If you enjoyed the video, please press the *like button* 👍 Your support is *greatly appreciated* . *There are Links* in the video description for all the parts used in the video. I also have a *TWEETER upgrade* video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EG8nxTCzVa0.html *REAR SPEAKERS upgrade* : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-oL5zZH09VuA.html and *STEREO Upgrade* : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JBnRhJJNNAE.html If you enjoyed the video, please give it a *thumbs up* 👍. Your support helps me create more content and is *greatly appreciated* . If you have any *questions* , *comments* , or *suggestions* for future videos, feel free to leave them below. I love hearing from you and look forward to your *feedback* !
I am a professional stereo installer for 29 years, and i have to say, you did i better job than most installers. The extra baffles, foam, and heat shrink, most installers do not use. Those speakers probably sounded better than they normally would. Excellent work and great video !!!
Thank you! Yes they do sound quite good for a budget speaker. I'm really enjoying listening to them. I've done installs without the extras on all my previous cars, and the sound was never that great, even with expensive speakers. That's what motivated me to do a better job this time, and get the full potential of the speaker. A little extra $$ but totally worth it!
Hi I need advice. I had upgraded the speakers in my car everything was fine till recently I noticed it cutting out or crackling. So I redid the wiring like he did in the video and it didn't work got not sound from my front right speaker. Then tried using terminal block with a solid connection but all i get from my headunit is a pop through the front right and then nothing but sound out all my other speakers. What could it be? I also noticed when I switch my car on theirs a buzz in my dashboard speaker.
Hands-down one of the best video tutorials I've seen for a task that non-car or non-electrical people (like me) find daunting. My front left speaker has been cutting in and out for a few months, before shutting off completely a few weeks ago. You made it so easy to diagnose the same wire corrosion on my speaker in my 2015 Corolla, and replace the issue with better sounding speakers this past weekend. Thank you for taking the time to explain the steps so clearly, and for making this video. I changed out my speakers by myself for less than half of what a nearby car audio shop quoted me, and I bet my speaker setup also sounds better because of the added accessories like the Stringer Fastrings and NVX baffles. Kudos to you!
I agree, having the "needed tools" and list of things to buy was very handy. So many videos I watch from car guys and they assume you have a loaded snap-on toolbox and all the grease and oils and cleaners and everything already on hand, so you get halfway thru a job and realize "Oh I need this special lubricant for my brake pins? Well now I need get someone to give me a ride to AutoZone before the close"
As a past technical instructor, I must commend you on a very thorough solution to what is quite apparently an epidemic problem with Corolla's of this vintage. I've been tolerating intermittent function of my front speakers for several years in my 2015 Corolla LE-ECO. Today, I popped off the door panel to investigate (after stumbling onto your video). As soon as I touched the positive wire at the speaker harness connector, it fell right off. I've temporarily "rigged" it using a couple of female ECM terminals crimped to speaker wire leads. Since I could not reuse the OEM harness connector, the terminals are delicately placed into the speaker connector and said connector filled with RTV. This'll get me by until my new speakers and related components arrive (per the links that you so generously provided). Thank you for saving me lots of time and frustration Clever Fix...bravo!
Thanks a lot for the comment! Really appreciated. I couldn't tolerate it for long, it was so annoying. I'm really enjoying the better sound too, it makes driving a lot more pleasant. Hope the RTV holds long enough.. I was going to try to solder directly to the spades on the speaker side once it stopped working a second time, but I gave up.. Unless the connection is VERY secure, it will get lost again. In the video where I used a butt connector to the aluminum wire, one side gave up after a while. All I had to do was squeeze it real tight, and it has been perfect since, but it's that sensitive to moisture. Had I known, I would've used adhesive lined marine grade heatshrink... That's what I am using from now on for everything. This is a good reminder for me to add a link to it in the description as well. Enjoy the new speakers once you put them in!
