First of all your hair is your signature look. Second, i think you've built enough things to know what you're doing and shouldn't be questioned by amateurs or armchair fabricators. The channel is great, always enjoy your videos.
This right here is why I don’t spend my time making videos. I would just tell people it’s none of their business what I spend my money on or how I build my stuff. Ian your way to kind!!!
It seems like a lot of people don’t realize you’ve been on TV. Extreme 4 x 4. You are a professional and you do great work. But unfortunately welcome to RU-vid. Keep up the good work. Thanks 🍻👍
I'm glad you mentioned the frame. I bought a used car trailer, 7,000 gvw. The frame was bent from being overloaded. But it was all I could afford at the time. It is a Jackson (brand) trailer. I went to a local welding shop to get 2"x4" -1/8" to make some repairs and widen the trailer to the width of the fenders ( 8'). The guy at the shop said 1/8" was too thin and should be 3/16". I got the 3/16". The trailer frame from the factory is only 1/8". This lightweight frame could not handle more weight. But you said that yours is 5" channel. When I was looking for another one, 5" is what seems to be standard for heavier trailers. I wish my frame was heavier, but it works well for most things I haul. And now we have a 12,000 gvw trailer for bigger things like my almost classic 1964 Massey Ferguson tractor. Anyway, thank you for all your tips on your trailer and everything else. As for your hair, it looks perfect for you. I just know how it stays up when you pull off your welding helmet and doesn't get flat.
I'm a truck driver and just did some trailer wiring. I added a couple of those 7 pin junction boxes. The colors corresponded perfectly to my Peterbilt and semi-trailer. Maybe the heavy truck and trailer are where these wire color combinations came from. Big fan, been watching since you started with the power block.
For those questioning the winch mount, Ian wouldn't be winching out a rig axle deep in thick greasy mud. If anything, winching a non-powered or broken rig from flat dirt onto a flat and slick trailer bed. Regarding the axles, like he said he won't be hauling construction equipment. With hauling the same rigs as he always has, bigger and beefier will last longer and not wear out as easy.
I’m not really worried about your hair or your trailer. Enoch Benefield said the same thing I will: you’ve built enough stuff to know what you’re doing. I am glad you did the upgrading to your trailer, as I am progressively upgrading my own 18’ car hauler. Scotch locks hitting the “round file” when one of the LED markers was dim. I got most of them when I worked on it last. I still have a few more to go, along with installing a winch and possibly a tongue box. Basically, I think you upgraded the axles to allow you have that tongue box, battery, winch, dual spares, etc. The trailer base weight is what is factored into the over all GVWR. Of course, you have to subtract the unsprung weight from the overall empty trailer weight. I always have to remember that, before I load something on my trailer. Keep up the good work. And, I’ll take that VW when you’re bored with it.
Yup most 7k and 10k rated trailers share frames, crossmember spacing, etc... in some cases manufacturers go to a 6" frame of lighter weight to give the appearance of a beefier car hauler. With torsion axles you can make them taller or shorter just by spec'ing different arm angles. (0, 45 up, 22.5 down. Etc...) but honestly the bolting 5200s in is way way easier than finding center of suspension, and calculating where wheel center needs to be all over again, and welding the torsion brackets in place and squaring them up.
Not wanting to risk sounding like one of the haters! You can build your trailer However you want to! But for anyone listening you can order torsion axles with different degrees of angle on the arm, so you can make a trailer sit pretty tall. I liked your trailer mods, and yes, just one of the many things rvs screw up is the color code! You did it right!
I really like your programming. I watched you on power Nation all the time. My question is: What motivated your seperation from the Power Nation family. I am glad to see your still shooting videos. Thank You for doing it, it inspires me, and makes it easier for me to do my work when you use different materials and suppliers.
Hey Ian, "I just want to say", I have followed your advice, idea's & hoped I could build thing's as good as you have since the first day I watched you on TV! It is easy to recognize the negative comments from viewers who probably haven't built a damn thing off-road!!! Ask them what "anti-squat" is & they'll tell you they stand up when they take a dump! Second, it sounds like you were apologizing for the great work you did on that trailer - truly, you didn't need too! "I'm always waiting for the next video" As always, thanks for this one.
Man, these guys really picked your trailer build video apart. I thought it was a great build. Thank you for making the video you gave me a lot of great ideas.
I liked it so much I picked up an older equipment tri axle trailer, overall bed is 8x19.5. Flatbed portion 8x16. Wood, lights and tires is all it needs.
