Thanks for the video. Done this job many times on other cars so useful to see the tools required. Using an air gun on these wheel nuts can break the stainless steel cap covers off the bolts. They should always be tightened by hand.
Thanks for the video, really helpful and confirmed the things I need to do. Cant believe some of the stupid crap coments on here about your video. Some people are so quick to criticise and are so negative. This guy has taken the time and effort to try and help others however you always get some people with no brain cells who are so negative. For those who dont have anything positive to say, dont say it. Thanks again Jim.
Thank you for the video it is really awesome and done very well, just the grease part not sure what grease you used, and is it needed to drain or change the break fluid? How often do you recommend to change it? many thanks for your effort to put this toghter it is really good work and look "really straight forward" if you know what you do and have all the right tools. 20 thumbs up from me mann
Thanks for the kind comment. I use copper grease (some people disagree as to whether to use this but ive never had any problems doing so nor has anyone ive known) you can use a lithium grease for the sliders if you wish, also regarding brake fluid its not needed for just doing your pad / disc replacement however it does need doing every 2 years or if it becomes contaminated before that time 👍
I did my rear yesterday. Slider bolt 35nm. Caliper bracket 65nm.(need star socket to undo these) Also a rewind tool for the piston. Wheel nut 135-140nm
Okay, you tighten to torque, that's very good, but, what about thread lock? You don't put any??? However, it is very important for this type of security body!!! 😡
You're getting away lightly - they wanted close to £1100 for mine ! So I'm here ! Discs and pads all round about £430 from EBC. Only tricky bit is getting the carrier bolts undone as I don't have an impact gun. (And an 18mm AF head - had to go buy a new 6 sided socket for that, never ever needed an 18mm socket before. 19mm was defo loose and would have rounded the bolt head
Lots of mistakes on this video. At first do the homework then show people how to do it. 1. Cooper grease + aluminium wheel = chemical reaction (better use ceramic grease). 2. Red grease on hydraulic piston. 3. Silicone grease on sliding pin. 4. Best idea is unscrew bleeder nipple and remove old very dirty brake fluid, don't push it back to master cylinder. Dislike your labour!
Good reply for someone that want to attempt it them self as agents asked just to much money, just want to ask, if it is the first breaks you need to replace on the car( meaning the first ones that came with car brand new is now due for replacement), do you mean you must ALWAYS drain the break fluid? I used to do my own car`s break 30years ago but that was plain forward, this video although make it also look easy enough. Your grease answers is super awesome, but just want to know about the break fluid if you don`t mind commenting on that.
Never had a problem with copper grease. Copper is very low in the table of metal reactivity, almost as good as silver. Hence why it's used for plumbing! Red or silicone grease on rubber parts is better if you have it, but I've never had any trouble. What I do know is this: Steel + aluminium with no grease = bigger chemical reaction!
