IMPORTANT: Make sure to add clearance to the ridge at 32:00. A clearance of 0.4 mm (or .5mm) is recommended for FDM printers. A clearance of 0.3mm is recommended for other types of printers (SLS, SLA, OJET). ps. thanks to everyone who brought this to my attention. __ Resources for this tutorial can be found here ► productdesignonline.com/13 __ *TIMESTAMPS* 0:00 - Creating Snap Joints in Fusion 360 2:03 - Importing the reference model 5:12 - Creating the box 6:43 - Adding fillets to the edges 8:27 - Shelling the box (making it hollow) 10:35 - Using the section analysis 12:00 - Creating the pins 15:33 - Projecting the cutout slots 19:07 - Creating slots on the sides 20:35 - Creating slots for the Micro SD card 22:00 - Splitting the case in half 24:33 - Creating the snap joints 32:33 - Creating registration ridges
Which ridge? Are we talking the ridge on the snap connections or the registration ridges? I just finished the project yesterday. I resized the box width dimension to 65mm. I found the rasberri pi won't fit with the original width dimension.
Darn - I was aware of that kind of thing, but didn't think to do it right away, until I had done a couple of test prints (my case has to allow for an oversized Seeed Studio LCD, which took a couple of tries to get right.)
A professional makes difficult work look easy and a great teacher makes it easy for people to learn how. You Kevin, nail it on both of these. Thank you for also keeping the topics real. Not going to the extreme features, but mastering the needed functionality required by most (IMO). I continue to learn better ways to create my projects with ever lesson. You channel is also to the first recommendation after I recommend Fusion360 to anyone wishing to learn how to get into model creatio for 3D Printing or CNC. Please keep the lessons flowing.
Thanks, John! I know you've been following the channel for quite some time now and I really appreciate your support - especially you recommending the channel to others. Thanks to your support, I look forward to continuing to make tutorials! Cheers, Kevin :)
This is a fantastic tutorial. I own about 8 Raspberry Pis, 10s of Arduinos, 2 BBC Microbits and countless ESP8266s and WemosD1 Minis . This tutorial will be a tremendous help in designing better cases for all of these electronics hardware!
Thanks, Moinul Hossain! I appreciate the kind words and I'm happy to hear you find them easy to understand. Please don't hesitate to comment on any of my videos should you have any questions. Cheers, Kevin :)
Right thought I would come back and give a big shout out to Kevin for he was the first tutor on how to use Fusion 360. Im now way better than I was on day one. Creating loads of stuff but to make it even better I have already modelled a hydraulic cylinder I want produced and sent the design out to a firm in China. They thought the accuracy and image was excellent. All thanks to one man. Kevin Kennedy. Special thanks Kevin.
Hi, James. I hadn't heard from you in a little while... I was hoping it was because you were hard at work on some of your projects! Glad to hear that you've been getting things built in F360. Keep at it! Cheers, Kevin :)
In my first week of learning Fusion 360 I find your video a good tutorial. For the snap fit I think there are more robust solutions, but your use of the combine function to cut away the part of the top is a nice tool!
@@Todestelzer Those aren't good snaps. Nicely modeled, and great Fusion skills, but the snaps themselves are way too stiff to bend to allow the snap to happen. They also protrude quite a lot into the lower part. Other than that I learned a lot from this video!
Great tutorial! Like it. One small question. You used tolerances when created the pegs for the pi, shouldn’t be put tolerance for the snap joint and groove as well?