I can't believe how people can be so nit picky and scrutinize every thing you do. Thank you for everything you do. I apologize for anything I might have said in the past. Lol. I typically ask questions to improve on my ideas. You definitely have to have thick skin to put yourself out to the all knowing internet. Thanks again for the video. Looking forward to more build videos.
I was at the same point with my trailer but went the other route. Sold mine for more than I had into it and found a smoking deal on a 2020 10k rice. Still need to add a winch and some lights. I really like the center section with lights you made.
I've been looking at getting a trailer to haul my subcompact tractor(Branson 2515h) with the backhoe on it is at 5k LBS. Which is right around the weight carrying capacity of a 7k LBS trailer. So I got a 10.4k LBS trailer, all metal. Brand new for $4800. It has ramps and that's about it. Gonna get a spare tire for it and then see if I need a winch. May just use a come-a-long for now. I really liked the lights in the center that you did!
Ian with a 7 pin there is rv type and commerical type wiring most trucks are wired commerical yes they are different and wired almost oppisite of each other
I agree with all the trailer modifications you made. Great job on the build, and its got my gears turning for a trailer build i want to do in the future.
I heard the 14 bolt and ford 9" share patents. Its also beleived by some the 14 bolt pinion being so short is a weakness when it comes to pinion/ring gear deflection.
My go to for heat shrink these days is the water tight stuff, with basically hot glue inside. Not only does it add protection from the elements, but also much more strain relief over standard heat shrink.
@BigTireGarage for the win ty for clearing that up I too was wondering how you added the battery , as for the hair love the reply gotta love the trolls keep up the great work
I agree i sell aluma trailers and same frame work for all there car haulers tilt trailers just different wheels and brakes and the leaf's are even the same
I’ve often thought of 9”/Dana50 hybrid with the pumpkin upside down. Knowing that the pinion oiling would have to be addressed… It would make for a quite high pinion and no need for reverse cut gears….
Ian, glad to see you're still at it, I remember running into you at Target in SH years back (Extreme days). Questions, do you ever go out to wheeling in the country anymore? I havent been out there since the early 2000's, got really crowded last few times I was there. Also, do you ever let guests stop by the shop? I know you're slammed with projects, but would love to see the place in full, and what all you're working on.
Armchair experts poking holes in the work of a real deal fabricator. At least their giving you content for more videos! ;) Keep up the great work, Ian. Love your content.
Just a thought for the wiring on the trailer, I was doing a welding repair for a customer, and for the first time I've ever seen a 1/2" in. Diameter Thin Wall (1/16" in. / 0.0652" in., ) Tubing the whole length of the trailer (Located approx. 4-6 inches from the Right / Passenger side, , drilled about mid-center through all the supports) and was used also to crossover from one side of the back of the trailer; to the other side. Just a thought that if anybody see's this they can pass it along. I thought it was a great idea.
Since most of your rigs are highly modified or even built from scratch do you have any problems getting them licensed, registered or insured or do you just not drive them on the road?
I love reading the comments, it's amazing how people who have never built anything have so much knowledge on the subject at hand. You should pay more attention to what Ian is teaching you for free. He has tons of knowledge on fabrication he was a teacher on the subject and knows more about it than anyone you could name. And really talking trash about Ian's hair, get a life.
Ian thanks for making great content over the years. I am currently gathering parts to swap a 350 and 700R4 into my CYJ. I have already replaced the axles with tons and 3 linked the front and four linked the rear. Would you suggest doing an reverse Manuel valve body before putting the transmission in? Thanks.
I am not sure if there is a reverse manual valve for the 4l60 that has engine braking.....it has to have that to be useful off road. Most of the drag racing vb do not have that
Hey Ian don’t let ‘m make fun of your hair….hell if I still had some hair I wear it like that too👍 On the trailer we do a lot of trailers for spirit’s marketing companies and I agree with you on the 7pin harness’s & box’s all we’ve done in the past cpl years have had the brown wire stop/turn labeling and worst of all black wire 12v …wtf…I reliable as well. Keep up the good work 👌always enjoy your videos.
I've been seeing more rigs with triangulated 4 link setups running the triangulation on the lower links and with the narrow end on the chassis crossmember. I'm sure it's largely a packaging decision, but are there any drawbacks to setting up the links like this vs a standard triangulated 4 link with the narrow separation on top of the axle housing?
