You explained it very well Unlike most people they talk so much and do very little of showing me what to do you showed us step-by-step which that's the way it's supposed to be done thank you very much
Air rises. You use the syringe to push the fluid up from the bottom toward the cup. Just fill the syringe with 20mils of fluid, put a small amount of oil in the cup, and push the fluid through to the cup.
This makes more sense and worked better for me as the fitting on the cup was not air tight and was letting air in. I just had to refill the syringe and empty the cup as the system ended up full of air.
@@homeandtravel7235 I still haven’t done mine. I was waiting for confirmation that this is not what they are doing in the video. Gonna try it. Seems to make more sense.
Sry for my english, can u make a vidéo to show us how to set a disc brake? At the receiption of my XF900 my back disc brake is not tighten enough ! Thank you
If the bike is having issues braking after following the bleed tutorial, then it might have some issues with the rotor. If there is oil or some other material on your rotor, that will cause the brake to fail. Are there any local bike shops in the area? It might be worth the time to get the bike checked out.
I was able to do it with just repeatedly topping off the hole at the master cylinder and barely flicking the lever to get the bubbles out. I went from no lever to full lever with only a dozen or so flicks. I was pleasantly surprised by how easy it was to say the least.
i continued to do that but i stayed there doing that for like 10 minutes and air would still go thru the line so I stopped doing it started to get annoyed
Get a couple of business cards and put them on either side of the rotors. Apply the brake, then tighten the bolts. This way, that eliminates the shifting of the caliper when you are tightening them down and ensures perfect Clearance. You're welcome 😁
Update, after much thought i decided to do a "reverse bleed" pumping the fluid from the caliper to the lever where the fluid cup was attached as i figured the thread was not tight enough on there and letting air in. My bike only has plugs not bleed nipples so the thread sits inside the hole. Managed to get all the air out and brakes working perfect again.
When threads are of two different materials, plastic funnel into metal fitting, for example, it is helpful to turn it in the opposite or loosen direction applying light pressure. You will feel a slight "bump" as the threads align and then you can tighten with less concern about cross threading the plastic threads.
Good job,some tips that When you bleed the air at the lever end, install the Robert clamp on the hose of the syringe and close it, so that the brake fluid will not flow to the syringe and improve the efficiency of air bleed
First, the video was very helpful. I have an Aventon bike with Zoom breaks and I had to bleed them after riding it about 50 miles. I keep reading their are issues with these brakes. But, thank you!
By chance do you have the diameter of the fitting you used to bleed these? I ordered the metal tip version of the listed bleed kit, and none of the cup fittings seal to the lever bleed fitting. The one that seems close feels like it wants to cross thread, or is bottoming out against something in the lever.
Wouldn't be more efficient if you pushed oil through the syringe back to the funnel at the top? That way the gravity helps with bleeding too and you get more leverage.
As a professional bicycle mechanic of 25 year's I was wondering if when you said "Shimano replica," you meant Chinese bootleg, counterfeit, knockoff. Please stop specing your bikes with this garbage. Hydraulic disc brakes that don't work are NOT NORMAL. It's a pain in the ass
Hello, I have a question. I want to match a Shimano brake caliber with Zoom brake lever. What sort insert/olive need I for the brake hose of the shimano brake caliber?
when i get oil on my pads and rotors i boil the pads and rotors in a pot..It works very well..after about a minute in boiling water the oil will come off and rise to the surface then try and scoop the oil out with a spoon and just leave them in there until no more oil floats on the surface of the water..Hope this works for others :)
They move very slowly through the oil mefium, and you are applying a continuous vacuum at the syringe body so the motion of the fluid is continuously toward the syringe body... even when you aren't actively pulling the handle the remaining vacuum you have applied continues to pull fluid out for a while.
Can any one maybe help me. I had problems wirh my brakes last year. So I took it in to a shop. The guy fixed it. A week ago my rear brake became spongy . So I checked your guide. I bleeded it . Its working now again BUT it came to my attention that the guy at the bike shop never listened to me last year when i told him about the tiny washer. He must have not put it back. So now i dont have it anymore. I also reckon it could be the cause that let my rear break getting air . Any idea what size this washer is?
Sorry for the delay, so we unfortunately don't know the exact size for this washer, but if it is a Zoom brake, we could supply you with a replacement brake handle, line, and caliper if needed.
Interesting your rear brake is on the left side. Used to it being on the right. Thanks for the good video. Just recently got my ebike with hydraulic breaks but this will come in handy someday.
Thats because in uk and some other countries we have the front brake lever on the right as its usually the dominant arm/hand and left for rear, so when we brake you would use dominant hand first, i always been of the understanding brake front first, rear last. European set up are usually left front, right rear.
This seems like a common issue and happened to me after a few months of riding, my question is how does air get in there if it is a closed and sealed system?
Hi, Nick thanks for commenting, this issue is pretty common on bikes. Yes you shouldn't have to do it a lot, however this is something that just has to be done on a bike. Air can get into the system in a variety of ways such as when being shipped, a screw just didn't get tightened all the way, etc... However this issue is very simple to fix as pictured in the video.
