I love contrast, 20 year veteran here and they've revolutionised the way I paint hordes of models. Recently I've painted 50 poxwalkers in 2 weeks, start to finish. Contrast are a tool, they don't replace the entire toolbox, I've still highlighted and weatgered them with traditional paints in addition. And thats the key, using them in with your regular paints to enhance your technique.
Totally agree. Too many people criticising them seem to think they're meant to replace your whole process. Of course they can be used by themselves, but if you use them to enhance your current process you can get 90 % of your normal results twice as fast.
Same. They're a great tool that everyone should try. I got some for my horde armies, but I've been surprised at how often I use them on my display models. I use them with some more contrast medium mixed in to make subtle changes to flesh tones.
100% while they are fine on their own to a degree, they look fantastic with highlights. They are just a step in the whole process and that depends how far down the rabbit hole you wish to go
I couldn’t agree more. The Contrast paints definitely have their place but they’re not the “end all, be all”. Some people might like painting strictly with Contrast paints others might avoid it like the plague. At the end of the day - it’s all about what make YOU - the painter - happy. Get painting!!
@@tiddleywinks121 I just started using miniature paint they have really helped me feel comfortable with he effects I have been lesrning to creating compared to old school model painting techniques I already knew that work differently due to point differences
To my mind Contrast is great. They finally got my wife, who was scared to paint because she thought she would suck, to try painting minis and built up her confidence. For that alone, I love them.
I'm so glad someone brought this up! My favorite combo has been X-11 chrome (or any BRIGHT/SHINY metallic silver) with a thin coat of Blood Angels Red and highlights of Nuln Oil Gloss gives it this polished metallic red that looks AMAZING. For my Necron wraiths I'll do the same silver base, but put a thick coat of Black Templar all over it and have this oil soaked machine look going on.
Any sort of bright silver (stormhost, runefang steel, aluminum from Vallejo air metallics) plus Akhelian Green is how I do my Heresy Era Alpha Legion and I love the look
I couldn't imagine painting yellow without contrast paints. I looked for years for a quick way to paint yellow basecoats without wanting to hurt myself. Iyanden Yellow over a pink primed model with white zenithal highlight.... man, the results are insane. Best yellow I've tried yet.
Is the yellow one good for metallic gold i.e. weapons or armour trim? I'm broadly looking for a light and dark (white and black) but then something good for metallic silver and gold
@@agentorangecb1 I would say no. Iyanden yellow from the brush has an orangish tint. The method OP describes takes advantage of the airbrush and a thin coat to get just yellow, and the pink primer is used for shadows of the yellow. Gw has a gold contrast equivalent, but I think their retributor armor or a scale 75 metallic will get you a very nice end product.
@@Cajpaintballer Thanks for your input Caj! On the GW site 'method' images, it looked to me like they are using them on metallics and from Kevin Carpenters comment thread it seems some people do this but i guess yellow isn't the best choice. I bought a few and got mixed results so far for matte application... I think that i personally prefer using traditional layers, washes and highlights overall but I'll keep experimenting and find a use for them!
A friend who would never have painted, ever, now paints because of Contrast. I think GW made a great choice in figuring out these paints, marketing them and bringing in more people who found painting too time-consuming or daunting or whatnot.
Anything with a lot of detail is great. I've been painting my friend's Death Guard for him and the contrast paints work so well with all the crevases and details.
100% agree about snakebite leather and wyldwood. It’s so delightful to see a black and white model transform into a rich detailed brown with dark recesses.
This may be one of the best comments sections. I can’t recall a video where I keep checking back in for more color combination ideas. Rock that fez even after your haircut.
