Saved me from dealing with the frustrating dealerships who want to charge six arms and 4 and a half legs just to get something so simple fixed. So thanks a ton!
I would like to say thank you for putting very explicit videos. Most of these videos are "old", but still relevant. Thanks to these videos I was able to fix some "minor" fixes, that would have costed my daughter hundred of thousands of dollars. I even used some videos for my own car. I hope you update and or continue to do some new videos. This is my first go to place before I do anything! Again, thanks.
Just completed my first brake job, and your video was very helpful. Many doubted I could do this and said to take it into the shop. But with your help, I not only successfully changed all my brake pads, but saved myself nearly $500! You have a new subscriber!
***** AWESOME Kevin! That is what I love to hear! Nice job man! Glad you learned how to replace the brakes using my video and now you know how to do it in the future! Thanks for sharing! New automotive 'how to' videos every Thursday and most Mondays so stay tuned!
@@chrisfix What did i do wrong after i compress the piston the caliper still didn't fit over the new pads. And also what do i do when the brake reservoir overflow s after compressing the piston?
Great video. Very instructional! Easy to follow. THANK YOU! I did my brakes for the first time yesterday. Was almost as easy as you make it look. But I did run into two issues. 1) I have a different make and model. The tools required were different and the caliper and bracket are two different parts. Not a major issue because I was able to find another video specific to my vehicle and I was able to drive out to the store and pick up the specific tool I needed. 2) The rotors were seized to the hub. I was expecting to just pull the rotor off the vehicle like you did but nope. Thankfully the rotors were being replaced because I had to beat them with a mini sledge to get them off. Again, thank you! This video gave me the confidence to do this myself. Saved over $300.
IMPORTANT: You should spray the entire surface of the pad area once you take the old pads out to make sure it's clean. You can use brake cleaner fluid spray and then proceed to replace the old with the new pads as shown in the video. After you are done, you'll want to press the brake pedal a couple times to set the piston all the way and then when you feel the pedal to be as it should feel, then hold the pedal down for about 30 seconds and release. Then press the pedal once again and make sure it feels right. Good video.
Just changed the front break pads and rotor on Acura RSX and showed my son as well. Many thanks for sharing your video and passing the knowledge to others. You saved me $300.00 :)) Am going to down load your videos and send it to my nephew and brother in Fiji Islands. Share the wealth :) Thanks a million
The brake shop ripped me off. Want to charged too much money to replace the brake pads and rotors. This video taught me it’s simple job to do. I don’t need that scam mechanic shop. I can do it myself
Thanks for the video. Im 17 and will be getting my first car soon. My step-dad is good at fixing cars but its always nice to know how to do things on your own. Thank you a lot!
Hey Chris! I just wanted to update my brake job progress.....The parts arrived late yesterday and I had already taken everything apart.....The first side (pads and rotor) went very slowly...Totally my fault for taking the brakes apart before the parts arrived...The rear pad replacement was a breeze. This morning, I tackled the other side and got the pads (front and rear) and the front rotor done in about an hour! I would not have tackled this job without your OUTSTANDING VIDEO! Thank You so much! Bill
Bill Shideler AWESOME! Yea, the first side is a learning experience and as long as you take your time and learn properly, the second side will go by real fast! I am super happy the video encouraged you to do this yourself!
Hey ChisFix, We need a great mechanic like you in Las Vegas. A true mechanic love fixing cars and take pride in the work provided. Salute to you! Keep doing great job.
THankyou chris i have a 1999 2.5l 4 cyl rwd ford ranger and until now i have not been able to find high quality easy to understand videos for the ranger! Im trying to save money and learn my way around automotive repairs [im a plumber] so i really appreciate it. keep on making vidjas!
Elliot Bernhaut Hey Elliot, I am glad my videos are helpful! Thanks for the feedback! New automotive 'how to' videos every Thursday and most Mondays so stay tuned!
Hey Chris, Love your vid's. You forgot to clean your new rotors with brake clean, many new rotors come with a protective film of oil to prevent rust while sitting on the shelf. Also I pull out my slide pins and clean out old grease and dirt and replace with fresh syl-glide lube. If pin boots are broken or cracked they need replacing.
