I emailed the Old Man, 2 weeks ago, he got back back to me, probably a simple question for most, but to me, 3 things i took from this guru. Firstly, the advice, I applied it worked beautifully, secondly, the fact he took the time to respond to me blew my mind, thirdly, I have taken the plunge and will be attending a local model enthusiasts meeting next week, sounds simple to some, but a huge thing for me to do. So thank you for what you do for this rekindled hobby of mine, and please keep up with the Friday posts, i love em.
Look forward to your informative videos every week, thanks for sharing. I have a couple kits that I built years ago, ‘59 Cadillac conv. and ‘66 Mustang ht. I used Testors flat black as a primer which gave me attractive results after chrome foiling and waxing. As time passed, the finishes have become flat too. Still nice models, but what’s to be done to restore the gloss? I have the same problem with even older builds where I used gold or silver as a base coat for transparent colors. You may want to address this issue somewhere in your videos, as I know others have done the same. -Brian
It's always good to see people come up to you and tell you "thanks for the help". I've seen a few guys telling me this to the point where I am the one who will be asking them the questions after seeing how much they have improved....😁😁😁
Hey buddy. I love tat train of thought. My go-to line, as my life has unfolded is...hesatation will make all of your fears come ture. Think on that for a moment. Hae a good weekend.
Like these Vids! I'm old school too I was shown how to do it right. Never cared about haters they are gonna hate mostly because they can't do it right. Keep head down and learn from the masters like This MAN. Donnie ur DA MAN! Keep going bro...
Do you have any advice for taking apart gluebomb models? What methods have worked well for you, (especially if glued together with the old orange tube glue?)
Good question, over the years I've really only had success using a hobby knife and small thin hobby saw, it's not like super glue you can remove, that hobby glue melts the plastic together. If you're lucky they will have glued the pieces together over paint in which case a purple bath for a few hours will let you know for sure. Most engines were built partially painted then glued and usually come apart fast (Not always). The rest is patience with a hobby knife and saw (Mostly body/chassis parts). Freezing hasn't done much from my experience and generally only makes the plastic a bit more brittle. Really interested to see what Don has to say on this subject, I have around 100+ old glue bombs I've found over the years and rescued from the trash bin and I would love to restore them.
I took a model to a model show one time I wanted to get in an award with it which mine looked okay but there's a few others quite a few others actually in that same class that it was in that was so much better and I wanted to get in an award over some of them that was a lot nicer don't know why but there must have been something that stuck out about it to the two guys that were judging that class I'm grateful that I got an award but I was going up there more for the fun of it I didn't care if I got one or not
Really like your videos and have even purchased your dvds which are outstanding. However, the background noise on some of your videos is very annoying, like this one. Compressor noise, beeping noises, etc. Anyway to shut the compressor off while filming?
I have this fear. I’m building my Holy Grail kit, and after having trouble laying paint, I finally got the body smooth as glass. I compounded and polished my body. I’m at the point of applying the decals. They’re aftermarket decals that cost me 30 bucks. I want to make sure they stick. Should I use alcohol to remove the polish, or should I just lay the decals. I’m most likely going to clear over the decals. Do you have any advice??
Do not apply clear over polish . Scribe the body with Dawn dish detergent . Dry off and then apply the decals then the clear coat . I prefer to apply the clear , polish it out , apply decals and call it a day .
@@ScaleModelTechniques I would do that, but this is a 1/16 scale funny car, and the stars that run along the roof and trunk are in a field of blue, which is body color, so there will be the decal film between them. The best I can do is take your advice, apply the decals, and it it comes out nice, I’ll bail on the second clear coat. Thanks again for your help!!
Hey Don, I got back into the hobby during covid, did model's as a kid then like you did model railroading for a while, I'm 41 now, thought my cars looked pretty good till I recently started watching your videos, glad to continue to keep getting better at this. So I'm doing a lindberg 66 chevelle ss 396, its a 1998 issue and I trimmed my rear bumper to match my prototype 1/1 I'm going by and the factory chrome like rubbed off just by alittle pressure from my finger, how do I repair it thanks?
i'm a nobody to you your a hell of a man Mr. yost far be it just love to meet jake can i meet jake i'm that nobody fellow and yes a nobody can i meet jake can i please meet him please meet him just one time
first I would like to say how much I enjoy your videos because I do learn a lot and I have been building models pretty much all my life and I'm 67 years old and I still enjoy the hobby and I always enjoy learning new techniques on building , so my question is where could I get this CD you are talking about ? Thank you