The best voice in miniature hobbyism. Very soothing, Bob Ross vibes! I got an okay result with cheap black acrylic hobby paint thinned with water and medium glaze. It's just a base coat but it highlights all the tones and details, so should make painting easier. I am brand new and just started yesterday. My main objective yesterday was to get over my hesitance to paint and not to see it as a hassle or insurmountable! It went okay. I don't have ideal conditions but set up was quite easy and i didn't make a mess. All my models are detailed and it's intimidating but i realised using thin layers didn't lose detail and so there's nothing that can't be undone. Painting with some music on and youtube in the background was soothing and I'm just eager to do more and learn more now 😁👍
i just started a couple months ago after many many years from my early teens painting mini's. Best advice is get a couple of your base colors from a local hobby store and a wash or two. Getting the main 3 Red, Blue, Yellow, and maybe an off white. you can mix to any color you will need at first. keep watching Uncle Atoms vids... he has some great "starter" vids ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Wxc9WX2INp4.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ub5Pb5R5AZ4.html Also Goobertown Hobbies have some great beginner tips. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-v-BlVYFxfRA.html
@@scott4433 Thanks Scott! I was the same.. i played as a teen and just got back in over the last year. I never had patience for painting back then but i really see the appeal now and feel motivated by the excellent minis i have. On reflection, the general purpose acrylics don't mix together well for making colours and my brushes aren't fine enough for mini detailing. I did okay with what i had but it took ages of trial and error and wasn't precise or really replicable. I have ordered some reasonably priced but more appropriate supplies (Vallejo base colours, dark and light washes, fine brushes, desk lamp for better light) and i will check out the vids you recommend while i paint 😁👍🎨
imho: battle ready? go for contrast, it will look ok. then you can learn to add some highlights. then you can switch to old school techniques, if you like painting.
Thanks for your thoughts! Another colour I'm able to get tremendous mileage out of is Flesh Tearers Red. It's such an awesome, complex, rich red that doesn't have the cherry feel of Blood Angels Red. It's kind of like the mature version of that, and I also like to mix it with Agrax Earthshade to create intense and saturated shading for red elements that doesn't dull down the base colour, as Agrax tends to do when used on it's own. It's awesome!
Great video! I am in the same boat you are. The browns are just fantastic. I would put Cygor Brown one level higher. It’s like Frank’s Red Hot. I put that stuff on everything. I find that 99% of time I use the contrast paints as glazes. They thin really well. They do dry a bit glossy but that’s what a little varnish is for. Thanks for all you do for the community Uncle Atom. You’re awesome.
An interesting combo I've noticed for contrasts is using a gemstone technical over a similar color with a metallic base, it tends to make the paint look almost like the candy paint used on classic cars
Painted an Owlbear with contrast paints.....blew my mind as it was perfect for the larger textured surface. Great viscosity to find the nooks easily and I was able to get a good looking paint job very quickly.
For the blues, the only one I use all the time is Ultramarine Blue. I'm painting a ton of figures for a Prussian Seven Years War army and it's perfect for the uniform coats. Blood Angels Red and whatever the name of the pink one is works great for the uniform details like cuffs, facings, turn backs and whatnot. Snakebite leather and Gulliman Flesh are favs too. Overall I've gotten a lot of use out of the Contrast line, I"m a fan.
I love the flesh tearers red Been using it to paint up some red corsairs and its great, goes on smoothly and covers areas well. It's the only contrast I've used so far, I'll be picking up some more for sure, thanks for the tips on other colours to look into.
To anyone who wants to introduce contrast paints to your painting process, if you do a gloss varnish before you put it down it'll flow increadibly well. Also make sure to put on another layer of varnish after if you want to dry brush as they're quite weak. If you are looking for alternatives to contrasts, scale75 has a line coming soon, Kickstarter has finished, keep an eye out for reviews later in the year. The orange and yellow work very well for fire, or using them through an airbrush as a filter. I also like akhelian green.
Just a couple things I've discovered using and experimenting with contrasts: First, some contrasts over a silver/gunmetal look great. If you want a colored metallic, it is hard to go wrong with contrast over Ironbreaker (or your chosen equivalent from another line). Second, you can get a great mix with a contrast over another contrast, or a contrast over itself. I used Darkoath Flesh on a coat of Darkoath Flesh to get a color that looked much closer to a natural black skin tone than with anything else I've tried in the past. I used these two techniques on the weapons of my Nighthaunt to get great looking aged weapons. Undercoat white, Ironbreaker base, first coat Plaguebearer Flesh, then a second, less thick, coat of Snakebite Leather while the Plaguebearer Flesh is still wet. The contrasts will run together in an interesting way that makes it look like it has this patina on the weapon. Finally, on a personal note, Gryphcharger Grey is maybe my favorite color I've seen from a paint. I've used it for some of the cloth bits of my Iron Warriors (there's more than you might think on some characters and plenty on Cultists) and for the ethereal ghosty bits on my Nighthaunt. It has this great quality that makes it a dark blue-grey in the recesses, a light blue-grey on the surface, while still lightly staining the very raised edges.
