I had a similar experience with the arm traveling to the 7" position. What I found was the pivot point for the arm at the base was sealed up. I ended up taking all the links from the main drive gear back to the arm to get the bottom plate off. Once all cleaned and greased it work like a charm. Just minor adjustments to the position set screw.
I was looking for a Garrard 301 refurbish video when I stumbled upon your series for the 100S. Having owned a few of these in the past I needed to work out the cleaning and greasing regime for myself. Thank you for posting the content, this is exactly the sort of information that gives one the confidence to get stuck in and give the maintenance on the older turntables a go. Well done!
Hi Brett, I have a couple suggestions on the foam. First, if you remove the foam from the springs, and put them inside a pillowcase or something like that, then throw them in the dryer with your regular laundry, the will go back to their normal shape and thickness. You can then simply put them back in and it should be good for a while. If you find that this doesn’t work out, you will have to hunt around for something that will work. Wal-Mart or your local fabric store should have some foam that is of similar density. The foam pieces are about an inch and a half, circular in diameter if I recall correctly. You don’t want that foam too densely packed, just dense enough to dampen the spring movement.
Thank you so much for all these videos I feel so much more confident in doing this mine would bind with the power switch or not fully stay on and now I see why.
Thanks Sbradiganz! Don’t give up on it. I have managed to get 3 of these from the junk pile to damn near perfect condition... lots of time, but they are pretty much fixable almost no mater the problem. The major issues are all covered in the videos, so hopefully you will get your project over the finish line!
Very nice series, thank you. For what it’s worth, yes, we can get Spray Nine here. I’m not sure about brick-and-mortar retail stores, but it’s listed on US Amazon. Otherwise I’d just drive to Niagara and get some :)
My Speed Control is stuck and won’t budge. I suppose I could oil the moving parts on the underside but could you possibly do a video on taking that mechanism apart to lubricate properly or what could be done in these cases. Thanks much for taking the time to do these videos.
Thank you very much for this series of helpful vids on the Zero 100. I’m restoring an SB (UK version) and after a hundred issues all solved by myself, I was finally ready to try the turntable out. And then I discovered my Garrard suffers the same tonearm problem as yours, as it always goes to drop the arm in the middle of the platter as if it was for a 45, when on auto... also the tonearm wires unsoldered, so I need to resolder them in place... I love this machine but it’s exactly like all British machinery: beautiful but full of issues! Greetings from Scotland!
Yup... I have the tonearm overshoot issue too... I had it all sorted and working fine after I refurbed everything above the chassis, but then this problem developed after I refurbed the bottom. I think when I freed up a seized sprung pawl near the tone arm, it no longer had the power to move the mech connected to the diagonal rod that goes over to the speed/sizes selector switch, and I'm nervous about lubricating the nylon pivot that seems to be creating all the drag? Tomorrow I will make the diagonal rod mech 'super free' as suggested .... wish me luck....
I'm also confused by the fact that the stepped lever (On which logically I assume each step relates to a record size) at the tonearm end of the diagonal rod does not appear to interact with anything else. I'd assume I had put it back together wrong, if it wasn't for the fact that I haven't dismantled it since it was working?
Yup...The tonearm end pivot of the diagonal rod was the problem.... one more 50Hz Garrard zero 100 sc ( #77607/004) with Empire 999 RE/x cart totally sorted! ...sounds awesomely warm, detailed and rumble free, through an Akai AM-2650 amp and B&W DM 570 speakers. One very happy owner! Thank you so much!
Mine has a sticky tone arm "elevator" that sometimes doesn't retract and I have to push it down manually. Have you ever experienced this and is there some way to fix that.
Just came across this last month and thank you so much for this awesome series. I was able to get my Zero 100 (from goodwill) unseized, lubricated and up and running using this video. I still have an issue similar to what you have at the end of this step. On auto, the tone arm goes to the middle of a 12 inch record (about 7 inches even though the setting is on 12 inches., At runoff the tonarm returns but then wants to start again. I freed up the part you show under the tone arm connected by the long bar to the speed selector switch but this issue still exists. Anyway - I am using it now as a good manual turntable but any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Chris, glad the videos were helpful. It sounds to me like you have 2 possible issues. The turntable should shut off when the tone arm returns to the right after playing a record, so I would check the mechanism that is supposed to trip the switch to the off position. I wonder if something is out of position or stuck. You will need to position the table upside down and manually turn the platter etc, and move the tone arm through its range of motion and observe what is happening (or not happening in this case). The same process might help with the tone arm wanting to start at 7” as well. Observe what is happening underneath the tonearm mechanism when you engage the automatic function and manually turn the platter. Look carefully at how the mechanism is working to direct the tone arm to the 7” position, and how all of that connects back to the selector knob. There is unfortunately no simple answer to this, you just need to observe how everything is working and adjust what needs to be adjusted. It looks complicated, but it is really a simple mechanical device of levers, switches, and stops. Hope that helps!