I just had someone replace brakes on my wife car and after seeing it being done I felt I could do it myself. Your video helped a lot and now I was able to do the rotors and brakes on my truck. Thanks.
Great video, 2 things i have noticed, you should always clean your new rotors with break cleaner to remove all manufacturing oils, and always it is good practice to grease the guide pins on the caliper to make sure they don't seize up. Other then that great video.
Greasing the guide pins is a great idea. I dont know if cleaning the "manufacturing oils" off the rotors is needed honestly. I use to take my time to do that but in the end it gets burned off anyhow when you burnish the brakes... What do you think, is it really necessary to clean the rotors off?
Gunner is bang on da money gotta clean the oils off IF the rotors has em on..And for heavens sake lube and check those guide pins to make sure they are moving nicely..just did this on my 2003 Oldsmobile silhouette and those pins can lock up and bind like shit driving you crazy..these are musts especially in older vehicles
I just had this done at the dealership yesterday for my front brakes. both rotors and brake pads. great video to understand what they did (And why the labor charge was so much!)
Thanks for posting this video. I've changed break pads before, but not the rotors. It's nice to be able to do things on your own and save money when you're a single mom. Keep it up.
lcauthon7 Thanks! Glad the video was helpful and yea, that is the idea, fixing your car yourself saves you a lot of money and you know you did the job correctly.
I love watching your videos. my boyfriend is a mechanic and works cars of friends and family and it's fun to watch him and understand what he is doing so I can do it myself if I ever need to. Keep it up!
Chris, Great demo video! My son who is an AG mech gave me a tip I would like to share. When you go to push your caliper pistons back so you can put the new pads in he suggest that you open the bleed port and remove the brake fluid that is closet to the caliper then shut the bleed. He told me that the brake fluid breaks down because the hottest place is the caliper in the hydraulic system. Adding brake fluid to top of and replace the fluid that was removed is the final step. Ron
Thanks for the great video. This DIY video saved me a couple hundred bucks. Stealership quoted me 900 bucks for front brakes and rotors also back brakes and rotors. Parts only cost me 200. Thanks alot .
I've finally, at the age of forty, decided to do all my own basic repair jobs and save myself hundreds! Videos such as these have made it easy , and has taken away the fear that I may screw something up! Thanks
You have great videos! I'm doing my front bakes on a 2004 Chev Trailblazer right now, but one thing I think you must touch on - is how to remove the rotor if it's stuck on the hub with rust. I saw others whaling away on the old rotor with hammers, using pullers (a kind of pricey buy or rent), soaking the assembly with penetrating oils, going at it in all sorts of ways. But there are those two threaded holes on the face of the rotor where the wheel lugs are and if you put a right sized bolt in there and tighten it down - that is a great and simple way to get the stuck rotor off! Cheers!
Hey Chris I like your videos great camera angles and closeups and how you tell us extra tips while your fixing things. Like telling us a major tip at 11:48 make sure you don't use brake fluid that's been open for 3 months because it gets moisture in it and that's no good. I'm going to use a black magic marker and write on the brake fluid the date I first opened it. Thanks Chris your the best. Keep up the Great work man!
Wen setting up a new rotor, it is always a good idea to clean up the hub with a metal brush in to avoid vibrations. Just a recommendation. Imagine If there is any rust on the hub. It will "prop" the new rotor from the inner side and this could prevent it to fit alongside perfectly on the hub. So you will have vibrations with your new rotor mounted. :) BTW, I really love your videos. :)
Tell you what Chris videos are easy detailed an didn't believe how doing it yourself was so much fun an cost cutting big shout here from the UK buddy your my new online mechanic :)
It might have already been stated in another comment. But I'll reenforce it. You should always clean the mating surfaces with a wire brush to make sure the is nothing between the rotor and the hub. Also make sure to wipe the new rotor with brake clean really good before install to remove the sealer on there that prevents rust. Love the videos keep up the good work.
Great video. If I didn't see this or hear this. Brake Lubricant must NOT BE petroleum based, need to put some on the pins as well as the areas you mentioned. And with new rotors, need to seat the brakes to put pad material on new rotors, videos are on this subject.
