Where the interior partitions meet the exterior walls, I make sure there is no 2x6 exterior stud behind the 2x4 interior wall stud and I install 7” wide rips of Advantec in that location centered on the 2x4 stud vertical with the 2x4 and that gives 3/4 depth to screw drywall to, 1 1/2” of nailer as usual, and more space for insulation. It’s important to leave out that end 2x4 stud and let the vapor retarder carry through over the Advantec nailer then install that last 2x4 afterwards. Corners are done the same way with Advantec instead of a stud. I’m in New England. On the windows I just add 1/2” to the RO and put a clapboard on the framed sill before it gets flashed. I like Siga Fentrim for that exterior seal at the sill. They made it the perfect color, if it’s low anywhere blends right into the foundation. Great video.
From what I understand the plys in LVLs are oriented in the same direction vs plywood where the plys alternate direction making LVLs stronger in that orientation but a little less dimensionally stable than plywood. I would assume LSLs and OSB work the same way but I would like to know.
At minute 2:15 you show the framing around the window with short cripples below the window sill with wall studs above them. I would think that by inserting the window sill between the upper studs and lower cripples it would create a "hinge point" in the wall. Why not run the wall studs all the way down to the bottom plate and put separate window sills between the studs? Wouldn't that create a stronger wall?