One more thing. I bled accordindly. Still very week brake effect. Because the main cylinder was stuck in its place, did not move. It's not always the air bubbles, but simply corrosion a bit....
i wish i never bought my Zoom Breaks.. Turns out they were EU model or something so the back break is on the left and the front is on the right..can i just switch the hoses? or do i need new breaks?
Yes, you should be able to switch the brake lines sides to make it more comfortable. It does take a bit more work to do, so we would recommend taking it to a local bike shop if needed
The yellow spacer is meant to hold the caliper pistons apart so that they don't push in on each other when squeezing the brake handle. If the caliper is completely empty (no pads or spacer) and the pistons squeeze out too far, then they could pop out of the caliper
In certain cases they can be but you might want to check the prices on good cable brakes, avid bb's are not cheap, your still need to replace cables over time, pads wear quicker with cable brakes due to brake fade as they require harder squeezes and longer contact to give the same force required to stop, once you can bleed hydraulic, you would only be required bleed once every 6-12 months or when air gets in.
Great content. I think the practical thing to do is to close the hole in the caliper after you finish replacing the oil and take out any bubble of air through the lever. Just make sure you move your lever in the four directions. Up, down, left and Right.
What are you talking about lever? I’m new at this. I’m about to attempt to bleed the zoom brakes on my trike and I’m absolutely in terror. Lol. What lever?
The brake pistons should be able to squeeze on to the rotor, regardless of the size/width of the pads. In other words, if the pads are worn, then the brakes should still be able to reach to the rotor. This does depend on the system and type of brakes though, as there are many different styles and types. If there are any concerns about the brakes not being able to reach the piston, I would recommend replacing the brake pads just to be safe
Hey, thanks for this video. I have my first sp from klever. I don't know where the oil screw is on my brakes. It looks a little bit different then yours. I made a picture but is there a way to send it to you? It would be great to know where the oil screw is.
Gotcha, so unfortunately there isn't a way to send a picture through here, but as far as the brakes and screws looking different, it is possible the brake systems on the bikes are different between models. The Zoom brakes we worked on here use the Mineral oil, but the other brands might use a different oil
Thank you. I tried a different method my first time and it was a failure and a mess. Following this was effective, simple, and very clear. Also very little mess at all! From my failed attempt, I did get some mineral oil on the pads. Will it wear down over time or do I need to replace?
We recommend changing the brakepads to be sure, but you can sand the pads down to fix it. Mineral oil on the brake pads will cause an awful grinding sound so changing the pads entirely will resolve the issue
This was an older bike model, and we used a EU style brake system on the bike. For all the newer bikes sold in the US, they should come with the right-hand rear and left-hand front style.
You might want to double check the brake pads/rotors to see if any oil got on them. If so, then they will be making a heavy grinding sound when the brakes are applied. Unfortunately the only solution would be to replace the pads, but it would solve the noise issue.
And at the start you highlighted the position of the caliper as horizontal as possible. Down you just unscrewed the brake and just hanging around. Should be held upwards or more fixed, etc. Better to do it by two people, to control all movements. Other goid video, many thanks!
Connecting Caliper with syringe 1st (Bottum part) is basic then upper Lever cup, and since air will go upwards add juice in the caliper to the upper cup. Thanks, i needed to know about the torx and adaptor sizes. the rest being standard, TYVM Cheers & ride Safe. To clean i prefer contact cleaner, it do not leave any oily residue as alcohol do, test it yourself you will see a cleaner end result with ether (contact cleaner) sorry for spelling errors!! ADDITION-> About using levers to center the caliper; My trick is simply to repeat that process after a certain amount of kilometrage ,loose the bolts; Squeeze the lever and tighten the bolts again , depending on milage &quality of pads+caliiiper used. i think i center them about 2-3 shot before pads need to be replaced , but i think i use pads a tad over 60% and replace em up. My safety being worth a lot more than pads in addition hydraulic brake pads price did drop significantly in the last 3-5 years . I would like to add that once again do not stick into any SUV, CAR, BUS, 10Wheeler's, 45' Trailor Van, or any GAS-POWERED PIECE of (I OWN THE STREET) shit attitude - STAY OUT OF THEM BLIND SPOT...... Not only can it hurt you bad BUT IT'S LIKLY THAT IT WILL KILL YOU . i type this to warn all for yet another cyclist was struck and losse life in my city ; 23YO so so sad . I'm so sad now about this, my home made e bike is very powerfull and fast . the most usefull driving habit i develloped with ebike riding experience is to stick right up their front wright wheel , where they can clearly see me ( when speed is a match , 40-60 KPH ....) funny fact if they insiste really to go in front at that speed... they will get the cops attention and i will go back into stealth mode , thinking about that is helping my morale! and your's also Cheers y'all 2&3 wheeler's fanatics
We purchased this Vivi 27.5” electric bike and a Tentaquil 26” electric bike for our 13 and 14 year olds. ru-vid.comUgkxUiL0GnyDjP32RJdd660sP8mZk4CRLTCJ The Vivi was much easier to put together. With the Vivi, there was a video link to assist with assembly which made the process easier to follow (we did put the handlebars on upside down, but it was a quick and easy fix). With the Tentaquil, the assembly was not as simple to follow, but after we messaged the company for an assembly video, it was easier and they did respond quickly. The other major differences were that the Vivi has a grip throttle on the right handle (like a motorcycle) and the Tentaquil has a push throttle that you use your thumb to activate. The monitors were also different, so if you’re looking for something specific in terms of changing the bikes functions, pay attention to what the monitor offers. We were really impressed with the overall quality and functionality of both bikes, but if you’re looking for more power and an easier assembly, definitely go with the Vivi!