Hello! I happen to find your video on RU-vid. I have a question on my zero 100 unit which I recently got from eBay. I notice that the gears of the turntable platter and the changer cam may be too close that it produces six clicking sounds on the same spot when the turntable platter spins. It disappears during the changer cam operation but returns once the platter is on spinning mode. Have you encountered such a problem and what is your solution? Thanks in advance for your reply and I thank you again for your instructional video.
Hi there, unfortunately I may not be much help with this question, as I have not worked on one of these with a changer. It is likely, however, that this is something that can be resolved by simply listening carefully to locate precisely the location of the clicking and work to eliminate possible causes. An educated guess would be that it is coming from the motor or the idler wheel mechanism. I suspect this, because there is more strain on that mechanism when the cam is in operation, which may make the clicking stop. Once the cam disengages, the only thing moving is the motor, idler wheel and platter. If the noise is not coming from the bearing, it must be coming from the motor or idler wheel mechanism. Check the inside edge of of the platter for imperfections, the idler wheel itself, or any of the associated parts that move. Hopefully you can locate the problem.. good luck!
It’s hard to tell from the video, but if I had to speculate, id say the tonearm lift mechanism is dropping too quickly or not smoothly. If I recall, there is a damping fluid on that machinist that allows the arm to lower slowly. I may need to be cleaned off and replaced. The exact type of fluid used for this is not known to me, but a small amount of dialectric grease should work.
Hi, A few questions for you. I have been through each video several times. They are excellent and they have helped immensely. I am working on my Garrard turntable which I have owned for 45 years. Unfortunately I have not used it in 20 years and thus the need to clean and lube all the parts. I have just finished the cleaning. One of my problems. The power spins and the strobe lights up as orange but the turntable platter will not spin. I removed the motor and cleaned it as you recommend. Is the black wheel supposed to spin also? It is in reasonably good shape. In matter of fact the platter will not spin freely like yours does even with the power off. I will write one question at a time and await your reply Thanks
Hi Dennis. I’ll try my best to answer. Firstly, the brass notched roller that can be seen at the end of the motor shaft must contact the black rubber idler wheel. The brass roller is essentially a series of stacked cylinders of varying diameter that will cause the black idler wheel yo spin at the correct rate to drive the platter at the appropriate speed (45 or 33 1/3 rpm. The black idler wheel must contact the inside edge of the platter when the platter is mounted. I would check first that the brass pinch roller is firmly attached to the motor shaft with the set screw. If it is loose, the motor shaft will just spin and not turn the brass pinch roller. If that part is ok, the next thing to check is that the rubber idler wheel contacts the pinch roller when the motor is running. There is a spring on that mechanism that should hold the idler wheel against the brass pinch roller. You should be able to see it clearly in the video. However, none of this will work when the platter is in place, if the platter is not freely able to spin. You will need to examine this carefully to see what might be wrong. Part of my videos shows the platter bearing assembly, which might help solve the issue. I am travelling at the moment, and cannot look at my own turntables directly. I will be home in a couple days and will have a look to see if I can help further.
