How to fell trees using an axe rather than a chainsaw. Not recommended for the inexperienced, before felling trees please get some formal training or experience working with a friend or relative who is a professional.
Thank you for your focus on both safety and professionalism - along with explaining the process/methods so clearly. I found this series really helpful.
While helping my buddy clear sycamore, eucalyptus and two cypress trees out of an oak grove, my buddy took it upon himself to rest the saw and axe out the last sycamore. His top cut wasn't started high enough and when he went to strike at the farthest side of the tree he cased the handle on his top cut and snapped his axe. When we cut down the second cypress tree it flexed forward as it started falling, snapped straight back into form and the tree jumped up like 3 feet and out 5 feet then fell over in the complete opposite direction we wanted it to. It just popped itself up with the force of whip lash, it was gnarly.
3:40 I'm watching this to more safely cut down a tree in my garden for the first time and "all those things vital to not being a cripple" had me in tears!
I have been watching your videos for several months and I want to thank you for sharing this knowledge, I am improving thanks to your videos. Also, your content is gold for our modern society, because I realise too many times that fewer and fewer people know how to do things with their own energy. Last but not least, I find it great that you are from Great Britain, as we have the same kind of forests here in France.
Its important to chop the back cut from the same (high side ) of the tree @ 90° to the face cut. . Swing both right And left handedly. Very important skill to develop to fully natural. I use an 8' long Pike Pole for pushing trees and I have an 8' extension for heavier leans . Wonderful axe you have there !!
I've never seen one of those felling levers before. Kind of an interesting idea. I pretty much feel that felling is the most dangerous thing you can do with an axe, so its good to discuss the fundamentals over and over. I've tried quite a bit to do some felling based on Mors Kochanski's recommendations where you stay on one side of the tree for both cuts. I decided it was maybe something he was saying to demonstrate his "expert" status vs a good idea for every axeman to use. As a righty it is really hard to make a clean backcut left handed, which you can see in my felling video. I think walking around and cutting the back cut from the opposite side is a better, safer practice in almost every case. That said, I generally only axe fell a tree that I know I can safely fell in the direction I want it, which is almost 100% of the time the direction I think it wants to fall anyway. Directional felling is really only safe and justified to do with a chainsaw IMO.
I think cutting the point of cutting the tree standing still and using both left and right handed is it was necessary for professional loggers working on springboards and rough, steep ground. For most scenarios its not needed but still useful to learn, its something I need to work on. I think directional falling with an axe is where the most knowledge has been lost. There is ways of doing it but it generally requires teams of men with poles to push it back or some weird notches. Even then what you can do is far more limited compared to a saw
I haven't seen anything quite like it either. It looks like a handy fellow could make something similar. I like how it's incorporated with the cant hook.
I've recently taken my professional chainsaw felling class, and they have also informed me to stay on one side of the tree as much as possible. There are some cuts that you need to move around the tree for, but basically if you over cut the felling notch the tree has a chance to fall backwards while you are moving behind it. Changes are slim, especially with a chainsaw compared to an axe where over cutting the wedge is more likely. However, I think it is a valuable skill to develop a proper swing with bot hands and safer too.
Research plumbing a tree before falling if not familiar. Simple process that works. Also rigging a dead wood for falling.. these very simple easy forgotten ways still work very well , changing the work from being a educated guess into a controled dropping
yeah i forgot to show how to use the axe handle to show lean, kinda hard trying to cut down a tree safely AND film a video and talk without a script eh!
@@benscottwoodchopper you understand . Many have no clue. And say if the tree has a chance of " coming back on you" I think? A piece of rope rigging can stop that. Dead trees are deadly. I like your style.. be safe.
Been binging your videos for awhile now... I love seeing all the styles of axes you can get! It’s also cool too see how much your accuracy and confidence has improved. Idk about timber sports status, but I love axes and hopefully one day I’m more than adequately exceptional with them :3
Thanks, Its been awesome making the channel. Main thing is to practice a lot and experiment with what works. For me I am going to try and do well in timbersports but It is early days and I still have a long way to go to be at that level
@@benscottwoodchopper Hi Ben! Please, can you give a short list of items on what should or shouldn't buy? Just thinking about a high quality trouser, jumper, shoes or boots, etc. That can be last for a lifetime using in forestry. Thank you for your help and advice. Have a great weekend!
@@janosszentpeteri1922 you dont need to buy anything special and nothing will last for a lifetime in forestry work. just wear old clothes you dont mind getting ruined and for boots and PPE everybody is different, go to a chainsaw dealer and try which fits you best
@@benscottwoodchopper Ben, the Screwfix in England, do they have tools you mentioned in your videos? Do you have any specific store or wholesaler in England? Thank you for all of your answers!
So much information for newbies my dad got me a axe to chop some wood and build some muscle aswell as stamina i tried to cut one tree and got it done successfully ☠️ but i was just hitting one side all the time like it was harder then a small Machete 😭 but i got it now will surely apply right technique and precautions next time thank you.