What a great video thanks, I had a pretty good experience with contrast paints on my pox walkers I got through like 24 of them in 2 3hr sessions, base colours at least. Subbed
Around the time that Contrast came out, I decided to start a brand new Salamanders army using them in GW's advertised "One thick coat and done" method. At first, I loved how quickly they helped me get my army up to a tabletop standard, but I've found over the year or so since that I'm really not happy with the look of them, and have gone back to doing all my marines the old fashioned way. Now I'm looking at going back to all the marines I did back then and repainting them entirely. Contrast paints are a great tool, but I think GW advertising them as a one-step solution is doing them a disservice. Side note: Black Templar is great for getting Salamanders skin done quickly and effectively!
Hi there, I've been looking around for some paint agitators. From the videos I watched people have had issues with rust if the bearings were not proper stainless steel. I'm going to use glass beads to avoid any headaches. Hope you dont have any issues. Cheers!
@@boltthebirb7233 After looking for alternatives to steel I found that hematite beads are recommended and available for cheap on ebay (amongst other places). This is fully oxidised iron and therefore chemically inert. They are also relatively heavy, which may be beneficial as an agitator.
Army Painter Stainless BB's for a fast easy inexpensive way to get agitators in your paint. I used to put copper BB's in my Humbrol paints decades ago. I still might have a couple viable tins of that stuff.
I completely agree with what you said. I will add that militarum green is great, and the bubblegum effect is cool for screens and lights for Warplightning green.
A real mind blower for me was adding contrast medium to the contrast paints. I found on some of the paints in the line it not only lightened the intensity of the color but it also made it run smoother and not get the blotchy finish like when I paint straight out of the pot. I used a ratio of 2:1 medium and volupus pink on my deamonettes an pink horrors and it got rid of the blotchy finish and toned down that color amazingly.
I used Black Templar for an Escher Leather Jacket and absolutely hated it. I've just started using it over a Leadbelcher base on weapons or Titan chassis, and it's perfect! Ends up like a heavy Nuln Oil that also shades the flat sections. Really happy with it.
Great video and I'd love for a lot of the channels that completely shut down the product *coughGoobercoughMidwintercough* to do a retrospective too. They are a fantastic tool in the armoury. One think I'd like to also mention is that the contrast medium is an utter game changer. Experimenting with the ratios of medium to contrast can drastically change the effect and even allow you to paint marines with no puddling on flat surfaces. I'm also surprised no one has raved about Akhelian Green which is the most beautiful intense turquoise ink around.
My cadre of painters (varied experience levels) uses contrasts for all kinds of things, mostly to enhance other techniques. I, too, agreed with your assessment of the individual paints and have a small thing to add: Aethermatic Blue is amazing. Especially for Nighthaunts' ghostly parts followed up by a drybrush/layer of Ulthuan grey and white scar.
What I really like the Contrasts for is to use them over a metal prime/base. Stormhost silver does a really nice gold (with nazdreg yellow) or Brass/Bronze (Gulliman Flesh) for example to use on Custodes. Leadbelcher with a bright color and 50/50 Contrast Medium makes a really nice Candy-paint looking effect. Also using them for leather bags is super convenient.
I see them as a reverse wash, depending on the colour. It pools in the cracks and crevices, but because it is a color, it becomes brighter in those areas and less intense the raised parts.
Yeah, Contrast over zenithal primes is my go to for 28mm these days, and now I've begun adding watercolour pencil highlights! Priming a darker colour then dry brushing a lighter colour also works very well as a base for Contrasts, especially on smaller scale miniatures.
I've been loving them because they make my painting so much easier. Last weekend I painted my new Incubi up in just under a weekend by using the Dark Angel Green contrast and then Drakenhof Nightshade shade over it (to make it blue-er), plus regular drybrushing according to the 'traditional' method. They look very very similar to the other models I did the 'traditional' way, but which took me sooo much more time to paint up because base paints are so much thicker it takes more time and energy to paint with them. Contrast is so fluid that it makes painting many models in one go so much easier. It really has given me new energy to tackle my backlog of models and I've definitely been catching up a LOT even though I'm still working full-time, because contrast makes it so much easier.
