Hi, I am using the dealers electronic workshop manual and it gives 200nm for the pinion nut, below is a copy and paste of the section below, it's for the 2012 - 2014 FREELANDER 2 - LR2 - VIN: xxx201 onwards (RHD) 8. Install and new pinion shaft nut. Using the special tool tighten the pinion shaft nut to 200 Nm (147 lb.ft). Renew Part: Differential pinion shaft nut Quantity: 1. 9. WARNING: High torque application. CAUTIONS: The special tool should be turned counter clockwise to install the pinion shaft nut. Do not use air tools to install the nut. Failure to follow this instruction may result in damage to the component. The pinion shaft should be rotated through two full revolutions by hand before the torque measurement is performed. Make sure the specified torque to rotate the pinion shaft is not exceeded. If excess preload is applied to the joint the pinion shaft should be removed and a new collapsible spacer, pinion shaft tail bearing, pinion shaft tail bearing cup and pinion nut must be installed. NOTES: Keep checking that the pinion rotates freely during this procedure. Follow the animation to make sure the drive pinion front bearing is installed correctly. Freelander has done over 25,000 miles since fitting the new bearings in the diff and still runs very smooth and silent. Regards, Brian.
I did this job on my Volvo S60. Unfortunately, it was over a year ago and I did not have benefit of this video at that time. I found the hardest part was getting the new races to seat in the housing. I tried to get them to seat like you did, but only succeeded in getting them jammed into the housing cock-eyed and ended up scoring the housing once I remove the race. I was lucky that I could sand the scored area mostly smooth and try again. Then, I found that if I froze the race in the freezer overnight, and heated the housing with a propane torch, the race would drop right into place with no need for any additional force.
Hi, you are correct, looks like thats general engineering practice for fitting bearings to get the maximum clearance as it was hard to see that deep into the casing for the pinion bearing outer races. Anyway the old girl is still going strong with no diff or bearing noises. Regards, Brian.
Using the long tube on the Torque wrench gives an inaccurate reading - though in the case here it is not so bad as the 200nm is the beginning measurement to start the crush on the spacer - the actual final measurement should be the rotational preload on the pinion . Just be aware that any extension of the handle of a torque wrench will give an inaccurate reading .
When l ordered the kit l had to quote my registration number as they said there is a difference between early and later years, however l also looked at getting a service exchange differential and was told all the series 2 were the same, so conflicting info.
Hi, l bought the special tool as the 41mm just holds the nut stationary and it’s the input spline you undo. I re-sold the special tool on eBay, as hopefully l won’t ever need to do the job again.
@@asifkadodia3822 The outer races of diff carrier bearings only have a very small lip to get behind, after l removed the oil seals l could only get in with an 8mm drift on an angle, however l did heat the aluminium around the bearing first with a gas blowtorch to expand it it a tad, then just keep tapping either side with the drift and walk them out. It’s a bit crude but they came out fine. Regards, Brian
@TheCADengineer Thanks for all your help. I was able to put a new bearing based on the part # you gave me and replaced the race as well. I appreciate it 🙏
Yes, just undo the ring of bolts on the cover and the cover can be removed, the outer bearing and seal are in the outer cover and don’t need to be touched. If you have already removed the whole diff from the car you can now just lift out the crown wheel assembly which will make it very easy to clean out the inside of the casing, if the diff is still in the car you will have to remove the other drive shaft if you want to remove the crown wheel assembly. There is a big O ring in the cover for the seal, l reused mine by taking it of the grove, cleaning it and the faces, then putting it back with a light smear of grease.
