Horizontal lines brought me here. Usually people don't talk about this and it seems it can be done with soldering iron the same way as vertical lines which are fairly easy to fix. Thank you.
Thank you so much, Stephen. I appreciate that. I'm just experimenting and hope to make some more videos soon. I have a few projects recorded already, just need to get them edited.
A chemist found out that the optimum temperature for retorbrighting is 76C. Though not many people have found a reliable way to achieve and sustain that temperature without melting the plastic. He said that the reaction took 30 minutes.
No need to overpay for "retrobrite". Put yellowed plastics in a ziploc bag, put in just enough hydrogen peroxide to get everything covered in it, then put in a pinch of oxyclean. Shake well and leave in the sun. Shake and flip the bag over every so often to recoat the plastics in the solution. In direct sunlight you should see noticeable improvements in 1hr.
Very nice and Informative video! Thanks for everything, it's incredible this video only haves 1k visits, also I'm an enthusiast of retro stuff, modding, restoring and that things,I also have a couple of videos on my channel, and they are in Spanish, but if you need something that I can help you I'm here glad to offer my knowledge, keep going and making videos, I think I'm going to start making this videos on English or with subtitles... Very nice video, and again keep doing this
Thank you for your kind words! I haven't been very active on this channel yet, mainly because of work and other stuff but I'm hoping to continue making videos again soon. I have been recording some new things and thank you for your kind offer. I appreciate it! :)
I recommend a screwdriver set that are extremely useful, but if you only do video game consoles and games, then no, because it is expensive. An IFIXIT Pro Tech Tool Kit, and very helpful at some of my repairs and restorations. Oh yeah, an easier retrobright is using 12% hydrogen peroxide in a tub, with the parts you need with metal screws holding it down. Use the sun or well placed uv lights, and for a faster time, use tin foil wrap around it. Check on it and move the screws sometimes and wait until a desired whiteness. Enjoy!
Great video man, well done. What temperature did you use for your soldering iron and do you hold the iron just above the points or do you actually touch them?
I have a gameboy with bivert and backlight. tried fixing my vertical lines but couldn’t get it to work. I don’t think I was letting the iron heat it for long enough or making good contact. Guess I was worried to overheat it but I will try this again and not be afraid to hold it on there for a little longer
Thank you, Cristi. I'm not sure actually, I'd have to check. I'm most likely going to do an update video and do another Backlight install video soon but for the GBC, when I get some time!
@@cristiarhip3942 Awesome! Good luck with that. The main update I want to touch upon is mainly just that the two wires you have to use can, for efficiency be cut more to size so that it's not so long when you put everything back together but it fits perfectly.
I'm sorry, but this video really DOES need an update. I cannot see HOW there is any possibility to use a soldering iron on the white plastic section to fix the horizontal lines. That piece HAS to be removed, or the screen removed again to access the ribbon cable strips. No WAY can the heat pass through that piece without melting it.
I have a question. When you inserted the polarizing film. You said there was the yellow we all know and then rotated it to get a blue color. Could I technically leave it as the yellow? I prefer that look for nostalgia's sake. But want a backlight to be able to see better. Thanks!
What color is your backlight kit? I've seen multiple colors, but the one you showed in your video is the one I think is the most original looking to the DMG.
Hi, it's the white version I'm using. I bought it here: www.ebay.nl/itm/GAMEBOY-DMG-01-BACKLIGHT-KIT-INCLUDING-BIVERT-PCB-Choose-your-color/223103260690?hash=item33f1fd9812:m:m2ZA80VixllEHH5xM3EEmbg
Am I the only one who gets a lot of glue chunks when trying to remove this films? I swear, every video I see I notice that they barely have any residue left after they remove the screen. In my case the glue was so thic that after removing it I had to scrub with alcohol and nail polish remover for over 1 hour and I ended up messing up my screen as vertical lines disappeared and I don't seem to fix it. Is there any tips you can give me to prevent this?
@@michaelda94 Interesting video thx for your tutorial. So you are saying you have to melt THROUGH the thick plastic that is infact the surface of the screen, in the horizontal line trouble area, in order to get to the solder points underneath?
