I've watched several of your videos this is by far the best explanation of a story pole you have done. would like to see more callouts of measurements like how far past the top window you cut the wall metal for j channel. thanks for taking the time to help us all.
Wow! Finally got what you're talking about at 19 minutes in. Super helpful (not a contactor or work in the field)!! I do like doing my own work around the house and love your channel... dream building and all that. I always try to keep learning and this stuff is like oxygen to me lol
I wish you could show and go over the engineered plans with the start of a new build and how you layout according to the plans and what to watch out for. Thank you
Hi, I watch all your videos. I like it very much. Thank you very much for telling me about everything. This is a full training for all of us. I want to try to build something similar at home in Ukraine.
What I initially missed in your explanation is that all the posts are longer than needed for the roof height. In my words: The brackets are at varying heights but pretty close. You are establishing a level reference plane at the height of the highest bracket. The highest bracket (reference) gets the shortest post exactly at the designed roof height. All the other posts are the same or slightly longer because the other brackets are at or below the reference bracket by varying amounts. By compensating for the brackets lower than the reference bracket you end up with a level plane at the top of the posts for the trusses. The distance from the bottom of the bracket to the truss will not be shorter than the building design height but may be slightly longer.
I get the whole purpose of the story pole and its function. We need a little more clarification on the soffit and roof pitch measurement and how those numbers are calculated and marked on the story pole. A few of us down below in the comments are having trouble figuring out how your numbers are adding up. When you came up with 16' 9 3/16" we cannot get those numbers to jive with anything.
I like the live format, though I’m always at work when you are doing them😂. Any content you put out is great. Keep doing what you do and we will keep watching.
Thanks for taking time out of your build to explain the importance of a story pole.layout. Not only was it informative, but it was also entertaining to watch.
Live isn't important to me. I watch your videos when I have time to absorb the content. Nothing beats the instant rewind ability of watching a recorded show. Tnx for the content Kyle
I would have liked to see you make the cuts at the top and then show where the marks fall on the post from the top to the heel and the soffit. Thanks for your patience.
Love the in depth vid. Even though I didn't see it live. Would like to see in depth on post layout ie last post. Distance can't be 8ft on center. And first last truss details.
I'm assuming your posts are not nailed together before you cut since that would make it difficult to cut the center for the truss pocket. But I think I noticed on another web site, where the builder pre-laminated the posts but the center post was short. He then inserted a filler, say three feet plus or minus that was adjusted for the elevation adjustment, to get his final height. Is this a standard way and benefits one way or the other.
I have a story pole that I use for all of the residential fences that I build. Got the idea from you and I made a durable permanent story pole that I take to every job. LOVE your videos!!! Enjoy your live streams also but I usually miss them, so my opinion on it isn't worthy. I appreciate the play back though!!!
I got it all Kyle. Good Job. I'm a 75 year old Electronics Tech and fixit guy, and I understood all that you explained. Trust yourself, my friend. Good Job.
I really appreciate the time you take to teach all this techniques and solutions. Also is great to watch it happening in the real worksite. Since you have so much content recorded, may be interesting to make a review of the building plans where you refresh the name of the different parts of the building and the different pieces involved with clips referencing those parts in your past videos so people learn those terms. Also, some math is complicated because only get used later, maybe you can select some clips to reference in future videos. Of course all of that means more time editing and teaching instead of building, so, would you consider opening that to the community? Don't know which platform would be useful for that, but for sure some of us would love to compile some of those clips for you. Even doing some 3d models. Let me now if you would consider it. Anyways, thanks for sharing.
What town and state is this Story Pole project? How far from that water tower are y'all? That thing is Upppppp there. Kyle, please let Michael know how much we appreciate the steady hands!!! He is bossing the vidya's!
Kyle, Great vids. I'm sure I've watched almost all of them. Someday I'll build my own post frame home. Same question as @handlebarworkshops. So your trusses don't sit on the center board of your laminated column? Would it be beneficial to cut the bottoms of the columns and thereby have the truss sit directly on the center board? Thanks for all you do, Keep up the great work!