I found them to lower the bar of entry for painting when I got in to the hobby. I use them in combination with traditional acrylics and that combo really works. I also found them to be at their best when you have models with a lot of detail for them to flow in to. I think of them as a wash and base in one. You still, I find, want to build up highlights if you want to take them a few steps beyond table ready. I painted my whole squad of wyches in the better part of a day with contrast, then one more day to make them pretty with highlights. I LOVE using some of the contrasts really thinly over metallics, too. It's such a nice effect. Definitely going to give a zenithal highlight a try with them (if it works out, it'll really help save on the primer because holy crap does GW charge a lot of their primers)
The white stuff is acrylic medium for anyone wondering. There's less of it in the colours that have greater coverage (like black templar) and it is in fact the reason contrast paints work, along with a flow aid.
I've found that a light drybrush really improves the final result. Another thing is that if your primer is "rough" as sometimes happens with sprays, it stops the contrast flowing and working properly. Contrast absolutely needs a smooth base.
I haven't really tried contrast paints because I built most of my army paint schemes using the "older" style paints. But if I get an army or kill team project for a new faction I don't currently own you definitely inspired me to give it a go.
I can only agree on the ones you talked about, I use magos purple and the yellow for my imperial fists, which is pretty amazing with a zenithal highlight. Then drybrush it and it looks quite good
I use them as a wash over other colours to achieve really good quick results. Basecoat leadbelcher, highlight it with stormhost and use snakebite leather gives a really pleasing gold. For bases I use astrogranite highlighted with wraithbone then a layer of aggaros dunes contrast makes a dirt brown base. I don't like using only contrast because the models do look a little unfinished if you only use contrast but when used with a few areas of traditional painted areas and an edge highlight or two really makes contrast look great.
I have used the purple on my Slaanesh Word Bearers cloaks and such and Flesh Tearers Red as a base, and then applying the normal lighter dry brush highlights...I find it a lot easier too do, and definitely works pretty well for Word Bearers. Also, as I had heard it, they are a three colour suspension. That white-ish pigment is likely one of the pigments settling out with how thin they are. What I wish you had talked about was how to use them without ruining your brushes. Seems no-one talks about that.
Ultramarine Blue mixed 1 to 1 with Contrast Medium works great for a modern jeans look. Though I still do a drybrush highlight with a grey. Granted that is all I have really used the color for.
I find the contrasts also work really well as a glaze tint. A good example: I was painting some plague monks. Using the ork flesh and the camo greens in a very thin application, ignoring the very brightest highlight, I was able to tint the robes giving more variation to the colors. The other great example, and I owe this to Peachy over in the gw channel, is using a little medium with volupus pink (50/50). Putting this as almost a shade wash over averland sunset buboes. It immediately makes them look sore and swollen. Finish up with a thin glaze of a ivory/cream and they'll look ready to burst. Take that same pink glaze and do it over bugmans on the tails increasing intensity at one end and you get a real nice rodent tail effect
I like how the skin colour of the contrast works well for some of my models, especially with the contrast medium to help smooth the paints to balance them over the surface of the models.
Holy cow I can't believe there's no honorable mention for Iyanden yellow. It makes yellow painting actually possible instead of fighting your chalkyness and transparency every step of the way. Also, I get the sediment reeeaaaally bad on my apothecary white. Can't figure out how to shake it away.
Its so bad in Apothacary white. It seperates really badly in Plaguebearer flesh, too, but that responds to shaking pretty easily. Some folks have suggested adding a glass bead as an agitator (rather than a ball bearing which may rust before you're finished with the pot).
Blood Angels red has become a pretty major staple for my painting of my Blood Angels Space Marines and Terminators. I usually Zenethal Prime them then do Blood Angels Red over it, then lightly drybrush with Evil Sunz Scarlet, and that gives me a pretty fast and really great looking armor color. As for Vehicles, I wouldn't suggest using it on the long flat plates as it leaves a really odd finish that you're going to have to paint over if you want it to actually look like armor.
I've seen great stuff when people use contrast paints in other ways than the "one thick coat" advertised by GW. Putting them over different primer colors, using two thinner coats, and you mentioned contrast over zenithal highlighting, and going over with layer paints after contrast to smooth out patchy areas.
I enjoy using Contrast paints. Using them over a base coat of white or a light beige really makes their effects work well. Haven't tried any over metallic paints, though. Remember, the Fez will be with you...always!
As a relatively new player coming late to 8th edition 40k, the contrast paints have some great uses, I can't imagine trying to paint up 20 or 30 Poxwalkers with traditional/classic method, not only would it take much longer my personal results would be lacking. Great product.