Man these brakes fail like crazy. Cheap bikes trying to up sale by saying it has hydraulic disc brakes, then give you these that fail a lot, and have a bleed fitting most shops will have to buy since they don’t use any normal mineral oil fitting.
The cameraman jabbering didn’t add anything to this video. He tried to be witty, and interrupted the tech while he was putting the brake pads back in, he should’ve shut his yap
Those rear hub motor fat tires with spokes are the end of me. as soon at the wheel gets out of tru, they start failing bad, dont handle well under pressure, so happy I got a alloy rim
I think to avoid any more of a headache I'm just gonna take off my handle soak the whole thing down and brake Fluid... Rig some kind of syringe and pump it up from the bottom.. I done return to bleeding kits... And one said it was for a zoom hydraulic brake.. Before I bought my E bike I thought that sounds like A headache... Hydraulic breaks.. And sure enough that's the one thing that don't work on my bike.
Thanks for the tutorial i was about to just go back to cable ones, saved me like 50 bucks i just need a bleedkit and oil for them lol. but personally if i get anything on my rotors i put some acetone on a towel and clean them with that, works like a charm.
due to the fitting screw sizes of my kit, i had to use the cup at the bottom and syringe at the top. Worked perfectly and was easy to keep an eye on the level of oil in the cup. the retail shop that sold my scooter quoted me NZD 250 to do this, I bought the kit through Amazon for $20. spent $50 to get free delivery and now I've learned a new skill. The retail store did me a favor :) Thanks for your video was a great help.
This is very helpful i accidently squirted all the oil out of the tube cause i didnt relies you could do that if you pressed the brake lever with the pads disassembled
Very easy to understand single caliper and single lever... Can you do a demonstration of bleeding a Twin HD (2 mirrored caliper) (1 hand lever) system..? like those use on recumbent trikes where the person only has 1 lever to operate both front brakes..? This is very tricky and getting bubbles out of a 3 way line needs special attention and skill.. Thanks.
Currently, we don't have any models with the specifications that you described. If we did have one though, we could make a video for you! There are probably some other videos tutorials available on this subject though.
@@cyrushertech hello.. tadpole trikes with TWIN HD (1 lever, 2 calipers) are so rare now that no one has made a video.. I called Tektro/TRP CS... they are great at stepping you thru it on the phone but not even they (the manufacturer of TWIN brake systems) has a video.. Thanks
@@starlessmystery6429 I use a Pulsar vibrating tooth brush banded to the hose to move air bubble up and out.. Good luck. On a dual pull hydraulic brake, it is easier to set the trike rear end up on a bucket.. then rotate the reservoir level and tap/vibrate. Twin brakes are easier on a bicycle.. Trikes are a challenge.
Thanks for the video. This is the first time that I manage to fix my brakes myself. They work perfectly now. And it is thanks to this video and believe me I have seen many videos before with instructions how to bleed brakes😁
Just got my first escooter with hydraulic brakes and need to bleed them. This is a great video. Waiting on that exact bleed kit from Amazon. Can’t wait. Thank you for the vid.
I was wondering why yours were "upside down" it finally occurred to me that these are meant to be setup with the rear on the left and the front on the right and mine are the ones that are upside down lol
No, either he is used to a motorcycle or has then set up the British way. They are not designed for a particular side, you can have either lever be front or rear.
Good video. Also highlights how second class this Zoom brake is. Down there should be a more sophisticated screw, a car type closure screw with the hole, to close the hole under the brake fluid around. And not to expose the bottom hole to air etc during trying to screw back again. Zoom hydraulic brake is second class. I've changed mine to Tektro.
June 13 2024, thanks for the great video. I just followed your directions and BOOM screach! I go brakes again. I wish you great wealth and happiness. all the best neal sw fla.
I have an electric bike that operates as a bike and a moped, which also has the same setup for changing the oil for the brakes. My electric bike operates using the shimano tektro Mechanical Disc brakes. How often should I bleed my brakes if they needed to be bled out ( if any ).
It is hard to say for sure how often the brakes will need to be bled, as it does depend on vehicle type, usage, number of times previously bled, etc. What we recommend is checking the brakes before each ride and bleeding as necessary, rather than bleeding every 6 months or so for example. The Tektro brand is also a higher end system, so it may need to be bled less often.
I have the same kit. All I did was filled up each syringe. Connected both. Moved the fluid back and forth until I saw no more bubbles. Brake lever is hard as a rock.
That side of the brake lever is part of the brake system, if yours is leaking, I would check to see if the bolts can tighten to get it sealed up. If the issue persists, you might need to order a new brake handle to switch out with the one that is leaking