Hi, Péter Réfi. Great question and sorry for the confusion. There should be tolerances there as well. Per the pinned comment, I was focused on other things while recording and forgot to add tutorials there. Cheers, Kevin :)
I followed the tutorial the entire way with the intent of making a Pi case. I made some small changes here and there to the final product for ventilation, like patterned holes across the top, but overall just followed the overall design. I had two problems and one nice thing when it came to actually printing it (top and bottom facing the bed) and assembling it that probably aren't super obvious to a beginner beginner. The first was that with the clearances involved, while you are modeling a snap fit case, you won't actually be able to put the pi in there, since the audio jack extends quite far past the case and the tolerances involved will prevent that from being inserted and still sitting on the pins. Removing the two pins closest to the overall slot (snapped off by hand) worked fine, and that allowed it to be angled in. The two remaining pins hold the board in place just fine, so I was able to use the bottom without reprinting. The second was that while the snap fit did model come together in CAD, when I tried with the actual material I realized it was too brittle to use it successfully that way with the way I printed it (in PLA). So the snap connectors were snapped off on the top half. The nice thing that happened was as I followed the tutorial exactly, I did *not* add tolerance to snap and groove on the lid, as mentioned by Peter Refi in the comments. This allowed me to do a pressure fit closure on the top, which holds it together nicely. Since the case is mainly aesthetic and to prevent damage from bumps, this will perfectly suit my needs, allowing me to have a fully functioning case with a Raspberry Pi 4. I didn't get a snap fit case like I wanted, but I learned a lot from this tutorial and through my mistakes, and will try it again on my next project.
I just watched this today and those clips are ridiculous in this video. How in the world anyone with any understanding of printing, or even how plastic works at all, can think it can bend that much is beyond me.
Wow, a 2 year old comment getting a reply brought me back to this. Can't believe it's been 2 years. "How in the world anyone with any understanding of printing, or even how plastic works at all, can think it can bend that much is beyond me." ... That was kind of the point. I was not an experienced CAD modeler nor 3D printer at the time. 2 years ago, this was one of my very first prints as I was learning the basics of CAD and 3D printing. At the time of modeling it, I thought it wouldn't succeed - I think my note in the Fusion file says something like, "I have never seen a retaining tab this large in an actual product". However, I knew I would tape it closed as a permanent fix if the print failed so I didn't care. The reason I left this comment was undoubtedly someone, somewhere would try and print this. There were a few comments on the video at the time discussing how useful this would be (and I checked every comment at the time), not a single comment ever said they'd actually gone through and printed it, and what happened and why it failed if you actually tried to print the tutorial. I felt like it should have at least one. And plastics - they can do a amazing things, including flexing that far if you use the right material. I like the tutorial as a teaching tool, but for making a case, the design requires revision. For the record - 2 years on, I still have this case, it's still in use and still works great, printed off the very first roll of PLA that I ever bought.
@@gonxau And to be clear, I was speaking about the guy teaching, not you. You are right, a very soft rubber like plastic might bend like that, but normal run of the mill PLA or ABS would not. While watching the video I was so surprised at that clip length and went straight to the comments the same as you to see who had printed it or at least commented on those clips and yours was the only mention.
@@_evildoer I hope more than one person saw my comment after thinking the same as you and said, "wow, ok, so if I print this, it won't work as a snap case" and revised the design. That would make it very worth it. If I was doing this again as a snap connector, I'd make 2-3 design changes, but realistically I'd probably just design it to use some M3 screws.
very nice points. I was curious as to how it would turn out since I have been looking for ways to add snap fits to some of my designs and thought this video would be good. While it clearly lacks in that department, as you stated, it did help me find tricks I wasn't aware of as a Fusion360 novice.
Thanks for watching, Kris! Also, I appreciate the recommendations...that means a lot to me and certainly helps the channel reach more people and continue to grow! Cheers, Kevin :)
Many many thanks for this perfect Tutorial! It was very useful for me, creating my very own RPi Case! Thank you and please continue doing such tutorials!
Thank you so much! My UI looked very different (2019 refresh?) FYI for such users, the "SKETCH" menu doesn't show up unless you're in sketch mode! You have to do Create -> New Sketch, click on the face you want to edit, then select the command, rather than selecting the command first. Also, the lightbulbs have been replaced with little eye shapes.
Hi, Star Dorminey. That is correct. I would recommend watching my tutorial that covers the new UI updates. I discuss the critical changes in terminology, placement, and iconography, that should help bridge the gap between the old UI and the new one. You can watch that here - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tuZzHcmFtg4.html Cheers, Kevin :)
great tutorial. thanks for making these. AutoCAD should be paying you. You are a great instructor. I'm about 2 weeks into learning Fusion 360 and your tutorials have been instrumental in learning this software.
PRINT: Thanks a lot for the video. It would also be helpful if you can show the actual 3D printed part and do the snap-fit so that it will increase the confidence of designing the same and making one.