It's kinda funny hearing current ChrisFix then listening to his earlier videos. Updated ChrisFix"HEY GUYS CHRISFIX HERE! Earlier one "Hey guys ChrisFix here" I love it though! I watch and learn from ALL your videos.
your videos are so helpful. i think youre better than scotty kilmer to be honest. hes great but i like you more. keep up the great work and thanks for helping us rookies out
Hi Chris, great video! A couple of points though... some models have the rotor held in by the wheel bearings (such as my 626). You need to remove the whole knuckle and have the wheel bearings pressed out by a machine shop, new rotor installed then new bearings pressed in. Also on older cars it pays to go slow on the piston compression - the seals can easily split and new calipers aren't cheap!
Couple things you forgot to mention is when you get new rotors to clean them with brake cleaner to get get the oil that they are shipped with off. Also you should of cleaned the whole brake system while your at it to get dirt, brake dust and rust off of your new brakes snd itll look better. Love your vids ha been on a binge now watching all of them learning a couple new things here an there. Also waiting for the finished p71!!!
+Cody Price Thanks a lot for sharing Cody! Check out my top brake job tips video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xJDOuZzEAQc.html I get the crown vic back in a few days!
thanks so much because of your skills i was able to hook my car up , with out breaking the bank thanks ,now everybody in my family won't to watch your how to videos my car wood still be broke if it wasent for you thanks
Useful tip (just found this out today): If you strip your retainer screws that hold the rotor in place (thanks, Honda), use a "left-handed drill bit" (drilling counter-clockwise) to drill out the screw. After you drill in enough, it'll catch the screw and unscrew it if a) it's centered, b) it's lubed up. It was far easier than drilling them out the normal (clockwise) way or hamming them out with a punch or using a blow torch.
Brilliant! Thank You Mr. Fix. Just successfully changed my rear brake shoes, thanks to you! Worked like a 'charm'. I have the 'brake wobble'. Next step, new roaters (spelling?)
Chris- First, great videos! We appreicate the time and effort it takes to put one of these videos together. i would like to offer my 2 cents to you and your viewers. You REALLY need to be wearing nitrile or latex gloves when handling any brake, oil, or transmisison components. There are numerous articles now about the hazards of carbon, ceramic, and petro byproducts. Please take this as constructive input and invest in the proper PPE for these tasks. Again, great video and thanks for saving these viewers some of their hard earned money! Regards- J
Awesome video walkthroughs! If not necessarily doing this stuff on my own, it does help learn and understand how a car is put together and how the mechanical stuff works. Keep up the great work!
***** No problem man! I am glad the video was helpful! Definitely consider subscribing! New automotive 'how to' videos every Thursday and most Mondays so stay tuned!
Good video. The only other thing I could suggest is if you're changing original rotors, take that caliper bracket out of the caliper completely (both bolts) to inspect the pins and boots - if those boots are torn then you're going to get dirt and moisture inside that pin boot and eventually it will rust and potentially seize your pad which would then also lead to warping your rotor. Awesome how-to!
nice in depth explanation, the one thing i will say though is you dont necessarily need that specialty tool, i use a big pair of pliers and they work just fine
Thanks for making this video. Clearly explained. And may I ask you something. Is the rotor and brake pad should be replaced at the same time even if the break pad still have 70% left? My Hyundai dealer recommended me to replace both because the rotor need to be replaced.
Will do. Bleeding brakes is pretty easy. I mention it in this video at the end here: How to Replace a Wheel Cylinder But I can make one dedicated to just bleeding the brakes.
I just want to say all your videos are well made and informative and motivated me to learn all I can about my car. That being said, I just have a quick question. After jacking my car up, removing the tire, and snooping around and what-not, I noticed that when I drive, the tires I removed and put back now making a "swishing" sound as I drive. Speculation has made me think that I didn't properly replace the tires and they're wobbling, but i'd just like an expert opinion. Thanks.
