Fusing Resin Pieces Together 

Thanks!

Thanks for the tip! I'll have to give it a try.

@@KannonStudiosOfficial I've seen letting it sit in hot water for a minute work too! Also make sure you use skin protection when you exposed to UV light, you could be damaging your skin.

Yes!

Glad you liked it!

You're welcome!

I do both. Depends what I'm doing.

Thanks, Amy. i appreciate it!

I'm glad it helped you! Hope my other videos are just as useful for you!

Good tip!

haha thanks! Nice! Cheaper to use what you have. lol

I'm sure you tried this already but yes it should work! Hope the project came out. 😄

Glad it worked out!

I'm just guessing here but, notice how the light bleeds through the edges of the spikes when held in front of the light? This is because the resin has a slight degree of translucency to it, so the light ends up shining through enough to cure the resin below just surface level. At least that's how I'd interpret it

Basically what NPC said. 😁

I have another video here where I assembled some large horns that were printed in multiple pieces. Hopefully this helps! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-14aW--bmYLs.html

Yes, I love mine!

I personally haven't had any issues with this method. Most of my prints I use this on have a wall thickness of 2-3mm, and the light has always been bright enough to fully cure all the examples I show here.

I molded my pieces in Blender. 😁

Good job! 👍

Yes, absolutely

During the fusing process? 10-15 seconds, maybe another post cure session if needed once complete. But the times can vary on the resin used of course, I try to just follow the manufacture spec

Hi Nathan, thank you for the feedback! You're right, it can be easier removing some supports before curing. However, depending on the piece, there can be situations you would not want to do that: thin flexible pieces that could become warped during the wash/cure process, or pieces that need to maintain high precision to be assembled to a larger whole (the warping that could occur otherwise could impact that final result). I find that leaving the supports on in those kind of cases is more beneficial while curing them. With bonding, you are correct- if it's a solid color resin though. I've found that for transparent resins, and resins with at least a 50% blend of a transparent resin, that's a non-issue. The light will penitrate and cure it, given that there is not too much depth to the bond of course. Hollowfying objects properly with holes for drainage makes a significant improvement to that process, as well as reducing material costs and overall weight. But I'll be covering some of those items in a video update - this one is a bit old now, and from when I was first expirementing with SLA printers myself. 😀

Thanks for the comments~ I'll have an updated video soon! This method works great for pieces that the UV light does penetrate! The updated video will give you some better examples of this.

I haven't had this issue personally. I cure it in thin layers to build up the area, and even add in cured resin scraps for bigger spaces. I sand my pieces and they come out great! But this is just a suggestion based on my personal experiences.

Correct, you do not want to touch non-cured resin.

Correct! Gloves are always needed when working with uncured resin! 😁👍 Happy creating!

Thanks for your comment! I think your fear is valid, but not in this case. Even skincancer.org doesn't consider the brief moments of exposure to pose any risk (think like a nail salon station). I'm only using it for a few seconds, of which off camera the light is pretty much just on the piece I'm working on. Tanning beds have a higher risk of something like that due to long exposure times. In the brief few seconds, there is no real issue. But if worried, some sunscreen or gloves could be worn? From skincancer.org: However, even the most intense of these devices presents only a moderate UV risk - a far lower risk than that presented by UV tanning devices.