Ford Inline 6 300 Rebuild, and cam upgrade 

A talented young man

Thank you! I agree

Boomer

@@mechanicalking I'm so glad I grew up wrenching instead of growing up in the suburbs and winding up as a statue toppling snowflake.

@@Mrcos-qj3tg you sound like a little bitch

@@jamesshaw4954 ok boomer

Awesome!

That's a shame, I'm sorry to hear that,.

That's sad.... I personally think there's nothing like taking an engine or manual transmission apart and fixing it. Relieves a lot of stress doing something fun!!!

That really is too bad. By the way, I was impressed with your near perfect English. I would have thought you grew up speaking English.

@@brettb.7425 that's just because we americans speak it so badly....lol

Thank GOD we don't live in France!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yeah and sometimes those plastic ones don't even have holes for a puller

Yes it is

Good luck!

Thanks! I encourage others to do the same!

Thanks and you too!

Me too, its very unique.

Cool! Good to see other people rebuilding theirs too

Hey, would love some advice from you guys on my 300 in-line 6 that’s in my 12000lb motorhome. Follow me on Instagram @the_buffs_journey

Thanks!

Thanks!

Lol.....what are we? Twins or something?

Thanks!

Sweet and yeah do post!

Would be awesome if ford brought back a SLIGHTLY modernized 300!

I got my friend to buy one and he likes it just don't overpay

@@mechanicalking It's about $1,000 after taxes, tag, etc. I think that's a good price?

Thats a really good price my freind paid 2,400 for his and its not pretty and is a 2wd. As long as its under 200,000 miles you have a tough truck

Thanks, I appreciate the feedback.

Awesome

Thanks man

Thanks!

Awesome!

I also own a 85 granny low

Very nice

Thank you!

Thanks brother! I never lose hope in this setup

Good! To fix an oil pan leak you just need to lift the engine 6 inches by removing the 2 mount bolts. The other gaskets are easy. The rear main is an engine removal.

Thanks for the advice i think its the valve cover has only rtv no actual gasket but that helps alot

Do you see them much in England in trucks and stationary applications? A place I used to work for had a mobile air compressor powered by one. The thing was as reliable as a hammer and didn't leak a drop of oil or even burn oil.

Thanks!

Thank you!

Thats what I like to hear!

I just changed metering rods and i get 20mpg highway with 16:1 afr cruising, prob because of the ported head. 8 second 0-60 on 5,100 lbs but... 27mpg. I'm guessing it has overdrive??

Yes it is and it didn't need this but it sure got it, and thanks!

I watched your start-up video and I think you should buy a timing light so you can get it timed properly

@@mechanicalking yeah I have a timming light just wanted to see if she started. I did a compression test all cyl s test 165 psi. Now I will tear in to it clean it up set timing. Put a new carb on it. You know the drill. The green truck engine is running really good so I may never need this one. But it's back up.

Wow! Well good luck and keep the vids up because I like watching them

Yessir

Its actually the worst Ford built

@@jamesshaw4954 sorry about your crack addiction

@@niteclydn sorry you haven't done your research the 4.9 is the worst because the oil filter is mounted sideways and over night all the oil runs out of the filter back into the pan and starts dry my 95 has 120k and its knocking its ass off because of this problem my 92 with 5.0 has 127k doesn't knock at all

@@jamesshaw4954 i go by experience, I've had quite a few 300's and many with well over 100k on them, they never failed me. So your comment is invalid

no no not 2 or 3 but 3 or 6 hahaha.

Thanks!

There was no bolt sticking out at all I ended up just drilling it and tapping it because I broke all of my tap wrenches with that stupid easy out. The stock head bolts are apparently made out of a soft metal so I could get away with using a Cobalt bit from Northern Tool. But next time I have this situation in there is a bolt sticking out I will use that trick!

Cool!

Its an efi intake manifold with a block off plate and a hole in the top for the carburetor. It definetily picked up at least 50hp from the stock intake

Yes they don't build them like the 300's were built

Now im using a offenhauser this was the efi intake with a carb adapter

Almost an efi engine lol! It's an 82 block and cylinder head so it doesn't have the alignment pins for the exhaust manifolds, which kinda sucks but the pistons are efi ;)

@@mechanicalking I was wondering about some of the those things. Once I saw the upper intake with the carb, I fi you just had some of the nicer things the EFI got.

Yep

Ok

So all I have to do is take off my 84 carb and intake, and swap with an EFI intake like you did and add a 4bbl carburetor, and cap off the the other parts??

Wow that's awesome I didn't even know they made those in 1966! All I can say is please don't cut Corners with the paint and cab seals or any seals for that matter. A truck of that age would be made out of a lot better Steel than mine is, the water will still find its way in and ruin it.

