i reckon.
Thanks for this It's actually shameful how many mechanics didn't want to touch this on my car. Basically out of options I decided to just do it myself and I don't know what all the fuss was about it really wasn't that hard. My main struggle was getting the pipes back together and it just being a bit fiddly but you really helped save me a few quid on this and now I know of a few mechanics to avoid in future so thankyou.
@@hendmen9815 Try using a bit of vaseline. It's definitely the hardest part though just takes time twisting to get the right angle and pulling them together. I did also go into the engine bay and push the pipes but I'm not sure that helped. I was starting to think I was stuck but eventually just managed to get them on. Definitely takes a bit of patience and perseverance.
It is important to check that all the old o ring has been removed before fitting the new one or it will not seat fully in the groove and prevent the pipe fitting back in. I used a small mirror to check the groove was clear and the replacement o-ring was fully seated. Also make sure you line the pipe up straight when pushing them back in (not angled) and I put the top pipe in first.
Thank you so much for this excellent video, I found my coolant level was dropping, drivers footwell was piss wet! I got it done this morning and went to top up the coolant, the inner part of the cap got lodged in the reservoir 🤦. I managed to remove something from the middle of the inner part of the cap and slowly top it up, then bodged a seal using the outer part of the cap which still screws on. I’ll replace the whole reservoir which seems way easier than those heater pipes!
Sounds familiar! My coolant cap seperated into the inner (stuck in the bottle) and the outer screw part in my hand! Ford have changed the design of the cap slightly so it doesn't get stuck anymore.
Hi Dan I have a exactly some issue with my ford focus 2011 but I could not find anyplace sell its o-ring to buy and replace May I ask how did you bought those o-rings?
@@tonynguyen4007 Bought mine from my local ford dealer. Just gave them the o ring part number not the vehicle reg, they're used on lots of ford models. Part number in description - think they're on ebay too. Ford updated the heater matrix design (to remove the o ring join) and now try to sell you the entire matrix/pipework instead.
@@dan91sgarage my o'ring is too so I couldn't see its part number. Is it all ford focus mk3 cars have same o'ring size? Yeah It cost me 1500AUD to replace, I'm trying to find a fit o'ring to fix it
When doing mine, I had someone under the bonnet jiggling the pipes through the fire wall. That seemed to help. Trying to dry the carpet was a nightmare. I don't know if it's because of the coolant's properties, but it would not dry. I ended up taking the carpet and underlay out and hosing them down with water many times. That seemed to do the trick. Great video BTW.
Excellent video Dan. I've got this very same leak developed on my Focus today, so I'll grab some O rings, and set to. So glad you showed in detail how to get those dammed panels off.
Should be a factory recall. The design was floored pardon the pun from the get go. Relying on a 30 cent o ring from flooding your cars carpet with smelly coolant. My local ford dealer doesn't supply the o rings but they do supply a redesigned heater core which has the joins inside the engine bay. They told me the change atleast one a week. This car keeps me very busy. Just glad its a manual. FYI ur mechanic isn't ripping u off. They are just fitting a better designed heater core so it doesn't happen again. At around $300 -$400 for the part alone.
Agree it should have been a recall along with the bumper vents that leak water into the boot of every Focus. The original o-rings in my 2 x Ford Focus's have lasted over 10 years and 85k miles. I would rather spend £5 replacing the o rings myself for another 10 year fix, than spending hundreds/a thousand for the updated matrix (never said it was a rip off, changing heater matrix's is a ball ache job no one wants to do really). Each to their own.
@schmick63 Yes, I have made a video about all the Ford Focus water leaks on my channel. It's my second most popular video! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--cCm6cDdoMg.html&lc=Ugwy3Vu3yUJ54DK1NkV4AaABAg
@@dan91sgarageI had the boot leak a few months ago (still not fully resolved) and now this. What's next on the list of "p*ss poor design from Ford" Dan? Cheers for the videos BTW - I may not be able (or confident) to do these repairs myself but at least I can guard against "it's yer big end" syndrome when visiting the garage!
@@jeffholt9437 Thanks for the comment, fore warned is fore armed as they say. Ford's most rediculous design choice is the wet cambelt. It is used on the early 1.8 diesels, 2.0 ecoblue diesels and the 1.0 ebcoboost petrols. The rubber cambelt is inside the engine casing and is constantly coated with engine oil, over time it breaks down the rubber and these particles clog the oil pickup which can ruin the crankshaft/conrod bearings through oil starvation (literally the "big end" you mentioned!, knackered engine). It is a horrible design.
hi Dan I have same issue on my focus mk3 im going to do it soon and yeah thanks for your video extremly handy just thinking wher did u get oring replacement
I bought them direct from Ford. I have listed the part numbers in the video description. Some people have bought them from eBay or Amazon as well. And another guy in the comments has listed the sizes for generic o-rings too. Good luck friend
I have this issue just recently on my Citroen van. So it looks like from this video there maybe some pipes that are leaking in a a similar place . I say another video where a guy did a similar job on a Peugeot 206. Looks fiddly but Im fed up with getting wet feet every other day and topping up the coolant
Part numbers are in the description, easy to find on eBay. Not too difficult to pull them apart. There is a clamp to undo in the engine bay to allow easier movement of pipes as shown in video.
Is it usual to drop from max to min over a couple hundred miles with this leak? While my floor is wet, the leak doesn't seem to be dripping enough when I check it to be such big loss,
There should be no loss from the coolant system at all. If the carpet is wet then you should see the drip at the heater matrix pipe join. Also the coolant header tank can crack underneath, leaking into the engine bay and the header tank cap has o-rings to seal and these can also wear or get damaged.
