I am simply after one tree species I have been fighting for years! I tried copper nails, I tried girdling and of course I tried digging them. At which point they come up 3 times stronger the next year and laugh in my face, These my friends are non native Mulberry trees! My 1/4 of an acre is soon to be a mulberry/ grape vine forest! At this point I have even tried the if you cant beat them join them philosophy. Twisting the confounded trunks and braiding the long canes, but here I am lost too as I know not what I am going! LOL If this works anbd I can afford it, I will be indebted to you Sir Forst!
Good informative, especially the time of year and when not to. I've watched another video a few years before this video and been using Arsenal diluted to 10-20% of the mixture with water and it works well, if applied at the correct times of the year. Maple has been more difficult because I've apparently applied it at either wrong time of the year or during heavy sap flow.
Thank you. Two questions : Once tree has died, can it be used as mulch or will the herbicide stay in the dry wood? Should it be composted or brought to landfill ? 2. Can something else be planted in its place, assuming there is stump grinding done . And if yes , should some time be allowed if there chemical is on the soil ? The audio was perfect , not sure where is issue .
It would be best to have the tree removed and disposed of. Yes, it is fine to plant something in its place depending on the type of chemical used. If imazapyr was used you would need to wait. Some chemicals are soil active and some are not, for example glyphosate or Roundup is not soil active. The label on the herbicide will be able to tell you.
Tree of Heaven is especially difficult to get rid of. The thing that works for me is remedy and diesel fuel as a basil bark treatment. I'm wondering if the hack and squirt method works well with Tree of Heaven, and works well enough to keeo down all the sprouts from coming up off the roots of the parent tree?
This is good information if I had time to “hack and squirt” and wait forthe tree to die. But I have mulberry trees in my neighbor’s yard growing through my chain link fence, and I need to get rid of them now. So, my question is, if I just cut them down what is the best way to kill the stumps so they do not grow back?
You can purchase stump killer at most Co-ops, home improvement, and farm and ranch stores. You can also, treat the stump with glyphosate or triclopyr. Remember to always read and follow the herbicide label.
@@jaykeen3846 It’s okay, I’ve already talked with the owner. She agrees they need to be removed. They are the result of birds on the fence. Thank you for the information. This Garlon 4, is it available at places like Lowes or Home Depot?
I'm watching on a Galaxy S8+, and the audio for this video isn't coming through. No captions available either. Weird. Audio works when I watch other videos. Oh well. Maybe it's just me.
Mrs. Anderson, Pathfinder will work to control sweetgum. You can do a direct stem application. If you would like more information, please send an email to comments@mfc.ms.gov.
A neighbor's tree puts out limbs over my driveway. Every so often I have to cut them back to the property line. Could I kill the tree by spraying this stuff on a cut-off limb stump or do you have to make a cut into the tree trunk?
@@user-ch6um1vn8x I literally can't hear anything. On mobile, maybe that's the issue. But did @CaptScrotes ever solve his weed problem is the real question.
I just drilled holes in the base of two large sweetgum trees and poured glyphosate into the holes. Hoping it kills them. I didnt have any imazapyr and didnt want to buy it unless I need to. They're the only two trees I wanna kill and cant cut them down. I've heard you can pour table salt into the holes and it will kill them. I'm gonna try that too. How long does it take to kill a large tree? They're both 12" plus in diameter
Drilling the base of a tree and pouring chemical and/or salt into the holes may not immediately kill it, but it will certainly send it into a state of decline. Where are these trees located? If these trees are in an area where they could harm people or property when they start failing, this described action will create a hazard situation (certainly with 12” diameter trees). If it is in a timbered setting, then a hack-and-squirt situation at ground level would work. We have more information on the topic if you'd like to email us at comments@mfc.ms.gov we can send you a more detailed explanation.
@@MSForestryComm thanks for the reply, they're in a safe area, on a treeline, well away from any house or structure. It's hard to tell if anything is happening other than the typical fall routine. I plan to do another treatment today actually.
Sorry if you missed hearing parts of the video. The chemicals recommended for the hack & squirt method are Imazapyr, glyphosate, and triclopyr. Please email us at comments@mfc.ms.gov if you have any further questions.
Pathfinder will work to control sweetgum. You can do a direct stem application. If you would like more information, please send an email to comments@mfc.ms.gov
Yes, it is better to make the hacks on the base of the tree. The herbicide label should specify how many hacks per inch of diameter you will need to use for that chemical. A good rule of thumb is 1 hack per two inches of diameter.
Yes, you would want to do this when the sap is flowing in the tree. In the spring after bud break is the best time, but you can also do it through the summer and early fall before the leaves starting turning and the trees go dormant for the winter.
@@janoginski5557 I see, it seems 18% glysophate isn’t very strong. What’s the most affordable product you know that will kill a small tree? Maybe I should stick to Alligare Triclopyr, recommended by this one YT video and isn’t so expensive.
Triclopyr is best but here is a good publication from MSU forestry extension that list all the possible chemicals that can be used: www.mfc.ms.gov/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/Applying-Herbicides.pdf