WOW! Good luck! and with the porting I've done inside the cylinder and ports +dual 2 1/2" exaust, IF I had the 240 ci head to bring the compression up from 8.5/1, got a proper(expensive)distributer, and got one of those water cooled intakes (way shorter runners than mine), I could have a 16ish mpg daily driver (with these rear gears(i like them..lol)) and if tuned right could be 300+ hp. First its loud and allready fast with 180-230ish hp, and the only reason I would do all that is to make it actually sound like it has a cam. You may have the answer to this. I'm having trouble tuning it for a cool sounding idle like I see other people have. It has vacuum advance and a duraspark 2 distributer, it idles smooth. Do you think its those long ass intake runners or spark break-out or something else??

Also your engine has like 9/1 compression stock. I believe. So anotherwords.. It would be hyper as hell with boost!

Yeah

@@mechanicalking I got to many to fit on one message haha. First off, how did you mount the carb onto that intake?

@@jessegillmer8062 It's an aluminum plate. The aluminum plate has tapered holes on top for tapered screws what you can do with a regular drill bit. Those screws go down into the intake where you take out the freeze plugs and put nuts on the end of those screws. There are four threaded holes for the carburetor studs.

It is hella fast and you dont get 200 psi with 8:1 compression. Lol if I could do one thing it would be to put flat top pistons in it

The engine runs efficiently/cleanly at 200 psi. No turbo, of course. It needs positive stem seals as well, and good bronze guides. Anyway, if it runs, that's what matters.

I know right! I couldn't agree more lol. My dream for it would be 11:1 compression which would be about 210psi

The lengths should be right on rock auto. The ones that say standard.

It doesn't matter

Woow so all the sudden a cylinder hone puts off metal shavings? It's more like metal dust that is wiped off of the cylinders along with the oil every time I check them to see how far its hoaned and the crank has never been out. I just replaced the rod bearings for the fun of it and after all those 175 shots of nitrous they still looked great.

Rock auto

K

Do it. And no the timing marks line up with the Cam Kit. And I recommend buying an intake in getting a used carburetor that still works. I love these because I changed my connecting rod bearings yesterday for like $30 including the oil pan gasket.

Yes

Yes I have the offy open bore intake

As long as it had a small block in it with the small block pattern

Sure, I'd like to

Ok thank you. That makes sense and I think I messed up not getting it decked because it uses coolent alot

William Bell , the only way your gonna warp a cast iron block is by overheating it, it’s not gonna warp because it’s on an engine stand.

mechanical king, if you ever get around to pulling the head off, take a nice straight edge and check for low spots, you can do the same to the cylinder head. If you do find uneven surfaces a little trip to the machine shop will straighten thing out.

In that case. Do you think I should get my cylinder head machined if it blew out a head gasket?? Or should I just put a new one on or something

mechanical king, def have it checked by a reputable machinist in your area, and while it’s at the machine shop you can check the deck of the block yourself with a good straight edge and a feeler gauge. Also, I may have skipped passed a part or 2, but did you use new head bolts ?

Wow i didnt know this

Ok

Yes order a haynes manual. It is a book that tells you how to rebuild the whole truck. Its great. I use it every time I need information instead of reading amateur Forums on the internet. The most helpful information is to torque patterns torque specs and all the clearances for the whole engine. The part number is 36058. I just looked and there's one on eBay that ships to Germany for only $20 or 18€, may not be free shipping though. Anyway It's a great and helpful book and well worth the money! Good luck!

mechanical king thanks bro, I just ordered it. My truck runs a bit too rich and the idle speed is high. And after driving when I switch off the engine I’ve got a huuuge Backfire. I have replaced a lot but still have it. I think about replacing the carburetor too, any idea which carburetor to order? I think it’s the best idea of getting a original one?! Thanks for your help ;)

@@finnmitchell88 If you're not looking for a lot of power. An ebay 1 barrel will work. You may want to get the stock intake for that carb. It doesn't matter which one. It just has to be a 1 barrel intake. Or you could cut the stock intake. There might be clearence issues with the hood though. And if you do end up getting another intake try to match the years of carburetor and intake.

Cool thanks!

It had 3.08:1

didier banegas the recess in the top add strength to the piston and also distributes the load to the Piston instead of the cylinder walls. I do not think that those are stock Pistons, normally they have a heart-shaped recess shaped about the same as the heart in the cylinder head.

mechanical king 👍 , thanks for the reply.

other, the dish in the piston is to lower the compression ratio as the head on this engine is probably the same design as the earlier 240 inline six plus, this engine is used in industrial applicationa where it is fueled with natural gas or propane gas where the compression is much higher so they adjust the dish volume to reach the ratio required

@@jacquespoirier9071 bingo.

