@@kraken_tactical The FGC6 is worth a look, only printable GBB afaik where as almost everything else is AEG or HPA. Alot of work and different parts go into it but its incredibly satisfying once you get it up and running.
@@kraken_tactical i would absolutely love to see you print one of those 1 piece ESG builds that have slowly been cropping up everywhere, a bit like the ProTek ATOM for example. Would love one myself but the price tag is absolutely ridiculous
This is not 50$. I wish you would clarify about the total cost of the build: HPA Piston, Gearbox, Canon, Hopup Bloc, Airtank, Batteries, Magazine, all the screws and other technical non 3D printed parts. I think you'd be about the 700$ mark. BUT since the body is only 50 bucks, the internals are 100% upgrades and you get actually better performance for buck than the original SIG one out of the box. But again, your thumbnail and tagline of this whole video is misleading AF
@@mrkaiman3052 You can remove the clickbait with the DeArrow extension. I just modified the title and thumbnail of this video to better reflect the truth.
Sounds like a good idea. I have some large format (1000x1000x1000 mm and 1000x1000x2000 mm) 3D printers. What about you scale the model and I print it for you?
Don't forget to coat the body and parts with anti UV paint or primer to protect it. PLA is very vulnerable to UV rays which can break down the filament in a few years making it brittle and fall apart. Since you used PLA+, we can't know for certain what additives they used and how they protect PLA from UV rays so it's best to take a proactive approach to lengthen it's durability and life span.
@miki_pro_cash3698 Yeah but a coat of paint would change the color of the body, which he was pretty proud of. So an invisible coating would work better. In general though, yeah, normal paint should do the trick as long as it resists UV rays.
@@Gojira_Wins It gets brittle due to it be mildly hygroscopic. PLA+ does experience the same issues. The other thing I'd be worried about is the storage of the part to ensure it doesn't warp due to heat from solar radiation in a car.
3D printing is as frustrating as it is rewarding. It's 50% crying after your print failed 5 hours in. 45% researching why your first layer doesn't stick. 5% impressing family and friends with someone else's designs.
you forgot the 5% getting upgraded electronics from china and the 8 hours in trying to find working software to flash your printer os that the new stuff works but you made a mistake reading the chinese instructions and now you room smells like a semi conductor factory and smoke. Ah yes the pleasure of being a degenerate electrical engineer
Thanks for printing my goober mount, i made it as a joke but its still cool to see people print my stuff and run with it. Nice video and nice build, cheers
Go for ABS or ASA if you want strength, carbon fiber laced for firmness. It'd take some printer modding, but you could also go full send with CF-Nylon and you'd have something stronger than most of the composite guns out there. CF-PETG would also be a great option and it's not much harder to print than PLA. Just keep in mind CF laced materials eat your nozzle, so have spares on hand or buy a ruby/diamond tipped nozzle.
@@kallebportela2086 just keep in mind ABS should be printed in a ventilated area and preferably in a heated chamber. You can kind of cheat by putting a big cardboard box over you printer though.
But what about the 150 dollar tank 370 dollar polarstar unit and 65 dollar line and the 40 dollar mag and the 150 dollar optic and 110 dollar peq and the 90 dollar light and the 60 dollar tracer unit
It did not cost you $50. HPA Engine? Hopup unit? bucking, nub, barrel, regulator, lines, tank, pins, screws, outer barrel (?), rail, mag, tracer unit, optic, PEQ. I think you get the idea. Hopefully I will be pleasantly surprised and find out that the outer barrel, tracer body, etc is printed. Hopefully not the hopup housing. But regardless this still costs an easy 10x what you're advertising
@@xavierlewandowski4672it doesnt work without all the other stuff. Its just a $50 shell without all the internals. If you add all that stuff, even if you go aeg it will cost just the same as a regular airsoft gun.
3D printing has definitely enabled a ton of very cool projects in airsoft. IAP, Spectre72, and a bunch of other guys do such great work and they've helped a bunch with learning Fusion360 and design. With 3D printing, I've been able to bring some of the Halo weapons to life in airsoft. Hope to see more 3D printed projects on the channel
cool build but it did not cost him $50 the hpa engine alone can cost upward of $250, not to mention the sight, sight riser, light, mags, the muzzle, the inner barrel and hop up.
This is such a dope endeavor to explore the limits of 3D printing application in airsoft! If you wanna get rid of some of that shine on the parts (especially the black ones), you can hit it with a matte clear coat and it should dull it right up. I dunno, maybe you like the look of the print lines to highlight how cool it is that you printed an airsoft replica. I love how this could make expensive or nonexistent models accessible. Excited to hear how it holds up in battle!
So I recently printed a MRAD body kit for a vsr10. To make it more durable and able to take a beating I actually took UV resin and a foam brush and coated the filament parts. Some light sanding and it's super smooth and wayyyy more durable.
There's a very healthy community of modelers making airsoft file packs. I'm one of them. Having used my own designs for over 2 years, I'm super impressed with how well they can hold up.
I think -50 dollars is +50 dollars because 3D printers burn electricity well and plastics are a bit costly, and I think the airsoft gun's mechanism will cause problems when it is made of plastic.