Hi, Praveen. Thanks for your feedback. I'm currently working on a setup to record some video footage of the prints being printed and some final footage of the in action. I'll be incorporating this into future lessons. Cheers, Kevin :)
@@tom4praveen You're welcome. I'm always happy to help..and will be doing more 3D printing tutorials with videos and examples soon. Stay tuned! Cheers, Kevin :)
Your explanation is of the best tutorials: very clear and systematic. The smoothness of explanation reflects the amount of perpetration you make. Much appreciate the information.
Darn you make it look easy. I cannot believe how much I struggled just to edit the posts that go through the PCB. I wanted to give it a platform to sit on, rather than letting the board just drop over the posts and sit on the bottom of the box. Simple right? Just make the post a wedding cake with a wider base... 3 hours later...
Hi, rbrdly. After creating the initial pins/posts you could offset from that cylinder and then simply extrude that to your desired height to make the wider "wedding cake" area to sit on. Overall, that's a great idea... I have seen some cases that have that. I'll have to incorporate that next time. Cheers, Kevin :)
@@ProductDesignOnline Thanks Kevin. I got myself all tangled up projecting things onto the wrong plane, working on the wrong component, on the wrong sketch... just, over complicating it. It was a disaster, but I got there in the end. Thanks again.
nice tutorial, but the way you made the last feature, to align the top and bottom case, without tolerances, it will not work when you will print it. Also, the snaps are to "tight fit" and it will not work, it will even break the first time you try to close it. it will be nice to see the final print, as far as I can see, sorry to say it because it is a great tutorial, it will not work printed. anyway, keep on going I like your tutorials, I can always learn something.
Hi, Giuseppe. Thanks for your feedback. Good point on adding some tolerances for the top/bottom ridge. As far as the snaps, I should've re-iterated more that I had only printed this out with NYLON 3D printer filament that is flexible. You're probably correct that this may have some issues with the standard PLA or ABS filament. Thanks again for watching and leaving your feedback and suggestions. Cheers, Kevin :)
Thanks Kevin. I've printed a few cases for Pi 3B's but used magnets or nuts/bolts to hold the parts together. I'm only set up for PLA but I'll give the snaps a try. Nice tip about the combine/cut to make the ridge and recess at the end to help align the two halves.
Thanks, Thistledoo 47603! I haven't tried magnets before...but that sounds like a great idea. I'll have to give that a go and maybe make that a tutorial. I've done lots of projects with nuts and bolts...and will eventually make a tutorial on that. Glad you enjoyed the ridge/recess. One thing I forgot to mention is that it would be worthwhile to factor in a small tolerance there. Cheers, Kevin :)
Great video, really like the fact that you explain why in addition to what you are doing. Also like the tips and tricks. I use Arduino boards and Raspberry Pi as well so this tutorial was perfect for me. Thank you!
Hi, DocM. Thanks for your feedback. Good point on adding some tolerances for the top/bottom ridge. As far as the snaps, I should've re-iterated more that I had only printed this out with NYLON 3D printer filament that is flexible. You're probably correct that this may have some issues with the standard PLA or ABS filament. Thanks again for watching and leaving your feedback and suggestions. Cheers, Kevin :)
Great tutorial! The snapping didn't quite work, but the end-to-end tutorial was great. I'm still a beginner with Fusion 360, so I especially liked how you didn't gloss over some things that might be considered "basic". And even though the snap-fit system didn't exactly work, it serves as a good base to refine, and I'm confident I'll get to a working model with another iteration or two.
I am new to Fusion 360 and I have followed this tutorial. Unfortunately, I do not understand the pinned comment about adding a clearance to the ridge. Whenever I try to add the offset face feature after the Combine I get an error: an existing fillet or chamfer could not be deleted. Can anyone help me by describing what I should do to add the clearance?
Super clear and thorough, thanks for taking the time to put this together. There are about a half a dozen projects I can take to the next level based on the learning in here!