@@CleverFix Luckily the RTV only needs to hold up a few more days until all of the speaker installation supplies arrive and then it gets ripped out along with the lousy factory speakers. I will be using heat shrink tubing very liberally in my installation, including around the body of the female push connectors at the new speaker blade terminals. Factory Toyota window regulators seem to last forever, so I'm hoping this will be the last time I have to yank the door panels for as long as I own the car!
The driver side door speaker was cutting out. I did this install using exactly what was used in this video and LOVE it. Thank you for the awesome video.
Thank so much for sharing this how to video. You made it look so easy, the added steps to make it sound better is a great idea. More power to you and your channel.
Thanks for sharing this video! Just upgraded the front speakers of my 2017 corolla to 6.5" kicker speakers. You saved me alot of time and frustration. And the sound clarity is so much better!
Awesome 👍 Glad to hear! I'm working on a stereo upgrade video right now, which will be coming soon😊. I don't have it in yet, but I know it will improve the sound quality even more.
Thanks for the video! I lost the front driver’s side speaker in my ‘15 Corolla and found your DIY fix video. But then stumbled on your front speaker upgrade video and it made more sense to just replace them, rather than to fix the poor quality factory ones. I ordered the parts through your links, and followed your video step by step. What a difference even while keeping the stock head unit, I’m very pleased. I will be tackling the rear speakers next, while following your other video, thanks again!!😊👍
Awesome, thanks for the support, it's appreciated ! Check out the tweeter video too, it makes a pretty good difference as well.. not as big as the speakers though, but I'm very happy after upgrading them. I have a new Pioneer stereo unit here that I'll be installing when the weather warms up. I'm expecting a huge improvement once I put it in. It was recommended by a viewer.
@@CleverFix Please record and make a video of the new head unit install please, I am definitely interested in this. Are you going to do the install with steering wheel controls and back up camera capabilities? Apple Car Play or Android too perhaps? I’m doing the rear speaker install this weekend, is the rear seat backrest removal absolutely necessary, or is it just easier to work around with them removed? It doesn’t look too terribly difficult to remove them, just a few more extra steps. I probably will do it👍
@@kevmo919 I will do the install video once I get it done for sure. Yes, steering controls and backup camera will remain, I don't want to lose those, and yes the unit has both Apple car play and Android capabilities. Unfortunately I couldn't find a plug and play solution , so the Crux SWRTY61N adapter has to be connected to the Pioneer Head unit with some soldering. The connectors on the car plug into the SWRTY though, so soldering can be done ahead of time, and then just plug it into the car. I'm still a bit hesitant about giving out wire colors to connect, I don't want someone connecting the wrong wires by mistake, especially if the manufacturer changes the colors on later models. Maybe I will just show the manual for the SWRTY, and for the Pioneer, and mention which wires need to be connected together for it to work. The SWRTY has the backup camera jack, and steering wheel control jack, so it does both, plus the Toyota plugs go into it, so it's really useful. As for the rear seats, I had to film it, and to do that, removing the seats made it way easier.. I don't fit well in there with the seat folded, I tried it and I thought it would be fine, but it was very cramped.
@@CleverFix Awesome, thanks for the information. I look forward to the new head unit video👍👍 I will try the rear speaker install without removing the rear backrests, but will be prepared to do so if I feel it’ll be easier too😏
Thanks for the video. I was watching your other video on fixing the bad speaker wires but then I saw this and decided that if I'm going to rip into the door and work on the speakers anyway, I may as well upgrade my sound while I'm at it.
i installed my side, rear, and tweeter speakers this weekend. couldn't have done it without your videos. thank you so much! i'd still love to see a detailed video of the microphone installation for the touch screen. my audio upgrade is nearly complete👍
That's awesome, you should have really great sound now!! Check the A-pillar video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bDzc7cpNY7I.html once the a-pillar is removed, it's very easy to install the microphone. I double side sticked it on the windershield at the top, then push the wire under the headliner to hide it, and down the a-pillar. I used electrical tape to tape it to the existing wires going through the a-pillar, to keep it away from the airbag. Then I opened the left side cover of the dash, and routed the wire across to the middle, and use some zip ties to hold it in place. It's very simple.. the weather is too terrible now to do any filming.. it has been raining a lot, and cold.. so I haven't been able to do anything unfortunately. Thanks for the comment and watching!
