This video along with the one where you replaced rear mount is the best of all I've watched so far. And I believe the only one where that coolant hose wasn't removed, lol.
Thanks for this video. I just did this maintenance last night as part of also replacing my starter. It definitely helps with the intake manifold out of the way. But even with the intake manifold removed, it was still very difficult to maneuver the mount out. So one tip I have is to just remove the radiator fan. It's very easy to remove them. You'll have to disconnect the top radiator hose to get it out of the way. I have no idea how you were able to take the mount out without removing the fan. Anyway... thanks again for the video.
Job well done I’m gonna use this video when it’s time to change my mount aka when I have the moola to do the one center mount and the thermostat/housing all one jobber This is the best video out of many I found on RU-vid pertaining to a motor mount swap for 2005 accord Thanks my dude!
@@DIYAutoworksNGhey brother do you know if the rear mount for a Honda accord will also work for an Acura TSX? Given the same gen of years, They have diff part numbers but look identical?
Thanks a lot for this video. I just replaced my mount today on my 2009 Accord and it was essentially the same process. Your video was extremely helpful and gave me the confidence to do the job myself. Thanks again! One tip I will give for others is to clean underside of the mounting bolts with a wire brush and apply penetrating grease before removal, as the bottom of them will be very rusty, making them hard to remove otherwise.
I'm stuck at the part where i have to jack the engine/transmission up. I don't know exactly where to place the jack at. I don't want to bend / damage the oil pan
As long at you place a flat block of wood under the oil pan, you won't have an issue. Thickness of the block of wood should be about 1.5" at least and not soft.
@@DIYAutoworksNG dude i got all the bolts off of the mount housing. And i can wiggle it around, but can't seem to slip it off. i even moved that bracket to the right of it, too. So i have to jack up the engine from the oil pan area until i can wiggle off the mount housing?
The 2005 Acura TSX I have has have the clearance room from the engine to the radiator fans.... It's the same procedure but you have to pull the fans on the tsx for room I think?
I have all the symptoms of a vacuum leak for fuel trims, but couldn't find any leaks around the engine. I finally clamped off the motor mount vacuum hoses at the solenoid, and STFT dropped from 21 to 9. So it's possible that a leak in the hose, or a crack in the motor mount, could cause a vacuum leak that would in turn cause a lean condition. You could try the same thing I did - you only need a cheap $25 ODB2 scan tool.
too the point no bs assumes most watching are not clueless idiots tells you tools required sizes and torque specs. totally has is together on making short order of this job.
Where you bought it from should tell. OEM from genuine dealerships/websites. This is for new ones. If you are used buying in person, you can do a close comparison with the old part.
Thanks, I generally prefer to do it this way since removing the radiator + hose + draining the coolant would be more work and take longer. It does make taking out the mount easier, but longer.
Yes. You will need to support the engine with a block of wood under the oil pan and lift it to be able to free the mount. Prior to this, you will jack up and support the car itself to remove the vacuum line to the mount. After removing the vacuum line, I removed the support stands and then lifted the oil pan. Hope this helps.
Excessive vibration at idle and engine movement when shifting into gear. You may also have a jerk. If a mount is cracked or broken, once you inspect it you will know. On some mounts more subtle wear like separation of the rubber from the housing may be more difficult to identify for the untrained eye.