Hi, 6yjjk. Glad you found it refreshing. I try to keep the tutorials concise, yet still thorough that beginners aren't completely lost with what I'm doing. I also plan to start releasing some intermediate level tutorials where I don't say every little thing and keep things a little more high-level so the discussion can be more on thought process and less-common features. Cheers, Kevin :)
Fanstastic tutorial. Only one question: with the splitting the body, you did this in the middle. Is it also possible to do this a bit more organic? Because in your case or mine I want to create I will face a problem like you will have printing this one. At the usb C and HDMI connectors opening, you have this big bridge to cover. This can be solved by adding a bit to the top body to halfway that opening, but keep the rest halfway. How can you do that in a good way? With the splitting part at 22:00
Hi, really great video man. I used it to create a box for my power distribution board. However, when I tried adding my LOGO to the top side of the case, Fusion 360 would hang and ultimately I had to use task manager to shut it down. Any advice please?
Great tutorial. I noticed that you extruded the pins for the pi from the pi, I’m confused, shouldn’t they be from the base of the case? Sorry for silly question
I'd love to see the case after you have assembled and disassembled it. Perhaps you could post some pictures? Even if you claim to have made it in Nylon, you'd have the devil of a job getting it to work without breakage, if at all. Did you not benchmark a few of the commercial designs and notice that the snap fit features were "somewhat different"?
Hi, Murray. Thanks for your feedback. I definitely should've included some more tolerances into the design and will be sure to mention those in the future. Cheers, Kevin :)
Hi, Deses. I suppose it depends on how the RPi is used. I simply use one for remote printer setup, so it's not running 24/7. The official RPi case doesn't have any vents in it, but it is also injection molded in ABS, so it can take more heat than PLA. Cheers, Kevin :)
@UCooViVfi0DaWk_eqxIXXiOQ - When i create a new design or scene, i don't see the rasberry pi on my library like i do on my first scene library. Can you make video based on the Sequioa V8 Full Motherboard which is 4" * 4" and make a handheld game console case using that size board.
You are really awesome man!!! Hats off.. Between I'm a very beginner in cad and of course with F360. So my question is if I'm making a casing for Arduino nano or Uno, where we ca get those design.. are those resources available somewhere or do we need to design those first??
Hi, Sandeep. Great question. There are many sites that host free CAD files. I recommend checking out GrabCAD.com, Thingiverse, and The Fusion 360 Gallery (filter by downloadable items). Cheers, Kevin :)
The pegs you created, should have some base with larger diameter, to elevate the PCB, otherwise, the latter will be lying right on the bottom with its electric contacts touching the surface, which is something you might want to avoid in reality.
This was extremely helpful. I have a noob project question. I'm very new to 3D printing and I've been creating separate Fusion 360 files. Using your example I would have case top, and case bottom file, then export each for printing. Design wise though how you designed this is way easier... so how would you take this and prepare it for printing? Do you need to lay it out next to each other, or can you export one at a time? Thanks! I will be checking out your other videos.
did you ever learn in science classes to never use "i did this, then I did that" but instead say "first the edge is filleted, then a chamfer is added for blah blah"? the contstant "I did, I did" gets to you at some point but good video none the less and still a thumbs up.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts, Phizicks. Unfortunately, in the world of "Instructional Design" you simply cannot please everyone. Some of my original tutorials were created with less of the fillet words and others complained that it was too fast and needed to be slowed down and more straight forward. I'm starting to create intermediate level tutorials now, where less filler words and beginner topics are discussed... maybe those will be better suited for you based on your experience and preferences. Cheers, Kevin :)
Something has been changed and can't figure it out. First off the dimensions are really small the only way I can read them is to select as if I am going to change the dimension. Anyone else?
Sweet - thanks for letting me know :) I just fixed it.... the old link may be cached in your Browser...you'll have to refresh or clear your cache. Cheers, Kevin
Google is all-seeing. I have been modeling a case for an Archim 2 marlin board plus LCD screen in Onshape. Here you are in Fusion360 with snaps. Very good design and lots easier than my lumbering attemps.
there were some great tips in here but if you print that it won't fit - there's no tolerance for the fitting ridge! Is there an easy trick to adding some extra void (or whatever the right term is)?
Hi, Wezzoid. Thanks for watching! You're correct, I definitely need to add some tolerances into the ridge (and a few other areas). Please see the pinned comment for more details. Cheers, Kevin :)
Print, one-half hour of your time is equal to 3.5 hours of my time, damn I must be a dog. Very nice instructional video must have taken a long time to edit. Keep broadcasting!!