@@CleverFix yup, especially after a touch screen that didn't work and blown rear speakers. It sounds great! I'll give that a try. Thanks again and stay warm!
You should upgrade the amplification part, the factory speaker may have an higher efficiency with the light paper cone, the new ones could sound more quiet without a proper amplifier
@siddharthkolap7143 Yes I upgraded from the old radio. I think it's worth it if you want to get the most out of your new speakers and its nice to have bluetooth as well. A video that was really helpful was called 2009 - 2013 Toyota Corolla Radio Install by Provo Beast. It has a few links for some parts you'll need like a wiring harness and dash kit. The radio I ended up using was the Kenwood DPX504BT which I'm really happy with but there are alot of good options out there. Hope this helps
Excellent video i installed these same speakers back in april 2021 with a hidden spare tyre sub and it made a night and day difference with the sound quality
@@CleverFix and i 've even gotten a few compliments on how good it sounds but i'm thinking of selling it to get the jbl basspro hub, i went with the rockville model
They make wiring adapters for speakers like this, No need for the splicing and crimping. Way better and faster, Also less of a hassle when going back for repairs. Great vide though
My OEM connectors were corroded, so they had to be cut off. I should have made that clearer in the video. Connectors are great for earlier years that have copper wiring. Many 2014+ will get the corrosion problem, I think it's inevitable that at some point they will all corrode. Moisture gets in through the window seal, and it's aluminum wire. Thanks for watching!
@@CleverFix thats a pigtail repair then yes. I recommend getting some liquid tape, Its one the best methods to protect all your wiring and prevent it from corroding again.
Thanks! This is on a 2014 Corolla, with aluminum wiring, so cutting off the connector is a huge plus, because the OEM connector corrodes in time and loses connection. That was actually the #1 reason for me to do the upgrade. If you have an older Corolla it will be fine though.
Thanks for the detailed guide and time put into this. Fellow Corolla owners appreciate your time and effort. If you were simply trying to replace the speakers as they broken for a second time after Toyota fixed them once and keep costs low since Ed Sheeran and kids sings sound the same in your wife’s car could you leave out any of your build (ie the baffles) to cut costs? Thanks
Sure, just get the cheapest speakers, brackets, and some speaker tape. Baffles and foam are optional.. even speaker tape can be omitted.. and just use the screws that come with the bracket.
Is there any reason you didnt use the grills that came with the speakers? Great work on the videos keep up the good work I bought almost everything on this and your front speakers list!😀
Looks like the rubber baffle takes care of everything, no need for the foam tape or the stinger foam kit. Correct me if I’m wrong. Thanks for the video. Very informative. ❤
I was thinking about this, particularly going with no stinger foam since the baffle has both the foam and the baffle itself to reduce vibration. How did it turn out for you?
Holding off, waiting for this cold weather to subside will get them. I have everything installation related sitting on the workbench. I got a 70 Mustang hogging space in the garage❤. I can’t fit my corolla in there.
NICE! Alpine is great! The old-style Alpine single DIN stereos were amazing. Were you able to get the tweeters installed in the same place as the original ones? Thanks for the comment.
@@CleverFix Love Alpine, just Installed an ILX W670. Bought a Pipneer e360x4 gonna push the front speakers in about a week from 16w to 80w rms after I let the speakers break in some Yes removed the 10mm two cap nuts from the bracket on each side then unscrewed the tweeter from it from the back on one of them, the other I had to drill out (took an hour). The screws were both too snug to not strip, I got the first one out the last attempt before the screw was toast. I put the bracket back on then I used red 3m 25lbs adhesive mounting tape and disassembled the tweeter to its smallest form and pressed it really hard onto the bracket for about 2-3 minutes on both sides. From my personal experience it will never go anywhere, even if you try. Strong stuff. I tried to use the mounting stuff provided and two different tweeter mounts from Amazon that weren't quite the right fit but I couldn't figure out any way to use them that wasn't jerryrigged and any better than simply taping them.