@@hollowheadsrestorations HI Thank you for your very clear instructions. A brief update on your suggestions. 1. the brass pinch roller is secure and there is no issue with the set screws. 2. The black idler arm does not make immediate contact with the brass pinch roller when i press either the auto or manual start. It comes about 1/8 inch away from the pinch roller. 3. If i slightly coax it toward the pinch roller the idler arm will spin. I checked the spring on the mechanism and it appears to be in good shape with proper tension. I went back and made sure there was no old grease and used a few drops of your recommended Liberty lubricant. 4 If I look at the turntable With the idler arm and pinch roller on the left - to the right there is a gold metal plate with a c washer clip. I never removed it but cleaned around and on it. Might that be a possible area where grease is slowing down the mechanism and should I remove it and clean underneath? 4. I will address the platter issue after reconciling this issue. Thank you for this guidance. Dennis
dennis burek sorry for the delayed reply, as I mentioned, I have been away and wanted to have a look at my own turntable to see if I could figure anything else out that would help. I don’t think your suggestion about removing the metal plate to clean underneath it is necessary, if your table is like others I have worked on. There is not normally grease underneath that one, unless someone has put it there at some point after it was manufactured. If you suspect that, then go ahead and remove it. It should not hurt anything. The biggest question for me now is whether your platter is spinning freely. If not, you need to ensure the platter bearing is not actually damaged. The spindle can be removed, which will reveal a large washer that sits on top of the bearing. That washer can then be removed, which will fully expose the bearing. You can then clean it mush more effectively using a solvent based cleaner. If the bearing itself is damaged, you have a big problem and will need to find a new one from a donor table or some other source. I apologize, but I haven’t worked on one of these for a while, so I can’t recall exactly how to remove the spindle, but I don’t recall it being too difficult. One problem that also occurs with these tables is that there is a rubber O-ring at the bottom of the spindle, that has likely disintegrated and it can jam up the bearing as well. It just needs to be cleaned out of there. It should be replaced if possible, but does not “need” to be. It is simply a device to quieter the mechanism as far as I can tell. I found some silicone O-rings on Amazon that were an appropriate size. They need to be very thin, or they will jam up the platter. I have some around here. I’ll see if I can track down the exact size. I think you will just need to troubleshoot the mechanism by checking each moving piece to see if it is moving freely, and go from there. Tedious, but sometimes that’s the only way. Hope that helps!
@@hollowheadsrestorations Id love if you could point me at some substitute 'O' rings too!...I scraped the remains off my zero 100 sc, and she runs pretty fine without, but I'd love to hear her the best she can be...
Eldred Godson hi there, the 0-rings are 12mm OD (outside diameter), 10mm ID (inside diameter), 1mm thickness. I used silicone o-rings (available on Amazon or elsewhere) to avoid future deterioration. The size is critical. Too big and it will bind the mechanism, too small and it will do nothing at all. Basically, it is simply to make the thing a little smoother when the gears mesh together. The o-ring should go in the small groove at the bottom if the platter shaft.
hola muy buenas tarde me llamo giovanny y soy de colombia yo tengo 2 tonamesa zero 100c si yo quiero comprar cualaquier piesa donde la puedo con seguir
Giovanny Ojeda Lo siento, no hablo español, así que utilicé Google Translate para ayudarme a entender su pregunta. No sé a qué parte te refieres. La única fuente de piezas sería de otro giradiscos, o de eBay u otro vendedor en línea de piezas usadas.
Well, I have the same speed select issue you had but I for the life of me, can figure out what you are trying to show me :). I can't get whatever it is, back under or over something. Please help. thanks. Jeff
Jeff Still Jeff .. I think I know what you’re referring to now.. the issue of the tonearm dropping in the wrong place? If so, my recommendation is to place the turntable upside down, on a stand as I have done here, and operate the turntable manually to observe the operation of the mechanism under the tonearm. Basically, you want to manually turn the platter and support the tonearm with your other hand (or a helper) to keep it level with the platter as if the table were right side up. Pull the “Auto” switch and slowly rotate the platter, allowing the tonearm to move through its normal track. Observe the mechanism under the tonearm as you are doing this and you will see what I am referring to. When the tonearm is in the place when it should be, look at how everything is lining up in the mechanism.. does anything look bent or out of place or stuck. In all likelihood, that will be the source of your issue. I can’t be more specific than that without seeing it.. it could be a different problem than I had. If you have access to a working unit, a side by side comparison of the mechanicals underneath the tonearm might reveal the problem.
@@hollowheadsrestorations yes, its the last issue you discus here with something bent up and out of place or jamming another metal piece. I just cant make out what I am looking for.
Count me with the same issue I can’t see it but if the turntable cycles and I hold the part that fits in the slot for a 12” it will drop the arm in the right spot.. it feels like it’s binding it does not move freely like you show in the video it’s the very last thing I have to fix on here.
Hi. Great videos. Fixed all my mechanical issues. However once i put the motor back together, it is now not running quiet and making a mechanical clicking type sound. I have taken it apart again and carefully reassembled it. Any thoughts on what i can check or try? update: the magnet was detached. While trying to fix this, the balance ring unglued. Tried carefully gluing them back together, but this is hard as there is a specific position they have to be in to be in balance. See www.wiredwood.co.uk/wordpress/garrard-synchro-lab-motor-repair-for-zero-100-sb-turntable/ motor is now getting worse, so i will try again or will have to buy a new one.
