Everything is great. but one thing confused me . Why would you disconnect the brake line when you can just leave on and compressed in the Piston back in returning the brake fluid back to its reservoir tank🤔
Good vid i just changed mine. Just make sure you have an impact for the disassembly of the rotor. I barely made it to harbor freight in time before they closed 😅
@7:46 it shows some bearings, are those considered the wheel bearings? I believe I have a bad wheel bearing on my driver side front and if it is the wheel bearing I would like to do it the same time i change rotors and pads. Please let me know! thank you and also this video is awesome! You're just about the only person that shows how to change a 5 lug Tacoma!
First of all great video! Am i correct in assuming the inner and outter race's were left in and reused since you reused the old bearings? Also what is the best way the remove the old races if they are damaged and need replacement? With out a press or taking to a shop? 96 Tacoma 2wd , 5 lug.
That's correct. Our races were fine. I'd probably just get new rotors with the races pre installed. Or get a race driver set and pound them in and out. Thanks for watching!
I should have watched this video before attempting to replace my rotors on my '97. Done my wife's Rav4 a month or so ago and that was easy compared to this pile. I have changed brakes and rotors on a great deal of vehicles I have owned and this one by far is the worst. Got it done. Don't know how long it will last. The race on the outer bearing didnt flush with the hub. Stuck up barely above the lip but the POS went back together so I'm driving it
you are high, there is absolutely no reason to diconnect the brake line, nor to remove the slides, just unbolt the carrier from the spindle and lift the whole assemble off in one piece
@@LuchoPortugayo bullshit, i have never needed to remove the brake line to change my rotors...or remove the sliders, just unbolt the carrier from the spindle and it all comes off as one unit, and no need to bleed your brakes afterwards
Thanks for posting! Though your hub separated from the rotor far easier than mine, everything was spot on! Lock washers on pad bracket bolts and 19 years of upstate NY rust were a real bear but got everything off ok. Also had to sand some corrosion off the brake line fitting and bolt(even with the gaskets) to stop it from leaking. Fun fact, parking brake light stays comes on when your brake fluid level is low!
I’m getting ready to do mine and figured it’s just pop wheel off and then rotor but assumption is the Mother of all ----ups!! Very straight to the point,thorough and best vid I’ve seen!!!!! Thanks
Awesome video, did not realize inner and outer bearings would have to be greased when I did my rotors. Just purchased a 2000 Tacoma SST RWD and I'm in love.
This was very helpful. The vehicle in the video had parts just like the one I was working on. The procedures were easy to follow: watch a bit, work a bit; repeat. In hindsight I would watch the entire video 1st, then keep the video at your work area so you can follow along as you get parts of the task accomplished. Every model is different and these guys take tthat into consideration. Thanks fellows for helping me out so well.
Awesome! I have been looking for days for a video on how to replace the broken wheel stud from my 1999 Tacoma with the same hub as this. Newer Tacoma has a different type of hub assembly. Thanks a lot.
Great video. Excellent camera placement, not rushed and very detailed. I changed out the pads and rotors on my '03 this past weekend, and thanks to this video it went without a hitch.
Excellent video. My two cents…Note that after he disconnects the brake line from the caliper he leaves the brake line bolt in place to keep brake fluid from draining out. I had to rewatch to see what I didn’t follow! Oh well fortunately my master cylinder did not empty.
I'm a noob, If anyone knows of the torque spec, please do post it. Even with google, it's pretty difficult for us noob to figure this out when we don't even know the specific names for these parts. lol. I'm at a lost for the torque spec of the "Rotor assembly side bolts" is it 47Lbs?
Must be nice to work on a clean vehicle. I stripped the head of one hub bot so far. First brake line bolt doesn't even look like a bolt anymore. Trying to work around it. Other side ( worse one) can't get either slide bolt out and hub bolts want to strip. Good part is I'm doing it out doors on a patch of ice covered with oil from my tractors oil. Good part is the sun was shining and the birds were singing. Parts should be in today. It's raining though. Good video though. Now I know how to do it in a perfect scenario.
@@2carpros i live in northern NY where they salt the roads 6 months out of the year. So it ain't all dirt. The rust just fuses things together. PB blaster and torches are part of every job , lol.
Got er done just before the blizzard hit. Soaked the hub bolts overnite and bought a 6 point impact socket and removed the stuburn bolt. Left the brakelines and caliper bracket on so I would have to replace them to. Slides funtioned but bolts were fused solid. It was a pain but they work. Thanks for the video, It helped a lot.
Nice video. This looks like a rust free state truck. I would also clean and lube the hardware where pads are installed on caliper bracket. If they are rusty should be replaced. Also the seals should probably be replaced not cleaned and reused. If the rubber seal fails there will be grease all over rear of tire.