Also I did this in a 2006 Corolla S, your guide was almost exactly faithful however the rivets are significantly harder to remove in mine than they were for you. It took me an average of 40 minutes each rivet to remove them and make them a threadable holes they all started spinning before I was able to remove them and melted the plastic ring onto the mount itself, destroyed a drill bit, i won't go into details just know it was a violent process, but I got everything off and only burned myself silly from friction heat twice
@@GavinosuHighlights Wow that's crazy long.. !! Sometimes going slow with a drill bit works better than going fast, I notice that a lot.. When fast doesn't work, try slower next time, with medium pressure. A good bit is needed too, I think I was using Dewalt. They have been really good, I just drilled a stainless steel sink, which I'd have no chance unless I had the Dewalt bits. Cheap drill bits can have a lot of trouble going through metal. Once they start spinning it's tough though. Glad you got it done in the end!
will that tweeter from the coaxial speaker give extra high pit to the sock tweeter? I am planning to replace my front door speakers but it's component speaker. I am stuck with how to mount the cross over. Or I should go for coaxial set to make life easier?
I thought that changing the OEM speakers in a car doesn't give much improvement, if any at all, because you are still using the OEM head unit. I was told that changing out the stock head unit will give the most increase in performance per dollar because an aftermarket head unit will have a better internal amplifier. Like on my FJ cruiser, I swapped out the head unit and the OEM speakers had a significant boost in performance. Guys told me that swapping out the speakers would not do much unless I also installed an aftermarket amplifier.
Every part you upgrade will give an improvement. If you upgrade the stereo, you'll get a huge improvement, and speakers will be another huge improvement. You can do either one, or both. Doing both will be the best. I've done this many times.. speakers and stereo, or stereo followed by speakers. There is a noticeable improvement with either upgrade. A cheap speaker replaced by a quality speaker will still sound better, even with the OEM head unit. Also a high end head unit will be able to drive a cheap speaker a little better due to better sound processing and fine tuning of the equalizer (boost bass, mids, treble). You'll still get a very nice improvement if you upgrade the speakers though. There can be a rare exception in which the car comes with really good high end speakers..sometimes there are optional JBL systems, and so on.. that's not the case for my Corolla though.
Also, the stock amplifier on a high quality head unit is plenty good to drive a decent pair of aftermarket speakers (with the proper sensitivity) to nearly their full potential. Don't pick high wattage speakers for a head unit amp.. if you do then an external amp is required. External amp is not required to notice a big difference in sound quality, it is required to boost the wattage and get a big difference in *volume* . I'll be posting a Head Unit upgrade video soon (upgrade to Pioneer stereo), with before/after sound sample. The Pioneer is able to drive the Infinity speakers way better than the stock unit.. as you mentioned, the unit does make a big difference. But if I had the stock speakers, it wouldn't sound nearly as good. Also if you want to have nice bass, then an external amp with a subwoofer is the way to go. Depends on what type of music you listen to.. you wouldn't need that for classical music for example. If you do go with external amp, then you can also consider an external crossover as well.. and then again the quality of the amp and crossover will matter a lot. A cheap amp may sound worse than the Pioneer stock amp.
Yes there definitely is a reason.. the factory connectors corrode. They're well known to lose connection, it happened to mine. I have another video where I fixed it.. So this is a good way to eliminate them.
@@CleverFix I have purchased all the materials and I'm putting the terminals on and sealing tape on. Before I take my door apart and commit any further, are you confident this will not corrode like the last fix did?