Michel Arnold usually loose wheels shake the car with a wobble and offset driving really bad. i don't know for sure. the only time i got swishing from the wheels was when i didn't tighten my calipers down enough and the pads were kind of freely brushing on the rotors. the only thing i can say for sure is when you are in doubt. take it back apart and make sure everything is snug and torqued down right
Awesome video!!! Very instructive and illustrative! Thumbs up! Umm.... I used brake fluid from a container that was opened for a lot longer than three months. If the lid is on, does it build up moisture that fast? It seems like it would build up moisture faster after it's being used in the vehicle than sitting in an opened container on the shelf. I figured I was just adding better fluid to worse fluid. Was I totally wrong? Please let me know and I will go flush the clutch and brakes with fresh fluid if I screwed up.
+heymisterderp Thank you! Brake fluid absorbs water so easily but at the same time, if the container was sealed, I wouldnt go crazy but if you wanted to be prefect you dont want to use brake fluid from a container that is opened for more than 3 months. That being said, I used brake fluid that was open for a year (but the cap was tight) and it has been fine. I am getting a brake fluid tester so I can do a video on that so stay tuned!
Well now I know! Thanks again! You're an amazing teacher, sir. The new video to test fluid sounds very interesting as well. I'll be watching a lot more of your videos in the days to come. They're a clinic!
Hi Chris, great vid. One thing: those 'springs' you swapped over aren't springs - they're wear indicators and you only need one per side, fixed to the inner pad's leading edge (top in your case) so they contact the rotor and squeal when the pads are worn and you go into reverse.
Guinea Fowl Thanks man! Yea, you are right. Sometimes when you make videos you use a term and it just sticks with the video. The "springs" are in fact wear indicators. I like to use 2 wear indicators on each pad because if there is uneven wear, one side might wear out faster.
Hi mister Chris fix please upload for Nissan maxima 2010 Alternator replace thanks I like ur Every single video Because u show Every single piece and claer videos keep it up God bless u
Hey Chris first I want to say that your video was great and very informative. The reason I'm learning about changing rotors and break pads is because I just had a recent work on my Frontier 2006 to change both on all 4 tires. Now my truck has shimmers and even a very noticeable shake around 75 mph. What do you think it could be? They are saying after doing externsive diagnostics that my tires and cupping and it's most likely strut or suspension issue. It doesn't make sense to me since it didn't have any shake/shimmer before taken it in to their shop. I really would hate to pay more money on more parts and labor.
Sergio Lara If it happens when you press the brakes, I would say brake rotors. If it happens when you are driving, I would say it is most likely your wheels were not balanced correctly and you should get them re-balanced.
+ChrisFix -- Are you a believer in using genuine Toyota rotors and pads for replacement,,,, or aftermarket? If aftermarket, which brand? All your videos are great! Thanks for all you do!!
Awesome video again Chris. Gotta question for you though. This is the first time that I have looked at the brake pads and the only reason that I checked them is because they have been squeaking when I brake. Upon inspection, the brake pads have a long way to go until they need to be changed so Im not sure why they are squeaking but now that I have put everything back on, when I out my truck in drive and release the brake, it whistles as the car moves forward until I give it some gas. Hopefully this is something that will go away after a few miles. The only thing that I replaced were the clips that you slide the brake pads into.
479Razorback try cleaning the brakes with brake clean spray. It might help. Some pads will just squeak when they are used. It usually goes away after a little use if you have good pads.
Thanks man. I went and got some afterwards and sprayed it in there and we'll see if it goes away! Thanks for being so helpful and making me want to be a DIY car fixer!
ChrisFix Yea, your channel seems to have very promising videos. And it's great that you explain everything that we should know, most channels just show the steps but not the commentary and extra information on how to prevent repeating problems.
Thanks for the video, Chris! I'll be doing this next week on my Trailblazer. Question: any reason why you leave the caliper attached to the bracket? I would think separating them would be easier, but this job will be a first for me. Just curious as to your thoughts, thank you!
Fater192 Thanks man! I am glad the video is helping you change your brakes! It is better to keep one bolt on and lift the caliper off the bracket like a clamshell because it will align easier. If you take the whole thing off you need to push the bolts (called guide pins on caliper brakes) back in, make sure the piston is compressed enough, etc.
One detail you left out, it's pretty important to spray the rotors with brake cleaner before putting the tire back on. Dirty rotors will wear out faster.
