I’ve always seen panoramic shooting style recommended and after your demo it makes COMPLETE sense as to why you shouldn’t shoot that way. Thanks you so much for this amazing video!
Another note; William is completely correct about rolling shutter when it comes to taking handheld shots, but if you're trying to get the absolute best results (especially in low light) and using a tripod you may actually want to consider using the electronic shutter as it will remove any camera shake that results from the movement of the mechanical shutter.
JPEG's compression is also designed around what the human eye can see, and throws away image data that most people wouldn't notice. However, just because humans looking at it won't notice it doesn't mean it's not useful data for a computer, so make sure you're keeping things as lossless as possible (tiff, png, etc.).
Amazing video! Thank you for that! I totally agree on the hardware part. As a hobbyist, I am very happy with my Fuji X-M1 with a native cheap lens (16-50): 600$ and 8 years on the making.
Hi William! You´re content is so good, always straight on and on point! It would be really useful and interesting the learn more of how to scan and perhaps even clean-up/retopo a manufactured item. Something perfectly smooth and clean surfaces, like a gun, camerabody or something else that is made to be a perfect product. It would just be awesome! I'd even pay you for it.
Very interesting as usual. Many tips on things we learn with experience and by doing some mistakes. I didn't know about this side of electronic shutter, glad I don't use it! I'm surprised about advice to avoid video though, but as you said it's true it's bad in most cases. 4K videos are just crappy 8MP frames but 5K videos are 25mp which can be great for too complex objects, with some downsides of course. About prime lenses personnaly I really don't like them, for outdoor photogrammetry I mostly use a decent sony 24-240mm as I need this to shoot what I find in my way. You really don't want to lose time on these overcast turning to rainy days 😂 but I should compare with my prime lens to see how different it is. I guess it's not so easy to get this experience fast when hardware is so expensive...
Love it. Easy to forget these things. I am tempted to try to shoot a video with the Komodo and see how it performs. Global shutter will eliminate the wobble and 6k red raw might work. Would be a fun experiment :)
Interesting point of view, William. Personnaly, i use very differents cameras sony : 1) Sony A7r3 adn Sony Rx10m4. The first one is a full frame. I use like you with prime lens. my second camera Sony Rx10m4 has a 1" format sensor and a zeiss zoom. In the same conditions, i have better results in the most way with my Rx10m4. Why ? Because DOF. the smaller sensor of the Rx10m4 has a better DOF that with my Sony A7r3. And i made hundred of scans. I cant use tripod for my scans because it is forbidden in museums. Maybe with a tripod and a more longer exposure, i could have better result with the Sony A7. In museum, light is very bad the most often. I must adapt with that. And people around you is not an advantage :). But i make pretty good scans of the greats statues or paints of the world.
I'm a 40 year veteran portrait photographer. That sure as hell doesn't make me any kind of expert. I'm only concerned about your reference to the 35mm focal length prime lens as opposed to a longer focal length Lens for 3D Scans. Is it just a preference or is there a technical advantage to 35mm as opposed to a longer focal length lens like an 85mm Lens for this purpose? I shoot mostly portraits with the 85mm and I'm not distorting the face of the subject as would a 35mm lens might if I were too close. I'm also aware that we can correct Lens distortion with most good photo editors.
I was wondering, say you take pictures of the same bird. But you had to do it certain days. Could you use photoshop to remove background? What about invert a pic to get other side of object? The ultra 23 phone camera can do that with 200mp
hey, Great Video! one question : what do you think about the shutter life of a camera when using in photogrammetry? since photo scans require a lot of photos to be taken.
just watched youtube video about AESUB blue, some kind of pray that acts first like chalk-spray but evaporates over time (4hours or so). but one can costs about 40$ so it's not inexpensive. i'm looking forward to what solutions you will come up with!
Any advice on DOF? Even at f/10 I'm having issues as the subject is only a few inches big. The only thing I can come up with is shooting farther away and then cropping in? Thanks!
Focus stacking is the only solution aside from moving further back! I wouldn't crop though, because that will affect the distortion correction RC does under the hood.
Maybe Nikon D3200 used. It's the oldest camera in their D3xxx series that has 24 megapixels, and it's old enough that used is very cheap. Pair with a Nikkor 35 f/1.8 used which can be had cheap from KEH, it's a high quality lightweight prime. Together, the cost is maybe $300. New DSLR in this series (with lens) is like 650-700.
Such amazing info! Im having a difficult time understanding why panning cam to get different angles is not good (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-p3VG4Z6LhB0.html ). I can understand it's kind of useless on the first "onion layer" but figured the closer you get, the better that would be. (especially if rotated at nodal point). If you have a cam on a pole up high .. you cant use this technique? What is best way to manage high shots?