@@joewhattoff8754 These are copper connectors not aluminum, they won't corrode like that. they're plated too. So yes I'm confident.. there are millions of cars connected up like this, my last car I did the same thing and it never lost connection. The way I did it the aluminum wire butt connector + shrink wrap keeps it far from moisture and well protected now, so that won't corrode any more also.
@@CleverFix Is the smaller terminal the smallest .11 or second smallest .187? I'm having a really tough time getting the .11 on. I'm scared I might break the negative piece on the 🔊
@@joewhattoff8754 It's .11 . The other will be a bit too big. Just support the speaker plate from behind while pushing it on, and don't push it all at once, very slowly, and side to side while pressing down gently. It will go on. Just don't press too hard at once, that will bend one of them, I've had it happen. Slowly and side to side is the trick to make it expand.
Awesome video! Definitely will be using this guide when I replace my speakers in a few days. One question I have is how did you bypass the tweeters? I know that there is a connections that you have to do with them or something. Also why not use the foam rings on the outside around the speakers? It doesn't look like they would do much on the inside around the hole. I have some coming and have seen them commonly put around the speaker.
On the outside toward the door panel it's useless.. the speaker is already close enough to the door panel that it reaches the round circle in it. Behind it stops vibrations from "filling" the door. So it goes behind to muffle those vibrations.. the speaker makes sound on the front but also on the back, and usually they're in an enclosed box. But on a car they can't be enclosed, so this is the closest idea.
@@CleverFix gotcha, I see what you mean. I bought some boom mats to put around the frame of the enclosure of the door panel for sound dampening I was also going to do this in the rear as well. Would you recommend the NVX baffles instead of this? I will also be using the meta mounting plate as well like you did.
@@woodtvnetwork NVX is only good for the front. I've used Dynamat stuff before and it's OK but I didn't notice a huge difference. The biggest difference was that in the winter my car would warm up inside more =) If you had a subwoofer maybe the mat makes sense, but otherwise this car is fairly solid. I don't really notice any vibrations and I haven't used any mat material.. I did the trunk too on my old car, I think it was a complete waste. I did the whole floor too, it made the ride quieter.. but again, hardly any improvement for the sound. So I'm not huge fan of plastering the entire car with matting material.. a few around the speakers are OK, but I don't think it will make a big difference. If you do notice rattling, then yes it's needed.. I'm not noticing any though. I like the NVX because it's silicone and it adds a rubber cushion between the speaker and door, so less vibrations are transferred. Also it helps to direct the sound into the foam behind it, and it prevents water from falling directly on the speakers from above. If anything, I'd get only the NVX and no fastrings if I had to choose between the two. The fastrings have a thicker sponge for the back which I tested and it muffles sound much more than the NVX sponge which is super thin.. The sound is really good after replacing both front & back, can't complain.. I'm happy the car is solid enough so it doesn't rattle. With a 12" Subwoofer it might start though, but I'm not into crazy bass any more.
@@CleverFix Thanks for the detailed reply! That is interesting to hear that you have not had great luck with the mat, but each car is different. I purchased the tape like you did and will be using that when applying the speakers in the front and the back. Also got the baffles as well and will be returning the boom mat.
Yes you can, I’m doing it on my 05 Corolla. Only problem I’m having is to place the door panel in place, it looks like the new speakers are a little bigger in length than the original ones, I’m going to trim the plastic inside the door panel where it matches the speaker to see if it fits, other than that everything including the materials on the video will work just fine.
Watch a speaker when there's bass playing. The cone pops out towards you, and it goes "boom" .. if the wires are reverse, then the speaker will do the opposite. It will move inward instead of outward, so the sound will not sound good! Sometimes it's not very noticeable, but hooking it up properly is important for good sound. It will not burn out.
Stock speakers have low wattage rating when I upgraded from stock toyota head unit to AVT head unit the stock speakers burned out..so upgraded to pioneer speakers and upgraded adapter together with foam installation..
