You I love your fusion videos for the fact that you are willing to record and go over standard operations even though they have been covered in previous videos. Repetition is a great learning tool. Keep up the good work!
P6 is press fit class 6. It's a standard press fit classification. Generally it's considered a "light press" meaning you can cold press the pin in place with an arbor press. The first diameter call out is the nominal dowel pin size. The P6 is calling out for a class 6 press fit. The numbers in the ( )'s are the reference tolerances for that class press. But as long as you maintain a light press fit for the pin, you can exceed those reference dimensions. The E in the triangle should be referencing to Note:E written on the print. It's probably a "mask hole before plating" note. The .125 dia down dimension isn't technically a counter bore by that call out. It's simply a .125 dia hole so you can use a drill to make it rather than a C-bore tool or an endmill. Just as long as the full .125 dia is to the specified depth. I.E. Compensate for the drill tip angle. Oh. And that's what those funny shaded circles are. They are dowel pin call outs.
This the most helpful Fusion tutorial EVER. Much better than those on the site because you really walk us through the steps, showing common mistakes as well as successes. Thanks so much. I am 74 years young and still learning. Now I am hooked on Fusion!!!
Yes, I for one would LOVE to see this going into CAM. Maybe we can do a comparison to how it's made manually -vs- CNC. Take the link from my channel of me making it. Excellent John, as always. I really appreciate seeing one of my jobs, turned into a CAD model - loved it!
I have been struggling with Fusion 360 tutorials for weeks. This was straightforward and clear for a beginner to Fusion. I have both Autocad and Microstation background from many years ago. Fusion 360 is great but like entering a foreign land and you don't speak the language. Thankyou!
Thank you for a really great mini-tutorial! Very clear and thorough ...I think it's a miracle that anyone can work in inches..... at least there was no fractions mentioned 9for me to get my head around!
at 7:22 you just drag through part for full extrusion. use extrude to next and select the bottom of the model. if at any time your height changes then the hole will follow the change automatically.
Dimensions in ( ) mean they're reference dimensions only. Meaning.non critical tolerances So for instance that (1.250) you could simply use standard 1.25" stock without cleaning up. It may also mean that they have called out the same dimension in more than one view. You can only have a dimension with a tolerance spec called out in a single place. But sometimes to help the manufacturer they will duplicate a dimension in multiple views and list them as a reference. As is the case with both the 1.250 and .930 dimensions. They're reference dims in the top view. But they are non-reference dims in the bottom view. There is never ever ever a "negative" dimension on a print. All dimensions are a positive value with a specified direction.
Yup. The .125 dimensions are as they're specified - unless there is a tolerance specifically called out (which there is, in one spot). The range of .1246 - .1243 is that P6 "Fit" - since those holes will be for a press-fit alignment pin. Ditto on the .0938 P6 fit. We have the .0935 - .0933 range for another press fit. I'm happy to say that when I made these manually, I was in spec on every piece. Needless to say, I was extremely happy and impressed with my DRO's capabilities :)
If no one else has already commented on it the notes and symbols are all notated on the drawing if done properly and you can also look up on Google eng. Drawing symbols
sure liked it! (and again, also the tips you give during the process, like clicking on the name, preferences, preview-stuf).Love to see it created on the cnc also, although i am especially learning all this Fusion-360-stuf so I can start creating something on a lasercutter.Love it, keep them coming! ;-)
Another note. When modeling a plus nothing minus something dimension. Do yourself the favor and model it at MMC (maximum material condition). For example that .260 +.000/-.005. Model it at .255. That way you're 100% sure you won't blow the tolerance by accident should your endmill cut a hair oversized.
Interesting. How does that work when you want to project on a plan? I think we really need the tolerances on the sketch itself. Do you have to have a CAM model at MMC and a reference model at nominal?
nraynaud1 Not sure what you mean... If you were to put another feature. On the surface. Any dimensional references has to come from a datum surface (a 0,0 point). Or if you do dimension from it at MMC the tolerance stack must be ample enough to accommodate that slot width anywhere within its tolerance zone. As long as it's modeled with everything in its tolerance zone (regardless if it's at MMC or LMC) the part will still be correct. In this case modeling it MMC ensures that when it comes time to do the CAM you won't over cut that dimension. If you did a straight cut and the model has the width at .260, and you're cutting 2 tenths oversize. You just blew the width by 4 tenths. If you model it at .255 and you over cut. The dimension will come out at .2554. Still within spec. And if you under sized the width, you still have material you can remove to hit the dimension
when you want to generate a a plan from your CAD model, if your dimensions are at MMC they are not at nominal, so the dimensions on the plan will look weird.