@@jacquespoirier9071 yeah thanks I didn't know that at the time but the (stock) 1984 dish is even bigger so compression is even lower lower

Bolted on a aluminum plate that has holes drilled for the carburetor to bolt on

You need to tear it down and get it speced before ordering. I put those bearings and rings back in to save time and money. This engine has been rebuilt once(plus this one). For a first rebuild the stock bearings normally get replaced(unless the unthinkable has happened to an engine). I was able to measure of the bore's taper out, piston clearance, and for the Ring Gap I used a feeler gauge. Take your engine to a local machine shop so they can tell you which rings to buy and if you need to buy over-sized Pistons/rings, whether you need your engine surfaces decked, whether you need your engine hot soaked, and whether your crankshaft needs to be turned and balanced. Rock-auto makes it easy for you to chose how much oversized, if any, that you need. This engine costed me $200, drove it 500 miles before wanting to waste money on goodies... I did rehone the cylinders. Also do yourself a favor and spend the extra time on buying the right seals. As far as a rebuild kit goes, Rock Auto makes it easy for you to choose those specific aftermarket specs so everything last long. Feel free to ask any questions, hope this helped and thanks for subscribing!

mechanical king It already runs good & NOT plated because it stays on the farm property only to feed the cows etc. At 195k miles I wanted something to just tinker with. Dad says no ones been inside the motor because he bought it New in 1995. Wasn’t gonna pull the motor but rather I was gonna do it in place like I’ve seen others do with other motors on RU-vid. Any thoughts?

mechanical king Aren’t the old bearings stamped size wise?

No the bearings are made out Babbitt most of the time which don't have any room really to be stamped. But if I were you I would just buy all new oem size bearings and hand polish the crank. Be careful with the cam because you really don't want to pay $300 for a cam bearing removal tool just to get those stupid things out which half the ones they sell don't even fit.

If you want this thing to last another 200,000 miles I would push to see that motor torn down and get the cylinders bored oversize. I guarantee you 100% chance that the inside of those cylinders are toast. The motor that was originally in this truck I painted and took it to the machine shop and the 50+ years of experience Machinist(friend) said the crank is out of balance the connecting rods were stretched(typical) and the block and pistons were .050 over so 2-3 rebuild.. that was a huge lesson for me I spent over 20 hours prepping that motor and Sandblasting it. The trucks odometer only goes to 99,999 so honestly we may be talking about a truck with 1-2-3-4 98,789. Are you just wanting to throw something together or are you wanting it to be reliable?

Yes they didn't have the c clamp compressor so I used the studs

@@mechanicalking That was a great idea and one that I will have to borrow from you thanks .

@@timpope1221 no problem be careful

What are you gonna do with that lawn mower blade, Carl.

Are you talking to me or tim?

Okay thanks

Im going to tech school for two years to get my welding certificates

Stop wasting time. If you haven't graduated from high school yet, go take your GED. Once you get your GED, go apply to your local community college and apply for the PELL GRANT. The PELL GRANT will pay for your Associates degree. That's TWO YEARS. Then when you get your Associates Degree, apply to the university of Illinois at Champagne Urbana. Enroll in the mechanical engineering program. Study hard...lay off the girls until AFTER you graduate with Honors at the top of your class. While enrolled at U of I, send Elon Musk letter telling him that you are enrolled in Mechanical Engineering at U of I, and that you would like to be considered for a position in his research and development department when you graduate. Set you sights high. Why would you go to a tech school as a student, when you could be teaching the class? You want to learn welding?!$%## get your pa to buy you a 250.00 dollar tig or mig welder. They come with an instruction book...

Yeah no I am going to tech and going to work my way up from there I do not need all of that too be successful right now I'm happy in high school and I'm having no problems

Accually you make a good point I may do that

268h comp cam kit and I have historic plates and the intake

@@mechanicalking You can add a GM HEI ignition module to replace the Duraspark module, it's an multispark discharge below 3000 rpm where the 300L6 basically does all it's work. The wiring diagram to replace the DS module is on the web alot of places. Get the hottest coil your system will take and open up the gap a bit over the stock. More air and fuel are coming in and you need a hotter and longer spark to take advantage of the increase.

Ok and i have 55,000 volt coil but mine raps to 7 grand

@@mechanicalking Electric fan all the way, take it for a quick rip without a fan (pull the blades not the belt, and watch the temps) and you won't want to put a fixed fan back on. I have a 96' F150 2wd with 5 spd, and 2.73's on 29's. Engine is an 85' with EFI manifolds, offy DP, Holley 390, DUI distributor and a electric fan from a 98 cavalier. Works far better then stock (aside from a finicky Holley). Good work on the build and vid, Cheers!

Okay! Where should I get the fan at??

No not usually as long as you use a thick head gasket. I didn't get it done

Good to know. Thanks for sharing.

I learned on my dads truck. It was in the first video on the channel.

I assure you there was no shavings in the engine during assembly. The hone removed less than .001 according to my bore gauge so there wasn't much to begin with. The goal was to give the rings a little better chance at sealing. If I was worried about it I would have the thing precision honed and decked and had releifs cut for valve seals. This was a quick and sloppy refresh and not nessesary an overhaul. Hope that clears things up. The truck is accually crashed. You can see it in my new video

It happened in a week but 40 carefull hours. It costed $400 but it would be over a grand if you got it correctly machined.

I ported it with my dye grinder

Summit racing and jegs

I left it in because it was not bad on the inside

6 hours of work

BigZerg Oner Haynes manual

I only use that for the torque specs though

mechanical king ah ok thanks

www.pittauto.com/default.aspx?page=customer&file=customer/piauel/customerpages/pl_ford.htm

No i talked to ams oil

Yes I did with a drill

268H comp cam