Fret Leveling zoomed in - CNC precision in the palm of your hand 

Thank you very much!

That is called fall off. The heel often has that ski jump... so if FretMaestro was at setting 4 for all the frets, then go to setting 5 for the last 3 or 4 frets, you know, the ones no one play, snd knock off an additional .003" to mitigate the ski jump.

I recommend using a belt sander eraser and to clean often, especially the 300 grit, like every 3 or 4 strokes, as in 2 up and 2 down, and wipe out the loose debris.

Johnsons wax Paste. Yellow can. If you can find it

The body is a long life reinforced industrial resin having mild bearing properties so it will abrade the guitar. The files are steel and the diamonds are plated in, not glued. Proper use for a very long service life. And like all other tools, improper use shortens the life.

If there was one or 2 frets then a fret rocker would be used. And then use the Maestro gauge to identify which FretMaestro setting to use. But using a Fret Rocker to map all of the frets is actually a terrible idea because the readings will walk up and down high and low as you go from one fret to the next. Think about it... you are using high and low frets each step... I put this on CAD to simulate the results... and no, I would never do it, the results for mapping using a rocker are wildly erratic. I know that a respected source says otherwise. And who am I to argue... on the other hand, numbers don't lie, and the numbers I get from laying that method out in CAD say, don't do it.

Oh ....you answered that...thanks!

Yes I did... and now the ANY 4 Set is on Reverb reverb.com/item/78054296-fret-level-file-fretmaestro-any-4-ideal-for-compound-radius-frets

tnx! @@SixStringers

reverb.com/shop/guitar-picks-sixstringers-wild-plectrums

Yes, a perfectly flat neck for using a sanding beam is the trick... requires a lot of time and patience, not just a turn of the truss rod. The wood has to settle in to the truss adjustment, each bit of the way. And then back again afterward so that the guitar stabilizes to stay in tune.

I would if it were me... Conical Fretboard, (not compound radius, no such thing) use 12 + 14 + 16... measure the neck from the Nut (not from the tuner side, from the fretboard side, to the soundboard side of the last fret. Divide by 3... tape between frets as you would do anyways for a fret level, and mark the tape where the fret radius change is made, using an arrow and the radius number to indicate the correct fret so I did not mistakenly file the other other wrong.

Thanks so much I’ll be ordering some!

I did, on the Acoustic guitar... it's a no brainer.

They will begin on Reverb later today and over the next few days get them all posted. Which radius are you looking for? reverb.com/shop/guitar-picks-sixstringers-wild-plectrums

@@SixStringers dunno. Would a low, say 16" work on a higher radius?

You know, if you want a flatter fret you can do it, and better than if with a straight files. But know that a softer radius, meaning flatter, so say a 16 on a 15 or 17 fretboard, pretty darn safe, but a 16 on 11.5" fretboard you really need to watch the center of the fret and when the Maestro bottoms out there you finish super level on your stroke, this requires skill and patience. It is not something I would do, but I would not be afraid to do it if that were what I really wanted. Different strokes for different folks. FretMaestro is engineered for precision for specific Fret radiuses, there is some latitude, for example I would not hesitate to use an 11.5 FretMaestro for an 11.25 radius fretboard. But there are 11 FretMaestro Radiuses, the reason is that you get the one that fits. If someone wants to use a 16 on a for example 14, that's on them, just be careful, but they are on their own there. And keep in mind, it cost a lot less than paying a shop, and it is fast and foolproof. Afterward when you do the setup, it will be as good as it can be, which cannot be said for free-hand beam and straight file work. No one can perfectly precision clone 20 frets in a row using old school tools. Anyhow... I've heard of people flattening their frets in relation to the fretboard radius... easier bends. @@gravyblue

Very cool idea. I’m considering getting one. An excellent luthier taught me how to level and dress frets. I’ve had very good results on my guitars several times over doing it with basic tools. It still makes me nervous though as it’s easy to see that doing it the way I was thought uses a very “freehand” technique. Each job makes me a bit nervous. I do have a few higher end guitars I don’t think I’d do myself. I may pick up one of these in a 9.5.

If you mean the length of the fretboard... well that goes with the wood grain, so if that is not level it means your neck is twisted... and you're out of luck all across the board. If you mean the width, then your guitar got too much or too little humidity and the frets are being pushed up by the former, and lifting up by the latter... and this also means some delamination between the fretboard and the neck. Here again, you have other things to do before messing with the frets.

Look forward to your feedback. We want everyone to be happy and will do what it takes for that. Thank you.

Cool.

It i hopefully a start to make things so much easier in the fret level world.

Actually it is does it all with frets... all frets or one or two, flat neck, "S" neck if you know what you're doing like this customer: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nVIpa1pg7SM.html Anything a beam and straight files can do, FretMaestro does far better with fret to fret true radius and crown symmetry precision. If one needs to compensate fret heights for a tweaked neck because the truss rod is not true, there is no better tool for the job. For a tweaked neck it will take some time, but you will know it is as right as ever it could be Vs beams and guess job straight files that are certain to make asymmetrical frets. Yes, beams and straight files have been used for a hundred years and more, but innovation has always replaced status quo, the telegraph took out pony express, land line phones took out telegraph, cellular phones took out land lines, and smart phones are the king today... that is progress. FretMaestro is a disruptive innovation of true progress.

Yes, guitar necks and fretboards are very well precision made for many decades now. No reason to worry about them being weirded out... and so for sure, it is the best guide for fret level, radius and crown. Beats the old school guesswork by light years. And no more shredding the frets when using old school tools and rules, now we can get several or more reworks from one set of frets. A lot better that having to replace them the second go around that beams and straight filing trap us in to. Thank you.

Glad you think so!

Yeah, until you pay a shop ... and if they are not using PLEK... do not pay that shop for your conical radius fret arrangement. this is not something you guessy-poo using old school tools and rules.

@@SixStringers You're not competing with a shop doing frets, but with tools to do part of a conventional fret job. I agree with your process, but you've got a hard upsell.

reverb.com/shop/guitar-picks-sixstringers-wild-plectrums OR direct sixstringers.com/call-to-order/ We have more 12" and 9.5" coming in next week. Thank you.

@@SixStringers Wow, thank you so much

If you noticed, I am using FretMaestro without looking at what I am doing... instead looking at you all in the camera. This is really simple to use... the only issue is someone pushing the file into the frets and clogging the file as will happen with any diamond file. I stress that many times, use the weight of the file, don't gorilla it.

@@SixStringers Yes, a handful of nuances, which you showed in real time, makes a world of difference.

Nope... use Fret Crown Narrow File to get that back to how it was and keep playability and intonation.

Except that PLEK does not corn the frets. Has that changed? But yes, PLEK is an excellent machine for $250,000

Same here 😀👍🏻

It works great as customers are now giving it 5 stars, but it does not look great cosmetically. I feel fortunate that given we state this detail in advance that customers are forgiving on the cosmetic age, it has been said that it looks 50 years old... and I cannot argue with that.

Hi, Not at all... look at the results. Do the heavy filing with the 150 grit and then use the 300 to smooth things out. Saves a lot of time. Realize that the contact of file to fret is at the beginning is hitting only the high areas, working down to full contact, and the noise of grinding become less and less... also, clear the debris, and use the eraser to quiet things down and care for the file properly that way. If you use the 300 grit to do the heavy lifting you increase your odds of clogging it because you will become impatient, and want to press down on it to move things along. Trust me, I know, or maybe I am the only impatient one. Thank your for your comment.