Forging mild steel and 52100 high carbon steel San-mai, then making a knife out of it. Knife specs: 9.625" blade. .125" at spine, distal taper. Website: firecreekforge... This knife: firecreekforge... #chefknife #gyuto #sanmai
I'm surprised you took it that thin and didn't get any warpage in the quench or have any trouble with the high carbon steel being centered! Super tough stuff and looks like you nailed it! Awesome.
Beautiful bit of work there, like Shooting Utah said, it looked very thin at one point, but it needs to be that thin if you want that finish on a thin blade I suppose. 🇬🇧
I'm sorry, but its time to call all you bladesmiths out. You all brag about your mosaic damascus knives, but not one of you makes a mosaic damascus spoon or fork. The real elite are forging spoons and forks bro!
I've just had a go at this myself. Any tips on the bevel? Ive sanded to 800 grit before etch but not seeing much contrast between the mild steel jacket and the 15N20 core. Never used mild steel before but I've made plenty of Damascus 🤷♂️
Mild steel etches a light color, and 15N20 etches a bright color due to the nickel content so there's going to be minimal if any contrast between those. If you use a non nickel steel for the core you should see a visible contrast.
Dude thats a beautiful knife but after 20 years in a kitchen, it's a no from me. The edge has too much belly and would make cutting completely through certain objects a pain in the ass. It would probably be a great meat cutting knife though. Love your work my dude.
I'm curious about this.. not being critical just asking.. when you say mild steel what grade are you reffering to there are hundreds of them and all of them very different? Also what is the reason behind the heat treating for so long at the lower temp? Is that because of the grade of mild steel?
This is A 36, common structural steel. It has about .2 % carbon in it. The tempering you mentioned is actually for the high carbon steel in the center, that's a necessary part of the process for the edge steel, which is very different from the mild steel on the outside.
I totally get this kind of video, easier for the RU-vid algorithm. But I found you because you explain your builds. Don't try to be like Freek Wieringa or Shurap. You have your own niche. Please dont deviate. Cheers to your business.
@@FireCreekForge hey man, love the videos, if you don’t mind me asking, did you make your touch mark or have it made? I’m trying to figure out what I want mine to be and where I can get one lol
4:27 that looks amazing while hot. holy shite. gorgeous blade but that handle isn't doing the knife any justice. blades that big should always have a guard at-least.
No estoy convencido que se haya realizado bien para que se pueda ver realmemte la característica de un sanmai... No lo hizo bien... Demasiada fina la hoja... Poco desbaste... 👎
Real San mai is 3 types of Steel 1 for The edge 1 for The knife ans 1 for The surfa e Steel, not as shown Here same Steel on The sides of The edge Steel. Please dont do video again befor correkt this fake video
@@FireCreekForge I thi k i not have The same teaching as you i not make swords or knifes, i only renovate old japanese Swords, i done it only 25 tears and not have so many books and my skills in old kanji not super, but Im sure I have all The perfect Stones i use when i doing my hobby, i polish The old way swords made The old way, my lerning is San (3) mai means 3 different Steel not 2 different Steel.
@@FireCreekForge 3 peaces of tamagahane, as you know you mix tamahagane with ex rusty Iron to make The edge Steel, and mix with different other quality, to The vore Steel and only tamahagane to surfa e Steel, thats The simple st way of making a katana, normaly 5 or 7 different Steel or like The top of The top 9 different Steel in a katana as in masamunes, swords, yes maybe i think in different way,