@@dan91sgarage I've just changed the degas hose and expansion tank, the o ring near foot well is leaking, but it doesn't seem enough leak to be why the floor is so wet
@@dan91sgarage Dou! I’m a fool. Do the job thank you,not fun went home soaked. Interestingly the kit is not list on the parts catalogue,it’s a “under the counter” part.
@@keanMechanic No worries. And yes, Ford try to sell you the updated heater matrix. The mad thing is these o rings and clips are used on 3 or 4 different models but if you mention mk3 Focus, they don't exist anymore! Lol. I asked by part number and they used a different car model parts list to order them. Think they're on UK eBay also.
The black clips are there to stop the pipes seperating. When you clip them on there is a groove inside that the metal pipe ridges fit into. The o-ring does the sealing job. You were lucky the pipes didn't blow open! The clips on mine could be rotated when cold when they leaked and when they were freshly re-sealed. It doesn't seem to mean anything (despite what other people say).
@@dan91sgarage thank you mate appreciate the reply I brought it to a garage he said the heater matrix needed replacing but I honestly don't think he looked I pulled trim back and had a look and it seemed like it was coming from the pipe il order the clip and see what happens might need to replace the o-ring like yourself so thanks again for the help and the video
@ Scott Anderson Bought mine from my local ford dealer. Just gave them the o ring part number not the vehicle reg, they're used on lots of ford models. Part number in description - think they're on ebay too. Ford updated the heater matrix design (to remove the o ring join) and now try to sell you the entire matrix/pipework instead. 😡
I’ve replaced the o ring but I can’t for the life of me get the pipes back together. I’ve used silicone grease but now I’m thinking the o ring might be a bit thick? Any tricks to getting the pipes back together without bending anything or ripping my hair out? This is my first car repair.
Assuming you bought the genuine Ford o rings, they should fit well into the c-channel at the end of the matrix pipes. It is important to check that all the old o ring has been removed before fitting the new one or it will not seat fully in the groove and prevent the pipe fitting back in. I used a small mirror to check the groove was clear and the replacement o-ring was fully seated. Also make sure you line the pipe up straight when pushing them back in (not angled) and I put the top pipe in first.
@@dan91sgarage which is a good point the clips seem to be a bad design flaw in my personal opinion why would you engineer something that gets so hot with a join with a runner gasket thrown in the middle of it
Make sure the metal tubes are fully pushed back together other wise the metal bands won't fit in the groove in the plastic clip. If the o-ring isn't seated in the matrix tube channel correctly it can hold the pipes a part.
I have this issue. I've taken it to 3 mechanics and they have told me that they won't touch it. That the car is beyond economical repair. My car is swimming. When i park on a slope yhe are puddles in my back driver carpet. Issue i have is i uave absolutely no experience
The problem is that when you mention a leaking heater matrix to a mechanic they think it will be a 12hr job, taking the entire dashboard out to change the whole heater matrix. No one wants to do that job. The Ford matrix leaking o-rings is an easy (relatively speaking) job that takes about 4hrs max for a home mechanic with average experience. Maybe show the mechanic a video of the job as it's not as difficult or time concuming as they think? Good luck. 👍
Did you ask for them by part number? Some Ford parts departments say they are unavailable for the mk 3 focus and try to sell you an updated design matrix. The o-rings are used on at least 4 different ford models. Loads available on UK eBay. Got mine from a UK Ford dealer parts dept.
The parts and coolant will only be around £10, the job should take a skilled mechanic somwhere between 2-4 hrs labour + VAT. I don't work for a garage so I can't be any more accurate than that.
Remove clips on pipes, make sure the clip in the engine bay is released so the pipes can move, then I just held the matrix pipe in one hand and pushed the other pipe away, no real force required on my vehicle.
@@dan91sgarage how do I remove the clip in the engine bay? Thanks for the video by the way, I’m a girl and when I called my mechanic to say I was going to try to fix this myself after they’d quoted me $1000, they started laughing and mocking me. Now I’m getting this done purely out of spite! Just need to get the pipes back together and new clamp and I’ll be done. I’ve got the ends of the pipes together but can’t push them fully together, I didn’t realise the engine bay had a clip.
@@dan91sgarage by clip do you mean the plastic panel at the back of the foot well where the pipes go through into the front of the car? I’m sorry for all the questions I’ve been pulling my hair out for days over this
@Sam Robinson The clip is shown @8:03 in the video, it holds the 2 pipes to a bracket on the engine. Mine is a 1.6 petrol and other engines may vary. It is unfastened by sliding the plastic bar sideways at the bottom. Make sure the pipes and heater are correctly fastened together as they carry boiling hot coolant.
Oh my god , i just noticed today , my carpet was all wet and when i used paper towel it was all red , for sure its coolent leak and i checked my coolent its emptied
I've never liked these magic liquid sealants. If you're stuck in the middle of the desert and have no other choice then I guess I would. But it's not a hard jod to do properley with changing the o-rings, so that's all I would do to my cars.
It's quite a simple job for a qualified mechanic to complete. It only took me about 4 hours and I was taking it easy, the parts required are about £5. I think that most Ford garages will try to change the whole matrix to the updated version which will cost hundreds in parts and labour. Might be worth trying to find an independant garage and show them the video so they know what they're getting into. 👍
I’m having th same issue but I turned the bottom clip and it stopped leaking??? And my engine coolant fluid has stayed on max for ages even prior to the leak?? So
The parts and coolant will only be around £10, the job should take a skilled mechanic somwhere between 2-4 hrs labour + VAT. I don't work for a garage so I can't be any more accurate than that.
