For those viewers adjusting this bypass, there are a few ways shown on RU-vid on how to adjust this. The service manual actually shows a 1-1.5mm preload on the stop screw. This is to prevent the boost end of the actuator circuit from smashing the butterfly actuator plate into the housing. The screw should be contacting the lever. Just grabbing the diaphram and twisting the can isn't the proper way to trim this out and can actually cause damage over time due to the butterfly biting into the aluminum housing. A little disassembly and careful adjustments will provide the desired result while minimizing the chance of damage. I did mine by removing the throttle body and using my finger to feel the position of the actuator plate, I can feel that the butterfly plate is fully closed and by visual see where to adjust the diaphram so that the actuator rod is in proper alignment and not cocked. I then tightened the hold down bolts. After the bolts were torqued, I adjusted the stop screw just until I saw the lever move, basically no preload....yea I know, not what the manual says, but if you did the 1-1.5mm preload, you would see the actuator plate slightly open which is what we're trying to eliminate right? Hope this helps. Please subscribe to Andy's channel if you haven't already, he has great content!
I bought my ex-wife a 2015 ZL1 in hawaii cuz thats where we are from but now live in the states. I always had a check engine light. Never thought to much about till we moved to the states a few months after purchase. It had an after market intake, put it on the dyno to see what was wrong some reason the aftermarket intake system was throwing the code. So me and the turner decided to go back to the stock air filter intake. Than finally the light went away and gave me an even 525hp 525trq, i just did a routine maintenance of oil because even in 2022 it just made over 36k and yes 36k. Bone stock, oh and its an auto 6spd cuz she cant drive manual the car was for her anyways its her dream car mahalo and aloha 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
good job man keep it up your channel will grow much further considering you actually do multiple car builds that you don't own, but you do all the work on
HeadGames motorworks in NJ does the best porting around hands down....worth checking out if you are gonna keep porting blowers and stuff. I personally wouldnt touch the heads cause the port is already huge and they seem to run out of blower much before the heads are at their limit. I respect your positive energy and the want to get your business grown!! keep up the good work
Was that 81 south by chance.. PA is beautiful. Family moved there when I was 14.. think about PA daily Cold Spring Creek trail up past Fort Indian town Gap.. great fishing
it won't hurt the engine but...how about the argument that the reason there's a gap is the hardened flap will eat into the soft aluminum and eventually have a crazy leak that you can't then tighten up again?
You must have a freak ZL1, I work at a performance shop in Arizona and work on nothing but ZL1s, Camaros , Corvettes, CTS-Vs. I have never seen a ZL1 dyno that high ever stock. Either that or the numbers were being fluffed since I didn’t see SAE on it.
Ok idk why but the volume on this vid is stuck all the way up, I try to turn it down and the volume thing pops up and says its on silent but it doesn't change the actual sound idk
Oh just saw u said air fuel was as little leaner! So I guess my question is, is this safe to run on in this fashion being a bit leaner? Would you suggest doing this if I did not get a tune??
Andy, if I were to do this bypass valve mod and a Roto-Fab Cold Air intake (CAI) at the same time, would the lean condition from the bypass valve mod be balanced out by the additional air from the CAI mod?
QUOTING " Harry Houdini," My professional life has been a constant record of disillusion, and many things that seem wonderful to most men are the every-day commonplaces of my business. > Boss Man, you are 100% AlaKazam
