This is a semi detailed video of the disassembly and diagnostic of a 2003 Suzuki outboard 115 this same process applies to most 4 cylinder Suzuki outboards.
Very good video.. Suzuki outboards are very well-made. Had this done on my df115 a few years back at the dealer. Cost me $1100 parts and labor. If it ever needs it done again, I'll do it myself, thanks to your videos.
If you have enough various wrench sizes you can actually pull the VST up through the top without removing the intake manifold. It's tricky getting the VST mounting bolts started when you put it back together but at least you don't disturb all of the electrical, fuel and water connections you have to get off to get the manifold off. Great video though.
Hey! I just wanted to say thank you for this video! I watched it a couple times before doing this job on my suzuki df115 and it helped alot. Aloha from Hawaii!
Hey, my engine symptoms have been cleared. It turned out that the protective sleeve of the oil pipe leading to the nozzle of the high-pressure oil pump had hardened and blocked the oil pipe. I removed the protective sleeve and the engine returned to normal.Thank you very much for your guidance and help
Hey mate I have the same motor that seems to throw codes and get stuck in limiter if I hit a big wave like the engine isn’t getting enough fuel or is sucking air, took it to the mechanics and he replaced the ‘lift pump’ not exactly sure what that is but it is still happening. Seems to run fine unless we hit a big wave. Would it be worth looking into this pump for the fix
Hey I replaced my high speed pump and filter because it started having symptoms temperamentally of trying to start it but stalled immediately anyways it probably needed it soon so let’s call it preventative maintenance at this point My question is it has a non related issue of stalling when I come off the throttle fast to neutral any ideas
hello I have a suzuki 90 df and gasoline is getting into the carter, it could be that the fuel vapor separator float needle is stuck and the gasoline is getting through the rocker cover, thank you very much
Hi, i have a Suzuki 140hp 4 stroke outboard engine. The engine starts ok, and it runs good until 3000rpm. If I go above 3000rpm the engine starts to loose power and lower the rpms until I lower the throttle to 3000rpm. I am not sure what the problem is. I know you have more experience than i do. Any advice ?
Great video!! Really informative. My 2016 Suzuki runs great until I keep it at rpm's over 4800 for over 6 min or more. Then it slows all the way down to 2800 range and then jumps back up.. Keeps doing this until I slow her down to under 4k. Can't figure out why
That sounds like a fuel restriction between the tank and the engine. If the lines are more than a few years old the insides of them start to separate due to ethanol fuel and at higher rpm they will collapse and cause a restriction. Sometimes can be the ball that will go bad also but more often it is the line itself. Try hooking a small auxiliary fuel tank to the engine and go run it see if the problem persists.
@@diyboatrepair8005 makes total sense! What I also found in my investigation is that the electrical lines to the engine from the helm broke lose from the tie-downs under the deck and it started to hang very low almost touching the water. This weekend I shored up that line back to the decking and pontoon and got it out of the way of the water flow. We didn't have any problems after that. So it also looks like it was somehow "crimping" the line when the boat would hit higher rpms thus pushing the stern down lower into the water and possibly shorting out the signal?
@@diyboatrepair8005 if the bulb was bad the pump would suck it flat. if the ball isnt sealing properly with an electric fuel pump that wouldnt cause his issue most likely. but agree there is a restriction somewhere.
Hello! I would like to ask, my Suzuki 90, the engine cramps at 4000 RPM for about 5-10 minutes, then can't accelerate, feel there is not enough fuel supply, have to go back to the idle, is this also about the high pressure pump problem?
Hi Ben, In my experience I have known the fuel pump to fail completely instead of intermittently pump at a certain RPM, I would look towards having your injectors cleaned, as I have ran into that issue before and caused the exact same symptoms and you can usually have the injectors cleaned for about $100 at a local shop if you remove them yourself. Could also be a fuel restriction somewhere in the system but that would usually not be at a single rpm most times you would notice it in a more broad rpm range. Good luck!
@@diyboatrepair8005 Thank you very much for your reply. You are absolutely right.One of the problems I was very confused about was that the symptoms all appeared at high RPM, and once the symptoms appeared for the first time, they would also appear at low RPM.In order to verify this point, I did a verification today, and the driving speed was not higher than (3200 RPM) today, and I also drove for 3 rounds, without any symptoms of the previous.Is it a syringe problem or something else?Could you please send me an email? I made a short symptom video a few days ago, and I hope to send it to you to help me judge the problem, so that I can find the way to repair it. Thank you very much!
@@that2doortahoe274 corrosion on cylinder head passing gasket had it welded and skimmed plus new gasket all good now no water in oil but on idle still a small amount of vibration may need advanced timing??
Hello, I have a 2007 df250, when I go above 4000 rpm, the engine shuts off, but if I stay bellow 4,000. I can run all day with no issue. Any ideas what I should be looking at? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Ty
I have suzuki df30 year 2019; it starts very easy and goes on without any problem. After 5-10 minutes above 4000 rpm, rpm starts waving and losing power. Under 4000 rpm it goes on without any problem. Is the problem low or high pressure pump. I would be happy if you share your experience.
Sounds like a restriction in the fuel line somewhere, I would say maybe try a different fuel line and primer ball from tank to engine and see if the problem continues.
nice video really enjoyed ==== i have a 115df milky oil runs like a sewing machine is there a freeze plug in the mid section that could have caused my problem thank you Jim...
It could be the exhaust plug in the side of the engine holder is corroded out or it could be that the head has corrosion and is allowing water into the cylinders, both are not a terrible job to do and if you find that the exhaust plug is corroded out on the side, find a good local aluminum welder and have him grind down the plug and weld it shut with an aluminum plate. But you should change the oil and fire it up not hooked to water and rev it up real good for about ten or fifteen seconds and change the oil and repeat until you get clean oil and then do your diagnosing. I have seen water in the oil run fine for weeks and I have seen it ruin a motor in a day or two. So it seems you caught it at a good time!! Best of luck!
