Thank you for your tips i keep learning from you even at my age (61). All of you younger modelers listen to this man he knows his stuff, and you too will improve your models. Lord knows i have.
The main issue is always that, no one wants to put in the effort to obtain this finish even though it's exactly what they want and expect straight from the can/airbrush. Personally, because I do show multiple times a year my finishes all have to be perfect, and my moto is "if it ain't glass, it don't pass"
Steve Zickefoose Just getting back into modeling at age 66. Have purchased all of your DVDs and they remove any doubts of how to do things the right way. Appreciate your straight forward dialogue. The Friday shows are great.
Yet another great Friday treat. So much clearer with out compressor running by plan or by luck thank you have a good weekend and look forward to next weeks. Thank you
Love ya man! You Crack me up when you're telling people how it is.....period. I love it! I'll tell everyone you are 100% right on everything when it comes to these paint jobs. Screw the haters. They're good at one thing and it's not quality paint work 😁
Thanks old man, I purchased those DVD‘s years ago and they are good stuff, highly recommended! They certainly helped me in finding my own process, one might want to make some adaptations when using different materials here and there IMHO, but the basics are vital!
I made the mistake of using Duplicolor car paint to do a model car. It was a metallic. I wet sanded it and when I clear coated it, the finish wa smooth, but you could see the large flake in the paint and it looked less than favorable. I followed your advice and used a Tamiya sprays and I tell you, my finish is vastly improved. My latest build the finish is almost perfect as is, and I dont think I will wet sand the color coat. Thanks for your suggestions!
This may not fall under "fundamental" but if you haven't already done so I'd be interested in hearing about a technological history of the hobby from an Old Man's perspective. Say how the tolerances of the molding has changed since the 1970s or quality of the paint. Things you can do today with newer materials maybe you just couldn't do a few decades ago.
Happy Friday Donn! really dig your Friday videos! Paint finish question for you. I use Tamiya TS lacquer for my auto scale model bodies. Do I sand the color coat in multiple steps first BEFORE I apply the clear coats? Then clear once super smooth. Then sand the clear coat smooth.
Hi, still pretty new to this, but on my 3rd car. I was using spray cans with good results, wetsanding and clearing, but have moved onto an airbrush as i go more into this hobby. I have bought vallejo primer and paints and am not having any luck with them so far. Is there a certain type of paint i should be using for cars. Baically the primer kind of peals off instead of sand, and the paint itself seems the same. Whereas the spray primer and paints where pretty quick to be able to sand. Am i just not leaving it long enough- 24hours? The 2 models i have done look nice with car spray paint and matalic paint, but this 3rd one im not having the same look. Its more like a toy that a car body. Thanks, and appreciate the channel, was nice to come across when learning
I'm an experienced novice... is that a thing? My take would be that the body would need to be sanded a tad to get the primer to stick. I use Vallejo colors all the time, but rarely the primer. In my brief experience I haven't seen the pressing need to prime. Lately my kits have had glaring mold pockets in the interior roof, so being nervous about them showing up under the paint job, I fill in the holes and prime the outside to lessen the putty color. Spraying the Vallejo direct to the body hasn't presented any problems for me. You'll need to spray what seems like a lot. That issue has bit me in the butt more than once. I spray Vallejo Model Air direct to the body, wait a number of weeks, sand lightly then spray Tamiya X-22 thinned. This seems to work for me. I would prefer to spray thinned Tamiya Acrylics as they spray awesome and seem to cure better, but the Vallejo Air series has a nice variety of colors I stick with that. You can also spray a Testors enamel thinned 1:1 and it lays down smooth.
@@dave3805 Thank Dave. Yeah i used a blue out of the packet and it seems to take alot. Its just that i was used to useing sparay cans. The airbrush thing is all new to me. But seems leaving it for a good while is the best option. Thanks for the reply
It's just a shame that Testor's Enamels aren't so easy to get nowadays (especially in the UK). I wonder how applicable this would be for using (decanted) Tamiya TS Sprays?
The goto brand for me now is MCW Paints, if ever there was a great successor to good ol Testors it's MCW and they use factory Paint codes for specific car colors. Check em out!
Digital would be nice, but I have all of his DVDs and they are really good. The production value on the early ones is dated by today's standards, but still full of useful information. I'd recommend his DVDs to anyone wanting to up their game.
You could easily transfer his DVD's to a thumb drive if you really needed to. There's plenty of free software to do this and you could then take Don's video along with you.
@@animalyze7120 This is 2022...computers rarely even come with DVD drives anymore and TV's don't either, people rarely buy DVD players because everything is digital.
I've seen a lot of other RU-vidrs wet sand and then polish it back to a brilliant shine. You don't have to wet sand between coats of paint or clear coat.