Im curious to know if theres a difference in the "highs" being theres tweeters in the upper part of the door and the new speaker having a tweeter as well. So have you noticed things being to "high"?
So, my car front speakers are wheezing and I am thinking about replacing it like you did. But I've seem a lot of videos of people doing it but they always add an amp to make it a whole new sound system. My question is, is it worth it just to do what you did or an amp is kinda necessary?
No it's not necessary with 92db speakers. Make sure the speakers you buy have 92db sensitivity, and are not high wattage. They probably added an amp because they used high wattage and low sensitivity speakers to get crazy sound levels with minimal distortion. You won't shake the car next to you with this upgrade and no amp.. but it will be loud. If you want good quality music that doesn't cause hearing loss, this will be ok, and sound much much better than stock. Also to add an amp, it's ideal to have a line out, and the stock stereo does not.. using an amp with an already amplified sound source is not ideal at all.. so then you would first need to upgrade the stereo, and then add an amp, if you wanted to go that route. I do have a video for upgrading the stereo, which further improves sound quality: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JBnRhJJNNAE.html
Quick question, why don't you put the third fast rings (between the speaker and the door panel)? Is using the silicone replace the function of the third fast rings? Any info and guidance would be appreciated. Cheers and thanks.
Here is a Pan head screw kit that has 8-32 screws, in 3/8" length which should also work. It doesn't have lock nuts, but it has lock washers which are almost as good. www.amazon.com/Assortment-Phillips-Washers-Kwokker-Stainless/dp/B0BTYFHNBF It's expensive, but it's nice to have for future projects if you fix a lot of things yourself though.. I went to Home Depot and bought them all separately, but had I know about a kit like this I would have got it. I'm always fixing something and I need a different size.
They were in good condition, but the stock connector got corroded, and they were losing connection. Upgrading seemed like the best solution, and I was surprised how much better the sound was after the upgrade also. They will surely break apart if you listen to music loud, someone else mentioned that happened to them too.
I believe it's #8 screw, 1/2" to 3/4" long, if you still haven't found it try a #8 with pan head from the hardware store and see how it fits.. I think #10 is too big. I will confirm by tomorrow and put a link in the video description to the proper screws.
If there are more than 2 pins, then it's not as simple as the speaker in the video. You will have to figure what the 3rd and 4th pin are for. Maybe the other 2 pins are for a tweeter? You will need a wiring diagram.
The car must be turned off completely: no key in the ignition. For extra safety the battery can be disconnected as well to make sure the stereo stays off, especially if the car has a remote starter. When the stereo is OFF , there will be no power coming to the speaker wires, which ensures the stereo amplifier doesn't short circuit.
Thanks! I know it's ridiculous!! There is no less quantity on amazon. Some speakers come with them, these Infinity do not, but JL Audio I believe does. You can find less quantity at AutoZone or similar auto part stores very likely, I bought mine from the local part store. So if you're lucky it comes with the speakers, and if not get from the part store.
@@CleverFix the removal of the stock speakers went well. I am installing the foam now. I do not know how you were able to install the big ring inside the door, my 2014 Corolla S Plus has a heavy set of wires which goes right over the area for the big ring inside of the door. Should I cut out a few inches of the ring? It would be like a big C instead of an O but that's the only thing I can think of. The group on cables seems very inflexible. Please advise boss.
@@joewhattoff8754 The screws that come with the bracket will be fine.. I just didn't like that they're so long and I prefer lock nuts myself.. but a lot of people use them and it's ok.
@@joewhattoff8754 Interesting, Yes mine had it too but there was still space. I'd try to push it out of the way and see if it stays.. all you need a tiny bit of space. I moved it when I removed the rivets, you can see it in that part of the video , so it has a bit of movement.. Worst case you have to cut it.. I can't think of anywhere to stick it, I think the NVX Baffle being silicone won't allow anything to stick to it.. if you can stick it to anything else that will work... maybe ring #2 on the back of the bracket ? Just make sure the speaker screws don't push it off, they'll probably screw into it... then you won't need to shorten the ring also.
