The Zama M1-M7 carburetors use the RB-16 rebuild kit. The earlier Walbro MDC carburetors look the same, but the parts won't interchange. MDC's need a D1-MDC, D10-MDC or K10-MDC kit. Service procedures are generally the same.
I find when I'm rebuilding a Zama carb it's best to relax turn off the phone lock the door and scream obscenities at it until I have it fixed or have thrown it through a window.
Very good detailed video. These mini mac's are probably the worst design I have ever seen. You have to disassemble the entire saw to get the carburetor out! Once you do, now you have this complicated and poorly designed zama to deal with. A huge pain, but an interesting learning experience. A tip regarding getting the new gaskets to seal, soak them in a bit of oil first. They rarely seal right out of the packaging. Generally they swell up only after the fuel mix has made contact with them.
When I get a carb that crusty and varnished, I put it in the ultrasonic cleaner on its hottest setting for about an hour. While still hot and fresh out of the UC, I hit it with PB Blaster and compressed air. Wear a full face shield because it's going to get messy, but this method hasn’t failed me yet.
I once bought a 575XP husky with a Zama carb, I just could not get it dialed in. I sold the saw with full disclosure to another guy, a few weeks later he called me and told me he couldn't make it run right. I stick to Walbro's or Tillotson now, no issues.
very helpful. thanks. I find carb cleaner is not the best on cleaning crud especially etholol damage. Soak it in penetrating fluid for a few hours or even days can loosen up the crap. Then clean it up with carb or brake cleaner.
I wished I could just ship you my carb. I don’t know how to PM or send personal messages to the person making the video. Not smart enough to know how, damnit pisses me off not knowing how to do something. Wished the camera was closer to the carb so I would know exactly how each thing suppose to be and go back on. I just wished I knew if everything was put back correctly on my carb thanks this vid helps I’m just not exactly sure ya know I like to know exactly
The leaking needle may be dry. A little fuel on it may help seal it. Also I may not have been paying attention but did you remove both high and low speed screws and clean passages and ports thoroughly? I didn't see cleaning the low speed screw and passages
I've had good luck using acetone to dissolve thick varnish. Acetone will dissolve many plastics too so remove plastics from anything to be exposed to acetone or test the plastic first.
A sliver of electrical tape with the screw through it and taped to the end of the screwdriver acts almost like a magnetic screwdriver on your brass screws.
Leon: Can you just shake the carb and listen to hear if the check valve moves and makes a slight noise? I know you can do that on some 4 cycle carbs that have an internal check valve. Thanks!!