Starlink would work, just set the dish on your trailer and hook into it via wifi for the entire job site...they have motorhome contracts... 😉 Beside of the imperial system, I think I understand now the story pole thing...but how do you add the diifferent heights in the brackets, just when setting the colums into them? Thx for showing! 👍👍👍
Looks good as always. Do you get all your supplies from the same place to limit errors on the build? Brackets, columns, screws, lumber, LP weatherlogic and tape, roof steel, side steel, versetta stone, etc?
This is reminding me of that set of 2x4 boards that are set on a lot to determine the location and position of a foundation. One board goes east/west and the other will cross over it heading north/south. There might be two names for it but I don't recall what they are called. Anyone? Great explanation Kyle. Some of the old school framer's might think this is not necessary, I know of a few who simply stick with what they have known for decades. When I suggest lasers and Stabila like equipment they say "they don't need it, I can do it without". My thoughts in that kind of thinking is, they don't care about getting the measurements dead on right, only "close enough".
So you measure from the bottom of the post up to the top? Do the trusses sit on that middle layer of the post, or just above it (with some space between the bottom of the truss and the top of the middle board)? I figured you would measure down from the top of the middle board and cut the bottoms to keep those middle boards at exactly the same height. Then the trusses could sit right on the middle board for more strength.
The middle board is nailed in later when making the column. The permacolumns come with like 3-4ft not nailed in the center so you can get them perfect how he is doing. You just cut what you need and nail it in.
The top part of the column has a removable 4' section that is pulled out and cut exactly at the heel mark. It is then put back into the column and nailed up. The trusses then rest on that piece which is just an extension of the middle ply, so yes, they rest on the middle ply. The heel mark on the post already compensates for the elevation difference at each bracket so when the posts are stood up and resting on the bottom plate of the bracket, the heels are all exactly at the same elevation.
Great information. This question is a little off topic but what ever happened to the cut hub mitre saw stand? I'm thinking of getting this and I was wondering your thoughts.
Question regarding grade, are you referencing the finished concrete floor? I recall you typically pour concrete up approx 4" above the bracket base up the skirt board. From what I see it appears the ceiling height would be approx. 15'8" vs 16'
Why don’t you burn a few inches on the bottom of the story pole, add a self stick piece of ruler and then use that to adjust for your column differences. Then you don’t have to mark your heel height + column difference, it’s built in to the story pole.
I don't understand English well, so this text was translated by Google. Good job! The question is, why do you sometimes beat OSB sheets under a metal roof and glue them, and sometimes just fasten the metal to the crate?
I very much welcome your Videos. my big thing is how does the overhang work. I'm trying to build a 30 X 40 and although I have been a professional carpenter for 38 years but I am learning a whole lot of new terms and a different way of building. I am wondering how the metal roof works with the overhang. I could use all the help I can get I'm trying to do it solo
one of those 20 foot tall columns is 280.00 US dollars. Can we not make the laminated (3 ply) 2x6 columns with glue and screws to save a crap ton of money?
Could you address why you don't see post-frame houses with a full basement? I really like the efficiencies of post frame building but where I live in Iowa, almost all new houses have a basement. I dont see why you couldnt put a perma-column on top of a basement foundation with a bracket.
Hey Kyle. Is there a reason why you do not set your story rod/pole at the 16' heel mark then just trim the bottom of the post off? I haven't seen how you remove the central part of the post out.
He does line up the story pole with the heel mark. By lining up the story pole with the heel mark, they will automatically be at the correct height because the heel marks already compensate for the difference in the bracket heights. There is no need to cut the bottom. The cut is always at the top. Hope that makes sense.
All very clear 👍. Out for curiosity the culumns are 16cm x 16cm and the tiles for the walls 15cm x 5cm ...right? (do these match the metric system measurements?).