nraynaud1 slot width on the model at .260. For a +.000/-.005 wouldn't be at nominal either. Nominal would be .2575 +\- .0025. This is taking a drawing and making a solid of it for the purpose of having a CAM model to machine off of. You are best off creating the model at MMC. Because then, worst case scenario you just have to remove some extra material here and there. Iot easier to take more material off than to try and put it back on... When doing a drawing from a solid, you can adjust the dims on the print however you want, regardless of what the model is made to.
I have been using Fusion for my 3D printing (well, and for drawings too). I model the threads and print them. A #6 is pretty iffy, but 12 mm makes nice holes and screws (such as new knobs for your mill/drill). From my results, the hole size is irrelevant because when you model the threads, Fusion replaces it with the right minimum and maximum sizes.
thank you for all of the valuable information in this series. you've taught me enough to use fusion for work. got a promotion and a new computer out of it :-)
There is a way to convey tolerances on CAD models. but some products that also handle PLM (product life cycle management) are required. They would go into your STP or IGS file (to transfer between different software) but native Soilidworks and NX should be able to handle some if not all of these PMI informations
just getting back into Cad and cam after about 15 year break. Just got my own CNC machine this year. great videos, would love to see you post it to G code and machine the part.
Great video! I've been playing around with Fusion for a few months now for drawings, the projection of circles was frustrating! I'd love to see a similar video for cam and setting the work up in the mill too; I've rarely played with that. Thanks heaps for sharing!
At 6:25 you weren't able to set the dimension with the other dimension defined. Something I stumbled onto, if you hit D to select dimension, then select the center of the circle first, then the line you want for the dimension. You might already know this, but it's worked for me. Thanks for the great videos!
Hi John, enjoyed this video as always, and +1 for the machining. One small complaint, I found it almost impossible to see your cursor when you were on the drawing. Maybe consider a different color or size cursor when making videos. thanks Terry
This is a great topic and exactly what I need to transition from a a piece of paper to something I can do on my benchtop CNC. Right now I'm struggling with the Red and Green lines. When click on the face between those I end up with the FRONT showing up while your's shows TOP. What do I need to do to get in the same orientation?
Just drawing the side view slot as a rectangle with one side colinear to the edge would have saved a lot of time. Fusion doesn't care if you have overlapping lines. Other CAD software is not as forgiving on this point.
Just a note, when i tried this and actually put threads into the holes, i found you need to put the holes at the Major dia not the tapping drill. If i used the tapping drill sizes the threads available were incorrect. Any thoughts ?
Hi John ! Right the video I was waiting for - simple and easy "how to get going" like a PRO - thx for sharing ! What I DON'T like is the way the drawing is shown on the screen though ! My brain is so 3D oriented that it alarms me when the drawing is NOT in perspective and I can't see ANY argument for NOT having perspective ON in ALL situations ! Anyway it's often turned OFF automaticly - why ???????? How can I turn this ON FOREVER as a default ?
Great help to us beginners, thanks. Has the "Preferences" menu changed in Fusion? At minute 4:48 in the video the preferences are shown for "Preview" and John recommends checking the checkbox for "Sketch". I am assuming the versions have changed in the last almost one year since John made this.
I did some checking, I think the "P6" on the bottom view refer the fit type (interference in this case). The parenthetical numbers show the range of the finished size. I am not sure what the "Triangle E" - possibly a revision note? You forgot the Chamfer - 8X C.02...
P6 is an ISO tolerance for the hole dimension. It alone does not denote what kind of a fit there will be in the part inserted into the hole. Closest recommended fit in shaft base dimension is P7/h6 which is described as: "Locational interference fit for parts requiring rigidity and alignment with prime accuracy of location but without special bore pressure requirements. "
John, great demo. Yes please on cam. btw: is screaming fast. As a new person I have spent many hours on something similar and still do not have it correct.
