Thanks man my check engine light popped up vdc slip. Car turned off while I was driving and had a weird idle I knew it was a camshaft. My obd said it was bank 2. Thanks for the video!
Blessedsinnerscent I have the exact same symptoms with the check engine light, vdc off and slip off lights. Then, my car stalled while driving then weird idle. I connected a code reader and all I get is U1000 which could mean that there is a open in electrical somewhere. How did you check to get 'bank 2' on your obd?
I replaced this sensor to and man was it fun but then again I didn't remove the intake. My skinny ass arms fit right behind the engine manifold. Great content bro
Unlike what a bunch of people are saying, in the comments about not having to remove the engine, cover air intake components I would prefer to do it the way you did because whenever I take the time to work on my car for any reason, I try and as much preventative maintenance I can do while completing the main job kind of like you did with cleaning out the throttlebody so tomorrow when I decide to replace my sensor going to do it exactly as the video shows. So thank you for the content it is guys like you who make videos like this that has save me a ton of money, and also made me a somewhat decent early stage auto mechanic!
Thanks bro! Used your video today! Thanks for showing the new sensor, I needed to know which one I needed (straight or angle) and you showed which one went to bank 2. Thanks bro!
This is true. I didn’t believe you until I replaced that sensor yesterday. For anyone reading this, it is possible to replace the driver’s side sensor from the passenger side. The only catch is that you’ll be doing it by touch.
From what I am reading the people who replaced the sensor without removing the parts they had to do it by feel. So imagine the kind of video this would be if that was the case he wouldn’t be able to show us what he was doing at all.
I was able to remove both sensors by leaning over the right fender with my tools and feeling for the 10mm bolt to loosen it. The passenger side I can see, the driver side I couldn’t see and had to do it by feel. I had to go by feel to install them, Just go slow and don't get upset, it can be done.
@@CastellanosMotorSports Oh I did it this Morning…Piece of cake…Actually got to it like someone said in the comments without having to take all that shit off..Thanks again 💪💯
Nothing wrong about the way its done in this video..but like a few others mentioned already, it much easier and faster reaching from passenger side behind the motor..i used my cellphone for light and Loosened the 10mm bolt, and finished taking it off by hand so i didn't drop it into the motor..and just the reverse to put the new one back on...only 10 min job.
Thanks for the video. Did you have difficulty getting the sensor out once you unscrewed it. Mine rotates in either direction some, but I haven't been able to pull it out yet.
Great Video, My Question is should I sell my 2008 Infiniti M35 with ( 1. CAMSHAFT Sensor Seals Replacement, 2. Rear Main Seal Leaking, 3. Multi Oil Leaks, and 4. Service Engine Soon Illumating when the oil is low ) The car has 160,000 Miles. The Book Value is $2,300. My question is does it make sense to keep the car and repair these issues?
I have similar issues But they quoted me about the same your stating. I have rear main seal leak Oil pan gaskets leaking upper / lower Timing Gasket needs replacing Id say go a shop route if you don’t have a personal trusty mechanic Mainly they are charging you labor for everything Oem parts are decent price
Hi, It knows if it is a sensor on each side or there are 2 sensors on each side. In my Infiniti it says (Sensor A, Bank 2) will there be sensor A and sensor B on the side of the camshaft ? Congratulations for your videos.
There's no need to remove the intake and throttle body for the driver side sensor. It's much easier to do from the passenger side by leaning across the engine and doing it by feel with your left hand and a 10mm wrench. Yes, it's a blind job, but very easy to do by feel, just feel around for the plug and 10mm bolt. Takes less than 5 min. Removing all that stuff is a total waste of time.
@@CastellanosMotorSports lol, cleaning what? Fiddling with the throttle body runs the risk of throwing the idle off and having to administer the idle re-learn process. Not to mention the risk of damaging the gasket and breaking vacuum hoses. The driver side sensor takes less than 5 min from the passenger side using a 10mm wrench. It's 10x easier than the passenger side (Bank 1) sensor.
@@CastellanosMotorSports LOL, it takes 5 minutes to swap the driver side sensor doing it my way. Your way wastes all kinds of time removing unnecessary parts. And why would my throttle body be sucking up grime?!?!?! LOL, that makes no sense.
I replaced mine but I didn’t remove all those stuff. I just leaned at the passenger side to reach the 10mm bolt and boom it took me 10 minutes to replace it
A bad cam or crank sensor will cause hard starting after the engine is warmed up and can sometimes cause the engine to stall randomly. The car will always start when it's cold. It can be intermittent and not happen all the time. Eventually, the check engine light, SLIP light, and TCS OFF light will come on. Be sure to buy OEM Hitachi sensors, the generic aftermarket sensors are garbage and will fail again within a few months.
What do you think is the issue with my g35 it takes some time to start & then the vdc light comes on but it’s saying it’s the camshaft sensor bank 1 , or would it help if I clean the intake ?
Do you know if this is the fix for the service engine soon light giving the code p1084 that calls for exhaust camshaft position sensor bank 2? I bought both parts it called for the possible fix but I wanted to ask if you have any idea if your video is for that code
A.C Production cool I followed your video cause I love how short and to the point you are but still giving the right details on how to do the fixes and I’m so happy you helped me fix my problem, thanks to you and motordyne g35 guy cause after replacing the sensor it gave a code to relearn the idle because of removing the throttle body but keep up the great work, next is the after market head unit video you got
Bro im here because i had code p0303 and fixed it buying a ignition coil and spark plug both new and now code p0345 came up what do u recommend bro?MUCH LOVE BRO IMA TRY THIS SEE IF IT WOKRS ❤
Do they go bad often? Looking at a G35 next week and he claims the check engine light is on because of camshaft position sensors. Trying to make sure it’s not a huge deal.
i need some help my car today and it noticed the lights came on same with all the lights everybody else and it shifted real hard and started running like ass and cut off and wouldnt start but i let it sit for a minute and started back up would this be the problem ?
Check engine light still on 🤦🏽♂️. Just like mine I replaced bank 1 everything was great for like 3 days the check engine light came back on now I have to replace bank 2 and knock sensor lol I can’t win
It would be nice to have the number of the camshaft censor. Because I had to buy both not knowing which one was which. the left and right camshaft censors look identical so it’s all down to the serial number of the piece. If you could link the part in the bio that would be great.
@@CastellanosMotorSports yea i was checking them but i cant tell if their good or bad they look good to me 😬 wen i turn the key in on position fan start idles without crank the car . thanks for respond
I just replaced this like maybe 2 years ago and it popped on again. WTF is wrong with these sensors? The other one did it too around the same time! How is it that the originals lasted like 18 years and now the new ones fucking suck?
@@CastellanosMotorSports Actually, you don't happen to know the torque specs for these camshaft and crankshaft position sensors do you? I couldn't find anything in my Chilton manual
