It took using French cleats for a while to figure out what didn't work. After redoing my cleats 3 times, I found a system that works for me. I hope it works as well for you.
One of the best French cleat for dummies videos I’ve ever seen. Came across it thinking about taking down pegboard and this is the only video people need to do it themselves.
Some of the best tips and tricks for locking in ez. Best tips for holding multiple tools using existing packaging and planning ahead. Just fantastic. I’m excited about making some cleats!
That locking 3/4 block is a brilliant idea I’m doing a cleat system myself always after some ideas to improve this system, cheers mate from Australia 🇦🇺
Great video. Also, good tip using the 3/4" spacer above the cleat to prevent it being lifted off the wall cleat. Cheers from Sunny Coast of Qld Australia.
6:59 / 8:10 - ooh, I'm glad I heard you say this before I finished spacing out my cleats... I might just switch to this. Will at the very least ponder it. Thanks!
@@ShopRamblings glad to hear it. I'm not at all surprised that it works well... I've just seen some other solutions that are much much simpler that I think would also work fairly well, and be sufficient for most cases. Still nice to know of this option!
Ugh so glad I can now stop watching every video on the latest 3D-printed, 4-axis, cam-locking French cleat securing mechanism. Every one of those seems like a solution in search of a problem. Little bit of thought in how you put up the cleats makes it so much simpler and elegant. And now I have a good excuse for my tendency to hoard every tiny scrap of 3/4in plywood in my shop (win-win)... Great video!
The difference is I am not a youtuber trying to find something to make a video on. I work in my shop and make videos on thing I use. I have built several difference systems for hanging tools and this is the best one I have figured out. There only a few modules that I have to lock in.
A little thought when spacing and you have a better locking system that any I could find for no additional cost. It is not often you find something that works that doesn't cost anything.
I like to do both. I have some tool holders made out of hardwoods and look great. I just 3d printed a holder for numbered screw tools. I was able to have 5 rows of holes that are all labeled. Basically I prefer wood holders but some just seem a lot easier to print. I sometimes print with wood filament. My bit holders hold 50 bits each. I have 4 so that would have been 200 holes. Once I had it designed it take 90 seconds to set the machine up had hit print. When I get home from work the finished holder is sitting there.
When I seen everyone doing them I thought it was a great idea. The videos I seen didn't give actual dimensions. I redid mine a couple of time until I found what works perfect. I have since cut several thousand feet of cleats and they have worked perfect. It is nice when you find a system that works so good.
This was great! Just getting started and I bought a house with my first ever garage. There are several cabinets in there but it's already a mess and I was looking at options for organizing. This system looks great and you made everything seem like a breeze.
When I built my shop I put in a 20' x 2' work bench with two shelf. They got piled up so you could not tell what was on them. I then add 3 rows of 12' cabinets. Again it was hard to find what I was looking for. Now with the cleats everything is where I can see it. Then at the end of the day, since everything has a place I can clean up in just a few minutes. It is crazy at how much quicker it is. Now my shop stays cleaner and I can find what I am looking for fast so I have more time actually building things and I am able to build faster. It just take a lot of time building holders for each tool. I try to build at least one every week.
I just bought a house and it had a weird work bench he left but it had a ton of holes drilled in it. I googled what it was, found out what they were for and that they were for woodworking. Fell down a rabbit hole and now I’m a new woodworker. Lol😂
Let me know if there is anything I can help with. There are tons of people just like you, so if you have a question, I will try to answer it and it might help more people than just you.
Well thought out holders are great. Most of mine are quick and easy with what I have laying around. Then, if that gives me problems, I know how to better make the next one.
Great video. You have some good comments that are not found in other similar videos. Liked and Subscribed! You mentioned 3D files for the bits... I have a new 3D printer (not sure how to use it yet) but would like to experiment on your bit holder if you would be kind enough to send the file.
For most of mine, I use imported birch. I can get it for around $30 a sheet. This was at my buddies shop. We had found a deal on some Sumamma plywood. We bought a bundle. I wish we would have bought more as we can't find it anymore.
Rather than monkeying around trying to cut the 45° mitres, and making a bunch of trial cuts, there is a formula that gives you the exact setting for your fence for two perfectly equal pieces. Here it is...Divide the width of the board by two. in this case 5 7/8"/ 2 = 2 15/16". Now subtract half the thickness of the board 2 15/16 - 3/8 = 2 9/16. Now subtract the kerf of the blade. For most cases this will be 1/8", but on thin kerf blades they range from 1/16" to 3/32". We'll use 1/8" for this example. So the final number is 2 9/16 - 1/8 = 2 7/16".
I had said a quick and easy way. The way I showed would make every cleat the same. Trying to make them with one cut, they are all not going to be exactly the same. I have cut hundreds of cleats with no issues.
