Fox 36 GRIP2 Beginners Guide Setup 

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😅😆🤣 12/10!

Only score is if you have fun!!!!!

I think that in most cases on modern forks, even if you remove the top cap as quickly as possible, it shouldn’t “explode off” but will release the air quickly

@@LDiazMTB please upload a video of you doing just that 🤣

Good point forgot that , I’ll try open it with air in 😆

@@markcosens1I think seth from berm peak already did that in a MTB myths video

I actually ordered 3 tokens for the fork when I ordered a token kit for the float X rear because my impression was that I would need to add tokens up front as well. Anyhow, I now got 4 tokens for the fork that I most likely never will need. Unior has a fairly inexpensive flat 32mm socket that I ordered because I did not have any 3/8" ratchets so their 1/2" was fine for me.

@@a8f235 nice find! I bought my Fox socket from Amazon. As for the spacers, even though I don't own a Norco, I used their Ride Aligned online tuning platform to get a baseline tune for my bike. It said that I only needed 1 spacer for my weight, and that's what I've run ever since. I still haven't unnecessarily bottomed out the fork, and when I do bottom it out, it's on trail features that require it.

It’s a bump stop I double them up before to make it more plush takes another 10 mm travel

I am 230 lbs geared up on a 58 lb bike, zero tokens zero compresison and a .7 float X spacer, 20% sag fork 30% shock 2 clicks from full slow fork and #4 on float X , unless your doing 30 foot jumps those setting should be to high for you

@@OtterMTBtech First impressions after my first ride is that it is firm in the first part of the travel yet very smooth once you do some bigger hits. I was expecting more of the opposite. It's also nowhere near bottoming out or any of that(probably used 70% of full travel) which it shouldn't given I do just normal trailriding and no Red Bull Hardline stuff. Rebound LSR/HSR: 8 / 4 in from fully open Compression LSC/HSC: 5 / 2 in from fully open These were the recommended settings for my bike and my weight. I'll try backing off on the compression as this seems to me to be the problem for now. I'll remove all the LSC and add 1 HSC to begin with so the rocky and bumpy trails I ride may feel a bit less harsh. EDIT: Yup, now it feels more like a plow machine so that definitely helped. Maybe just add 1 click of LSC, but other than that it felt way better.

I have now done a full bracketing procedure of both front and rear of my bike after I've now landed on the token amount. After LSR/HSR was dialed on the fork I tried playing a bit with the compression, but I see now that once the rebound is at the exact spot you personally like, that alone made me *_NOT_* like a faster compression. I have heard that you can often think you need to tweak your compression settings, when it's actually the rebound settings that is the problem, and that did actually apply to me. I had to go 1 slower on both LSR and HSR and that together with the removal of the token fixed the harshness for me. When I tried to open up the compression settings it just felt like mush to me, so I did not like it. I got LSC/HSC: 4 / 2(in from fully open) which is 1 step faster LSC than recommended which I feel helped to just break the stiction in the beginning of the travel, but I did not like adjusting anything more than that. So after one broken shock pump, 2 token kits for the shock(first one was wrong) and 3 extra tokens for the fork(because I assumed I needed them) I am now at: Fork: 0 tokens(1 stock) and recommended 20% sag and recommended rebound and compression settings besides 1 step faster LSC. Shock(Float X): Stock factory tune 0.7 tokens and recommended 30% sag and recommended rebound and compression. This tells me that the recommended settings must be pretty ok, I just did not know beforehand because I had never dived into this at all. I did not know what good was or what bad was. What can it feel like and how should it not feel like. Doing a bracketing procedure took very little time to be honest, and for me I thought first you need compression fully open while tweaking the rebound, but that just made no sense to me while I tried. After just applying recommended settings for rebound and compression, and then start the bracketing procedure, it made sense right away. All of this has also made me understand that no setup will work great for every situation, and riding style and so on, so it's always going to be a compromise no matter.

So, something is up here. The fork in video was 2022 36. Wide open compression no token. I have Z1 Ebike chassis which just has a thicker crown, not stanchions. And I’m going up to 3 tokens. Not sure what’s going on. What fork what year model travel?

@@OtterMTBtech I can get the serial, but I'm pretty sure it's a 2021 e optimized 36 fork with 160mm of travel. The stanchions are supposed to be 1mm thicker so they have to use the fox 34. I purchased it brand new, local bike shop ordered it for me.

thanks for comment, your right they fully re did their website

There is no right answer. It will feel better if you can get away with less or no tokens. Currently I’m on 38 grip 2 and have 3 tokens and 3 high speed clicks. The 36 grip 2 had zero tokens and zero high speed compression.

How come the difference between fox 38 and 36 in terms of tokens and compression? Can u do a setup video on fox 38?

@@OtterMTBtech At 8:46 the O-ring shows it had been at or was close to bottoming out. The landing a few seconds later was maybe 8 mm away. I think at least one token was in order on your 36, probably more.

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It prevents bottom outs is the simple answer , when you get more advanced it can help other areas

Don’t over think it. Hsc is bottom out control mostly if your advanced enough to use it else where this video is not relevant

Thanks glad to help .

Never

Start with the setup guide from fox

@@OtterMTBtech-No base line chart for my weight??

Pump it and measure the sag

Bro, its like chrome door handles from Autozone. FLEX. Inside the fork is what counts for sure.

@@OtterMTBtech then get the performance elite.....same guts, no gold, less money.

@onehandwashestheother The Kashima from fox is bunch of BS.....its yellow/gold anodizing. Tell you what, go to any big high dollar motor sport event and look at their suspensions....see any Kashima? nope, they will wrap the whole engine bay with gold to reflect heat but there is no Kashima to make the suspension work better. I worked in a company that did its own anodizing, I showed a fox fork to the head plater that had been working in a company that did work for NASA. He explained that the prep that is needed to do a proper Kashima coating on 6000 or 7000 alloy tubing costs about 5 times the cost of a fork . it involves A number of chemical baths to make the Alloy rough enough to pile a ton of the coating.....the stuff on a fox fork is not a real Kashima coating, it just kinda looks like it.

i agree with you

You should check out their newest lineup and have a heart attack lol Now the whole fork is just gold 😅

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Get a Grip 1 fork. It’s much easier to understand and use. My Tallboy came with a Fox 34 Grip 1 and it’s been a total joy.