After 20 years I finally started painted thanks to contrast paints. I'm now addicted to them and am improving as we speak. Little by little I start trying out new techniques, such as dry brushing and keep being amazed how fun and 'dimple' this all is. So, for me, contrast paints were like a gate paint: it allowed me to get over the initial barriere!
About metallics: contrasts are great. Just use leadbelcher as the undercoat and you can use contrasts to great effect: add yellows and you get awesome gold, add brown and you get nice bronze, add some colors like blue, green, purple or black and you get awesome colored metals.
I moved my contrast paints into dropper bottles and added a army painter ball bearing helps alot for the seperating colors and i love airbrushing on the contrast paints and mixing my own colors
I like using them for white, and colored metals. They definitely didn't replace my regular painting methods, but it is one more tool in the bag, and helps me get some of my painting done faster.
Contrast has effectively become the major workhorse of my paint shelf. I've used them to paint a few hundred models by now ranging from 28mm Hundred Year's War, Adeptus Mechanicus, to 15mm War of Spanish Succession. My experience has shown that it works extremely well over large and non-technical pieces like robes, boots, backpacks, so on. However, it is extremely well complemented by including metallics and standard paints. In other words, contrast paints work by reducing the heavier workload of your models and thus reduce time spent painting per model.
I like contrast for faces on my Space Marines. I really like to take my time with the classical method of painting, but I am horrible at faces, and in this place, contrast comes in very handy and creates very nice face colour
I’ve made a heavy wash out of two parts cygor brown one part black Templar and about eight parts of medium, put it on and wipe it off with a damp brush and it mimics the effects of an enamel wash pretty well without a ton of effort. I’ve also done a candy apple red using flesh tearers red airbrushed over a bright gold that worked incredibly.
I think using medium with it is unofficially mandatory. It's fast but it can be inconsistent, so the final results can vary as you paint a unit of models. You can still layer or highlight over any coffee stains though.
Ultramarines Blue works if you then gently drybrush the whole model with Caledor Sky. It covers up the patchiness and gives a nice color shift where the crevices are purple blue and the highlights are sky blue.
Using contrast over standard mini paints is pretty slick, and for painting period infantry(Napoleonic-Ww2) they’re really excellent. At the same time, there was that weird launch period where people used *only* contrast and there were these weird neon space marines and stuff. Using them as a tool in the arsenal is really good, but I’m still not entirely sold on the contrast-only methods for a lot of minis.
Sleeping on Terradon Turquoise. That color is fantastic and mixes great with blues/yellows/greens. The yellows and oranges are really good too, but not for coloring robes or armor or whatever. They are good glazes / washes though. Overall the video is pretty much on point. The browns and earthier colors like Militarum green are the only ones I like for 1-coat painting of stuff. The rest I treat like glazes.
They are made with the New&Unskilled painters in mind, to have playable minis quickly. The pro doesn't need them. But for the New&Unskilled , it's a great product to have his minis in a decent look for play. Well done GW
Awesome tip for painting dark brown skin: base your mini with Bugman Glow and then apply Wyldwood over it when it's dry. It makes it look very realistic for dark skin, since otherwise it can look a bit .. wooden. Slight highlights with Mournfang Brown or something like that and it's very astonishing.
I'm a novice painter. Painting is my least favorite part of the hobby. I sing the priases of Apothecary White and Black templar all the time. They are my favorite. I use alot of the warmer colors and get good results and I like orc flesh and warp lightning green aswell. I've used the yellow, the orange and the red do do a bit of a quick and dirty blending fire effect too.
I used only contrast to paint Napoleonics (for the speed) and I am really surprised how good they actually look. Blood Angles red for the British redcoats and Space Wolves followed by a coat of Leviadon for the French and the Apothacary for the white trousers on all.
Nice hat! I'm not certain how to feel about Contrast still. I've barely used them, but I was impressed with Black Templar. Still, I feel like when I start a Tyranids army (which I will probably regret) I'm going to try to use them to help me batch paint faster.
Ultramarine blue - thin with contrast medium , helps with streaking and blotching . also (and i'm sorry i don't remember which RU-vidr recommended this) put the tip of your brush at the top of the area you're painting , draw it straight down , repeat until the area is filled . don't go back and touch the paint . and a light dry brush goes a long way to making a cleaner looking model .