Thanks, GeekMustHave! They do take quite a bit of time to plan, record, and edit...but I have no intention of stopping anytime soon. Thanks for your support. Don't hesitate to comment on any of my videos if you run into any roadblocks. Cheers, Kevin :)
4 года назад
Wonderful tutorial but... did you try to assembly both half of the cover? I will work only if the material is a rubber. :-) Although in this case I doubt it would work. Both latches must be flexible. So they can't be rigidly located as in the tutorial. The top and bottom will never match together if there is no size tolerance included. Well, unless your machine has precision of 0.000001mm :-) But generally - tutorial is great!
Hi, Marek. Thanks for watching and glad you enjoyed the tutorial. Per the pinned comment, I forgot to discuss and add tolerances in this tutorial. I did have a successful print after adding tolerances. Cheers, Kevin :)
4 года назад
@@ProductDesignOnline Hi Kevin, Generally it would be great if you take care of such a details in your tutorials. As complete beginner, I would like to be aware of such aspects. I know that tutorial is focused on different subject but very often, knowledge passed in background is equally valuable ;-)
I just got back to using Fusion 360 for my designs again, as I have started to work with 3D printing. This walkthrough is packed with information that helped me get back on the horse again. Thanks for doing this! Great walkthru!
Kevin, Hi I downloaded the file but when I tried to open a new file, I got the dialog box asking where I wanted to open the file from. I chose my computer, download, but the file wasn't there. I opened the download file from the bottom ribbon on my computer, and there was much more of the my downloads with the downloaded file there. I tried to open it with fusion exe, but am getting a warning from fusion "upload raspberry-pi-model-b-1snapshot.3zip via the data panel to make an editable Fusion design". I don't see it in the data panel. Any thoughts, thanks.
Hi, musoangelo. Are you on the new “Personal Use” license? It may be due to the restrictions of file types that can be uploaded. For your convenience, I’ve placed the RPi in a separate Fusion 360 file. Use this Fusion 360 link - a360.co/2ORsblA Click the blue “Open in Fusion 360” button It will take a minute to download the file (cloud). You’ll then be prompted to “Open” or “cancel”. Select open and the file should automatically be opened in your Fusion 360. Be sure to save the file before you try to insert it into the file per the tutorial. Let me know if that works for you! Cheers, Kevin 🙂
Glad you found a good model to work from. GrabCAD can appear to be flooded with troublesome models...so finding a good one is always a bit of a challenge. Cheers, Kevin :)
Hi, ajas. I wasn't planning on making a video since the process may change and it would become outdated quickly. Please refer to this help article - bit.ly/renew-license Cheers, Kevin :)
Thanks so much for this! I'm building a case for a custom 18650 battery pack and the tip for constructing the lip between the two halves of the case is immensely helpful!
Well done tutorial. You didn't assume that the viewer knew all of the tool selections as you selected and used them. This makes your instructable much more effective than a lot of "teachers" on this subject.
Kevin, I just bought you a coffee and at the same time wanted to tell you how much I enjoy your content, lessons and work flow logic - thanks for sharing these, you have made my work so much better!
Hi, Jim. I really appreciate your support. That means a lot to me and every little bit helps me continue to create high-quality content. I'm glad to hear you're enjoying all the tutorials so far. Cheers, Kevin :)
If you are using the new Fusion 360 where Model workspace is now Design workspace, you can find the Overall Slot command by typing "s" for shortcut and searching for Overall Slot.
I keep coming back to this video to do a refresher on many of the details that Kevin touches on. Nothing to do with a RPi case but, everything to do with being and keeping organized while you're drawing.