The live is never good enough quality to see whats happening. Dont worry about the live. You could do a live Q&A at your home or something every now and then to answer questions.
Can this technique be applied to building a tiny home on a trailer, or would that be overkill? Is this specifically for building barns, garages, and barndo’s etc.? I don’t suppose this type of laser is available for rent is it? Thanks
Congrats on all the viewers! I watched the last story pole vid you did and was wondering does the rotary laser actual reads the difference to the zero grade? I would like to buy one of those lasers if it does. I think you said 5/16th plus.
I know you were having trouble going live this morning to create this video in the moment on live with no edit.. I appreciate the fact that you kept going and put it up on the channel because it was really frustrating everytime it kept losing service and falling out.. really really cool of you to keep going and then posted on a channel later!
The only thing my braincells are still stumped on is the measurements of everything above the heal. I feel like i need to send you the largest Crayola pack of crayons to explain it to me. You go through it fast because you are used to it. Top of your column that you cut, soffit nailer yada yada. Figuring out all those numbers needs to be a video for slow people like myself. Thank You for everything you have done making all these videos for us!
So if you take 16' (where the truss will sit) + 15" 1/2(truss heal) + 3 1/2(2x4 on edge) = 17' 7", his cut off is at 17' 6" 1/2 so that they don't have it come all the way up incase of needing play is my guess. Now for soffit, I'm guessing his 2x4 is measuring at 3" 3/16, but if you go off of what they give you from lumber sites it's 3" 1/2. When doing the soffit you do the following: 16' + 15" 1/2 + 3" 1/2 = 17' 7", now you take 4/12 (4") out of it so: 17' 7" - 4" = 17' 3", now take the fascia board out (5" 1/2) so: 17' 3" - 5" 1/2 = 16' 9" 1/2. as I was typing this he might have came out to 3/16 due to when you drop the fascia down slightly when connecting to your overhang. Maybe we can try to at him and get some more info @RRBuildings
Kyle, I do have a question. I've noticed that a lot of post frame building go up, then the slab is poured after the building goes up. Why? Seems like working off a nice big level slab would be preferable.
(PNW here. A lot of folks do the concrete LAST because they are using it as the finished floor. And thus, don't want dents/nicks/dings from dropped things, or efflorescence showing up whilst it cures)
Great content as always. Saw This old house use one 9nce to align wood siding against windows. A lot of places to use it. Love was cool because you had one take and it proves you know your stuff (duh) But make money and share all those straight lines with us! So awesome!
My question is what is telling you the difference. Once you set zero do you keep the mark and not move anything up or down to tell you what is the difference?
The grade stick with the beeping thing and LCD screen tells him how much the laser is off "zero" and by how much. Looks like he has about plus or minus 2" before he has move the sensor on the stick to find the laser.
@@R2Mike yeah I don’t get where the fuck 3/16 is coming from. I went back and watched a bunch of old videos and can’t figure out. In old videos he was using the top 2x4 dimension as 3 11/16 instead of 3 1/2 because a 2x4 on a 4/12 is that dimension. But when I use that number it comes out to 16’9 11/16🤣🤣🤣 I understand that he flushes his f channel with the top of the soffit nailer but I don’t get the 3/16. No matter how I measure it out it doesn’t come to that lol
14:30- Yes Kyle... already confusing?? It's challenging for a person who knows a process 100% to verbalize it in ways that make sense to the lay person. I think it was very smart to explain that not every line that's marked on the story pole will be traced onto every post. The Starlink systems I've bought cost $600 for the equipment, and the monthly bill is $110/month.
By all means, do some "live recordings" in one take like this, but I can't really watch in the middle of the work day anyway. I'm but 1/1,460,000 though, so take that with a grain of salt or two...
when he marked the top of the post he added or took away the difference ,, so if the wall is 14 feet and the bracket was a 1/4 low the mark on the post would be 14 feet 1/4 inch then the top mark on the story pole would go to that mark .. hope that helps it changes the overall length of the post ..