The only issue i can see with this is that you put a speaker sealer on the speaker to make the sound not reflect into the door panel but then you cut the part that seals it to the door panel. Granted, the better option over rubber for the seal is to use foam ones, as they will simply crumble down till the seal is made between the speaker and door panel as you push it down to lock it in, the rubber thing you used is more for you to seal the speaker from water while also removing the reflections into the door panel, a foam one is obviously not going to keep water away.
I only cut it so it would fit, and once it's cut it fits snug with the grill in the door panel. Also the door panel has a round plastic "shield" on the side that meets with the speaker, so there should be no problem with sound entering between the panel and metal of the door. The foam ring kit does come with a ring for the door panel also, but I was not able to fit it in at the same time as the NVX rubber baffle. I prefer the baffle, especially because it add one more layer of isolation between the speaker and door metal. The sound is very nice after the upgrade. Thanks for the comment.
Did u hv amplifier pre-installed? Or this just the stereo nd speaker ? If yes wats the output of ur stereo ? Was the speaker response good without the amps?
Hey very informative video. This is gonna be my weekend project. Im a bit stuck while purchasing. You gave 2 links. Reference and kappa speakers. Are both compatible with front door? If i like lows more than highs which one do you suggest i should go with? (I do not wish to upgrade stereo )
Kappa is the better speaker in all aspects, including mids and bass, and it's even more sensitive than Reference, which means it produces more sound with less power, so the stock stereo is more suited for it. I used Reference to save money, but now I wish I went with Kappa. Yes both will work and there are tons of options .. pretty much any aftermarket 6.5" speaker pair should fit the brackets. The brackets specify even 6.75 will fit, but 6.5" is a much more common size. Thanks for the comment.
Great video! I’m planning to buy those infinities for my Corolla. Will the tweeters work if mounted in the rear doors? My 2020 Corolla SE only haves 2 tweeters under the windshield and 4 6.5s, 1 in each door. Thanks in advance!
The tweeters on the Infinity speakers? They work anywhere, nothing special required, hook up the speaker like any other speaker, and you get the bonus of having tweeters too. 😀
the tiny magnet is adequate for the whole structure of the woofer material. the magnet on the new speaker means the oem headunit will barely have the punch to make it produce sound, they're gonna sound lifeless. you need an amplifier if you replace the speakers.
The upgrade will make it sound better and more enjoyable.. you can see other's people comments who actually did the upgrade.. The new speakers will make it sound better over stock. It's not all about the magnet. The speaker wattage and sensitivity is what's important. The replacement speakers are 92db which is quite sensitive. See: www.crutchfield.ca/S-jT6r6R6BbXn/learn/learningcenter/car/speakers.html "If you have a low-powered factory stereo (typically 10-15 watts RMS per channel or less), speakers with high sensitivity ratings (over 90 dB) will make the best match. If you have a high-power system like an aftermarket stereo or external amplifier, then consider speakers with lower sensitivity ratings. Properly powered, they'll provide excellent sound quality." So stock stereo can power them, because they are high sensitivity and fairly low watts, to the point they are loud. I never had to turn it up more than 75%. If you're looking for super-loud or pro quality, you won't get that with a cheap speaker upgrade.. so that's all this is, a decent improvement for low cost. If you're going with an external amp, you'll want better less sensitive speakers that can handle more watts.. and some dynamat all over the doors, because they will rattle with that much power.
The back rest on the back seat is very easy to remove.. I was thinking of making a video just on removing that first, it also give you more cargo room, if you need to transport a lot of stuff, it helps.. I did that once to fit bigger boxes on the back seat. I'm planning to do the 6x9's soon..