Hi, kevin If I 3d print it, I think COMBINE command for ridge is not having tolerance so I think you need to do press pull to the groove of the top component, like 0.3mm What do you think about it? cheers
Hi, MAKER HOME. There are a few different ways to achieve tolerances. You can do press pull as you mentioned. Otherwise, you can copy the body and use the offset tool to make the tolerance you desire. Then, use that second body (the copy) with the Combine command to subtract it. I'll have to make a video on tolerances at some point. Cheers, Kevin :)
I absolutely AND greatly appreciate these videos. Kevin is a phenomenal expert with Fusion 360 & has great teaching skills. The only improvement I would suggest is to go a lot slower so that we can follow along without having to constantly stop the video, catch up in our Fusion 360 window, then back up the video and start again for the next step. When you are a professional who is completely familiar with the product, it is easy to fly through the steps, but when you're a novice like me - not familiar with the locations of the tools/menus - it takes time to find them. What complicates things is that it seems that Fusion 360 is under constant upgrading/changing so there may be very slight differences in the version we're using vs the version Kevin has used in the tutorial. (Someone needs to teach the Fusion 360 development team the concept of version control.) Thanks, Kevin, for providing these videos!!!
As I was trying to insert the reference Pi, It would not work. it shows up but nothing in the data. Is it doing that because of my Free 30 day trial? I am saying I have not bought Fusion 360, I have the free trial
Kevin I just finished this tutorial, I would like to 3D print a battery cap onto to the top of a Ryobi Battery. I know I can use the extrude and shell commands to create the cap, Could you point me to a video that will help me create protrusions along the sides of the cap to run wires to the battery terminals on each side of the cap. I figure I could use the pipe command to create space for the wires under the cap, but I an not sure how to join the pipe to the cap to create the space for the wires to run along the sides of the cap on the inside. Thanks so much.
new ui would not let me extrude the inner circles. Every time I selected extrude you saw the top case become solid so you could not see into the case at the circles.
Hi, James. With this issue, it's hard to say what it would be without seeing it. Can you double-check that your "Case" component is active? You may also find it easier to hide the RPi component so it's not in the way while you try to select circles. Cheers, Kevin :)
@@ProductDesignOnline I have the same problem with the video and the new UI. I'm stuck at exactly the same spot of trying to work with the inner circles.
@@dmccallum35111 Hi, Donna. Would you be able to share a link to a screenshot? If not, send the link to your Fusion 360 file so I can take a look. Cheers, Kevin :)
@@ProductDesignOnline Your tutorial at 12:05 shows the Sketch menu. I use the shortcut key P. But I can't get the four inner circles to highlight. drive.google.com/file/d/1Vb1sZbjQvLGGcdKn8Ey6b5e5o9I6Utyb/view
PRINT. I always learn so much from you, Thank you. A small suggestion, and I was not going to say this till I heard you do this 3 times. When you describe a key shortcut, you give a word beginning in the same letter. Like the move tool, but you say M, as I’m Mike. Then you said another one. Around 6:50 you said the following, (and it compelled me to write this) you said Fillet, F as in Foxtrot. Why would you not (to help instill the learning and meaning of the command of Letter) say the move tool key shortcut M as in Move. Or F as in Fillet. I mean wouldn’t this help people to remember what the letter would mean and it also confirms the letter you say, it’s weird. I feel bad trying to correct you and mention this but, it make so much sense to actually reinstate the command beginning with the same letter, instead of a random world.. M as in Move. P, as in papa, why not P as in project. Or O as in Oskar O as in Offset...Maybe you do it since, the words have a bit of humor?...Only a suggestion. I know, every one is a critic, really still appreciate your teaching.
Hi, Brian Life. Thanks for your feedback. I'm always open to hear constructive criticism. I'm using the NATO Phonetic Alphabet, not random words that start with the same letter. The purpose of the phonetic alphabet is to ensure that letters are clearly understood even when speech is distorted. In my years of teaching, I've found this to be extremely helpful with non-native English speakers. On top of that, many of the keyboard shortcuts don't match their letter. For example, the "Press Pull" command is activated with the keyboard shortcut "Q". Cheers, Kevin :)
I'm sorry to be harsh, but this is just garbage for FDM 3D printing. It's a perfect example of cad blindness, drawing unprintable geometry. Midplane was the wrong plane, creating a long bridge. The clips will print badly without supports, and need lots of fettling with supports.
This is a great video! I struggled with snaps and the top-bottom registration. Your approach with the bead and groove, excellent and soo simple. Thanks.
Instead of offsetting other 3 circles (13:19) why not just offset 1 of them and use equal constraint to size other 3? + If you need to change size. You can just change 1 and all other updates. Anyways awesome video as usual!
