@@Myvintageiron7512 Pretty sure I've watched them, probably more than once, been following for several years. I used to work in a machine shop but an inattentive driver put my bike in the scrap heap and me in a wheelchair.
Great and thorough information. I enjoy watching your videos and learning new things about engines, especially small block Fords and FEs. Thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge to us all
Great information, brother 👍. I really appreciate your knowledge of engine building and the fact that you share it with all of us. Great attention to detail and keep the knowledge coming.
I know understand that my first 289 had some wierd cast iron heads , the exahaust ports was way ,way bigger . The car was imported to Sweden from New York. I pray for USA to be great again.
You're the best I've ever watched and really enjoy your videos you show the right way to do it looking forward to seeing how you build the 289 thumbs up 👍👍👍
@17:27 "Getting this to seal with a steel cutter" The Sunnen VGS-20 is pretty affordable on the used market since everyone upgraded to CNC. It will give you a standard 3-angle valve cut which mates pretty much perfectly, while cold, without valve springs. Even those super efficient beehive titanium springs will seal your valvetrain to take the charge from manifold to proper cylinder without leakage. Anyways, been watching for ages. You, Uncle Tony, and Jafromobile are probably the only 3 car YT'ers who I don't think Ive ever seen make a single factual error. Thanks for the tip on 396 cranks ("Pretty much perfectly" = You put a plug into the head, water in the chamber, cover with Plexiglas to prevent evap overnight, some chlorophenol ("red water leak detector paper") under the head, come back the next day, and the volume of water will remain the same and your paper will show no leak. I know there are way more rigorous ways than water leakage to define how well a seal performs, but we're not not fabricating stainless welds to keep supermagnets cold with Helium-4 at synchotrons here. Using water with an AMU of 5x is good enough ;))
Did you say uncle Tony is in a group for you that hasn't made any factual statements that hasn't been correct?? Now I do watch uncle Tony & he is a good utuber & entertaining. But I wouldn't use him as a guide to learning how a internal combustion engine works? He knows enuf about engines to fool the people that don't into believing that he dus. But I wouldn't call Tony to build a engine for me.
You mentioned your customer is reusing his factory 1966 289 rockers arms and the valves you installed are Chevy valves. The rockers are a rail style designed for the Ford valve which has a longer tip above the keeper groove than the Chevy valves do. The rocker's rails will make contact with the retainers at lifts around .470-.500. Have you ground down the rails for clearance or done something different?
@@Myvintageiron7512 1966 was the first year the 289 used the rail style rocker arm. Melling part # M886 or Ford C6OZ6564B are the self-aligning rail style rocker arms. I am not trying to bust your balls, just looking out for you and your customer as someone who made this mistake 30 years ago. The first windsors did not use them, but in 1966 they started and carried through the 302s and 351s. Check any of the auto parts websites to confirm.
Not a hot rod but going for another 40 hp. 👍👍 Heads and cam. Question: Youve cut for larger valves. The induction hardening (.020" deep usually) for the exhaust seat has been cut away. Hows that for longevity with no lead gas? Guess it wont get driven much anyway... Youre back to prelead head days. 🤔🤔 Cutting the stud boss to use guide plates. So youre using a rail tip guided 289 rocker arm on top of a .100" shorter stem chevy valves. Im interested in your retainer clearance with the stock diameter 1.250 springs and the shorter pushrod length. BTW that should make your rocker studs effectively longer with the .100 shorter valve and .100 shorter pushrod. Thanks.👍😎
Remember. Seats and valves distort by temperature when the engine is running. Temperature from one side of the seat/ valve to the other varies greatly. Valve seal? Think about it.🤔
Sweet video , love the details , I like how you use a drill press (looks like anyway) I'd be interested to know where to get those cutters and mount for the head.
Yes, the stud boss has to be machined the thickness of the guide plate to keep the stud at the correct length. I assume he's using the oem rail rockers which come with their own set of problems when you start using higher lift camshafts and having the rocker rail contacting the spring retainers. Anyone going through the trouble of converting these heads to a screw in rocker stud should have also machined them for guide plates so a non rail roller rocker could be used in the future.
Great Video!! I had purchased a set of GT40P heads a while back basically because they had larger valves installed and had some porting and polishing done on them. I dropped them off at the machine shop last week to have them gone through and the only concern the machinist had was that the hardened seats may have been cut away and that could cause problems down the road. Any thoughts on the hardened seats?
@@Myvintageiron7512 Turns out the heads that I bought had the Chevy valves in them just like what you have in the video. I got them back from the machine shop in late May and just now got around to installing them. Funny thing is when I was checking piston to valve clearance I discovered that the exhaust valves were shorter than the intake valves. The person I purchased them from actually never used them but the person that they bought them from ran them for a while. Must have had different length push rods for the exhaust. Anyway, I took them back to the machine shop he placed the straight bar across the valves he guesstimated that the exhaust valves looked to be ~.050 shorter. He is going to get exact measurements and order longer exhaust valves so that they are all the same height. I know I am going to need slightly longer push rods because I had to place two razor blades between the rocker arm and the valve on the intake valves to stop the push rod from moving up and down and then get about a 3/4 turn to reach the 25 ft/lb torque value. Did you have to install longer push rods on your build with these heads or did the factory length work? I have a 302 roller engine. Thanks!!!
Ive got a set of those that im planning to play around with and port just to see what I can get them to flow and mill the⁷m, I havent really looked but whats the biggest valve do u think you could squeeze in them,? Keep the vids coming with all ford content 😁🤣jk. Do ya have any cleveland heads . Looking to buy a set and maybe do a boss like 331 build . Gotta find rods and pistons for 331 first. Already have crank . If u know of any let me know. Thanks
1.940 is too big for the earliest closed chamber heads, they need to be cut down to 1.900 or 1.880. The 68 heads have a better chamber as shown, I'd take a die grinder to the spark plug boss prior to crashing my tooling into it.
I have a 351M I want .030 over for 302 Boss Pistons and I have '70 4V closed Chamber heads 351 Torker intake. I know of adapter for intake. I watched your video awhile back on the 351M. Any info or time you can give me would be great THX