@@CleverFix for the 2016 toyota corolla s earlier I had to pull two of the fold down seats to get the side panels off now that in other videos they don't mention that and I had to get the seat out which is easy and the rest of the panels were easy to pop off now when doing it all in reverse things can get a little tricky putting it all back
@@EdgarMendezz Polarity is determined by the wire colors and speaker terminal size. I'm pretty sure I explained that in the video see 7:31 and the positive terminal is the thicker one on the back of the speaker. The thin terminal is (-)
It's designed for this, so I assumed it's a closed cell foam, which is water resistant. I haven't actually tried to make it wet, but I'd be surprised if it does soak like a sponge.
Depends on the system. If you have an external amp, and high wattage speakers, as well as a subwoofer, then it would help to dampen vibrations. I've applied butyl rubber deadening to my entire car in the past, but I had an external amp, and sub, so it made more sense. Without high power, the difference will be small, and maybe the $$ is better spent on an amplifier, subwoofer, stereo upgrade, or better speakers.
I'm surprised by seeing a Corolla sold in the US comes with average speakers with tiny magnets. Herw in Pakistan, a Corolla comes with by default with speakers that you put in front door (with tweeter) and the rear 6x9 are also with large magnet and built in tweeter. I have a GLi variant and it's one model above lowest spec model. I purchased Alpine speakers and when I opened the door I was surprised to see high quality factory speakers.
I just did the upgrade following your video. I noticed that water from rain actually drips through the window seals and falls on the speaker and the inner panel. Does that happen to you?
I haven't noticed, but it is normal that a small amount water goes through the seal, that's why there are holes at the bottom of the door so it can drain out. How did you notice the water? I'm hoping if any water does get through, it would be repelled by the fastring, although it would probably absorb it..
@@CleverFix I noticed the water drips when I took the panel off to install the new speaker. It was after a rainy day so some rain still remained. I saw the interior of the panel was wet and on the old speaker there was a puddle of water. Probably why the old speakers died if it got flooded by water like that. I might have to look into the window seals to keep the water out then
@@philipcheung8910 Maybe you had very strong rains? If the seal is loose against the glass, that could let a lot of water in. Normally it should be tight to stop water, but a little gets through .
hey man looking to upgrade my corolla 2017 tweeters and woofers. i’m really confused as to if this car needs a crossover to the tweeters if i use the metra harness for each connection without having to cut anything.
The stock tweeters have a crossover built in, and the ones I used in my Tweeter replacement video also do. So yes the tweeters need a crossover, but it's built it on many of them already.
@@snaketripp If the component set you have comes with a separate crossover for the tweeter yes. 6.5" coax speakers don't typically need any crossover, since they play mids and highs with the tweeter in the middle. Some component speakers with tweeters and woofers (not coax) may have a crossover for the woofer too, but that's rare.. Coax 6.5" hooked up straight to the wire that's already there, and a tweeter with built in crossover is the easiest to install.. no need to find room and mount any crossover.. although there is room if the tweeters do have an external crossover.
No, the speaker wires run through the tweeter and I'm not sure why actually.. so that makes it a bit challenging to change the tweeters. I wonder if there's some sort of crossover in there. Otherwise it hardly makes sense that the speaker goes through the tweeter,.. but I'll look into it. Thanks.
@@CleverFix Have you checked into this? I think the tweeter does have a crossover, and I was wondering if the door speaker gets it's signal after the crossover. Wouldn't this mean that the high frequencies are filtered by the tweeter, meaning that the coaxial speaker on the door is not getting the full range signal and therefore not performing as it could?
Anything that insulates the speaker from vibrating the door will help, as long as the speaker is still mounted properly and not moving around. I'm not sure if anything will adhere to silicone properly though.
It looks like the 2016 Avensis model uses 6.5" speakers like mine, but check here for more details: www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/vehicles/Toyota/Avensis/2016 and you can change the model year to match yours. The bracket may not be the same though, but they sell brackets at that link I sent you, or you might find it on Amazon. Thanks for watching!
Could you please post a link for your parts for that install here please, especially the bolts and nuts that would be extremely helpful..Thanks in advance 😊 🙏
