Nice video. Concise and to the point not over explaining stuff to people that can't hold a hammer (and shouldn't be attempting to service their very expensive fork in the first place), and thanks for making the video showing air sleeve service.
Thanks so much for this video!! It is the one I watched when yesterday I did my first fork service, very concise and to the point and also now I finally understand what a damper service does :) Took me about 4 hours since I was triple checking everything, but next time will probably be half the time. I will add, for me the hardest part was removing the cap from the damper - it would just turn in the vice no matter how hard I clamped. I solved it by using carbon paste and in addition warming up the area of the thread to loosen the locktite.
Glad to have helped you successfully complete your first fork service! Nice work with the carbon paste/ heating - next time you could also try spraying the damper body and vice with Alcohol and clamping while still wet….
Love this vid. Gave me the confidence to give it a go. Everything worked great except when I was done the h/l compression dials would turn. I followed a Fox vid and got into the dampeelr top cap. Seems my LS shaft is seized (won’t come out). Have no clue where I went wrong or what would cause that? Went down the rabbit hole on this. Air spring regrease (torch and all) went great. Any thought?
Hi Andy, thanks for the positive feedback! I have an idea what caused your compression dials to seize - it happened to a few times in the past too. When opening the screw which holds the compression dials, you may have inadvertently cranked open the screw against the pressure of the compression needle, rather than holding the dial and opening against the pressure of your fingers. Sounds complicated, but in end effect you just overtightened (in fact over loosened 🧐) the compression needle. With a bit of luck and care you can simply crank open the needle clockwise. Will need some Force and but not too much and don’t squeeze the head too much because you can easily crush it! Hope this helps!
@@michaelherleth7848 Michael, go grateful for the response and so quickly. To clarify, I removed the retaining wire to remove the LSC coupler. Do I use the coupler with the dial (small black one) to remove the LSC needle (clockwise)? Or do I need to use a small socket on the LSC needle (clockwise)? Or, should I reinstall the LSE coupler and attempt to open the needle (clockwise)? So sorry to bug ya. Big thanks, Andy
@@mtbsuspensiontech I fixed it! I put a 4mm socket on the LSC coupler and turned it clockwise (slightest torque needed, more than my fingers could provide). Put it all back together. Smooth like hot butter. Not sure how I over turned the LSC (intially using palm on the topcap assembly during reassembly. Using 28mm socket much easier and safer). Fork is running smooth as warm butter now. Thanks for all the help and support.
Very interesting and well done video. I only have one question about the GRIP2 service: the official FOX video (like other tutorials) indicates to push the cartridge rod upwards for 3/4 of its travel in order to release the excess oil. In other videos some don't. By pushing the rod up so much, wouldn't you risk letting too much oil escape from the cartridge? However, I suppose it is used to avoid adding oil to the 40cc PTFE already included in the FOX reference table. Thank you so much! K
I agree that pushing the shaft 3/4 of the way risks removing too much oil from the cartridge. I‘d rather have a few more ml of oil in the lowers than air in the cartridge. Unlike on the spring side, the damper side stantion is open and therefore provides plenty of space for any excess oil.
Great video. Could you please tell me if the damper tool that I bought for my 2012 fox32 float would be okay for the fox 38. It’s a proper fox tool which cost a fortune and hopefully it will be the same. Many thanks👍👍👍
Great instructional video. What type of dust seal installation tool are you using? That doesn't look like a Fox model. Also, what FOX Lower Leg Removal Tool are you using? I don't see a version for the 38 Fork.
The tool I use is from Push Industries and I can highly recommend it! www.pushindustries.com/collections/suspension-oils-and-lubes/products/32mm-fork-seal-driver
@@mtbsuspensiontech Greatly appreciate the quick reply. Just found it. Any input on the lower leg damper tools? When I look at various sites none of them say they work on the 38mm fork. Kinda strange.
Sorry I missed the second part of your question - Both of the Lower Leg Removal Tools are from Fox: Spring side Part number 398-00-681 and Damper side Part number 398-00-682. Hope this helps!
Hi, before remove compression (and rebound) adjusters, i have to fully close or fully open them? Can't find this info, maybe it doesn't matter? Thank you for the answer!
@@mtbsuspensiontech I would greatly appreciate a GRIP2 VVC damper rebuild video. I have the photos and write up, but a detailed video would be fantastic.
I have Fox 5wt oil that I've used on older Fox forks. It is not PTFE infused though. Can I still use it or do I need new PTFE infused oil instead? Thanks.
A little oil, whether Float Fluid or 20WT Gold, helps keep the air piston moving smoothly. 3ml is plenty - remember that it will gradually wander past the seal and end up in the negative air chamber, so more is not better.
This depends on the size of the fork (27.5 /29) and also on the amount of travel. Best to just fill up as much as possible until it starts to seep out of the bleed hole on the side of the cartridge.
Your choice ... If you follow the instructions actually its not sooo hard to make a full service and you can ride your expensive fork for many many years!
I recommend pausing as you go along if it’s too fast. I purposely kept it short and concise so as not to bore those viewers with more experience/ knowledge of the process.
The airshaft should be disaasembled and cleaned. Than greased. The damper should dissaseble fully and cleaned. Changing the seals. Checking the shims for deflection damage. The bleeding is so inncorect. It ahould be machine bleeded after the procedure u have performed. No bad feelings. 🙏
I made a separate video for the airshaft - check it out. As for completely disassembling the Grip cartridge: I would only do this if you have symptoms consistent with a poor performing damper. In the same way your car mechanic won't do a full engine teardown when you go for your service. Oil change - yes. More work than necessary - no. There is nothing incorrect about this method of bleeding. Bleeding a Grip cartridge with a vacuum pump is in fact impossible - it is not a sealed unit capable of holding any signifanct pressure or vacuum (note the big hole on the side). Thanks for your comments nonetheless, I like to be tested ;-)
@@mtbsuspensiontech I disagree- pacing was perfect. I've watched tutorials from other creators that would've taken 35 min to get the same info across. Appreciate a nice concise video with no filler!