Great video but just so everyone knows be really careful using the axle nut to remove the inner bearing like he did because I dented up both of mine and had to replace them
Yep, same thing happened to me. I bent the metal part of the bearing. Went to Toyota they wanted $160 for 1 bearing. No thanks… went to napa got em for $11
Hello! When you disconnect that brake line before taking the caliper off, does it open the brake line up and spill fluid out? Do you need to bleed the brakes because you took that line off?
great video! Would anyone know how to disconnect or somehow turn off the high pitch ringing noise that indicator makes for this vehicle? I switched the pads but the indicator sensor is still ringing. thank you
good video. and complete - are the rears the same? couple questions - how can you tell if the rotors need replacing ans are the rears the same as the fronts?
Thank you very much. because of your great video, I was able to change rotors, brakes and wheel studs on my Tacoma 2002 RWD, 2WD. Great video, one of the best I came across.
2CarPros Just curious...I only saw the inner bearing seal. How come there's no outer bearing seal? Is that necessary on a 1999 Tacoma base model single cab with 5 lugs?
Great video. So for a 96 tacoma 2wd (5 lug) you will need to remove the axle nut and the two piece rotor assembly to replace the rotor? Seen other videos where the rotor just slides off after removing the caliper assembly. Not sure what year Tacoma those were. Also, if you damage/strip any of the mounting bolts for the calipers, are they easily replaced at auto parts store or do you have to got to Toyota service dept?
In this video it is for the 2wd so the steps are show for removing the rotor. As for your question about the mounting hardware those will be a dealer only item.
Ok. Thanks. Are there any specific torque settings for the various bolts? I noticed that you did not use a torque wrench for any of them? Also, the axle nut tightening is a little unclear. You indicate that "you wouldn't want this on very tight". That seems like a pretty subjective setting.
Yes too tight and It will wear the bearing out to loose and the bearing will fail also. If you want torque specs you can always google search for them.
Great video. I have a problem where I couldn't separate the rotor and the hub after removing the 5 bolts. I've tried hammering it from the back of the hub but no luck. Any suggestions?
Try spraying WD-40 or liquid wrench between the axle spline and the rotor. Then keep going at it with a hammer, just don't hit the threads! Thank you so much for watching!
2CarPros thanks for quick reply. do you think if it's ok to hit it while it's still on the car? I'm planning to tight it up with the axle nut and hammer the rotor from the front. because it kept on jumping around if I do it off the car... ugh hassles!
Just drop it onto a hard surface like a cement floor or paved driveway rotor side first. Hold it up about waist high with the rotor facing down, and then just drop it. May take more than one time.
I know I'm a year late, but I had the same problem and solved it, so I figured I'd reply here in case it can help someone else. Put the rotor on two blocks of wood (or anything if you're junking the rotor), with the inside of the rotor, if it were on the truck, facing upward. Pound on the center of the rotor assembly with a block of wood and a hammer. It shouldn't take much effort that way, and mine was pretty rusty.
Very useful video - gives necessary guidance through the process. I would like to get the torque specifications for all of the bolts that need to be returned to their original status.
I have a 95 Tacoma V6 2WD LX. Never dripped 1 drop of oil in 10 years. keep a watch on the fan clutch, make sure it is sound. if you spin the fan by hand & it doesnt stop very quickly. Replace. They dont last as long as you might think either. I check mine whenever Im under the hood. my last 1 only lasted 3-4 years. just go buy a Chilton manual for it. 15$ will save you 1000's.
Thank you, this video helped greatly doing a similar looking job on a Toyota Spacia 2001 model. I was trying to force that hub out as I thought undoing the locking pin would pull the entire hub out rather than just the rotors.
this is a great video. thank you soo much. unfortunately as i was removing the two bolts to remove the caliper one of them got stripped. any idea how to remove that?
Wow. This looks a like a nightmare to DIY, esp the grease part. Sucks to have a 5 lug because this job on 6 lug appear to be effortless. Thanks for the great video.
Thank you very, very much, 2CarPros, for this video. It gave me the confidence to tackle this job on my 2001 Tacoma base model myself rather than spending big bucks at Sears again. I really appreciate all the information provided and the pace of the video. I'd trade the music for more commentary from the mechanic however!
No but you cant get at the top slide bolt with a socket or even a box end. You also have to compress the caliper. Thats how Im trying to do it. Brake line have never been off and one doesn't even look like a bolt anymore. Probably a year late replying but maybe someone else will benefit
Really great video! Very informative. One question. What is the torque spec for attaching the rotor to the hub? You used a pneumatic gun but didn't say how tight those bolts are to the actual rotor.
+kojmas I was just quoted to pack the bearing at $300 plus tax. this is too easy for it to cost this much. I can buy a sport brake kit a cheaper than that price.
I have a 04 2wd tacoma and the maintenance book I believe says to repack front bearings every 30,000 miles. Does anybody do this. I have 100,000 and have never done it.
Thanks for the video, did the work myself thanks to you. I did have to bleed the brakes with the truck running, I'm not sure if it's necessary to do that, but my brakes wouldn't bleed without it running.
+2CarPros there is no need to remove the break hose. all you had to do was take off the bottom bolt and pivot the caliper up and slide the upper bolt out of the bracket.