Hey John! Just wondering, you don't seem to ever use the hole command, is there a reason for this or is it just a habit to sketch and extrude the holes?
hi john, nice video, i have a question about extrudes it is if i draw a sketch of a circle for an example, then put two circles on it and then extrude it i get two hole all cool so far, now if i go back into the sketch and add two more circles to it, they don't extrude as well when i stop the sketch, i have to wind the sketch back, sketch all four circles and then extrude it again and i get all four holes wot am i doing wrong ?? thanks as always daniel
When I orientate as you did in this sample tutorial I end up with an orientation of FRONT not TOP. That is to say that when my green line is vertical and my red line is horizontal per the screen. I can't recreate your orientation. Any idea why? I am on a trial testing out the product, so, perhaps is not working properly?
() are reference dimensions. No should such thing as negative dimensions you cant inspect to a negative number. You such have used the hole command to make all those holes.
Chief Machining is correct. The () for the .930 and 1.25 indicate they are reference dimensions. They could and should be removed from the print to clean it.
You should check out CNC machinist pro app for android, it has a glossary of symbols that you commonly find on prints and a huge library of surface feeds, g code, m code and alsorts of other useful stuff. The only paid app I've ever bought and it is one of the best I've used for machining manual or cnc.
So... the back engine is the same, but the the user interface is different? Been curious as to how Fusion 360 compares to HSMWorks Express, which is what I use with Solidworks. Originally I came from Solidcam since they were/are a gold partner with solidworks when we first got our Solidworks package at work. It was what our reseller recommended with solidworks so we thought "ok". But having used Solidcam, even though it is a good product, it does have a steep learning curve. Not good when you have an asshole boss screaming at you "WHY ISN'T THIS DONE YET!!???"
It should be in the sketch panel that appears (the one with the constraints) when you are editing a sketch. The option in "Grids and Snaps" grays out in a sketch since it's for controlling the grid in the 3D environment.
Yeah, thank you. Someone on the Autodesk forums finally pointed that out. Personally, I think it should be the same control as the one used for the non-sketch view, but at least I found it. Thanks!
Maybe not the same control, but definitely in the same place. I like to have the grid on while sketching, but not in the 3D environment. Glad the Fusion Forum got you squared away!
john is possible to put subtitles in Portuguese many mechanical technicians assitem you here in Brazil can be generated by RU-vid subtitles just to have a little more sense #brasil
I hear alot of people talking about autodesk having released free version of their CAD/CAM. I believe ThisOldTony made his CNC because they were making it free. but I cant seem to find it. I would like to learn it but I aint got the cash. could anyone direct me the right way?
BTW, anyone else catch the mistake Brad made in inspecting the slot? if his upper limit on the slot is really .260, a .260 stack of gage blocks should NOT fit, even if you can't feel them being lose. This is why you typically use a .2600 MINUS pin/block as a "no go" (you would wring up a .2599 stack if you have inspection grade) and use it as a no go. You would also wring a .255 PLUS stack (or pin - call it .2551) and it must GO - classic go/no go inspection
BTW, I didn't see him gage the 2 press fit .125 holes (.1246 - .1243). That is actually a "fun" one with only .0003 between the top and bottom. Measuring that is even beyond pin gages, which typically come ever .001 with a tolerance in workshop grade of .0002. You'd have to go to class X pins in "tenth step" (+.00004 for plus, minus .00004 for minus) and order the pins ($125 for a nominal .124 set, and they go up and down by .0001 - 10 pins on either side) This is the classic place where experienced floor machinists start to laugh at call outs that just are not practical "in real life" but if the engineer put it there, and you can't talk him/her out of it leads to the price of the part being insane Yes, I realize that is what the ISO P6 numbers are. The standard "dowel pin" numbers (US) would call it out as .1245 +- .0005, and then you could gage it with a pair of more normal pins - a .124+ go, and a 125- no go
5:20 What the hell are you talking about? There are no negative dimensions in drawings, except on tolerances. Even right there, you noticed that the number need to be stated a positive. Origin point is an arbitrary thing.
JuriDC Yep. You're right. I plead watching on an iPhone screen for missing it. But technically that's an inadequate call out since no chamfer angle is given.
YOU MOVE TO FAST MAKE TO MANY MISTAKES. I SEE IT. BUT IM AN AVID CADSTER. SLOW DOWN, CHECK THE ISO VIEW ( THE PRINT GIVES YOU ONE) I DO 50 % OF MY SKETCHING IN THE ISO VIEW. THIS IS IN MY CAD PROGRAM. JUST A THOUGHT.
Thank you for this tutorial. I don't do CNC work, but I do work with a 3D printer and am just starting out on designing my own parts to print. Thank you.
