I’ve only just received my shiny new black X100V after waiting six months for it to be delivered … and this excellent little video has really made my day! I’m in the midst of a difficult COVID infection but managed to take the camera outside into the early autumn sunshine. Using this technique on a still life … well … that final eye-opening moment when I turned the ISO dial to bring it all together was amazing!! Thanks for this brilliant video!
You are the reason I bought x100v yesterday. Till receiving it I will continue see your vids... I believe I will have issues with focusing (as I have Sony as main camera)... Will see...
MIND BLOWN!!! Great explanation. Never used a flash before. New to photography as video is my thing so this was awesome! :D Can;t wait to get the V now! Roll on Friday... Anyway, I'll stop clogging up your inbox now haha. Thanks again!
Excellent techniques, Booray! Thank you. I knew all this (from some studio training) but I had forgotten, and your video gave me a chuckle and some very useful technique. I used to live in Tampa (MacDill AFB, flying little Vipers), so I know what you mean by brightness.
Seems like it's a fair amount of variables to keep track of if you're quickly doing a bunch of things in the field. This is supposed to be a street camera, supposed to be quick quick. You can't get the same proper exposure with an automatic setting ? I recall my Sony RX 100 version 3 had auto fill in flash settings and it always gave proper exposure for silhouetted foreground subjects. whatever it did, it was great and all I had to do is select auto fill in flash.
I recently had the problem that my subject was dark, the background scenery bright. I used flash and it lit my subject but the scenery was blown out. Thanks for this timely video, I will try this 🙂
Shutter speed could be affecting flash here in this situation. The flash duration at max flash power might be slower than the 1/1000th shutter speed (no official Fuji specs) which would make the camera not capture the full flash exposure. You could try testing it also at 1/500th and 1/4000th with same ISO, f/2.8, and max flash power to see if the flash exposure changes.
@@BoorayPerry problem is in a shining around the Sun or Moon. I would like to have posibility to get some sort of flat edge(without photoeditor). I suspect I'm adjusting the white balance wrong or something other
Great video, very interesting, thank you! I'm guessing there isn't much point in adjusting flash compensation to +2? I wasn't sure if the camera was already accounting for this in setting ISO, and thus the flash may not necessarily be at full power.
That’s fascinating Booray. To the best of my knowledge, raising the ISO is going to increase the amplification of the signal but by itself shouldn’t allow the flash to throw more light on your face if it’s already at full power. Maybe the flash wasn’t at full power at 1/1000 @ 320 ISO and went to full power when you went to 1/2000 @640 ISO. That could explain the increase in the flash’s light on your face since your exposure was the same between the 2 shots. That’s my best educated guess ;-)Thanks for the awesome video!
Yes it does not put more light on your face but if you amplify the signal on the sensor then the light that is on your face is increased. If you raise your ISO and you raise your shutter speed the same amount then all of the ambient light is unaffected while the light from your flash will be twice as bright in relation to the image. I tend to describe things the way that you see them as opposed to the technical way that they work because it's less confusing 😁
So you forced the shutter to 2000 to reduce ambient to keep background where you want it because you raised the iso to allow more flash in (without bringing more ambient light to the background)?
Thought the x100v had some fangdangle shutter which could shoot faster with the flash or is it electronic shutter. All the same this is golden advice I’m going to practice this to better understand the controls. Thanks for the Top tip!
@@BoorayPerry so I just tried your methods, all be-it indoors and quite dark. yet get this with those settings the screen is dark yet this clever little camera still focuses with a pitch black evf-screen. I’ve learnt something as the flash exposure stays the same, I think.. will practice some more to fully get it
Thanks for the tutorial! At 4:55 you popped the filter on and took a picture. Both the iso and shutter speed changed, were you still in manual mode? What settings did you change. I thought the shutter speed would remain at 1/2000 after you put on the ND filter.
I was in manual mode for the aperture but the camera was setting the ISO and shutter speed. There are two ways you can do this sort of photography. You can set everything yourself or you can let some of the cameras auto features do it for you and just use exposure compensation to move the settings. Basically, the auto settings will get you in the ballpark and then you can use exposure compensation to fine tune it.
Whats trigger did unuse sir for supporting LS...cause on market alot of trigger pro n advance for hss, im looking trigger for support LS up to 1/4000..ty for ur video 🙏🏿
Thanks for your video! I don't really understand why Shutter Speed doesn't affect the flash's light. What is happening at the physical level? If the shutter speed is set to 1/2000, my gut feel tells me the sensor is exposed to the flash and ambient light both for 1/2000 of a second, so what's the difference? Does the camera adjust the flash intensity automatically, based on the shutter speed? Or is it because the subject is much closer, so the light bouncing off of it is more "concentrated" than the ambient light?