@@ShopRamblings I wasn't criticizing your method, I just wanted to point out that you don't need to guess and make, possibly many test cuts to obtain an exact same sized cleat. Please accept my apologies if it came across as a criticism, that wasn't my intent!
It is all good. Having discussion makes me a better woodworker. The "monkeying" you are talking about was not to figure out how wide to make the cleats. It was to make sure my fence was set properly. It can be difficult getting the fence set when cutting on an angle especially when measuring to the top of board. That would have to be done regardless of what the measurement was. After cutting hundreds of cleats I found cutting two 3"' cleat out of a 5 7/8" board works out the easiest for me.
Thank you so much for all these videos I am inspired to take on my workshop. I'm so grateful you're so generous with all the content. What 3 printer would you recommend? And what kind of material for feeding the printer head? I going to make the investment. Thanks Logan from CO. (Richard is an alias fun when I was young and too dumb.)
A couple of things Thanks for the comment. Comments like this have given me the motivation to up my game. I haven't posted much in the last month because I completely emptied my shop. Added more cleats and painted the walls. As I am putting the tools back in, I am trying to organize better and keep the clutter down. I have already thrown out 3 large trash bins of things I have been keeping but don't need. I have also bought all new camera gear. All videos before have been shot on my phone. If people like you are going to watch, I want to make it worth your time. As far as 3d printers goes. There is a wide range of quality and price. If you have seen my tools, you know I like the best value. The cheapest that works well. I started with an Ender3 v2. I had to do several modifications to it. It then worked great. My Dad called about a month ago wanting to get a printer. Watching reviews and with my experience, the best value I found was the Ender 3 s1 plus. It had most of the upgrades I had done to the v2. The difference is buying the s1 over the v2 is it come already put together. You open the box and screw in 4 screws. I bought one so me and my dad and have the same printer since i was going to be his tech support. My Dad is 73. It has taken several phone calls, but he has now got his running successfully. The plus model can make larger prints. Here is an Amazon link amzn.to/3OUuPnX Again, I hate to spend money, and the best value is to buy a refurbished. This I a division for Creality that gets all the Amazon returns. I lot of people can't figure them out and send the back in the 30 day returns window. I paid $336 for mine. Their price seams to fluctuate. comgrow.com/?sca_ref=2845652.rjOPdVBMNE As far as filament, PLA is the easiest to print, is strong, comes in any color, and can be found cheap. It has a lower melt temp, so here in Florida if you leave a printed object in your car, it can get soft. I have never had a problem with it in my shop. I have found deals for under $10 a kg.
Well, I have a dust collector. I also have an air filter. That keeps most of the dust down. Then, at the end of the day, I have the Ridgid workbench blower. I blow off my lights, ceiling fans, and tools. When I come in the next morning, I turn on my floor sweep. A quick sweep, and I am ready to get back to work. For me, to be able to see my tools and quickly grab what I need to increase production is more important to me than a little dust on my tools.
I saw that you had to double cut one of the cleats. That makes waste. There is a formula that you can use to make one cut that makes even clear and no waste. Plywood is too expensive to have waste. You could’ve had two extra cleats.
You are almost right, I double cut 8 of the cleats for every sheet, not one. That way, they are exactly the same as the rest. The first thing is said , " This is an easy way to make cleats exactly the same." That way, all spacing is uniform. Help me understand how I could get 2 more cleats. The formula is (( Cleat width x 2)+(blade kerf ² + blade kerf²=x²))-material thickness=size of board to cut once. Using what most people will get from a box store, let use 23/32 plywood. I am using a full kerf blade, 1/8". I also use 3" cleats. So I get ((3x2)+(0.125² + 0.125²= x²)) - 0.71= (6+(0.0156 + 0.156= x²)) - 0.71= (6+0.17) - 0.71 = 5.46". So I need to cut boards 5.46" to make one cut at 45⁰ and get two 3" cleats. It will take 7 cuts to get 8 pieces out of 48". So (5.46×8)+(kerf×8)= 43.68+(0.125×7)= 43.68+0.875=44.55" That would leave 3.44". I don't see how I could get 2 more 3" cleats out of that. If my math is wrong, let me know. My format may be off as it was 1986 when I took geometry, but the numbers seem to add up. However, I make mistakes every day, and it may be one. Even though I know how to calculate to only make one cut without a cabinet saw it is difficult to make accurate 5.46" cuts off a sheet of plywood wood. If every cut was perfect, I could get 17 cleats instead of 16. I believe that average woodworkers would end up with less than 16 perfect cut cleats than the way I do it. It is much easier to be accurate cutting a 2' board than a 4' board. I have recently cut 1024' of cleats quickly with no issues, but I learn new and better ways to do things all the time. Thanks for keeping me on my toes.
That’s what I get for not proof reading. I left out the word ‘each’ but that’s on me. Overall great video and will be watching all your future vids. Keep ‘em coming.
