Need a bridge to span a gap on your layout? In this video I show you a method for constructing a simple plate girder bridge using plain plasticard, some glue and paints. I hope you enjoy.
Thank you Strath, it may take a little more time than just removing something from its packaging but it’s designed to fit the location perfectly and there is the satisfaction that it’s something bespoke too. Paul
hi Paul... you did an excellent job on the bridge.. you're like me ... even though you can't see a certain detail you put it in ... keep up the great work & thanks for sharing... vinny
Hey Vinny, thank you, if it’s there I’ll try and include it. The rivets, however, were a bridge to far (excuse the pun). I investigated the rivet strips but at £20 a sheet I decided against it. Thanks for the support. Paul
Until I watched the video, I thought the girder sections were kit built, blimey they're scratch built, brilliant work Paul. As for the weathered stone work, just couldn't be better, envious!!
Jim, your work with weathering is top notch, nothing to be envious of. Nice to have fooled you with the girders though. Hope you enjoyed your coffee and biscuits while you watched. Paul
Great tutorial Paul, The bridge looks amazing shows what can be achieved in a short time with scratch building love the hided bits of detail under the bridge Thanks for sharing cheers .... Pete
Hi Paul, Great tutorial and love the bridge. I travel under one similar on the way to work each day, you're right about the gap between the steel and brickwork it's on some sort of cushion. Don't forget the battle scars if you haven't already, I've seen plenty of lorries wedged over the years, don't see low bridge sign.
Hi Wayne, thank you. Battle scars on the bridge, that’s an idea I hadn’t thought of. As to the low bridge sign, I’m modelling mid 60’s and am probably going to use the old format of road signs before the Calvert design replaced them. To that end I think a warning notice came on a rectangular info board beneath a triangular warning on a pole rather than mounted over the bridge. I may be wrong but I’ve yet to find photographic evidence of them. If you have more knowledge it really appreciate it though. Thanks again. Paul
Paul , Brian on Great Chesterford Junction uses a cog out of an old clock to produce a line of rivets see plate bridge on his Gormo's Shed . It really does look authentic
Hi John, I think I remember seeing that. At the time of doing the girder bridge I did try applying rivets but the application warped the plasticard and I couldn’t get a neat line with them. I will maybe revisit this if ever I produce another plate girder structure. Paul
@@GalgormHall Paul the reason it worked so well for him he was using some sort of baking foil . Not at all like plasticard you were using , forgot to mention that last cheers John.
Hi Paul Great little tutorial, a bridge would make a great easy subject for an intro to beginners to enter into scratch building, plus its a good way to get a different size bridge to whats available off the shelf.
Hi Timbersurf, this is by no means a difficult build with very few materials to produce the required result. As you say, it would make a very suitable entry to the scratchbuilding world and you get the design and size specification you need. Thanks for the comments. Paul
Hi Paul. That was very interesting and a great result. i am sure this video will help people to give scratch-building a go. The abutments look very good indeed. Stephen
Hi Stephen, if it inspires one person to give it a go then that’s a result. It’s also a very straight forward build so should be possible to complete by the complete novice. I’m really pleased with how the whole piece, including abutments, turned out. Thanks for the kind comments. Paul
Made my lattice girder bridge in a very similar way, around the edges in exactly the same way, then a rectangle cut out of the middle and using L-section, created latticework right accross. Very good video!
Thanks Tony, it may not have the detail of the resin or kit options but it does the trick. You have enough gaps for a plethora of different bridges and ways to build them. Thanks for the comments. Paul
Excellent work there Paul. Simple and effective. You know you can buy transfers of rivets? I think they are 3D printed. The centre girder is a nice touch. You see some where the centre girder is lower than the side ones, as you say to allow for clearances etc. Anyway keep up the good work.
Hi Dave, yeah, I’d seen those transfers but the price made them prohibitive to use. I’ve seen those examples of centre girders too but equally they are produced to the same height as the outer ones. I felt a lower centre piece would be lost by the time ballast is added in to the mix so opted for this instead. Thanks for the comments. Paul
Hi Paul, Fantastic little tutorial/how to. The bridge looks amazing and the attention to detail is superb! I do wonder if a 3d printer would be useful for making a square mould for the rivets that usually go around the each of each plate. Cheers, Michael
Hi Michael, I reckon 3D printers could be the future of model railways enhancing the build process for all modellers but hopefully not to the detriment of the actual skill to create something by hand. Thanks for the comments on the build, much appreciated. Paul
Hi Paul, I have one of those folders too, dry useful. In all honesty it is fairly easy to produce, anyone with some modelling experience should be able to crack it. Paul
Great video, I was wondering how the dividers were done to give the impression of the steel plates. Looks really good once all painted and weathered. Iain
Fantastic tutorial Paul, again attention to detail is top class. I am currently building a full scale mock up of phase one of my project and this plate girder bridge and your previous tunnel face are just what I needed so, with your permission, I will be pinching your techniques! Quick question, do you aways prefer using Contacta adhesive on plasticard rather than the Magic weld types? I have not used Contacta before but it looks very good and certainly in the case of the top girder positioning, much easier to do with 2 hands than trying to hold and paint in the Magic weld at the same time Steve
No need to ask permission, these techniques are really a combination of other techniques I’ve seen and adapted to form a method I’m comfortable with using. As to choice of glues, I’ve always just used the Revell Contacta adhesive although I do like the look of these Magic Weld types that are available now. Your right though, the use of two hands during the girder bridge is essential so the Contacta would probably be a more suitable option. Paul
Thank you Dave, I’ve tried a couple of different methods all of which produce the desired effect. The problem I find is getting that process to repeat in a uniform fashion right the way across the plate. That’s much more challenging so rather than have a wobbly rivet line I’d prefer to do without. Paul
That's me watched all 3 bridge builds Paul and I'm ready to start my own. Can you recommend a basic stock of materials such as plasticard (with thicknesses), I beam, H beams, card thicknesses etc that would cope with most scratch builds. I only ask so that I am not having to order in the stuff I need each time. Thanks Paul
Thanks John. In terms of basic materials you’ll want some 1.5 - 2mm card such as Daler board, plasticard is useful in 1 and 2mm thicknesses, 0.5 0.8 and 1mm square rod for making windows, I beams I’ve only used occasionally and would order to size dependent on the build, other material such as plastic strip in various widths again I’d only buy for specific builds. The only other thing I’d maybe order is the smallest size in U channel from Plastruct which is very useful for guttering. You will find that you can’t buy it all at once as there’s always something that comes up you hadn’t thought of but it doesn’t take long to accumulate a variety of stock as each build takes shape. One other thing, never throw the scraps away, they’ll always come in useful for something. Hope that’s of some help to you. Paul