I really liked your good practical advice on felling!.Could you supply any details on the axe you were using eg:Make / Model No. looked like a nice axe to use .
Nice swing with that axe ! I really like your channel so far, a lot of great content on axes. I just started my own channel on axes in french as there is almost no content on axes in french on youtube ! For anyone interested I just made a small compilation showing old footage of axemen swinging double-bit axes. Cheers, Oden
It would be interesting to see some crosscut and axe felling. Horizontal face cut with the saw, chop the vertical with the axe, then back cut with the saw. I think this is still within the Cordwood rules if you need to wedge. You'd perhaps need to make your own thin hardwood wedge, though to fit the narrow saw kerf or find an antique steel thin felling wedge.
I face across the tree, kneeling my left leg, closest to the cut, hiking my right leg, away from the cut. After the knotch is complete, I deal the last few blows from the opposing side while standing.
Not sure what you mean by kevlar chaps, do you mean chainsaw chaps? Those offer zero protection from axe cuts. Only thing that stops an axe is steel toe boots or chainmail. Boots are a must own. I have the chain mail for competition and while it is expensive I really like the extra protection
@@benscottwoodchopper You are right chain mail would offer better protection but I bet one can still chip or break a bone pretty easily even with chain mail on .
@@kookamunga2458 yes chain mail wont stop broken bones but it offers more protection to the side of the foot. I did a test a while ago with an old leather work boot if you are interested ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--L0a0vC6FuA.html
Hi, axes with a fiberglass handle or with a wooden handle have less vibration in the hands? I have only used fiberglass and have no experience with wood. Nice work!
Its an old ochsenkopf 'Berlin pattern', 1600 grams head weight but with an unusually long and narrow bit, only 9.5cm wide. It has a lot of punch but overlapping the cuts is difficult
Have you ever looked into taking off wood on the hinge to make the tree roll to aim the tree/also used when the tree is hung up on another tree. I learnt it with a chainsaw and to a degree you can mimic the technique with an axe
@@benscottwoodchopper depends on the size of tree too. That's what i feel that makes axe felling more dangerous is not have a consistently parallel cut and not being able to see exactly how much of a hinge you have. Wondering also if for a safety aspect whether people could make a notch with a saw above their back cut to be able to use a felling lever to guide their tree. Might be worth testing out to see how effective it actually is when paired with an axe or whether it's just an extra expense for not much benefit. thoughts?
I'm no professional neither but I have fell more trees with an accent I have Wolfgang chainsaw things to my grandpa and again I am no professional I just used axes for a very very long time of forever and a chainsaw and wanting couple always told me is a piece of advice I'll pass on to any novice axe handlers out they're watching this, do not buy a double bit Axe unless you are very very skilled with axes.... my grandpa always told me double bit axe just doubles the chances of you hurting yourself or somebody around you I have a double bit axe but it just gathers dust I don't fell that many trees and I have had a couple Ax-idents in my life and am glad I keep a backpack with first aid items nearby lol mainly be sure you're not using a double bit for beginners and always before you start chopping make sure the axe head is firmly attached to the handle loose handles are more dangerous than a double bit in my mind because you run the risk of it coming loose has your drawing back to swing and either in your downswing to chop or your drawback motion you run the risk of Ed flying off and doing God knows what's amount of damage to you or somebody close by. Also always be aware of your surroundings and where that tree is going because felling trees is extremely dangerous whether it's with a chainsaw or axe
I agree, a double bit is a pretty useless tool outside of professional logging, which is now all done by chainsaw and harvester. for the modern axeman a single bit is infinitely better
Good effort on making the quart wood challenge safer, but the spirit of it is kind of getting lost in all this rules. You explain your rules and they have their sense, but to much don't do this and don't do that can lead to less thinking and common sense. Just talking about the way to present it, not the content it self.Thanks for sharing your knowledge and all the best for you from Germany, Maximilian.
With felling you must follow these rules whether using an axe, chainsaw or handsaw. Every single source i have read shows this technique. Doing something different is very dangerous. People can do the cordwood challenge however they like, however breaking basic felling rules is not a good idea. I can understand your point though, this series is meant as a basic guide and from this people can develop their own styles and tricks for using an axe. Cheers!
@@Steve_G88 Germany has mostly softwoods but there are areas with a lot of tough beech. I don't know for sure if it was designed for a specific wood but I have found it to be best for cutting tougher, knottier wood as the smaller bladed concentrates the force better
@@benscottwoodchopper Another thing Ive seen the Scandi's do with their long thin bitted axes is buck logs to square ends. I think the longer bit allows for more acute angles without the poll slapping against the endgrain. instagram.com/p/BaohBrxhz93/?
Not bad but to keep your cut level you must work left handed as well , your cut was not quite level and your fade cut was way too deep although that is not such an issue felling with an axe
Yes it was way over halfway. In hindsight though because the tree was leaning this may actually be a good way of doing it. being able to cut the back wood quickly on larger trees may be an ideal way to avoid barber chairs since you cannot bore cut with an axe