The flash is a burst that moves at the speed of light. All of it will get in before the shutter closes. The shutter can't open and close faster than the speed of light.
Speed of light is the same for both ambient and flash light of course. The difference is the extremely short duration of flash light, faster than the shutter can move, whilst the ambient light enters all the while the shutter is open.
Hey Booray, I just picked up the Godox TT350F and am loving it! I’ve been using it on TTL and if I want more flash power I just increase on the flash itself. I’m curious, since TTL is so good what would the advantage of manual be? Would I be able to bump up or down the flash power more than is available on TT-L via the click wheel?
The main advantage of manual is that you can set it and you will get the same exact flash power over repeated shots. I use manual sometimes when I'm doing a bunch of shots in the same spot like when I'm shooting formal pictures on a wedding
Thanks for this great video. One question: At about 4:50 you discussed decreasing exposure by 4 stops with the ND filter and said that the camera would then "adjust its other settings to make the picture look good." What seemed to happen was that from ISO 200 and 1/2000 of a second, the ND resulted in ISO 320 and 1/450. It seems to be only a little more than 2 stops, or at least less than 3 stops less light. That''s what let you tone it down another stop with the EC, correct? Presumably if the ND filter had really reduced exposure by 4 stops, there would be no more room for any further negative EC, since you'd have the forced f2 aperture, maximum shutter speed and minimum ISO. Why didn't the ND reduce exposure by the full 4 stops? Thanks!
It did reduce it by 4 stops. The problem is that the second exposure didn't do a 4 stop correction. One of the problems with shooting outside is that subtle changes in light or metering will make the camera give you 2 different readings on subsequent images.
@@BoorayPerry Ah OK, thanks. Presumably if the second exposure had been a 4 stop correction, that would have been it as far as further corrections downward -- no negative EC would then have been possible (at f2). Many variables!
@@BoorayPerry One final question -- did you use the Fuji equivalent of evaluative metering for the whole scene? Or did you just meter the background for these shots? Or your subject? Thanks!
It was fun following along with your lesson :) I think I got it. Interested to hear if using only 2 or 3 stops of the ND filter would have allowed 1/2000s and a lower ISO value, with similar exposure results? Wish I had an x100 to experiment with :D
Pound for pound the best fighter...err... instructor on YT. What makes a great teacher is their ability to explain the topic in a way we can understand and retain that knowledge.
I'm sorry, but ALL light is traveling at the speed of light; that's why it's called the speed of light. The difference between ambient light and flash isn't the SPEED at which the light is traveling, it's the DURATION. The duration of small flash units is typically somewhere around 1/10,000 to 1/20,000 second. The speed of any given photon from that flash is the same as any given photon from the sun or a street light: 186,000 miles per second or 299,792,458 meters per second.
I never said that the flash was faster than the ambient light. I said it was faster than the shutter speed. I guess I thought that everyone understands that a flash is a flash of light. That's why it's called a "flash."
@@BoorayPerry You said that the reason the brightness of the flash wasn't affected by the shutter speed was because "your flash fires literally at the speed of light; much faster than any shutter speed." That's not the reason. Ambient light also travels at the speed of light, and yet it IS affected by the shutter speed. The reason shutter speed doesn't affect the brightness of the lit subject is because the DURATION of the flash is shorter than the duration of the shutter being open. I'm sure that everyone DOES understand that a flash is called a flash because it's a flash of light; but not everyone understands flash duration, and how it effects the balance between ambient light and flash light, and it has nothing to do with the speed of light because ALL LIGHT travels at the speed of light. You made a mistake; be a man and admit it.
@@seikibrian8641 I assumed that people would get it. If you didn't get it, I'll explain it to you. But, if you just want to berate me because you don't think I explained it in a way that you would explain it then I encourage you to make a video where you explain it all properly so that all the people I confused will finally understand it. Enjoy!
@@BoorayPerry If you present yourself as an expert, you need to present accurate information. And stop with the condescending "if you didn't get it, I'll explain it to you" nonsense. Obviously I DID get it, else I couldn't have caught the error and explained it properly. And I didn't "berate" you, I just corrected you. But since I seem to have bruised your shallow ego, I'll just stop now.
You didn't bruise my ego friend. What you did was come at me over a nit-picking thing. I get corrected on mistakes all the time and I welcome it but you are putting way too much effort into correcting some guy who makes videos on You Tube. :)
I hear you. There is only so much magic you can do with a small, built-in flash. Also, for a lot of people, learning how to work with your flash to affect depth of field and ambient light can be pretty magic. This is the first step on your flash journey, the magic comes later. :)
