What’s your PayPal? You are a life saver!!!! I’ve been dealing with this issue for the last two years. You just save me $1,200.00 and replacement parts, recharge, and labor costs. May God bless you.
This was the fix needed for my 2000 F250 7.3. It started intermittently throwing warm air from the AC. I performed the shim-ectomy as described in this video and cleaned up some crud under the clutch face, and AC works as good as new. Thank you for this video. Great camera work and to the point explanation of the procedure. Great job.
Thank You! This completly fixed my problem i was dying of heat all summer. Have a ford f350 7.3 liter only had one washer left took it out and boom cold air 4 eva! Thank you for this video!
2003 F350 Crew Cab 6.8L 4x4 - 248,000 mi. A/C would work until I got out on the road and then it would go out. Removal of a single shim fixed this problem. The compressor is accessed underneath on the passenger side. Nothing needed to be removed to gain access to the clutch bolt. 8mm. 10 minute job. Thanks so much for the demo! Easy fix to a frustrating problem.
This ALSO WORKS on most 2nd gen Dodge trucks and cars as well. I had to do this on my 2002 Grand Caravan years ago. What a lot of folks don't know is these same compressors are used by several car manufactures, Ford, Dodge, GM etc. I was actually looking for a clutch replacement video on the 2001 F350 7.3L, as I haven't done one on my truck. I'm doing my research on doing a series on diagnosing and repairing the AC system on the 7.3L F250-F350 series trucks. Mine when out so I thought it would be a good time to do one for my subscribers. Yeah I've been a subscriber of yours for awhile, love the truck vids bro. Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thanks!! Worked perfectly on my 2000 Ford F250. I noticed that the clutch was not opening & closing when I was turning the AC on & off. I only had 1 spacer inside and I removed it. Once I did that the clutch would engage and dis-engage just fine. I've got consistent AC now. I appreciate the clear instructions and well shot video.
Worked like a charm on my 2005 f150 - had over 0.35 gap, pulled the plate off and removed last shim, buttoned it up and now i've got ice cold A/C once again. Prior to this the A/C would only run for 10-15 minutes then we'd have hot air blowing through. Saved me close to 800 bucks thinking the compressor was shot!
Great video, i had intermittent ac, was usually good at start up but would disengage after driving. Gap was .055 got it down to the .02 and been good so far.
What would cause the clutch to just let go after driving for say 15 mins. And the hotter the day The shorter The time it stays on . The charge is good . But You let it stay off for a 10min. And it will start on its own. Any ideas?
2014 Ford Fusion. A/C stopped working. Checked the compressor, had 1/4" air gap. The bolt had come out and lost. Installed new M6 metric bolt (about 3/4" long) with loc-tite. On the road again. $.53, with washer.
I have a Ford Focus 2010, my frion is full, had it checked w a machine, high is to high, and clutch won't come on. Fuses and relays are good to.. I don't know what to check next.
We did this repair and it fixed our intermittent AC problem. The AC would work fine when we were not towing. Once we hooked up our fifth wheel, especially if it was hot outside, the AC would cut out. Our AC system is original to our 2003 F350 with V10 engine. We had the clutch outer plate removed and one spacer was in place. We removed that one spacer and reinstalled the plate. That fixed our problem and the AC now works in hot or cold weather and whether towing or not.
When refrigerant is low or over charged it makes the clutch kick on and off more frequently, thus causing clutch plate to wear out faster. After adjusting the clutch get your system serviced.
If you don’t have feeler gauges you can use a spark gap coin. Or what I did was use my caliper to measure different things around my house until I found a card stock that was about 0.025” thick
I need the instructions on 2004 Ford F-150 Tritan super crew cab on removing spacers from air conditioning clutch please. You did great job on the video I saw but I think it was not the same truck I have. Thanks if you can help me out.
Brah....Much Mahalos...you saved me around $200.00 just for a new A/C Compressor not including any other crap I may have needed to replace my 2002 F350 7.3 A/C Compressor. I actually only had one washer, but it was caked with crud too. I used braqke cleaner and removed the one washer, which totally closed the gap and it all works like a champ now. Took like you said, around ten minutes... Mahalo
Dude this just happened to me! Bought a reman for m 03 Mustang GT. Started it up and it was grinding with the the ac pulley. Just added a small waster and now it's perfect
Did the max A/C mod about a month and a half ago, and was having issues with my A/C only being cold on acceleration. Just finished up doing this, removed one shim and gapped it at .015 mm and it is night and day difference. This was by far the best video explaining how to do this and well as the fastest and easiest. Appreciate the video man! Definitely got a new subscriber.
Just did this today and worked exactly as intended. Had one shim left. Removed it and the air now stays ice cold as it should. No more revving up to get the compressor to engage.
the plug for the pressure sensor on top of my compressor was loose. unplugged it, cleaned the contacts and bent them in just a little so they would make better contact and now the compressor stays on as it should.
MY MAN!!! I have owned this super duty for three years and cursed every summer since the ac never worked. Thanks to this video I am saving money on repairs and saving my sanity. Thank you!
The gap is supposed to be .030" Which is thirty thousandths of an inch. Also close to 1/32 of an inch. Like someone said. A plastic gift card measures .030"
your a life saver man! this was exactly what was wrong with my truck, only took me about 10 minutes to fix thanks to your video. I had been dealing with shotty a/c for a few months, but now it works great!
