I’ve been using my “FPP Heat Helper” for so many things since I got it. I’ve dyed a shirt, cooked meat, and of course developed film. It’s been a good unit.
I don't have experience from this particular kit, but these "simplified home kits" are all based on Tetenal's press kit from the 1980's. They have some flaws. The blix is the weakest point, and it sometimes fails. There is a problem of silver retaining. This is because the conditioner is omitted. Also, the chemical used for reversal in combined color developer and reversal bath is highly toxic. This particular kit seems to be missing stabilizer altogether. Unlike in modern C-41 film. this is still required. In standard process, this is done by conditioner reacting with bleach. Tetenal's kits had a formalin based stabilizer/final rinse for this purpose. Stickt to the standard 6 bath E-9, if you can. Keeping any oarticular temperature when mixing liquid chemistry is not necessary, providing it is not boiling or ice cold water you are using. For powders, it is different, because they need to dissolve. DO NOT HOLD YOUR TANK ON THE TABLE, BUT PUT IT IN THE WATER BATH IN BETWEEN AGITATIONS!. Otherwise you have no control of the temperature, and your slides will be too dark. Most color films should be agitated quite aggressively. That is because the process is meant for machines with constant agitation. You won-t get any marks between the sprocket holes as you will with black & white film.
I've been developing E6 film for decades. One advantage is that you can push the film to higher ISOs. I took my cameras to concerts to capture the performances, Kiss, ELO, Black Sabbath Grand Funk Railroad are among my "pushed" films.
