Thanks Jim, got the job done today, you not wrong about access to that bloody water pump housing! What a pain. Raising and lowering engine with the jack is the way to get it done. Turns out I had a plastic water pump (impellers) that split on the shaft resulting in it slipping so it was not rotating fast enough to drive the water through the cooling system. PLASTIC! boggles my mind why they do that. Money making scam most likely! Oh and that crankshaft pulley nut. Took some shifting! bought an electric impact gun that said it produces 500mn of torque (bollox). Good job I bought the crankshaft holding tool or I would have been stuck. The nut on my car was 30mm not 34mm like on yours. They must have changed on later ones maybe. Mines an '06. Anyway car brilliant again now, thanks mate, could not have done it without you. Many thanks.
Roy Evans thats great news! Glad to help matey, yeah always baffles me why they put the plastic ones in first! Glad its all sorted for you and gone well 👍
mine is also '06..and at high speed it overheats! I wonder if same kind of plastic impellers are inside my engine..broken, causing coolant not to spin as it should through coolin system at high speed!
Is the camshaft mark whats in that "wheel" the little "scratch"? First photo there was white marking but when new timing belt was on, there is no white marking on the "wheel"?
Mate tidy vid. Done mine today wish I never started 😂 fell at the first hurdle crank pully nut😡 managed to turn it with the old trick ratchet on the nut against the floor and flick the starter motor up. Cracked it tidy. Thinking that was the hard big I tried taking the water pump off. The rest is history 😂 I managed to pull through. And finish. Without this video I would of smashed the car up. Thanks again mate
que puedo decir es un video genial y la persona que lo hiso es muy honesto, enserio estube buscando tantos videos y este me dio la solucion para reparar mi auto, solo quiero decir muchar gracia si a usted quien realizo este video .
Hi jim great walkthrough of how it’s done, my only question is should you not lock the cams and crack off with timing pins? What’s the chances of one of them moving when refitting the new belt?
I always Lock the cams using the correct tool and Replace the cam seals too ..it takes a lil longer but at least you know you won't have to replace the belt again .
SO happy today. Just done this job. The bleeding water pump was a pain. Definitely frustrating. Helps to raise and lower the engine a few inches. My crank shaft pulley bolt was only 30mm and came off very easy ?? - HYDA 05 ST225. Can anyone explain way my timing was off by about 170" Crank shaft lined up with exhaust cam but intake cam was at 170" not 0". There were tool marks on the cam pulley star. Car has unknown history. Runs perfectly fine.
I’ve got no hot air blowing in the cabin but I’m also not overheating but my bottom hose is cold and coolant level is fine, do you think thermostat? It’s not a cracked liner as it’s runs perfect and no white smoke and I have no mayo in the oil. If I have to do the water pump I will but I’m thinking thermostat and is it an easy job? Never worked on a Volvo 5 pot before and this is my first issue since ownership.
This is a far better source of information than the Factory Workshop Manual. The crankshaft pulley bolt on the LV Focus is 30mm. The coolant drain on the LV is on the RHS (as you look at the vehicle, standing in front) and has a round RED head. I watched this as I am removing the head to fix a gasket issue ( I hope it's the gasket! :( )
I’m having a strange issue. Timing marks all meet up fine. But car is throwing fault codes p0016, crankshaft camshaft correlation and p0336 crankshaft position.. this screams timing to me. But I’ve checked and double checked. Also changed crank sensor too. Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Ive had a similar problem in the past, it most likely will be the timing if it wasnt on before, did you happen to look at where all the marks were before cambelt removal and put them back exactly the same way or did you adjust it at all so the timing marks lined up? The problem I had when that happened to me was someone else had been there previously and removed the cams sprokets to fix an oil leak but didnt put them back perfectly so although the timing marks were lined up they were not correct and i ended up having to remove the cams and align them correctly before i could get it perfect etc...
Thank you That makes perfect sense, I did ignore the previous timing. If I get my friends st. Get piston one tdc, and copy where the marks are in relation would that work you think?
@@stevens9297 Steven S no sorry, his marks might again be in a diffrent place. The only way you will be able to do it properly now is by getting an extra timing tool that fits in the back of the cylinder head theres two rubber plug seals and the tool alignes the cams (much like the renaults have) then once thats in the top will be timed put the cylinder 1 at t.d.c ,and you can also remove the cam pullys to put them in the proper place . Hope that makes sense
My friend said timing looks retarded on live data, so I took a chance and advanced the crank one tooth. starts a lot quicker now and no codes as of yet. Thanks for your help. Appreciate it. I’ve subscribed
Hi Jim, Great Video, went to do my Ford Focus ST 2.5 timing belt today my timing marks don't line up. When you line up the crank shaft marks the cam marks are advance by 1.5 teeth. Any info would be appreciated thanks Jim
ceod ceod hi there! If your 100% timed up on the crank and they are out on the cams i would be inclined to say it may have been remapped or tuned in the past to produce more power so your timing has been advanced to allow the valves to stay open longer etc... If your car was running correctly before and had plenty of power, make sure youve timed the crank up and use tipex or marker on your cams, 3 points on each cam and use tipex at 2 points on the crank and use them as your timing marks to make sure its timed up the same as before then follow the rest of the steps in the video and you will be fine 👍 hope that helps
ceod ah ok, youve got 2 choices then, mark it up with tipex first before stripping down so you can use the timing it already has and either time it up that way (if it was perfect before why change it) OR you can try line them up build it with the timing marks in place and turn it over by hand after around 10 times before trying to start it if it feels ok. If it runs like a sack of spuds you can retime to how it was before with your tipex marks... Has your car ever had any leaking camshaft oil seals changed? (common problem) because if you didnt do it yourself mabie someone has done it before and not bothered lining up the cams sprockets up properly on rebuild?.... Personally thou if it was running perfectly before then id tipex new timing marks up and retime it to those thats going to be the best thing you can do
The ones at the rear of the cylinder head ? (Gearbox end) Stab a hole in the middle of them and flick them out with a screwdriver or pull out with a hook, make sure youve got replacements before you do though 👍
THESE CRAMPED NEWER CARS! ...what a nightmare trying to get to 'once easily accessed common replacement parts'.....this is why I'm keeping my Jeep WJ G.C.... with it's INLINE STRAIGHT 6 ..... I could take a nap on either side of the engine!
Cheers for this Jim, I'm having a nightmare with mine overheating when going over 60mph, ok at town speeds, checked thermostat must be a knackered water pump but it's quiet so baffling me. I will put a new kit on see if that cures it. This makes it possible for me to do it myself, thanks mate, will get back to you on how I got on.