Man please make a how to. Love your videos brother! I know nothing about airsoft or even how the internals work I would love to see the complete build process
this is a really neat example of a project tbh it's making me think of a project I have going right now which I seem to be treading new territory in so, I'm actually not really actively into airsoft, only just getting something even related around a week ago I was in Academy on a whim, and was looking in the section where they had airsoft stuff and airguns, out of curiosity. I saw two revolvers that looked fairly identical in the boxes, but one was around half the price, but was labelled an airgun the airsoft gun in question was the Elite Force H8R Revolver, and the identical item is the Umarex Brodax .44 Super Magnum. I purchased the Brodax, and have been doing research on converting it to airsoft, and it seems as though once I have a brass tube of the proper diameter, I can re-barrel the gun and use a couple of self-designed 3D printed fittings to hold said barrel in to make sure the gun functions the same, and then I should just be able to use H8R Revolver rotary mags, which I feel is probably pretty big. the H8R Revolver seems to be a well liked revolver in the airsoft community, and while it's relatively accessible compared to most airsoft guns, it's still around $80 to $90 in stores, but it would be really nice to be able to pay around $35 for the Brodax in-store and only have to pay around $3-$5 to re-barrel it with 3D printed parts included, and just have the same thing btw I've learned some really funny things about this design while working on this project, because apparently Umarex likes to reuse it for anything and everything they can produce it's been released as an airgun twice, being the Tornado .44 Super Magnum, and the Brodax .44 Super Magnum as we've already established, it was re-released as the Elite Force H8R Revolver in the airsoft community in the community I'm actually more familiar with, it's been re-worked to shift the rotor-mech forward to accommodate short darts for the Nerf community and released as the Rekt Jury there's even a paintball variant
I was actually considering 3d printing one as well, been looking through options, and this actually looks like quite a fun project. Just built a P* F2 honey badger. Might look into this as switching GBs isn't hard with HPA. Awesome content though. Where do you run your battery if I may ask?
Were you able to find a honey badger stock? im trying to honey badger my aeg and i cannot find a stock replica at all. Like i would have to buy an ameoba or something of the like just for the stock and it irks me.
@@sazlefraz I got lucky that a local was selling a stock G&G PDW15 CQB for cheap, so went ahead with that. Have yet to actually use it, but test firing has been great.
Funny thing about it is that as i finished this vid i found that matrix sells them for 20 on evike i bought it to see if i can slap it on my arp556 if not i can probably see if can just buy that cause on of my friends did want my arp @@AjaxAS
0:00 "What if I told you, that this, costed me 50 dollars" Oh, I believe you. Considering a lot of folk are 3d printing actual firearms, including myself. I have no skepticism on whether you could build that airsoft gun for around 50 dollars.
I would recommend armadillo TPU. its rubbery but also stiff enough to machine on a cnc machine. Look into it. Much more reliable build. Ninjatek Armadillo TPU
There are stronger materials out there, I use a lot of carbon fiber nylon (PACF), but you will have to do a couple upgrades to your printer, all metal hotend with a hardened steel nozzle and an enclosure (not necessary, but something I’d recommend). Best part about PACF (aside from the strength) is the fact that the layer lines seem to disappear.
that's really cool! I've been thinking of doing basically the same thing except with airsoft guns that aren't really manufactured in airsoft or are too expensive for my budget like the AR-180. the first 3d printed airsoft gun I made was a type 99 Arisaka using ASG m40 internals which was the first airsoft gun I bought. I made all models myself and it turned out really good in the end.
if you really want a solid plastic to print with i recommend abs but its a much harder filament to print with (I have about a year of experience with my printer)
It looks awesome! However how is the fitment of the barrel, hop unit and gearboox? Could you provide more details on how it shoots and how it performs overal?
So yeah the whole build is not 50 bucks but the main piece like you explained took 50 bucks to print and make functional for the internals/externals which you explained in the video, I have no clue why people are complaining it being clickbait.
It should also be noted you can STILL get an ender 3 V2 from microcenter for $99, perfectly capable, what I use. You can see what it's capable of with just a little research.
I wonder how much it'd cost to have someone w/ an SLS printer to print this kit for you (SLS is often used for printing real steel (real polymer?) components & receivers, its way more durable & is basically the same as metal 3d printers work, but without the metal or without the machine being $500k minimum).
I had a gng combat machine that has an inferno in it that I had turn into a mk12 dmr, I really wanted the new gng lmg so I could swap uppers, but I couldn’t justify spending like 350 just to take the upper off so had my friend 3d print an lmg upper for me
Sorry fella a mate has an airsoft MCX in Grey as well. His is the expensive commercial one which has been cerakoted. 3D printing could radically change airsofting, would love to try it myself.
If you can make a 3D printed GBBR (along with some minor metal parts for internals) it would be HUGE. I might need to find a graveyard gun and build. If people can make jigs to make some metal parts (mostly AK's) then GG WP for gun manufacturers. IT would also be huge for people who want to train on firearms but dont have thousands of money to spend (in Poland decent GBBR are literally 1000 zł cheaper (often just as expensive) as an actual entry level AK)
I loved intro, music was sick proper dark and the video professional I thought it made you and your pal look mint anyway. I will say now before I watch rest that I scrolled down and saw someone said this costs way more than 50 cos it’s electric. I bet if you thought about it you could do a half decent spring pistol and I assume by your uniforms youd make something better than the shite guns they sell at the market lol
im definitely printing this one, im from Chile and the MCX and most of the Sig rifles replicas dont get here bc Sig is weird with exports and ive only seen ona mcx rattle here and was around the 1k mark so ofc impossible for most ppl including me and even if i might not trust it to play it as a main hey i got 2 3d printers and the MCX its one of my dream guns and ngl the real grey /black combo made me super jealous xD. anyways great job and great video
