Got one of these babies on my workbench a.t.m., glad to see that they should be totally fine for my 1800 Watt DIY homebrew system. Mine seems to be original though as you can't lift the front cover.
As a bit of an understanding on these devices (which IMO and like you stated) the expensive ones are the way to go. Safety is paramount, buy trusted parts for dangerous operations. Inspect current regulation at the source, and make sure your device is within acceptable ranges. It's good to keep in mind that the main idea behind these SSR's is usually to throttle a heating element like on your stove top range. Most still have a relay for the oven bits and you can hear the click. But none for the element. That's because they have to switch on and off A LOT to maintain consistent heat at the element. If you did that with a relay, it would by noisy, and it would fail within a year. That's why these exist in the first place. Now that doesn't mean that you can't use them as glorified switches. I mean, it's what they are. They do allow for continuous amperage, but again, it wasn't the specific mode of operation that they were designed for. For switching, I would MASSIVELY oversize ANY SSR with a standard 120V outlet. You can't predict all the wiggly plugs that might make it to this circuit to test your design.
I bought a couple of these for a little DIY wind turbine dump load circuit, I think it should be fine for that as it's only 12v and won't be running anything over 8amps. Just figured it would be more reliable than a traditional relay. I didn't know they sold fake ones but luckily I ordered much higher tolerance than I need lol
I got one with a heat sink. I set up a computer fan to run when my longmill cnc control board is on and it blows across the ssr and the heat sink. It switches my router and shop vac. Works just fine so far.
nice - I did similar with my cross-cut mitre saw (check this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-L0E3xMoyJZ8.html ), it only runs "intermittently" as manually cutting, so no heat sink, and seems to be OK so far
Great video, very helpful. One thing more I would have liked to have seen is the amount of current it used to switch the relay on from the 9 volt battery, and if it was constant.
The datasheet states less than 7.5mA @ 12VDC input, and with input voltage of 3-32V DC, 4 to 20mA linear - but I didn't actually measure this with the units I got from ebay
I bought a 40a ac-ac ssr. The brand is jingzheng. I plan on using it for a 3kw 220v floor grinder. It will have thermal pads and mounted to the chassis with a probe and live readout of the temperature. If it fails then i will request a refund and buy a reputable one. My only worry is how it fails? What temp might it fail at? How will i know its failing? And what is the risk of electrocution?
If you were prepared to purchase a reputable SSR, probably should have done this in the first instance to be safe (if the SSR fails, could damage the connected load, ie the grinder, you will not get a refund for any damage to a connected load). SSR could fail "open" meaning can't turn-off the load with the SSR. Wouldn't recommend just relying on temperature as you will not be able to rely upon thermal specifications in datasheet - even if you know what the internal triac is (you likely will be able to "smell" the components failing !!). If you are going to use this, recommend only using it "within in sight" so you can see if problem developing (smell,/see smoke and or rapidly increasing temperature) and can "pull the plug". Here is potentially useful info (page C-345 for some external circuit additions that may be helpful in case of failure) omronfs.omron.com/en_US/ecb/products/pdf/precautions_ssr.pdf If you have any doubts don't use (I assume cheap fake) - just ask for refund straight away and go with "reputable".
If in any doubt, don't use these fakes - but see ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rgW8L2LaAlU.html for possible use cases if the $$ are worth the risk to the individual
I bought a box of DC to DC SSR -100 DD (SSM) and tried to use it as a battery isolator or switch relay for my 84v 48A ebike battery to turn off power to the e-bike controller. Input V is 3-32vdc on terminals 3 - 4 (+ and -) and that works as I tap off the battery for the 12vdc from 3 banks of the 20 banks. But once I apply the positive cable to the output side (the switch) from the battery 84v to terminal #1 and the controller positive in terminal #2 it fails instantly. Specs say 100A 5-200vdc on the output side. Not sure if tapping off the 3 banks is destroying the SSR or if I need diodes ?? I'll try a different power supply to the input voltage to see if that makes a difference.
If I understand your setup properly, having the same power supply (even though tapped off at different points in the series) as both the control voltage and "load" voltage to be switched does sound like the problem. If you have time, post the results of your testing.
