I have a 2014 focus, it had the shudder problem as well as skipping gears and occasionally would not go into reverse. I took it the the local ford dealership hoping to maybe get a new pcm under the warranty. It turns out that in 2016 a new pcm was installed along with a new clutch assembly. So the dealer ran the diagnostic and told me the clutch was completely shot. $ 4000 to repair it. So after a few days I came across this video. Cleaned the grounds and now it works better than ever. Shifts beautifully. Crooked ford dealership!!! I cannot thank you enough for posting this video. Saved me a lot of money. Thank you
I bought a 2014 Focus in 2017. It had the transmission shudder when i bought it. At the time I figured it was just a common quirky thing that the dual clutch did. I came across a different ground video and did what you did. It didn't remove the shudder but it probably protected the TCM? I didn't change the transmission oil/fluid until it hit 150k. I changed it again at 200k. I hit a wild pig on the way to work in late 2019. The only mechanical stuff that was repaired had to due with the coolant system and AC. About a year ago clutch actuator B went out. It had a dent in it, probably from the animal strike. I bought one on Amazon. It lasted 3 months so i bought a genuine Ford one. Last week it was acting up again. I cleared code and ordered that 6mm tool that engages the clutch when actuator is removed. The guy in the RU-vid video used brake cleaner and WD40 to free up a frozen clutch. Right before Amazon showed up with the tool it did it again. Instead of using WD40, I used compressed air and some quick evaporation cleaner. A lot of dust came out while using the compressed air. I exercised the spring several times. Knock on wood, i haven't had a problem yet. Its got 237k miles now and has original TCM. I plan on incorporating the cleaning in my oil change regime. I'll change the transmission oil at 250k. Other than the transmission shudder, its been an amazing vehicle. About 90% of the miles are highway miles. Maybe that's why the transmission has lasted this long.
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles I love this little car. I live in Florida so it has no rust. I keep it super clean. I hope that the transmission lasts long enough for used car prices to come down a little. If the transmission goes out I doubt if I'll repair it.
Just did this to my ‘12 Focus a few weeks ago. The car was having intermittent shuddering in the lower gears. Also one day it wouldn’t go into drive or reverse for a few minutes. The car has been shifting very smoothly ever since. The TCM was replaced by Ford a few years ago. Question: could the poor electrical connections actually damage to the TCM causing it to fail?
@stuartgrimm6048 Seems like the TCM electronic components could possibly be damaged by higher current draw due to lower voltage drop from bad circuit grounds greatly reducing these components life span. Ohms law.
@@stuartgrimm6048 People have opened them up and found corrosion in them. It's sealed between the case halves but it degrades over time; it doesn't take much to deteriorate the circuitry. There are companies that will refurbish a TCM that you mail to them; but most if not all have stopped refurbishing the Getrag DPS6 Powershift TCM due to recurring issues.
I took my 2014 Focus to the dealership yesterday for a shudder on lower gears when accelerating from a complete stop. Now I only took to the dealership because I heard there is an extended warranty on the TCM for these cars, but they said it was not the TCM and it's a bad clutch and shift forks inside the transmission and it will cost around $3200 to fix. Anyway, do you think this fix would help the shudder that I have, and how would I know for sure they are right about their diagnose!?
Disconnecting the battery for an extended period of time (15-30 mins or more) can possibly reset the KAM for the computer. It's no big deal and it'll relearn quickly without problems
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles Thank you for your reply and answer. As a follow up, I performed the ground bond upgrade procedure you demonstrated in this video, and it really made a discernible difference for the better in the transmission operation in my '12 Focus, even with a brand new TCM. I very recently had the TCM replaced with a new unit under the Ford extended warranty on this component (waited two months for the replacement). The transmission operation was much better, but I still noticed the ever so slightest hint of clutch shudder on take off. After performing the outlined ground bond upgrade procedure, the shudder was completely eliminated. It now drives and shifts than it has in the previous 3.5 years I've owned and driven it. Thanks for the helpful videos!
Why are you using dielectric grease? Won’t it cause your ground to be isolated and won’t work properly? I thought dielectric grease is a big NO NO for grounds? Sorry I’m trying to do this fix on my car
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles Sorry I just want to understand the purpose of the grease? I bought a tube but just wanted to know before I start sanding down the paint 🤣
You DON'T put dielectric grease on the the grounding area!! use it on where you left expose metal that you don't want to rust. I just did this for a family members 2012 Ford Focus and it worked (because I did not do what you did), you defeated the whole chance of success because you don't really understand the purpose of dielectric grease
There are many instances in the Ford workshop manual where they recommend using electrical dielectric grease on electrical connections, including on recalls (fiesta fuse panel) So the affect of lubricating the connection should be minimal, and prevent arcing or corrosion from moisture buildup. It's how Ford tells the technicians to do it. Thanks for watching.
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles: Yes, it is to be put "on" the connection, After the connection is made. Not "in" the connection. Also Not on the threads of the grounding bolt. Dielectric grease is an Insulator.
@@zapa1pntcan you clarify? I’m also very confused about this…. Dielectric grease and electrical grease are NOT the same. Dielectric will insulate while electrical will enhance the connection…. All the guides say to use dielectric grease but this makes no sense?
@@seanh6179: Yes, I see my mistake. My apologies. You are correct, they do two different things. ( I have edited my previous statement.) The guides are correct, because they are assuming you know how to use dielectric grease. (the guides are aimed at their trained personnel ) What they Do Not say is what most people do not know. Dielectric grease should Not be put on the mating surfaces of a connection, because it is an insulator. Dielectric grease should be applied After the connection is made, to protect that connection from the atmosphere. It's like using heat shrink tubing. You do Not apply heat shrink Before making a connection.
@@zapa1pnt So I should sand down everything, retighten everything properly, THEN add dielectric grease everywhere on the OUTSIDE of this new connection correct? (On the front, on the bolt protruding out the back)?