An excellent tutorial! I use Fusion 360 for home projects and this helps me leverage the software even more! I have a pi4 which I use for octoprint configured with relays and buttons for PSU control and lights. My latest project is integrating homebridge, RF transmitters for remote control outlets, pi hole, and Shairport Sync onto the same pi. I also have a pi zero w which I am setting up with homebridge to control a solenoid to push a door buzzer to open an external door. Thank you!
I printed it out and it came out pretty good (FDM), but immediately one of the snap-fit tabs snapped off (when removing supports) Using a .6mm nozzle I am going to go back down to .4, hopefully for an extra profile - I would also recommend making the positive tabs a bit beefier and perhaps even filleting them to the interior surface to strengthen. Do you have any recommendations for other snap-fit tabs?
I've been trying to self learn 360 for a month now, got a few things made on thingi right now but HOLY SHIT! How do you not have more subs? You have the best tutorial I've seen on 360 stuff. I love the way you phonetic the letter presses. Seriously, some of the best stuff on youtube right here.
Thanks, Chomp Roth! I appreciate the kinds words. My channel has been having steady growth, so hopefully, it will keep gaining traction. Don't hesitate to comment on any of my videos should you have any questions. Cheers, Kevin :)
Yup! Regularly RPi in all kinds of projects. While I'd make some modifications to this design for personal preferences, the aim of the tutorial is understood. It was well thought out, as well as executed. Thanks for another great video Kevin!
Thanks, John! I'm glad you enjoyed this one. What kind of projects have you made with the RPi? The only thing I've used one for is remote printing for my 3D printers. I'm always pondering/reading RPi projects but never make the time to tinker with everything else on my plate. Thanks again for watching and commenting. Cheers, Kevin :)
@@ProductDesignOnline My RPi projects include a DIY Android Auto and a media server. With the release of the 4, my next project is a ChromeBit alternative to replacement for my mother's aging Intel Compute Stick. I've had her 100% online for years, so moving from Windows 10 to RPi should be uneventful. Then there's the added bonus of faster performance with the 4GB RPi 4. I also have several projects queued up for work. Part of our business is tradeshow exhibits, and RPi is the perfect platform to control things like lighting and content. We're even looking at controlling some of a customer's equipment, which will only be shells at shows. It's fascinating and so rewarding to do things with less than $100 worth of equipment that once required $40,000+ PLC's.
@@ARepublicIfYouCanKeepIt Some interesting projects you're working on. I'm glad you mentioned tradeshows...I have a friend in the industry. I'll have to reach out to him to see if they use RPi at all. Seems like a good use case given the amount of technology that seems to be required for modern exhibits. Re: the ChromeBit project. That's pretty sweet. I always liked the idea of making DIY projects that aren't dependent on these big companies products... less data being collected ;)
Enjoyed this video. I was searching for a solution to my inability to remember where a certain item was located within the menus. Guess this is as common in many other applications with such flexibility built-in. After searching a couple of videos I was exhausted. Thinking some kind of cross-reference via text and time in order to find "How to" a bit easier. For example, I was searching for how to split or cut a box into two separate items from one item. Not sure if you covered this so started watching video after video finally stopped and decided to write this little blurb for you to maybe help or ask for help in creating a cross-reference for your videos. Let's be honest this would be great to have and if you could, for example, look up "dimensions" and it would tell you what video to watch or link it to the video. Just a thought.
Hi, Rud Dog. Interesting thought - thanks for the suggestion. There are a lot of things I would like to add to my website... and I agree a better way to find certain topics would be helpful. I'm hoping to add a more proper search box that pulls up anything relevant will help. Majority of my time right now is going to my woodworking course, but this is on the todo list for after that. Cheers, Kevin :)
holy crap I am pretty tech savvy but brand new to CAD in freeCAD parametrically trying to create a case took me 2 days and I only got this far, and I have been thinking all night how to create the walls and a top section and what the next approach is going to be. in freeCAD if you mess up you are screwed essentially permanently and there are a ton of random errors and the UI makes absolutely zero sense so you have to look up tutorials (which don't exist) for every single action. You spend 99% of the time trying to figure out the software instead of actually designing. Whereas modeling my compete PCB in fusion360 took 2 hours and now i'm moving on to designing the snap-in case freecad is for morons