Very usefull video..i want to handle 1200 watts 220 ac but for 18 hours a day straight. You think theese fake relays could handle that? Should i get a heatsink too?
I'd only use/consider these fakes in a situation/application that you/the user would be continuously monitor the situation and the equipment being powered isn't "critical/expensive", so if something went wrong ("magic" smoke coming out of SSR for example) you could disconnect etc. Heat sink best to be used in all cases. Considering the amount of usage you are planning, I'd go with SSR from a reputable source as you would be getting your money worth over planned usage time (and piece of mind)
@@FadsToObsessions i get a cheap ssr(excactly like yours). I test it with a simple lamp(no gnd). When its turn on lamp its working. But when its turn off lamp is slightly open and i get 74V(- of input with a pin or output) instead of 0.resistance of output pin on state 5Kohm, off state 40Mohm. Could this happen because of the ground? I control the cirquit whith an microprossecor
With zero volts DC on the SSR "DC inputs" (which are labelled terminal 3 and 4 on the Fotek "style" fakes) you should get zero AC volts being passed by the SSR. Check that the microprocessor is indeed placing 0V DC across the DC input terminals of the SSR. Gnd not affect getting AC voltage if DC input voltage is indeed zero. If zero DC volts on DC inputs and you still get AC voltage passed by SSR, the SSR is damaged most likely. Also, double check your wiring just in case (see here for example ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-L0E3xMoyJZ8.html - maybe try/test just with battery/switch on DC to check SSR function).
@@FadsToObsessions i did a search and found out that there is a leackage curent in ssr. When the load is very light, like the led lamp i tested, may have a result like this. But for heavier loads its practical zero. I will test it again with different load
Kaveen - I'm not clear on what you are asking, but the input voltage (across terminal 1 & 2 of the SSR) has to be AC (and between 24 to 380 VAC) and obviously varies sinusoidal, so if you are asking is the SSR "zero crossing", the datasheet does say it is suppose to be "zero cross trigger method" - although these fakes are obviously suspect at best. The SSR "input" (terminals 3 & 4) is DC voltage between 3 and 32V. If a DC voltage of between 3 and 32V is connected to terminals 3 & 4 (notice the polarity indicated on the face plate), whatever AC voltage is connected across terminals 1 & 2 will flow. Be careful not to "mix-up" the AC and DC voltages. Hope this helps.
That is not original FOTEK SSR, the original is totally refilled with resine, also the original have not plastic cover included, the SSR-PC cover is sell separatelly, that is a falsification SSR from China..!
It would be correct to be sceptical of any such components (made in China or any where else) that are "too good to be true" in terms of price. The adage "if it's too good to be true" it's often because it is not "true".
you had mentioned control signal to be 5V dc, but relay says 3-32 vDc, and also the datasheet, so I should be able to control it with a 3.3v esp32, right?
I haven't tested down to 3.3V (I'm using PIC microcontroller with 5V TTL), but you are correct should be able according to the datasheet, if you have time, would appreciate if you could reply with your results if you try this
Hello. your video is very interesting. I would like to know if it is the small 9v battery that powers the electrical devices through the ssr-40 DA relay. thank you very much
The 9V battery is only providing the CONTROL voltage (which can be from 3 to 32V DC) across pins 3 and 4, whereas, any "electrical devices" are powered by AC voltage (240V AC in this case) connected to pins 1 and 2. If the CONTROL voltage (from a battery or similar DC source) is ON, then the SSR will power the electrical devices using the AC voltage.
@@FadsToObsessions thank you. But is the ac output of the ssr-40 relay connected to a source of electricity (from the house for example) or not? in fact i would like to know if the ssr-40 relay can operate the pump without connecting the ac output of the relay to a source of electricity or it is imperative that the ac output of the relay is connected to a source of electricity. if you can give me some clarification.
@salif, the SSR-40 must be connected to a AC source of electricity (from the house for example as you say). The SSR-40 can be thought of as only a type of "switch", one that can be opened and closed by using a DC control voltage (instead of manually with your hand) which means it can be controlled by some circuit or sensor for example.
I believe the datasheet for the genuine versions state that the optoisolator incorporated is zero crossing. BUT, since these cheap "ebay" versions have to be assumed as fakes, you cannot be certain as to what actual components have been used internally.