Thanks from Down under mate legend, as I had a sump plug machined in but looks like they got a bit of swarf in there so want to open it up and get it all out before it goes on the car. Do you know what torque to do the ring of bolts up to. It's an upgraded diff imported from the UK so want to get all of the swarf out. Also just wondering on getting both rear drive shafts out and back in do they just pull out if you swing the hub carrier outwards? I've heard there's a clip on the end of the CV joint. There are now good step by step videos of a diff removal unfortunately Thanks again mate @@TheCADengineer
Hi Bernard, I am in Sydney at the moment and have just bought a 2006 Toyota Hiace campervan which I will be picking it up this morning for a 7 month road trip. However I have the workshop manual on my laptop, the torque for the 7 cover plate bolts are 29nm. The inner pot joints on the rear diff just have the conventional snap in clips, one side is easy to remove as you can get a lever behind it and give it a jolt, the other side has nothing to lever against so I bent some 8mm stud iron (threaded bar) into a U shape and made a piece of flat bar with 2 holes drilled in it to go over the stud iron, then bolted around the pot joint so I could lever against it. You could do the same with a large exhaust clamp if you can get one the same as the outside diameter of the pot joint. Good luck with your Freelander, Regards, Brian.
Hi Bernard, I am in Sydney at the moment and have just bought a 2006 Toyota Hiace campervan which I will be picking it up this morning for a 7 month road trip. However I have the workshop manual on my laptop, the torque for the 7 cover plate bolts are 29nm. The inner pot joints on the rear diff just have the conventional snap in clips, one side is easy to remove as you can get a lever behind it and give it a jolt, the other side has nothing to lever against so I bent some 8mm stud iron (threaded bar) into a U shape and made a piece of flat bar with 2 holes drilled in it to go over the stud iron, then bolted around the pot joint so I could lever against it. You could do the same with a large exhaust clamp if you can get one the same as the outside diameter of the pot joint. Good luck with your Freelander, Regards, Brian.
Hope you enjoying Australia if you coming though South Australia let me know I'll catch up with you for a coffee you videos have helped me quite a bit @@TheGreyNomads-dr8jw
Hello again, I have torqued the 41mm nut on the pinion shaft with the crush sleeve in between and it still feels like it has play forward and back on the pinion shaft. Is this how yours was?
After torquing the pinion shaft up you can feel a drag/resistance of a slight preload but no play on the pinion bearings. however when built up mine up l had very slight play/backlash between the pinion gear and crown wheel.
@@TheCADengineer i must need to crush the sleeve more, 200nm leaves to much play. I took it back apart and compared the crush sleeve and the original is 1.172, and the one I put in and torqued down to 200nm is 1.200, so that sleeve isn't crushed enough to take the play out.
Great video Brian. Where did you source your bearings and seals from? Did you buy them as a kit or source them individually by their part numbers from a bearing specialist?
Hi Ed, The bearing and seal kit was from NCA Motors (ncamotors.com/) and the kit number was DA7529. The 4 bearings were high quality, Timken for the diff carrier and the large pinion bearings and SKF for the smaller outer pinion bearing, plus the 3 seals, collapsible spacer and locknut. The kit was something like £150, give them your reg and VIN as there are some variations. They also sell the Haldex service kit and oil (again there are a couple of different versions) Please note that I have no affiliation to them, but very happy with the quality and price. Good luck if you are doing the repair yourself, as it's not for the faint hearted. Regards, Brian.
@@TheCADengineer Thank you kindly for that. I'm not of faint hearted disposition, just need a quiet time to set about it. Last challenge was rebuilding a VMax 1200 engine with it's 60 deg offset cam timing, which is interesting to say the least. All the best and thank you once again. Ed.
I originally went to our local independent LR guy, but even they don’t repair diffs or gearboxes any more, they just fit service exchange units. It was a tad too expensive plus l had the tools (apart from the pinion nut and spline tool) that’s why l did it myself. I mainly only work on classic motorcycles, BSA and Triumphs are my specialty. However if you are local to Truro you are welcome to borrow the pinion nut removal tool.
@@TheCADengineer I have a Volvo XC90 and believe the internals are exactly the same. I have fitted multiple second hand units and the same noise occurs. My XC90 is a V8 and modified. Lots of weight and speed is not good for these small units.