I never thought about using something like the hydomat for crawling with low fuel in the tank, i guess thats why when i had my 22r yotas alot of the hardcore guys would run just propane
Here's a question would it still be a good idea to run propane like the got propane kits in say an ls motor swap scenario, isn't it cheaper than gasoline anyways
Now you are going to have to rewire the tow vehicle to match the way you have the trailer wired. Or you will have to cut the molded plug off and wire a new plug to the way you have the colors. RV's use house wiring colors ( Black + White - ) the yellow wire is the center terminal in the plug used for reverse lights on a 7 wire plug. Once you plug your vehicle in you will figure everything out blue is always brakes and black is 12 volts on a 7 wire plug. It's good you checked out the frame on your trailer before adding the heavier axles, some people will add heavier axles and expect the frame to take the extra load, then wonder why the frame bent or broke. I can't understand why people buy 24 foot enclosed trailers with 3500 pound axles, when the trailer weighs 4500 lbs empty. Just putting a car in the trailer you are at max load, I know people that would put all there racing equipment in the trailer too. The springs would be completely flattened out, shackles laying against the equalizer. In heavier loads I like slipper springs or torsion springs, with shorter springs on your trailer do you find one set of shackles wile flip to the bottom of the equalizer? I welded chains to the axle plates and the frame to limit travel so the shackles can't flip under the equalizer. Keep an eye on that especially when you go over large speed bumps or uneven ground.
I have a 1977 dodge w200 a old retired army truck a m882. It has power steering by arm strong. What is the most economical way to convert it to power steering. I've seen alot about reverse steering box, different style pitman arm ever on the power vs non power steering
Hey Ian I was wondering about lunch Box locker choices. I have an 01 super duty with a 10.5 Sterling in the rear. It has factory limited slip but the cost of rebuilding the clutches is more than I wanted to spend. So I was thinking lunch Box locker But from my understanding that won't fit in the Carrier of a limited slip unit. Do you know of any lunchbox lockers that will fit in the limited slip Carrier, what are my options here?
hey Ian, Thanks for what you do and are doing. I got a question i need an answer to.......I currently have 16" 2.0 fox coil overs going on my stretched one ton LJ project, why? because thats all i could find on marketplace. LOL...I know its too much for a jeep with traditional crossover steering at least until i finally put some full hydro under it, but can i run some 14" coils to lower the ride height and some limit straps to keep them at 14" 's? I ask because you would know, and i cant get a straight answer from anybody. Thanks again for doing what you do.....Hope to hear from ya. -Vick
Love the budget builds. I have a jku and don't have alot of money for any power upgrades. Is their a truly affordable v8 upgrade that you can do on a jku sahara. 3.6??
Setting up the Sterling is a little more difficult than a 14 bolt...add to that you are normally upgrading front unit bearings to 35 spline on the 99-04 Super Duty 60...it is easy to change em to 8x6 5
Keep up the great content and God bless you with all of your talents. How do you pick out of all the questions or do you have someone help you go through the questions to help you widdl them down.
Ian, I have a question for you about limit strap’s. I don’t recall seeing you use them on your projects that you build. I am adding a metal cloak lift on my Jeep and one of the things that instructions stresses is not to use the shocks as limits on the axles they are not designed to do it. What are your thoughts on the use of limit straps should they be used or are the shocks adequate.?
When it comes to questioning the plate for the jack, what load does the viewer think is on the jack? To the viewer the jack needs to handle basically what you will have as your tongue weight. Not the entire load that is on the trailer. But I will also raise the question about stabilizers at the rear of the trailer not being used when driving on or off. Don't be lazy.
@@BigTireGarage the struts that attach at the rear corners of the trailer to support it while loading. Also not a fan of those that don't use ramps. These things exist for a good reasons and will help the trailer last longer.
@sell your trailer, and buy new vs your rebuild. There is tremendous value in knowing what you have. Good call I say. Plus you got a YT video out of it! Short vid of you just go buy a trailer haha.
It's kinda stupid but somehow funny now I bought a new trailer a few years ago and the lights didn't work so the sales lot gave me a new harness and knocked the price down . Got it home and found the wiring in a conduit tube welded to the frame ok but these sharp witted people ran the wires in the tube then welded it to the frame and you got it MELTED WIRING with a side of grounded 😕🥴😆😡
I’m a welder/fabricator with a Mechanical Engineering degree. I didn’t question anything you did on the trailer rebuild. I would turn out similar product from my shop. I’m fixing to do a rebuild on my old trailer and am going to do a similar below deck winch mount. @goventurefab #goventurefab
