Prior to even watching this video, I want to say: thank you, Andrew for all the knowledge you provide through these reviews/walk throughs. You are appreciated!
I jumped in with both feet when these first came out and I’ve been so impressed with the quality and reliability. The price point is absolutely spot on and I don’t expect too much from them but they light up a medium set through scrims and modifiers to give a professional look with excellent white balance. Thank you Andrew for another great review.
The ultimate review for me at present would be you reviewing the Prolycht Orion 300 FS, plus their modifiers and including their Projection Lens kit. This Godox seems an amazing lower priced version of the Prolycht Orion 300 FS.
Andrew, this is my new favorite channel. Thanks for all the great content. I really love the reviews but especially the behind the scenes breakdowns. Keep it up!
Godox is actually coming out with the Godox Clamp for Attaching V-Mount Accessories. This will allow you to clamp your power brick, via the strap, to what look to be an all metal or metal and some plastic female v-mount mount. It has a pin in the back that fits in to a separate super clamp. Let me know if you'd like me to pass on the link. I've purchased several of these, however, they are still on back order at B&H. Hopefully they will start shipping soon.
Sounds like version II will be awesome after Godox have seen this review! You find the gotchas that many of us would never have discovered! Excellent!🙏🏾
Bought 3 of them last month. Due to Prime day it was like $479! What a bargain. Output is only like 150w but hey you can not get RGB DMX compatible COB LED for less than 500.
Finally! I've been wanting to watch an in-depth review of this one. I hope they upgrade the firmware with better DMX profile. If only aputure had something like that, well integrated with their app control, it would make a great addition to one's kit.
Hey Andrew, I’ve got a question. It’s kind of off topic but anyway. Your shotbags look amazing. Could your possibly tell me which manufacturer makes them. I own some shotbags but in comparison to yours they look and feel just trashy. I don’t trust mine to last for longer than a year or two. Keep up with these videos. Always fun watch. Greetings from Europe.
There's an insta page Filmtechaustralia They are made by a local crew member. In Melbourne just about all the gaffers and grips use him. We have custom colour bags so we know who's bags are who's. I'm yellow with black handle.
At some point. I have been involved in testing and getting improvements made (as have several people around the world) When Nanlux (Nanlite) are happy they have as close to a perfect light as possible then I will review. This includes the 1200 Dyno and 300B. Their research shows that no one watches follow up episodes when researching a light, so if my first review shows firmware issues then people just take that as the finished product. For example, lots of people didn't buy Forza 500s because they expected the fans to be as loud as the prototype I showed.
I'm currently testing the Fiilex Q5 for review, then I start testing the LD150R. I didn't want to do back to back Godox videos. From the quick look I've had, it's seems a ripper light for the price.
I think DMX profiles refers to how the different DMX channels (IDs) are used. The number of channels: 1,3,4,5,more. And how the channels are used: Individual color channels, RGBW, or Hue Saturation Intensity, HSI. Other scemes? Astera has this chart for their Titan Tube: astera-led.com/Downloads/Profile/AX2-100%20DMX%20Profiles.pdf
How is the fan noise on this Unit? I Got some led spot lights that the Sound guy will have me run in silent mode which causes less output. Or turned off completely. Fan noise is a Big issue for me on the size led spots…. I often use an astera setup for Night int and this light would be a Great tool for bouncing light in the cealing creating ambient light that Can match the rgb levels of the astera tubes and bulps.
Is it right that in full R (or G or B) mode it's much less bright then in CCT mode? In other words 150W of power doesn't mean that I have 150W of pure red light for example?
Someone smarter than me would explain this better.... Blue is a better example to use than red, blue always had a low luminosity because it is a dark colour. The best way I can figure to explain is imagine you have two reflectors the exact same size and you decide to paint then both with the exact same amount of paint. But you paint one reflector white, and you paint the other reflector blue. The white reflector will reflect more light than the blue reflector because the blue reflector is a darker colour. Let's say each led is 150w. That's the amount of power used by the LEDs, not a measurement of brightness.
@@gaffergear Thank you and I agree that W power don't equal to brightness, some lights have less W but more brightness. I mean that if I'm fixing correctly my exposure on camera when CCT mode is set on light at full power, and then switching to full blue 100% power mode then I have very low exposure and have to increase ISO in about 4-8 times. Color modes are much less brighter. Is it correct for this light? If so it's disappointing.
@@sigma-epsilon7434 am not as smart / experienced as this channel, lol, but aputure put out a video detailing how wattage / rgb mode / output impact each other. 5 essentials to look for aputure lighting tips ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-p1uMPyUs8zQ.html it seems the rule of thumb is: need at least 150-120w to light an indoor sccene. approx 300w for outdoors. bicolor light: divide by two (50%) using a gel on a daylight light? 2/3 power (66% output) using a gel on a tungsten? 1/3 output (33%) rgb led? divide by 3 (33%) so 150 light in rgb, like the godox sz150r becomes aprox 50w. so ud need about 3 to light a room? the aputure nova p300c is pricey af, but is 360w divide by 3 is approx 120w for lighting an indoor space. also my first 3 aputure nova's had high pitched noise from psu or panel, seprate from fan noise. still in cali awaitin repairs. more notes from the aputure vid: lighting essentials from aputure. lighting math 5 essentials to look for aputure lighting tips ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-p1uMPyUs8zQ.html bicolor lites: half the output rgb: lose 1/3 output gel daylite to tungsten lose 1/3 output gel tungsten to daylight lose 2/3 output wattage: 2k tungsten equivalent to compete outdoors w sun (300d is equivalent (350w) [ my guess at math: 2,000 divided by 350w [300d mkii wattage] ((2k tungsten outdoor equiv in led))= 5.7times less wattage than tungsten or older version 300d [300w] , 2,000 divided by 300 = 6.7 times less wattage than tungten. so 650w indoors tungest divided by 6.7 = 97w*** ] so 650w tungsten divided by 5.7 = 114w**** watts led equiv for indoors*** ] 650w tungsten equivalent usu suffice for indoors current (amps) = watts divided by voltage 20amps (common usa) = 2,400 watts, divided by 120volts (common usa) led fixtures draw about 1/6 of their tungsten equivalents** ... beam angle: most leds are 25deg thru 55 deg beam angle, spotty/hard wider beam angle, like 80-120: can light 180 deg space, can put light right up to space table scene: 360 spread color temp: 3200 tungsten, 5600 daylite 2k-3200 tungsten, lower number is warmer(edison bulb, fire) daylite 56k to 65k (overcast is 65k for cloudy or fog) cri: 95+ ssi: better, newer standard fan noise? look for passive cooling (heat sink) or quiet fan like 18dB (same loudness as human breath )
Wouldn't surprise me. Some manufacturer have the reflectors optimised to give you a super high reading at 1 meter so they have an impressive lux fact to put on the brochure. That's why I measure at 3 metres, so we get a realistic idea