My two cents: the contrast paints generally work well on anything that has an expectation of unevenness or randomness. And if you're really careful, they kind of work as a pinwash. So, Snakebite Leather works really well because aged or worn leather isn't meant to be even. With very few exceptions - best typified by Black Templar - the rest just look blotchy and patchy in places they shouldn't. I think this is why they are really popular for people painting things like Poxwalkers because they are supposed to look random. I think using them as a panacea is wrong, but so is dismissing them out of hand as being 'beginners stuff'. They have their place.
Any of the darker colors like you said brown or blacks that are almost opaque are great, but I think the red and greens are really great for small lights like on necrons or on little optics and scopes or the small lights that are all over terminators.
As soon as I open a a new contrast paint I drop 1-2 metal BBs in a bottle. It works as an agitator and basically Knox the acrylic pigment powder off the inside of the bottle and Reba lens it with feed gel medium in the contrast paint.
I agree with your assessment. Some colours I found were just too close to each other. Blood Angles Red and Flesh Terrors red were so similar that I had to add a bunch of blue to my Flesh terrors to make it more of a burgundy colour. The only blue I bought was Talassar Blue because it gives a cool blue effect whereas the other blues I noticed in the store where kinda meh. I have not tried the browns yet, I was not impressed by the flesh colours but I think I'll have to get the darker browns. And changing the undercoat really makes a big difference.
I find that I use them as filters a lot. I also mix them with inks and some traditional paints for specific effects. Other than a few of the browns and grey, I rarely us them as intended, but they have become an important tools nonetheless.
My view. GAME CHANGER!!. 1) I airbrush the main colour from base to highlight 2) base, wash highlight remaining areas by brush 3) contrast all hair, fur, leather, skin. Tint and highlight as needed. So fast and looks great
I found that can get some results I am happy with and have tried them on bonereapers, squigs, grots and it looks decent. Basecoats of contrast but then highlighting and metalics using the old methods. I think many more people are painting and doing it faster which is much better than facing the grey tide....
I use all of the contrast, what I have found is you need to use the thinner on some of them. If I was going to be picky I would say the line lacks consistency and they could spend some more time R&D / testing. Flesh Tearer and Blood Angels are good examples for me that need to be thinned. Same with the yellow. When you thin the black it really does the edge highlighting effect well. I have painted big miniatures like Bloodthirsters and Archaon using a lot of the contrasts and they have come out really well :)
For me, the contrast paints are good at throwing down a quick base colour to figure out if I like it and then dropping in with real paints works. Or, treating them as a heavy wash - thinking Flesh Tearers Red on Carnosaur Scales.
My buddy uses a small ballbearing in his contrast paints, so when he shakes them it gets all that gunk off the bottom really fast. I have that issue with my appothocary white.
@@gerryjtierney As someone who has had to replaced a whole box of paints because I went the ball bearing route and they rusted I would say listen to tony. Use glass beads and then you wont have to worry about this.
Contrast paints are my go to for glazing with an airbrush now, i mix about 2:1 thinner:contrast and that allows me to gradually build up colour without those nasty brush marks.
I like using Contrast paints on bright silver (Vallejo Metal Color Chrome or Mithril Silver) to make eg. metallic red/blue etc. Super easy and quite good looking.
As a very lazy and sloppy painter, Contrast paints are the best thing that ever happened to me. So much so that they've convinced me to do a bit more work on models, so I'm edge highlighting (never used to) and all sorts now. It was like they unlocked the next level for me
contrast paints are good for so much more than what they were advertised for. Not only they can do the base coat in one pass thing, but most of them make very nice glazes, and pin washes! they are amazing filters and can be used to regain saturation on chalky looking areas. I love contrasts so much, I really wish they had been marked as more than "paints for lazy beginners"
Skeleton Horde contrast is my absolute favorite for bone type colors. It just goes on and I get to move on to other things. If you haven't tied it you should.
Thank you for this video Adam. I was / have never really been all that interested in the contrast paints. On certain things I have found them very useful, especially on a metallic zenithal. But my lacking interest has kept me from buying more than two bottles (one of them happened to be ultramarine blue.. kind of the reason as well why I was put off of the whole thing to be honest). Knowing that you have been messing around with these paints for a year and hearing your summary was great. Thanks for that!
Great video Adam. I know they are expensive and that you can make similar paints on your own using matt medium, but I like them. I am not a great painter but I have been trying to replicate the Alpha Legion Scales done with contrast by JuanHidalgo Miniatures which I think look great. He has been doing a painting series on youtube with contrast and highlights that looks really impressive.