You forgot to tighten the bolt. That clutch will come flying out of there right through the radiator if you don't tighten to spec with Locktight. Guess how I know that.
Super thankful for this video... I live in Victorville California which is basically the desert and the temperature can exceed 108° f.... You are a lifesaver, super easy to do as well!
@@TruckStuff1 shoot...I liked, subscribed and shared haha this thing is a miracle. Gonna clean my evaporator next and install the heater core line mod as well. Can't wait to see even more results
Seemed to work for me on my 2000 ranger. I also found a surplus of grease behind that ac clutch plate, which I removed much of it. I removed 1 washer spacer. Thanks. Edited. I drove 1 hour yesterday and AC worked perfectly. Thanks for the video. Took me 10 minutes & 8 Mm socket!
I just installed a new clutch assembly. Im turning on the key and the ac to test the clutch and the clutch isnt engaging. What may have happened? The ac was cooling fine before the repair, but the bearing in the pulley was bad.
Great video. It literally took me less than 5 minutes. My 2002 F350 7.3 cycles on and off when the temperature gets above 80 degrees. I could see there was a very large gap so i took out one washer. Gonna take it for a test ride soon to make sure its working good. Thanks again
Cycling on and off means it’s working and is either low on freon, too cool outside to be loaded up or if you gave rear ac, that is not on, allowing freon to stack up in the line to the rear evaporator. Your clutch is probably fine as long as it gaps in the range this guy says. Mine is barely out of .020 to .030 I think so I’m not sure if there is any slip, I think no, mine just doesn’t cool like it used to at idle and hot outside, 85 or higher, aggh.
Thanks great video! A mechanic in town wanted to charge me $190 to do this. He basically told me that the compressor air gap was off and needed adjusting. At least he was honest but $190 for that... what a rip off. Thanks again
Um I'm wondering why my a/c clutch doesn't lock after I'd turned the key to on position( not starting the car) and hit A/C switch on? Clutch still pulls freely? Any help please?
brianjirish I know it's been a year. I had the same problem. But I just hold the clutch by hand and loosen the bolt. My thought was damn now I have to work harder. But it was very simple.
Thanks for the video. My 7.3 was only working intermittently. I had read about this solution, but the video really helped. I only had one spacer but with it removed I now have constant cold AC.
I did this fix on my truck and oiled up the splines on the compressor that the clutch slides on to because on occasion the compressor will disengage while cycling but then not be able to reengage until I tapped the clutch face. However, now the compressor will not cycle on and off at all like before while the AC is running. The compressor never stops running/being engaged now. Only way to get the clutch to disengage is to turn the AC off. I thought maybe the gap was too small so I put the shim back in and the same issue persisted. Anyone had this happen to them or have an idea what went wrong?
Hey, i just picked up a 2000 F-150 XLT 5.4. My AC isnt working, just blows warm air. 2 things... First, i can not find the low pressure port for the life of me.. i thought i may have found it on the canister.. but the fitting is wrong.. and second, my clutch does not engage, should i try and use this method which others seem to be thrilled by since its worked, or just go new?
***** hey man just a quick question i have a 2000 f250 5.4 and i believe my clutch plate is on the bottom of the pulley system towards the bottom of my engine. and today i hit it with a screw driver like you said in your posts and it works again. i am just double checking if you think that one is the ac compressor unit. thanks though,
What's wrong when. I turn on my AC unit but then it turns off by itself. It does like a clickin noise. It seems like it has like a lil shortage somewhere. Kuz it turns on & off by itself. Help. Thx
im sure sure whats wrong with mine (1990f150) it doesnt turn or anything and the belt that runs over begins to sqweak real loud after idolin for 2 or 3 mins and doenst stop
I have a 95 Ford explorer and this plate will engage repeatedly while it is running and my ac is off. I'll have it at idle and about every full rotation the plate engages and revs up the engine. How can I fix this?
I had my 03 6.0 dually having same issues mthe gap was way over I took the 8m bolt off and behind my clutch was only one shim took it out and put it back took. me about 5 min and now the clutch is working well no more having to tap in it to engage it
While the ac is on and running that clucth have to remain locked , cause I have an issue my truck ac is blowing hot air , and I hear the clip I guess is when engage but right after disangage so I dont know is this a problem,
I have a 99 Ford Explorer. The clutch engages once when turning the car on. Then nothing. Checked the pressure switch, fuses, relay and wiring. Do you think this would work for me?
can the pulleys lock up on the ac clutch and not allow the belt to turn and prevent the truck from starting if so can you remove the belt and put a shorter belt to siill allow the other pulleys to turn and not use the ac anymore ?
Awesome Trey. I like it, short sweet and to the point. Funny i've watched your videos on and off for years. Today I noticed that I hadn't subscribed so today I did. Keep up the fine work bro! Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya PS have a few F350 videos of my own: Hope you don't mind if I put of few of yours in my playlists. Keith
You're so lucky with the position of the compressor. At my Volvo V70 it's somewhere down, only reachable by dismantle it. And needs to pulled of with a tool.
Thanks its fixed ! 2001 7.3 PSD compressor would sometimes not engage unless tapped by a wrench....I followed this procedure plus used some engine degreaser to clean the clutch and now its working great.
